Drax240z

You don't need a TIG to weld aluminum. Just get a spool gun for your MIG and fly at it. All high volume manufacturing/aluminum welding is done with MIG with very reasonable results. It isn't quite as pretty mind you, but definately functional.

Hey man, there is a 2nd gen RX7 in victoria with a 350 installed. Its a charcoal grey colour. You can see him out at western speedway occasionaly at the sunday autocrosses as well as in shows around town. Sounds like a fun swap! (oh, and there are solid Z cars around victoria... I just sold one in Duncan 25 minutes ago. )

Or swap the guts from a 280z tach into the 240z case. Bridge the large (30 Ohm) resistor on the signal line, calibrate the tach, and you are set.

Well, first off I am not trying to rain on your parade turbobluestreak. But I can tell you why I, personally am not jumping up and down over this thread. A) I have no idea what your background is, and what you know about heads, head design, or heck even producing a solid model, machine code or a feasible tool path. I would think a billet head is going to be REALLY pricy. C) Having to use JDM manifolds doesn't excite me too much. D) From what you are showing so far, there isn't much to see yet. Now, please don't let any of this detract from yoru enthusiasm. I think its awesome that you are undertaking this project, and likely I'm just being a cynic as usual. Keep working and keep us posted... As things move along I am sure the interest will grow accordingly.

NICE. I hope to see the new beast on Monday!

http://www.burnsstainless.com is where I got tubing to make headers in the past... however they are a bit pricy there, and from what I've heard there are cheaper places to buy the more generic mandrel bends. Likely once you start looking for more exotic materials (Ti, inconel, 321) your options are really limited.

Every tire is a little bit different how it will respond to pressure changes. My suggestion is to find a place where you can do a figure 8 safely, and get a pyrometer. Start at maximum pressure and do some figure 8's, record tire temperatures, and lower them until you get a fairly uniform distribution across 3 points on the tread width. You might find that you have a hotter inside edge, or outside edge, the results of too much or too little negative camber. This can't be corrected by tire pressure changes, however you can make sure you don't have a hot or cold spot in the middle of your tire with this method.

Right on buddy, welcome to the land of the turbo 240z. Need more boost............

I used 10ga wire as well, and echo SleeperZ comments at going no lighter than 12ga.

I hope you didn't have a passenger with you...

Hmm, I saw a set of prybars that said "Do not use as a prybar" on each one. I wonder what happens if I injure myself using them as a prybar?

Hey it isn't Sue, but yeah, she has one too! I forgot about her because I hardly ever see her anymore. (She just got married) I might be a Z fanatic, but you tattoo'd ones are beyond me!

Heh, thats funny Dan. I "invented" this setup in about 1992 as it just came to me one day. A couple years later I saw my "invention" in a magazine and learned that they have been around since the 60's. I still think the theory is very sound, and there is a big performance gain available from such a setup. Whether the Coates system is as good as it sounds, I don't know. I would expect sealing to be a major issue around a spherical valve... however, there are lots of industrial ball valves that can seal around a sphere. Heat + Pressure + a good seal might be tough however. Still, a very intriguing concept to me.

Friend of mine here has a copy of the hood emblem from a 300zx tattoo'd on her shoulder/back. That makes 4!

Where were all you Vancouver guys at the datsun show/autocross last weekend? We had a few V8Z's out there, but no Ford powered ones. Every year, mid September there is an autocross at Boundary Bay airport on the Saturday, and then a show on Sunday. (this year it was at waterfront park in North Van, but they may be putting in condo's there so we aren't sure where it will be next year) If you saw a red Z on Saturday near ladner/highway 10, chances are it was heading to boundary bay airport for the autocross. (there were 83 datsuns entered in the autoX, and over 200 cars at the show) Hopefully we'll see you next year!

