Tony240ZT

That's pretty awesome. From the look of it on that dyno run you could have gotten a bit more mid range if it didn't run lean. Like someone else stated $4500 isn't all too bad for that kind of performance out of an NA L6, but is still quite a large investment per horse power.

How much did you estimate your car weighing, my `73 with an auto tranny, fully equipped with half a tank of gas weighed in at 2350 pounds, put me in it and it weighs about 2520 or so. I'm no expert at this calculation deal so I just did a quick look up on yahoo for the calculators and put in your trap speed and weight at 2600 pounds and see estimated horse power at 158. I'm assuming this is to the wheels. Here are a couple sites I tried: http://tnmotorsports.com/dyno.htm http://www.torinocobra.com/horsepower.htm Oh by the way, my friend weighed his `73 with a manual tranny and it was quite a bit lighter, but he didn't have bumpers on it either. I think he was about 60-80 pounds less, don't remember exactly. It's not as easy as you'd like it to be to get 200+ hp out of these things. 14.8 1/4 isn't bad though. Correct me if I'm wrong in using those pages as calculators. On the other hand 200+ to the wheels with a small turbo, and efi system on the L6 is very streetable, and easy to obtain. Z-Gad is your block over bored .040in or is the head shaved some? If shaved to get 10:1 CR did you have to spacer up your cam towers?

I would be interested in seeing engine bay photos, and dyno sheets. Also would be intereseted to hear just how much a built NA L series would cost. I've seen quite a bit of NA guys saying they are making lots of power, but have rarely seen dyno sheets. Please enlighten me.

As I was telling Scotty earlier, the 2nd gen rx7 leading coil pack is a great performer at an awesome price. The coil pack is setup to fire two spark plugs at a time (so you would have wasted spark), and the igniter is built into them. The igniter is easy to interface with most aftermarket systems. Just supply +12 volts and the computer gives it a ground signal, and then the coil fires (the high current ground is pulled through the coil's dedicated ground wire, not the computer). I'm using the igniters to drive my stock coil packs on my 7m-gte, since the toyota igniter was more difficult to interface with. The coils with igniters (they bolt together) can be had for about $15 a peice, for a 6 cylinder you'd need 3, so $45 worth of these guys should be more than enough to drive 400+ horses. I'm assuming the distributorless system allows you to control ignition timing at all load points/RPM points. Also you get the advantage of using multiple coil packs for a stronger spark. For not much more money than the SDS you could jump into the Wolf3D, which has a hand held device with limited realtime data logging/map adjustment. For full resolution view/control you plug in a laptop. The Wolf3D can easily use the 280zxt distributor as a crank trigger sensor, or even use the `81 crank trigger setup, so you could save some money there by not having to pay for a custom trigger setup. The Wolf3D has a more modern processor, capable of higher RPM, and more aux. I/O's. The hand held has a lot of feed back that I think is well worth the extra couple hundred, you could spend that much in the guages that it replaces easily. My setup was $1500 shipped with a modifed crank angle sensor.

Turbo looks to be an unused Roto-Master. Compressor side is a T04B with V trim wheel, .60 A/R. Turbine is P trim (pretty sure), with a 1.15 A/R housing (T04 as well). I'd like to get a .81 A/R turbine housing on it, I guess they are $190 from turbonetics, should I look for a better deal? Will likely upgrade the compressor to at least a T04E housing when I get the cash. Does the T series bolt up to the t4 center section? Check out the tight turn I have to make off the back of the turbine, only have like 7 1/2" to make the job, and I'd like to use 3" pipe. Also the compressor outlet is a little tight, right next to the header. Maybe I'll spacer the turbo up a little bit to get a little more room to work with. Getting a little dusty... Not much room to fit 2 1/2" intercooler pipe in there, but I think I can make it fit. Compressor housing looks like it's been dropped on, but all else is fine.

I've heard that the stock chopper wheel works fine, but the z31 one has a larger gap for TDC. I would think that'd make a difference, but I guess not. You are correct, the NA ignition map is not what you are looking for on your turbo setup. Maybe an aftermarket ignition system can help tune you in, but most of those are pretty pricy. Hope others can help you in diagnosing the problem.

