Clifton

Why not just replce the old intank pump with a Walbro? It would be cheaper as inline pumps are about $40 more than intank pumps. Baastad has used them he might be able to help. I like additonal injectors. You can run alot more boost (up to 30 psi). You will be limtited to about 10 psi when running an RRFPR and don't have as much tune ability.

Changing the vin would be easier. Door, fender, and dash. There is a stamped one on the firewall. It can easily be ground off. I did it on a Z in the past after not getting a title after 6 months and already putting too much time and money into the car to risk filling for an abandoned vehicle title and not getting it and loosing the car. Just buy a cheap parts car for the vin and then you'll have spares. As long as you didn't steal it who cares, gotta do what you gotta do to drive your car. I won't tell.

I have always installed new MHG's dry. That's whats recomended. The viton coating seals the small imperfections. 55lbs is pretty low. I've torqued stock L28 head bolts to 70 ft lbs with oil. According to ARP if using oil you will need to increase the torque comparred to using their moly lube. For my my studs (7M) it was 80 ft/lbs with moly and I think 110 or 130 ft lbs if using oil.

I would run DSM injectors. Same size and have the same clip as Nissan ones. You can also run them as O ring or trim the plastic and use a hose. It would save you from having to get an FPR and JSK fuel rail. I'd go bigger on the whole turbo but that's me. Don't use the standard turbine wheel if you want to meet your goals, stg3 min. 300 rwhp is cake at 15 psi with the right turbo. Use the 255 pump, it will easily do 500 rwhp. Some day you may want to crank it up with a little race gas. 30 psi boost gauge for when you do crank it up. Get a 4" thick intercooler if you are going with the cross flow 12x24 core. And most importantly a wideband O2 meter. LM1, PLX, ect.

This may help some. It will atleast give you an idea of the power capability of a turbo and the spool time for a 3.0. The dynos are all of 3.0 inline 6's so expect the spool to be about the same, especially if you have a 3.1. None are T3/4. The SP57 does use a stage V wheel but in a T4 housing. Turbo specs http://moreboost.org/turbos.htm Dynos of different turbos with boost http://moreboost.org/turbo_detail.htm

Looks good. Can't wait to hear how it runs once you get it tuned.

I don't know if you are dead set on 134 but R12 is only about $4 more a can. You'll only need 3 cans. Z's don't have the best air to begin with and loosing soem efficiency won't help the vent temps.

Stock turbo block, yes. Big turbo, atleast a 60-1 full T4 and alot of boost.

It's not surprising. They (our great Gov't) aren't here for the people but to do what they want to fill their pockets and will amend the constition to do want they want if it's not legal. Gun bans, tax income, taking your property, ect. What next?

Look into AEM. It can do just about anything, datalog, ect. Microtech and Haltec also.

Yes. However if you use the standard T3 turbine wheel it will seriously mismatched compared to the flow capability of the compresor. Unless you are talking about using just your exhasut housing. In that case it would need to be machined to fit whatever turbine wheel that is in the T4, O or P trim. Thsis would be better. Check with Presicion Turbo.

Yes it will replace the standard wheel in the stock turbo. If you buy a complete turbo it will coem with teh proper houising or you can have the stock one machined to fit the larger wheel. I would only gop bigger if you go with a larger compressor side and plan on running a little more boost.

I've seen kits on ebay. Should be less than $100. I get parts locally. Look in the yellow pages under turbo. If your town is big enough there should be atleast one shop. If not I have got stuff from these guys. http://turbosdirect.com/ If you want more power and are plan on running more boost then I would get something bigger with atleast a stage 3 turbine wheel.

You aren't taking it apart. Just taking the compressor housing housing off. You are going to have to loosen the bolts to clock it anyways. There is nothing that will go wrong. I promise . I wouldn't expect full boost (15-18psi) till atleast 5k.

It is the housing. You can get a smaller one for a little over $200. I would pull the compressor cover and measure the inducer and exducer and see what you have. If it's an S trim, I would sell it. I've seen alot of those on Ebay. if it's atleast a V trim and you didn't pay much it might be worth buying another housing. I don't know what you paid but you can get a decent standard shaft turbo for $600-700 new so I wouldn't put more in it than that. With a P trim if it's a street car and you don't like lag I would get a .58. I wouldn't go bigger than a .68.

If your pads are smooth and don't have a divet then they are fine.

It's in the rear of the crankshaft. Are you just installing or removing and installing? They are pretty easy to put in.

Thanks

Are there any sites that you can search through and look at factory car colors that also have the color code? I'm down to 2 colors (I think) and unless I can find the 2 cars right next to each other I will never be sure. I have found various pics on the internet but if the lighting is a little different when taken it makes the paint darker or lighter.

I've done it. I used regular engine paint. It's good to 500*, plenty for calipers.

If it was backfiring thorugh the carbs it was for sure too lean. Are you lifting the chamber in one carb to adjust the fuel on the other or blocking it off with your hand? You need to lift the chamber, blocking it off will just create a pressure drop and pull in more fuel. With one carb dissabled you should have the other one adjusted to where it will just about stall, then turn it down about 1/4 turn, adding fuel. If you are too lean/ verge of stalling it will increase emissions and most likely fail. I set a pair of carbs that a shop couldn't get to pass. Make sure your timing is good and your mechanical is advancing too.

Mechanically the stroke/piston speed is the main limting factor on RPMs. Making power there is up to you. An LD28 stroke would give you just over 4133 fpm at 7500 rpm. Stock L28 at 7500 is under 4000 fpm. I run up to 7500 with a 79mm storke on an unbalanced motor with cast pistons. You should either run an aftermarket damper or new stock one.

You'll need to run a 280ZX master(larger bore) so most people get rebuilt ones. I run the AZC 5 lug kit. Better wheel options.

Any 1.8L motor in a Z would be a step backwards. SR20's are small enough. Your torque would be way down even on boost even if it could make the same HP.

You can easily run 30-35 psi on VP. How much boost were you planning on running?