Tony240ZT

http://www.sdsefi.com/ Not sure if they have pricing on their page.

Do some searching, I know I've posted pictures of some plugs and wire colors before in another thread. Is the search still broken? http://www.zhome.com/~aktar/zcar/73/turbofi/ Is some info I wrote down a while ago while doing the swap into my `73. I didn't use the idle control or egr stuff, so can't help you with that. Also hooked the fuel pump up directly with the ignition, so it's not controled by the computer.

I was a juror on a DUI case in california. The guy wouldn't take the breath test, so they took him in on the spot to do either a blood or urine test. As others have said, not taking the test there on the street doesn't look good. If he was able to walk the line, recite ABC's, and didn't have wondering eyes at the side of his view then maybe theirs a chance that that stuff will help. Also would help if the cop was an ass, but they know ahead of time that what they do will effect the case, and usually stick by the rules.

I've heard of GN guys switching over to supra coil packs, so I'm assuming they work in the same way. All coils get a +12v all the time, then are fired when they get a ground signal. The standalone system will need some sort of crank angle trigger to know what your engine is up to. Then all you need are coil (drivers?)triggers that your standalone system can use to drive the coil pack. The coil pack is 3 coils right? Then you'll do a wasted spark setup where you fire on the oposing cylinder on the exhaust stroke.

Get as much as you can. Replace the timing belt. The stock 7m-gte 5 speed tranny (R154) fits pretty easily. Just have to figure out where to put some mounts for it, and you will need to cut some room for the shifter to come through. It will mount up further. The engine has to be pushed back as far as you can stand it. Lots of guys putting pretty good amounts of horse power down with LSD R200's. I'm putting CV's in the car. I have a set of adapters from Ross, eh. Engine is a bit heavier than the L6, but strangly is smaller in length. Can clearly see the front sway bar infront of the crank pulley. I think you're getting to the age where you can't use it as an excuse anymore, hehe.. I'm only a couple years ahead of you, so if I can do it, you can do it. If you haven't started welding yet now is a good time to start learning. Do consider the fact that an american push rod V8 with a carb setup will get you more horse power per dollar, and will probably be less work (if you go with a tranny that fits nicely). The 7M-GTE is an excellent performer, and has a very great potential. But for some people it's probably easy to drop a couple aluminum heads on a v8, headers, a good sized carb, and off you go. With the toyota engine you'll be playing with turbo sizes, fuel maps, intercooler, fuel injector sizing, electronics, ect.

On the other side of the spectrum I've used them in my L24 turbo setup, ran pretty rich, so I traded ScottyMitz for his 370cc/min injectors. I'm pretty sure he's running in the 12's for the 1/4 mile with his setup. Before he swapped to the larger injectors and larger turbo he ran a high 12, and after the rebuild and parts the car is faster. The AFM has to be tightened down pretty good, not really healthy for the car. Scotty is letting some un-metered air in after the AFM to help. From what I've heard it's working really well. I'm working on something to rid of the restriction. 370cc/min injectors aren't too bad of a comprimise.

http://www.zhome.com/~aktar/zcar/engine/mtb.html Mercedes EFI V8 65mm throttle body, not too hard to bolt on. Little difficult to find though.

Thanks for the pics! What did you use to cut into the inner fenders?

The quick response is: Yes, as long as the wastegate is an internal one. Compressor inlet size is larger, and so is compressor outlet so intake and intercooler piping will need slight mods. A T04B compressor housing usually clears the exhaust manifold, while a t04e will need a spacer to give it some room (grinding into the manifold is optional). If you have the resorces to do an external waste gate, go for it.

LEN if you can talk numbers with me email me and let me know what you know.

You're doing the right thing, just stick to the parts that you need to get the car running. I had fun getting flashy parts and it broke me. So now I have some flashy parts on a car that doesn't move. It'd be more fun to drive than to look at. Little things like shifters, exhaust hangers, fuse blocks, oil cooler lines, AN fittings, T bolt clamps, SS fasteners, relays, paint cans, wires. None of these directly add performance, but can definately add up. If it makes you feel any better, you're not alone. But owning the hybrid Z car of your dreams is priceless.

