Clifton

Don't know the brand of stripper you are using but try Mar-Hyde Tal-Strip II Aircraft Coating Remover Spray. Jolane did a test on a bunch and this was good. I have used it many times when I painted my car and I found it's better than the gel. On the battery tray area. I sand blasted mine with a harbor freight pressure blaster. I had alot of rust on and under mine. I then used Rust Mort on anything that looked even a little rusty.

Are R230's different than R200's when seting up gears? On R200's you shim the race. You don't need to pull the carrier bearing off. Pinion bearings do need to be pulled but a cheap HF bearing puller and press get those off.

That could have been real bad. What gear did you have it in. I have never had my car roll in gear and that's all I use unless cooling the a/c before I get in in the summer then I'll use the linelock.

You should move your Walbro back to where the stock pump was or use you stock pump as a feeder pump. They are better at pushing fuel than pulling. It may limit your volume pulling fuel that far.

I turboed my Toyota truck (V6). The pump on that had a shut off pressure of 50 psi. The volume was also lacking. As the revs went up under boost the pressure would drop, was running 12 psi at the time. I put a Walbro 155 l pump in . You're only at 5 psi though so I doubt that's your problem, you should check the pressure under load though. What are you using to control fuel under boost? Z32 turbo ecu?I run an aic with 2 extra injectors. Once I had the pressure switch loose a signal and I could not run over 2 psi without it falling on it's face.

OK. I measured the pressure, pre intercooler(Ebay 12x24x4 thick). 30 psi. So I have a 4 psi pressure drop at around the 600 hp level. Seems high but without knowing what everyone else has it's hard to compare. Regardless, the P trim is running 5 psi higher than my compressor discharge. The O trim is 15 psi higher. I was checking only to see how my setup compares to others. It makes more power than I probably should have on the streets so power isn't an issue. I would love to know what the turbine pressure is on one of those GT35's. They spool pretty fast. I'll check the exhaust BP after the turbo next.

You can detonate on any octane of fuel. It will just take a little more boost and or timing but you are never safe. Is he running standalone? Is he controlling the VVT? Could be coming on too late. That kind of torque I would think he is running atleast 18- 20 psi. 30* is alot of timing.

A P trim wheel is pretty big. I don't think it is possible though. Come on, one of you guys tap an 1/8" thread into your manifold and run some copper line to a gauge. It's fun to test:mrgreen:

JDM 7M's will have the same HG problems as US motors. Regardless of what some say the mileage is not as low as they would like you to believe. If you are wanting to swap into a Z yoou would be better off buying a wrecked MKIII. You can get a whole car for less that you'll spend on just the motor. IAAI.com I've bought quite a few fars from them, cheap.

I've seen 3 different P trims too. I have the on that looks almost clipped but wasn't. T netics looks almost like a GT wheel and the other looks like mine just a little more blade on it ( not the clipped look). I don't know if any other P trim will spool any faster though. I've seen alot of dynos of 3.0 motors (7M and 2JZ) with P trim/.68's and none spooled any faster, basing that of how fast the motor reaches 400 ft lbs. I will keep the P trim turbo (T72) for the VH45 unless I find a .58 P trim housing to try for cheap.

Ya. I'm talking about the turbine side. I've also heard 2.0 and 1.8:1. I haven't measured my pressure before the intercooler which I need to to do be accurate. At 26 psi manifold I was had 35 psi with a P trim wheel and 45 psi with an O trim wheel. Both are with a .70 hot side a/r. The P trim adds about 700 rpms of lag. I am running the O trim for now. It's too much fun having a broad power band. It almost feels like a supercharged V8 the way it comes on now, atleast when comparred to the P trim.

That's a alot of power and a nice power band, all the way up to 7500 ish. What was your afr?

Has anyone measured there turbine inlet pressure and at what psi was your manifold or pre intercooler pressure?

Here's some Mitsu maps. http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/turbotech.html#mitsu

I've used regular steel with out a problem until I found a peice of stainless. I wanted to polish it or I would of left the mild steel.

If you have a decent boost gauge the needle will fluctuate when you hear the fluttering if it is surge. This would happen at part throttle with boost. If its WOT and the revs are up you are not having surge especially if it is a small turbo like you say. Have you posted this on a SRT board? I'm sure it is common enough that they would know.

Make sure you do have 72' doors also. 73's got a heavier side impact brace and weigh about 10 lbs more than the earlier 240 doors.

If it's a 260 2+2 it's an R200 3.36. I have a 3.70 but not LSD.

Borlas are nice but expensive. Dynomax makes nice straight through glass pack type mufflers in stainless. I think Magnaflow makes then in aluminized steel. Stay away from Flowmaster (flowdisaster) unless you want noise with out perfomance. I have yet to see a test were they out performed (backpressure) any straight through muffler and they are loud.

That's what I did and alot of other people do with external gates. They already have the extra port on top. You will still run into boost dropping if trying to run substantially more boost than the spring is set for. Thumper, read post 7 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=104816

You need to add a spring to you wastegate to increase tension. As the back pressure increases as revs go up it forces it open. Same with external gates. It doesn't matter were you get the signal from, if the spring isn't stiff enough it will open at higher boost / rpms. I went from an 8 psi WG spring that would only hold 22 psi and it still dropped a little to an 18 psi WG spring that has held 28 psi so far.