I'd save that little SR20 to put in your 240sx, roadster, 510.. Put a RB series into the Z car, it'll look much more at home in there, and make power easier. You could make the same or more power with the L28ET with less hassle, simple drop in motor, no fabricating mounts, no fabbing drive line, no rare parts.

Would love to see pics of the damage. I'm glad your block is doing well. I bet I have similar problems with my NA pistons in the L24ET, but I still push that little thing to 13psi and still loven the G's. Will keep pushing the bottom end until it goes south, and hopefully it doesn't take the turbo along with it. I'd go with replacing what's broken, getting the stand alone, and a nice front mount intercooler. If you have a little money left over you could upgrade to CV's, put rear disks on, and work on that external waste gate setup you were talking about, maybe even play around with different turbo sizes if you get bored . Since reading about the fact that people are making 350 to the wheels on 100K+ mile internals your new internals should really hold together as long as you keep the knocks down. Perhaps you'd like to get the car on the dyno with the new engine management system. Lots of people are saying it's worth the money to tune on the dyno. Also consider spending money on an adjustable fuel presure regulator, electronic boost controler, larger injectors, custom intake manifold, that tubular header you were talking about, hmmm.. does the list ever stop? I know mine doesn't.

The intake manifold is off of a japanese imported engine off of a 280zx NA.. The valve covers that are on those engines are pretty cool. Just say "NISSAN" on them. I have one off getting powerder coated. That color on the valve cover looks great. Is it powder coated, or engine paint? Was it clear coated after the top of it was polished? Here is the intake manifold on my L24ET in the orange car, I did some work on it first, and bolted on a 65mm throttle body w/no problems. Ya, I have to paint my intake pipes soon.

The trick with that paint is to put it on thin so that it can expand/contract with the metal without cracking. Using degreeser before hand helps a bunch too.. On my orange car I painted my exhaust manifold and turbine housing with that stuff and it's still doing fairly well. A while back I tried it on some other exhaust manifold, put it on too thick and within the first run it was pealing off all over. still doesn't last longer than a year or so though, I think.

I was looking at his auctions as well.. Was wondering if I should go with a .82 a/r turbine housing with the stage III wheel on my DOHC 3.0L supra engine. I thought if the L series SOHC with smaller displacement could push .63 a/r why couldn't a 3.0, DOHC, header, 3" exhaust, big fmic push the larger a/r.. Also my 2.4L is running the stock .63 a/r with a t04b compressor very easily. The thing spins up super quick. Anyone else believe the .82 a/r would be best, or should I go with a .63? Looking to make a little over 400 to the wheels (hopefully pump gas will get me there), and looking for good 1/4 mile times. 60-1 compressor sounds great for what I'm looking for, just confused about turbine side. I have a 1.25" waste gate port if that helps in the equation.

T-Bolt clamps shouldn't cut the hose, unless you have some really soft silicone.. You should get the hoses that have some fabric mesh in them.

I got my water cooled center section out of a 300zx (z31), also can get them out of Saab 900's..

Hope we'll see your engine over 20psi with the stand alone and good intercooler. I have a set of 440cc/min injectors if they would help, but I can help you find a set of 550's out of rx7's if you'd like. I need to get my orange car to the track to see my times with 14psi. The modded starion IC seems to be handling it okay. What was your best time so far with the t04e compressor? Have you done any minor porting of the cylinder head? If not would probably help a little to get that nasty casting junk out of there.

Do you think you'll be going with forged pistons, ARP fasteners and metal head gasket this time? Let me know if you need pictures hosted of your internal's damage. Wouldn't the external wastegate help keep the wasted exhaust from bothering the path of the exhaust coming out the back of the turbine? Sounds like a good thing to me. Do you have boost creep? A modified turbo back plate/down pipe would probably help quite a bit though by giving a smoother run from the waste gate port into the down pipe, I think Scottie's down pipe on the GN is like that? That sharp bend in the case just can't be good when trying to flow a lot of air out of that little hole.

I'm interested in what you're doing about your tranny as well since my old 3 speed slips a lot under load now (orange car). I was going to go with the starquest tranny like you had, but am not sure. Although I'm not planning on making as much power I think it's possible I'll see around 320 to the wheels some day. Should the starquest tranny hold that with no problems?