I hate to have anyone not put in the toyota motor. I need someone I can be buddy buddy with I hope I didn't scare you away after you asked me how much I had invested in my engine swap. Guys, I can sadly say I have more invested in my 7m-gte engine swap than I have invested in my whole `73 240z with a L series, turbo t3/t4, intercooled setup, and L series is running. I'm sure it can be done with less though. Besides, it's only money, right?

Nice, I'd be interested in seeing how the rest of the IC pumbing looks. Think you'll have any problem fitting your air dam on? Are your IC pipes spray painted or powder coated, looks clean!

Here's another view with the owner and his dog. He was trying to sell the car, does anyone know if it sold? Really nice turbo l6 under the hood with an electromotive setup.

My car sits lower now than it did before in the front with new tokico struts/springs. Will it be easy to tell if I need to change out springs to a heavier set by driving the car around? I'd say the car is about 3/4" lower now, with the tokico setup already lower the car a couple inches from stock.

`87-`89 300ZX Turbo has a R200 LSD, but not from the all white SE because it has a visCous, and the input shafts are different. I believe the yoke is different on the LSD's, you swap a 280z/x NA yoke off of a R200. They are a little hard to take off, so buying a new one may be easier (I think they are like $50 new). The rear finned cover won't fit easily, although many have made room for them. A regular R200 back plate is the easy way to get it to fit with no probs. Also the mustash bar is different, bolt hole width and curve is different, so pull one from a 280z. You'll need R200 half shafts. The U joint half shafts aren't great for high torque, CV's are quite a bit stronger, but require adapters. You yank a set of CV's from a 280ZX Turbo, and then use the adapter Ross has from http://www.modern-motorsports.com/ His adapter is based off of Scotty's old setup, they are CNC machined, and proven on the track. Could consider a disc brake upgrade in the back while you're at it.. Kinda goes on and on like this until your z is a great compendium of used car parts.

Hehe, no kidding, expecially since Z cars are so cheap to begin with. That's part of why we like them, right?

Permanent, eh? Ever watch the original "Gone in 60 seconds", you know the one from back in the 70's. Pretty cheap movie, but same idea where they stole a pristene vehicle of one type, then went to a car auction for really beat up cars and bought a car of the same type for like $300, then swapped the "permanent" id's over from the $300 car to the perfect condition stolen car, and crushed the junker. In the movie they even take out the windshield to get to that ever so tough to reach id tag on the dash board. Anyways, nothing I'd ever consider doing, but I wouldn't say there's no chance you'd get away with it. Still risky though, no doubt.

How to mount a Mercedes EFI V8 65mm throttle body to Z manifold: Mounted a Z31 throttle linkage pulley, and stock TPS on other side after shortening rod. Ended up taking out the PVC port insert and capped it off with a 1/2" NPT plug. My orange car has one of these mounted to it. I got the idea from James Thagard.

(stock 280zxt compressor up left, 50 trim to right top, CT26 bottom) The CT26 is larger than a stock T3, but smaller than most T4s. Supra Turbo came stock with 240hp at 6psi of boost. The CT26 tops out at around 15psi, which is enough to make the 7m-gte put out around 300hp to the ground. SSS510 is running 11's with a stock one on his stroked L28ET, he's also running NOS, but no intercooler. The waste gate hole is noticeably larger, and the compressor fin design is much different, probably a more modern design. The compressors can be honed out to fit a variety of garrett comprssors and turbines to fit your horse power needs up to 650hp keeping the stock housings. http://www.turbochargers.com/TurboUpgradecatalog/TOYOTACT26STOCK.htm Socalsupras.com has a list of people running 1/4 mile times with stock and modified CT26 turbos. When looking at the 1/4 mile times remember that these cars weigh 4000 pounds!!! http://www.socalsupras.com/race.htm It won't bolt right up to a t3 turbine flange, but with a little work anything is possible.

