Drax240z

Dude, be happy with those numbers, learn the car, and when you are ready to, turn up the wick. 450rwhp and 500ft-lbs PEAK doesn't mean anything, so don't get discouraged by that! I've dyno'd cars that make 90% peak power over less than 5% of their rev range, and while they can say they've made XXX horsepower at the wheels, I can also show them 5 or 6 other cars with significantly less horsepower that would absolutely slaughter them in any kind of race. Peak horsepower numbers sell cars... and are used for bragging rights on the internet! Power delivery is much, much more important in building a fast car. Post up the graphs if you have them, they tell the tale much more accurately. I suspect with your setup you are going to have gobs of torque everywhere, and a nice fat power curve. That's what I'd be happy about.

Just a combination of "bumpsteer" spacers and trial and error to find a suitable position. It was very tight indeed. Here's a pic of the install...

The one we did up here we used a an entire 240z crossmember, rack and struts. New slotted strut tops were welded on. Custom steering shaft needed to be made from the upper portion of the 510 shaft, and the lower portion of the 240z shaft. TC rods we ran forward instead of backwards, also did a 300zx brake conversion at the same time. The only caveat really was that the front track increased in width by a couple of inches.

Why do I need to "be at your Z?"

http://www.overseas-auto.com is another option

If anyone has ordered pistons (L-series) from ross before and has a copy of their spec sheet, would you be able to email it to me or post it up please? I'd like to compare specs if possible.

I don't need seats, but the NSX seats are really nice & supportive and are probably narrow enough to fit a Z... they'd be great for someone!

I'd do it in a second.

I'm with you Jon, mechanical oil pressure gauge is the only answer!

Almost sounds like you have a concussion norm! Take any blows to the head lately? (trannies, pistons, hammers, etc?)

Sorry, that's not the way things work here. This is not a democracy, and there is not free speech. The people that pay for and run this site get to dictate how it operates on a day to day basis. For the most part, 5000+ people have been fine with this. In my experience there are very few people that think our rules are over the top, or that we are heavy handed. My recommendation is that you keep anything that isn't car related to yourself, and just post questions regarding your specific build.

Biggest difference I see is the road design actually. US merge lanes are typically VERY short, and freeway speeds are higher. Here you have tons of space and slow speeds, so you really can get to highway speeds from a dead stop in no time. It's called Canadian drag racing, and it's completely legal! I've been to most places in north america, and nowhere is even close to france, germany and japan for driving insanity. (except perhaps Richmond, BC) It's completely a different world. Even Quebec seems tame in comparison.

I'm pretty appalled by the double standard here. I thought our members had more class than that. Good move closing this one Stony.

Wel my weight estimation was only going off of what they felt like in my hands, not very scientific!

I think your weight is a bit low, but yes I have experience with them and would buy them. A good forged rim for relatively cheap.

First off, reading about driving techniques is a great way to improve off season. To start with the basics of suspension, I'd take a look for "How to make your car handle" by Fred Puhn. All your questions and more will be answered there. There are lots more technical reads out there but I found it was a good intro book. Next step would be to go with the Carroll Smith series (tune to win, drive to win, etc). Next step after that is probably Milliken "Race car vehicle dynamics".

Pssst. John. Those are nuts. N-U-T-S.

My 2 cents here... Tim is absolutely correct in saying if you move any of the mounting points at all you are asking for a world of hurt. There aren't many people here that have the tools available to analyse a multilink suspension to the point that they can be sure the movement isn't hurting the suspension. On the 240sx vs 240z rear suspension issue, having driven a lot of both, I find the 240sx a great deal better in street driving. (yet to drive a 240sx on the track) Better traction, larger sweet spots and the ability to get power down being big advantages. A well designed multi-link setup will hold toe and camber much more consistant through the normal driving ranges than the 240z/chapman strut setup will. 240z's (even in like-new condition) have enough toe change under accelertation on the dyno for it to be visible. Also a well designed multi-link is going to have a more consistant camber curve in most cases. (ie: -ve camber gain is more linear) Just my 2 cents.

A couple of guys on this site have done it, I believe Maichor is the name of the member that documented the whole thing... lots of pictures, etc.

Grand Prix Legends is the best sim for my money, with Richard Burns Rally a close second, though it wasn't sold in North America I believe. Both are very intense, I don't think you can compare any console game to them as far as simulation goes.

For my money I'd be looking at the Yokohama Advan Neova or the Goodyear Eagle F1 GS-D3 if it was primarily a street car.

We use concrete walls instead of cones at our autocrosses... the joy of absolutely no one willing to loan a parking lot out for such affairs... to the oval it is. (where we set up a twisty course) Just a bit unnerving getting sideways next to a 4' tall concrete wall.

Heh, I managed to see it the second time around. It's really funny because I went with the whole datsun club here and my car was the only one that wasn't even close to a show car. Something about the satin black and mean stance inspired them I guess.

I just got a phone call that my black Z was on speed channel during the "Summer Dreamin" episode of "My Classic Car" today... check it out, I think it's on again at 11pm pacific. Look for satin black with black mesh enkei 92's.

A smoking deal guys, MSA is $100 more than this. Pete's product is top notch!