The twin kawasaki 1100 car was called the tiger. It did 0-60mph in 2.97 seconds. (AWD mind you) The driver for this record attempt said he just concentrated on a point on the horizon, looking forwards the entire time while driving backwards. He could tell by his position on the runway if he needed to correct. Very difficult to drive were his words. The hardest part was stopping though, he basically had to swap ends 180 degrees after slowing down a bit otherwise he was cooking the rear brakes. (which typically do about 20% of the stopping on a car) The day was cut short after some gross displays of horsepower with a broken chain.

102 mph is pretty damn fast for any car, let alone an open cockpit lotus super 7... powered by a hayabusa 1300cc motorbike engine. 185hp/105ft-lbs in a car that weighs 1076lbs wet. Oh, 102 mph isn't that fast you say? Well... how about in reverse? A local company http://www.super7cars.com was putting on a show at a local airport, complete with police, press, etc. in an attempt to set some records. And set them they did. This is now the fastest production car for sale in Canada, and damn respectable elsewhere as well! Records today: In completely stock trim, road tires, spare tire, etc. right down to the insurance papers in the glove box: 0-60mph: 3.87sec 1/4 mile: 12.4@108mph 100mph-0mph: 29.6m or 100ft. Unbelievable. (and I didn't believe it watching it, so I know you aren't going to believe me reading it) With 10" hoosier racing rubber on the back, windshield removed, spare tire removed: 0-60mph: 3.28sec 1/4 mile: 12.08@106mph Top speed in reverse: 102.4mph The car uses an additional set of gears for reverse, because of course the hyabusa doesn't have reverse. Using this gives the car 6 speeds in reverse, hence the high speeds attainable. It was driven by the engineer/owner of the company and crewed by his son. And if you want a 7 replica with lots of show and go, its only $43,000 canadian which is about $30,000US. It is also a bit larger than the origional 7, designed for people up to 6'5" and 250lbs. A fun day at the airstrip!

As discussed on another thread, there is a method to getting the 280z tach to work with the MSD box, and I would presume that this may be causing some other issues as well. In order to get the 280z tach to work, you have to bridge one of the resistors. If you disassemble the tach and follow the wire from the signal terminal, you will see the signal goes first through a physically large 30Ohm resistor, and then through a much smaller (physically) resistor. If you bridge the 30Ohm resistor on the backside of the board (don't pull it out, just run a wire across the terminals and solder it on) the tach will function as most tachs today do. Those of you trying the 280z tach without this mod, I am sorry if I misled you in my earlier posts in this thread. Oh and if you are putting it in a 240z, you need to use the 240z housing with the 280z guts.

How is the spoolup on the turbo you are running? I'm willing to sacrifice top end for a quick spoolup and a bit more low end. The stage 5 has 1 less blade, and would spoolup a bit slower I would assume...?

Hey Doug, any updates or comparisons to offer on this swap? I was just looking at the exact same turbo and am interested to hear your thoughts.

Hey Scott, did this start happening just after your donut exhibition on Saturday? I'd check all your IC piping hoses for leaks as a start, if it is leaking at high pressure only it would make sense. I hope its something minor! Good meeting you Saturday. Richard Lewis

I would say for ease of programming it is one of the best out there. I have used a few systems, and I actually don't miss the data logging option as much as I thought I would. Setup is pretty straight forwards as well. Custom harness is very well done with no snags at all. I'd definately use this system again.

Thanks a lot bud, I'm going to give that a try really soon.

Hey Jersey, you got the stock 280z tach to work with the MSD box? I'm having issues with mine. Can you be more specific about what you did and how you hooked it up? I've borrowed an autometer tach for the time being, but can't get the 280z tachs I have working... AFAIK, the red/black wire out of the back of the 280z tach is the signal, the black ground, and the green is power. I've been hooking the red/black signal wire to the blue wire on my MSD box (which works fine for the autometer, but not the 280z). The tach output port on the box requires a plug of some sort in order to use it I assume? Any insight?

THey are great seats, a buddy of mine has them in his 510.