Drax240z

I don't think you can actually "fix" anything with a zip tie... can you? Sounds like a possibility though.

I had issues I wanted to sort out before turning up the wick, so I sorted. Traction was allready an issue in autocross and I didn't think more power was going to make me much faster around the track. Now that I've added a quaife I might actually be able to put some more power to the ground. As for whether I got a good deal on it... well I get a good deal on everything in reality. The perks of owning a performance shop: you don't pay retail for anything! I will post up some info on the e_boost2 once I get a chance to play with it a bit. And Mike, I'm glad I am not the only one getting those numbers on low boost. I've had my numbers questioned so many times! Now at least there are 2 of us in that ballpark.

Yes. Well "stock 7 psi" being wastegate only, spiking to ~8psi and dropping to 4.5psi at redline I made 211rwhp and 251ft-lbs of torque. With a boost controller holding closer to 6psi to redline I made 232rwhp and 281ft-lbs. Mods: 60mmtb N42head ~8.3:1 CR 440cc/min injectors SDS EFI Medium NPR I/C 3" mandrel bent exhaust 2.5" mandrel bent DP Port matched intake Finally have a decent boost controller coming in, (Turbosmart e_boost2) since my MBC blew up... I should be able to actually hold 6-7psi through the entire rev range with that setup... I'll try to post a comprehensive comparison between boost levels once I get that going and get my car on the dyno.

Hmm, I've always done it by eye and hand. I might have to get some of these and give them a try though!

Look for vacuum leaks at all? Sounds like one. Your TPS might be out of adjustment as well...

Cool, how did you do the little neck down for the BOV? Or was it a preformed piece you robbed off something else? Great location for the BOV though. I assume that it is directly opposite the TB once installed. Good idea!

Finally a place to showcase all your custom projects that really don't fall into any other category. This forum is intended to share information amongst those that are making custom parts for their cars, as well as those with general welding/fabrication questions. So let's see pics of your projects, whether it's downpipes, differentials, control arms, or fence gates!

I've researched this a fair bit, and have found very little information to support the theory. I think you'll find that there is no measureable difference between aiming the injectors at the back of the valve and the TB on a L series engine. I suspect that on an engine with significantly higher air velocity inthe intake manifold, you may see marginally better atomization by aiming upstream, therefore giving slightly more time for fuel to distribute amongst the air fuel mixture. I'd love to see some evidance to support either method. However, given the choice on a street car I'd choose whichever offered the better packaging solution.

I've autocrossed against Dave a few times. Neat car, very unique. Looks like fun. He's got some more neat stuff in the works for it too from what I hear.

The goal here is keep the site fast, and to keep the threads looking relatively uncluttered. This after all is an informational web forum, not a photo gallery. I'm running 1600x1200 Sparky on a 19" and still had a problem with how big your sig used to be! Once you look through a thread that somone has posted in 6 times it gets a little annoying....

Also it would be nice if the file size for a signature was kept under 30kb. If you are significantly over that you will be prosecuted and violated.

The best in the world in my opinion... I'd certainly buy one again!

Origional post here: http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1537916 Honda-tech's fabrication forum is actually a pretty informative spot, with lots of guys with good skills. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v178/sixtylbsofboost/Zheader2006.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v178/sixtylbsofboost/Zheader2009.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v178/sixtylbsofboost/Zheader2013.jpg

Actually we run a +17% on all our numbers now right out of the machine. Sadly our explainations as to why dynojets read too high were falling on deaf ears among a large portion of our customers, who do most of their racing by comparing numbers over the internet. Normally I wouldn't concede to doing something like this, and it was not an easy decision for me, but business is what it is, and having an expensive machine to pay for left us little other option but to maximize our customer base. The 195rwhp was with the stock downpipe and my car in a crappy state of tune (relatively), with fairly old gas, etc. 232rwhp in my sig was also at 6psi, but in a much better state of tune... though it was a bit peaky for my tastes. Shortly after that I tuned it for better power delivery, and lost some peak power. All these numbers are with +17% from the RAW Dyno Dynamics numbers. That's all we deal with now, due to the reasons above.

The dyno compensates for ambient temperature changes, barometric pressure changes, and changes in humidity. First run shown was done at 46.5F, 52% humidity, 29.90inHg. Second run shown was done at 45.7F, 51% humidity, 29.87inHg. These were done back to back within less than 1 hour of each other. Same car, same tune, same building, same tires, same tire pressure, same dyno. As for the consistancy of this machine, I can do 10 runs back to back with my car and cover every graph with ~2hp variance tops. Anything greater than a 5hp deviation in my experience is well outside the realm of experimental error, and denotes a change. 15 in this case is crystal clear. I've been doing laboratory experiments for the past 6 years both as part of my full-time job and education. I'm pretty well versed on how to conduct a sucessful experiment. This machine costs over 3 times as much as a base dynojet and uses very high quality instrumentation as you would expect with the extra price tag. Hopefully that stems any potential doubts as to the validity of the provided information.

Thanks for the opportunity Pete, sorry about all the delays in getting this to you. Here is a shot of the dyno graph for you, I can host it no problem. Just to reiterate, very surprised with the gains at 6psi. The gains will grow as boost increases as well, hopefully I can test those results too in the near future. Here is a quick shot of the pieces used for comparison.

Undo the ~6 bolts that have their heads near the center section, and going into the exhaust housing... Once you loosen those the housing should spin freely. Remove them entirely and the exhaust housing just pulls off. No worries about anything going out of alignment at all, just reinstall after... Intake housing is exactly the same if you wanted to do that. 3 of the 6 bolts to do that are clearly visible in the last picture you posted. Also, given the designed operating temperatures of the piece, I wouldn't worry much about heat distortion from welding.

My question to centerline is: How hard is it to design a wheel that looks decent? They have a couple that are OK, but so many are butt ugly!

Do you have a weight on those wheels? I like! Actually while I am asking, what kind of price range are we looking at? I think those with a painted center might be pretty damn nice.

Rota makes some for the Z, called Grid. Aux posted up a link and pictures of them a while ago. They are light, cheap and look like TE37's... what more can you ask for?

Dude, if you want to chat about the car, swing by my shop in Vic. http://www.zensport.ca and there is a map on the site too. I can answer most of your questions in person, and would be interested in seeing your car! Is that photo taken at Clover Point? Looks like it!

Rock on Tim... looks fantastic!

Yeah would be a neat swap, those little S2000's have great steering feel. Fun car to drive!

I'd recommend some 280zx struts/brakes up front. Very inexpensive mod, and a great brake package for the 510. (bigger rotors, and vented... and a true bolt on!)