Clifton

I would lean it out to around 11.7-11.8. It's still plenty safe and you will pick up quite a bit of power running that kind of boost.

I did run a V trim compresor. At 22 psi I did 417rwhp. If your afr is in the high 11's/ real low 12's with timing in the low 20*'s. As long as you're not running a Conquest intercooler, I don't see why you wouldn't do atleast that if not more. Do you have the injectors and octane for 23 psi?

Look at the T3 map and see where 35 lbs/min is. It is off the right of the map. The turbo could do it but it is not design to run there. The efficiency will be way down as reliablilty. The turbo needs to be matched to the power output.

I don't know how much boost you want to run but stock I had about 10 psi with the same turbo. I tightened up the rod on the WG and ended up with 17 psi.

A large wheel cannot handle the speeds a smaller wheel can and doesn't run at the same speeds. Kinda like diesel motors. If you compare a T3 60 trim (stock 280ZX turbo) and a T4 with a 62-1 compressor wheel. They will both make 300 hp. The T3 wheel is about at the end of the map and the efficiency is lower, making more heat, requiring more boost to make the same power. The T3 turbine wheel is also alot smaller than a T4 wheel or upgraded T3 wheel. While it will spool faster it will not flow nearly as much or have the torque to turn a large compressor wheel. If run with a large compressor wheel it will have more backpressure to make the same boost. You have to compare both the compressor and turbine side. Yes some on this board run T3/4's with stock turbine wheels. They also don't make the power they could be making. Hopefully these come up. 16 psi intercooled is about a 2.2 PR. Close to the safe limit on pump gas. It is enough to make 350 rwhp/400hp+ crank (yes not everyone makes that but again most use a T3 turbine wheel). 10lbs/min is about 10 hp. You can see the T3 compressor is way off the map. It is living on barrowed time. The other 2 are still good. If you wanted to run more octane and 23 psi the T4 E60 would be to small too. The 62-1 would work though.

I have looked into Microtech. A few guys on here run it. I know it can use stock sensors. AEM is also nice. and has alot of features. Most MKIV run that.

As Pyro said. You will need to stop the mechanical advance or you will for sure have knock. I wired up the weights on one along time ago. Worked fine. You couls also use an MSD universal boost retard. They are around $170. I run one on my truck. Works better than locking out the mech advance but isn't free like a foot of wire.

Actually that's the adapter I made for s/cL3.0 on this board. He hasn't got it running yet. He just ordered SDS.

Yes the bigger turbo would have more lag and take longer to build boost. The smaller turbo would require more boost to make 350hp than the larger turbo. If the boost were equal the larger turbo would make more power.

Are the stock rods that weak? I know VQ35 rods seem to give up over the 500 rwhp range. Using forged parts is great but most turbo engine failures are from detonation (Pistons breaking and head gaskets blowing). You can run 8 psi and 35* timing and break your forged piston from knock, were a cast piston will live at 20 psi and 20* timing without knock. Boost isn't the limiter, knock is.

8.4:1 CR and 12 psi is totally safe regardless of piston type, unless you aren't pulling timing under boost.

I did 22 psi on a stock junkyard block. Not stock turbo. Would of done moe if I was looking for big numbers. Boost isn't the limiting factor, detonation is. Bppst can lead to det just as too much timing can though. You can run C16 and 30 psi with stock pistons and it would be safer than 20 psi on 91 octane.

IMO manual boost controllers with internal WG's just doesn't work good unless you are adding only a few psi. I have always used a stiff helper spring. Attach it to a threaded rod and make it adjustable and loose the MBC. Your boost will never spike or drop off at higer rpms again. High 12's low 13's is way rich for cruise. FP is low too.

No. They are Spa mirrors though. .

Yes, 25mm/1 inch. You could go 30-32mm/1.250" in the front. I eneded up lenthgening my LCA's 10mm and I still don't rub. There is less clearance in the rear. I wouldn't go more than 25mm there. You will need adapters not spacers. They run about $200. That's why I wouldn't do it. You could convert with J/Y parts to 5 lug and run 9's in the rear. Sell your old Toy brakes and not be in the hole too much. AIM has adapters pretty cheap and different thicknesses too.

This is what happens when people type when high . Are you starting an F1 team? Are you Howard Hughes? There are plenty of good motors that make alot of power and are proven. There is no need to waste time and money doing whats been done. Let GM, Nissan, and Toyota do the R&D. AFR has aftermarket heads for the LS6 that will outflow a Northstar head at a fraction of the cost of casting your own aluminum block. to use with there head. As for making a one of complete motor. Even if the block gets made you still have to make heads and hope they flow. What about a crank? What stroke? I shouldn't take posts so seriously.

I don't know how much is too much but one of my fronts is out .004" and the other .025". I need to have them re-trurned as the aren't straight, ones out .005" and will have them cut the O.D on the one that is .025".

I notched the squeege moulding to slide over the mirror arm and then used that to locate the hole I drilled in the door pinch seam. It is double wall there and pretty firm. I had to bend it a little though as the mirrors aren't adujstable in that direction. I used a socke head screw and cut down a hex key so I can adjust them with the panels on if they ever get bumped hard. .

My fronts are 17x8 with a 22mm offset. Daves 5 lug front hubs push the mounting surface out .500" too. The 4 lug kit doesn't. I run the 5 lug. There is no way a 35mm offset will work on a stock hub. Even a 22mm would need to be spaced a little if on a stock Z hub. You would need a 1" spacer to get them to sit were mine do in the fender if using an S30 hub. I would pass on them.

I agree with the softer tires. You will reduce 60-0 stopping distances more from that. Big brakes won't be a benifit on the street stopping at 50-60 mph for a red light. A few hard stops from 120 - 40 mph is different.

275-40-17. Wow, 325's are huge. Are you flared?

Looks like a nice place/compound. Ya, August humdity is brutal with swamp and 110*. A few more in better light

Ya I did that with the 7M swap in August. It was like an oven. I put a 6500 cfm Mastercool on the garage roof. right before I started it. Not a/c but better than nothing. It also gets the fumes out pretty quick when I sprayed.

Even Garrett says it's too small. "2.0-2.7l". It does flow a little more than the stock T3 though. I would get the GT35R.

Yes. 17x8 and 17x9's Sterling gray metalic # 472, BMW 750/760 Thanks for all the compliments guys. .