Supra510, I'm interested in your intake manifold, did you make it yourself? Did you replace the lower intake tubes as well, hard to see in the picture. What size throttle body do you have mounted to it? Did you use part of the stock intake manifold as a mating flange or fab your own? If I had an intake manifold like that it would simplify my intercooler piping greatly, and allow for a larger throttle body. The stock intake manifold isn't very flexable as far as larger throttle bodies go. Do you plan on sticking with the stock turbo for some time? I can't deside if I should upgrade the stock one, or go with a complete t4, or a slightly larger t series. Oh, my `87 Surpa Turbo with stock electronics, which has fuel cut at around 12psi of boost makes 290hp at the wheels. The stock intercooler is not very efficient. If I simply had a stand alone EMS for the Supra it would probably get another 20hp. Probably would need a better intercooler to do that, and maybe a better fuel pump. I'm running 550cc/min injectors (vs. stock 440cc/min) in the silver 240z, upgraded fuel pump, HKS intercooler, Wolf3D v4.0 EMS. Shortly after getting it on the road I'll slap on a metal head gasket, arp studs, and a new timing belt. Should have no problem being in the 320hp range, hoping to upgrade things to get in the 400hp range. I have a TRD clutch that should hold on without a problem.

This may be more of something to laugh about than to take into account. I'm still running an auto tranny out of a `72 in my orange 240zt, which has a t04b compressor. When it's hot outside and I've been driving it for a while it has a tendancy to slip on a hard launch, but otherwise it's pretty driveable, and shifts nice and solidly. I know I should replace this 3 speed tranny with probably the one out of a starion, but for the time being it's not breaking. I would think that the later model tranny sold with the 280zxt is stronger than the one that was bolted up to a NA L24 back in the early 70's. Sorry I don't have any solid 1/4 mile times, I've been playing with my setup a lot, but I think it's safe to say I'm capable of running high 13's at around 12psi of boost if my tranny is cool. After I get this MAF thing fine tuned I hope to turn up the boost a bit more, but don't expect to push very much through this little starion FMIC. James, is your current tranny setup just strait out of a starion/conquest using a L series maxima bell housing? Is the tranny a 3 speed with over drive?

No one may know off the top of their head. The easy way to find out is to measure how long the bolt has to be to get to where it starts threading in, and then add about 5mm for threads. Round the total length to the nearest number divisable by 5.

Matthew is right, it's just about the same thing as swapping in any other inline 6. The motor mounts and tranny mounts will have to be custom made. Get the engine as far back as you possibly can. You'll find that the 7m-gte is not as long of an engine as the L6. There are no other clearance issues, although the passenger tunnel is pretty close to the tranny with the 5 speed transmission. I may take the engine back out and club the tranny tunnel a time or two. The speedometer is the same on both cars (ratio isn't I think the supra had a 4.11:1 diff with larger tires), and the tranny slave cylinder has the same thread size as the datsun stuff.. The L6 oil presure gauge even screws right in where the 7m's did. Seems pretty simple, right? The exhaust system is on the oposite side, so that's something to work with.. You'll probabaly want to chop off the old tranny mounts in the z, as I wasn't able to use them. Paste the toyota and the datsun drive line together. I had to browse through a selection of radiator hoses, and found one that looks like a L shape that works. If you're getting a JDM engine replace the timing belt, and if you want to run high boost, say over 15 psi then replace the head gasket with a metal one. Here are a couple pics from when I first mounted the engine. http://www.zhome.com/~aktar/zcar/7m/mounted/

It's very scarry how some Z car keys are so interchangable, I guess a lot of it has to do with things getting warn. Little off topic here, but donno where else to stick this... There is a local car dealership that has some not so nice sales people, real small place, pretty trashy. Anyways, they had a 240z on their lot, WAY over priced, and I happen to see it after hours, so I'm looking at, but am curious as to what's under the hood. I have 3 Z keys on my key ring at all times and found one that would open the car up, just for fun I started the car up. Thought about leaving it on and locking her up, but I'm not that evil I generally respect other people's property much more. Can't stress enough how volnerable our Z's may be. Would be smart to have at least a fuel pump, or ignition switch hidden somewhere.