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Clifton

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Everything posted by Clifton

  1. Warped rotor? Check it with a dial indicator.
  2. If you are looking for an upgrade I would get rid of those stock Nissan made for Joe blow pads and get some real pads. I'm sure John C could recomend something good. Running more pad (Toy) and the stock solid rotor isn't reslly much of an upgrade. The Toy calipers aren't going to do much either if you ran them with cheapo pads too. I have run the Toy calipers. The pedal felt fine, not soft. Even with my, at the time cracking rubber lines. Maybe you have some air in there.
  3. One of the link is dead. It said with accesseries. Here's 2 other ones. http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=11269&page=5 http://www.automotivehelper.com/topic52633.htm
  4. I should have said in my post. Running a 6 puck with a stock PP will increase the torque holding capabilty alot without adding a stiff pedal. But as Bastaad said. If you are just running a stock T3 I wouldn't go they route if you don't need to.
  5. He's talking about a Z32. I don't know why you would even consider a 7M for that. As far as 27 more hp. Big deal. It was intercooled with a higher CR. Mod for mod they would both make the same. The VG has a shorter stroke that I would prefer. A VH45 or VK45 with turbo would be the only Nissan motor I would swap into a Z32. No point is swapping if you aren't gaining displacemant on a heavy car.
  6. I want to powder coat the door trim but I have heard it's hard to get the squeegee back on and lookking good. Datsun Restore sells it with clips but I wanted some first hand stories. Option 2, I could just get new trim with the squeegee installed and paint the stainless black or use black out tape.
  7. The storage area on the 70-71 is non existant. I think the 72-73 is alot better as you can put stuff in it and even get a lid for it. The shifter whole is also smaller. I put tape over my slots on the outside and fill them with epoxy from the back. Let it set up, removed the tape and painted the 2 strips black.
  8. Anyone know where to get the wiper motor grommet that goes through the firewall? I also need a speedo grommet. MSA and VB don't carry them.
  9. I'll agree on the 6 puck being harder to use in traffic. I run one and don't like it but don't really have a choice. Engaugemant is very quick. If you can get by with a street disk I would do it.
  10. I would do atleast 1/16 toe in the front on a street car if you don't want it following every crack and paint stripe in the road.
  11. That's really rich plus the plug gap. I'm suprised it doesn't miss more than a little even with an MSD. The spark will go were there is least resistance. If that is ground somewere else it will do it. The power you are loosing running by running so rich. You are on the verge of misfire there too. You could drop the boost 2 psi and run 11.8 and make as much or more power and be. I have run resistor plugs (NGK) with an MSD 6a for over 10 years with no problems.
  12. If you originally wanted the V8 I would still do it. Just turbo that. A low boost v8 would have a larger power band and be more enjoyable to drive than a high boost L. I ran a high boost (24 psi) DD. Just don't let it knock. Detonation at high boost is alot worse than at 8 psi. I would also throw every part of the stock T3 in the trash and run a full T4. It will make getting close to 400 rwhp on pump gas pretty easy.
  13. http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
  14. I went from a small Supra intercooler with 2" plumbing to a 4" thick x 12"x 24" core with 2.5 and 2.75" plumbing. There was no difference in lag. It doesn't take much to pressurize the extra volume. 10 rotations of an engine will use more air than the added intercooler capacity. At 3500 rpm 10 rotations would not be noticable to anyone. I guess a small intercooler can be efficient when used on a small engine with low airflow requirements, like a low boost 1.5l motor.
  15. A radiator half the size as stock would work too as long as you didn't boost for to long. The bigger the intercooler the better. It doen't matter if you are going to push 10 psi or 20 psi through it. This is style is more efficient and will would fit nicely. Price is about the same. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/UNIVERSAL-INTERCOOLER-TURBO-FMIC-FRONT-MOUNT-BAR-PLATE_W0QQitemZ7992814901QQcategoryZ33742QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
  16. Don't know how much torque the Z33 trans will take. I know Z32 5spd's can take quite a bit.. That's what I will be using. The Z32 flywheel will supposedly bolt up to the VH45 crank. 2 T66's. How much power you looking to make, 1300 hp?
  17. .015" is alot. If the stub is out even .004" it would throw the outer edge of the rotor off 4 times that. Apparently bent, or run out in stub axles are fairly common. I know Dave at AZC turns every stub before reassembling his strut assemblies. I didn't do mine and I do have a little run out on the rear. I didn't check if it was the rotor on stub, it wasn't too bad.
  18. I'd use the stock ecu. Factory ecu's are pretty easy to wire into other cars with a diagram. Q45's came with a small service manual, It has the wiring in it. Should be easy to find one cheap on ebay.
  19. Suspension 250f/280r CO's, Koni's, f/r sway bars Brakes f/r Wilwoods Body stock I'm running about 3/16" total toe in on the front. It's pretty stable. If I was solo I would have pushed more. My passenger didn't want any part of it though.
  20. After doing the 7m swap I can tell you the motor mounts will be the easy part.
  21. 154 mph (GPS verified) coming back from MSA with our group. Wasn't trying for top speed, just messing around. There was plenty left in it.
  22. Why the mixed tires? es100's aren't too soft. Maybe the BFG's have a softer compound, I'd try swapping them F to R.
  23. Z32tt's use 2. I use none. For as small as stock turbos are one should easily be able to handle enough volume to keep it from surging if it even does on a shift.
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