Here was my pull through setup that I ran on a L24/E88 combination, with my distributor modded a little. Ran a single SU carb that kept running out of it's fuel bowl, what a pain, also I don't think my air/fuel ratios were good enough for under boost. Was only able to run like 6psi, and I probably only made like 15 more horse power over the stock NA setup. I talked with a guy that had dual Jag SU's that made a good amount of horse power. He didn't have 1/4 mile times to back it up or anything though. My fuel injection setup is far easier to maintain, and my car with the intercooler probably has 50 more horse power than my old setup with the same block. I did switch heads, and the electronic ignition seemed to help too. I'm now able to run about 14psi.

Can't wait to see how you get everything stuffed under the hood. Will you be cutting more sheet metal to get the room? Could convert that side of car to a tubular frame to really open it up so you can let your mind run wild with tubing design

I'm running 370cc/min injectors, but for the boost level I'm running with the intercooler the larger injectors are not needed. With the stock AFM when I'd crank up the boost and try to suck more air through it would close up on me, acting like a 2nd throttle body that I have no control over (like a govener). The car wouldn't run lean because it couldn't get enough air through to make it lean. I think the reason is, is because I'm running the larger injectors so I had to tighten up the AFM door a little for an "okay" idle, and also my engine is only 2.4L.. I think because of the smaller displacement I don't have quite enough suction to drive the door open and keep the power up. The car seems to have awesome power and response, and I know I have far more power than a stock L28ET, but for some reason the stock AFM w/ the larger injectors just isn't cutting it for me. Hopefully converting the system over to a MAF setup will fix most of my problems. I'm hoping that after I don't have that restrictive AFM there I can crank up the boost and get into the mid to low 13's. I think I'd be happy with that since I don't have much invested.

t3/t4 seems to be the best setup for street and strip. A T04E compressor with a stage III turbine would be pretty sweet. T04B's aren't bad at all either, just depends how much power you're looking to make, most T04B housings will fit with no spacers. I'm running a t04b with stock turbine housing, but only running like 7psi right now. It spools very fast even though I'm not running inside of it's highest effeciency point it seems to be far better than the stock compressor. After I get my fuel deal figured out I should be able to boost 13-14psi with my modded starquest intercooler. I personally think even for street driving the stock t3 is a bit small, it seems to spool so dang fast, making you think you have more to come when you put your foot into it all the way, but there really isn't much after that first kick. That kinda setup make the car kinda jerky feeling, and could leave a passenger wonder about your own driving habits. My larger throttle body probably contributed to this though.

Wow, looks like the t4 flange bolts will clear the outsides of the t3 flange. Quite a bit larger. I've already sold the 7m manifold on ebay, sorry about that, also sold the turbo. I needed to get money to cover the header price.

This is for the 7m-gte.. I'm half way tempted to try out a large a/r t3 turbine with stage III wheel, then go with the 60-1 compressor, but will give it some more thought, and take some measurements. Kinda bummed about the header, and still thinking of trading it in, the guy sold it on ebay as having a t04 flange. It actually has a t25 welded on top of a t3 flange, gotta cut out the t25. Don't think my L series will be seeing more than about 250hp to wheels in it's life. Thanks guys for your thoughts.

As an easy and cheap option that probably won't give you long life (but some grins) you could try a P90 head on a L24 block like I have. I'm using a hybrid turbo with t04b compressor, intercooled and a little modified 280zxt electronics. It really starts packing on the power over 5k rpms, and really pulls hard up to 6500rpm. I'm pretty sure it'll keep climing, but am afraid things might come apart up there. I haven't been in many turbo Z's, and I'm not sure what a L28ET is like winding up there, but my engine opens up real nice up there has this turbo'd Ferrari sound

Just wondering if anyone has a picture of a t3 exhaust flange next to a t4 one because I'm thinking of welding one onto my turbo header, but am just wondering what the size difference would be. I'm thinking the t4 flange will be over lapping the edges of the header. If you have deminsions that'd be awesome. I think I'd have to build some sort of funnel to mate up with the flange. On the other hand I've heard you can make quite a bit of power with a t3 turbine. I'm shooting for 400hp at the wheels, is this possible with a t3? Will the 60-1 compressor housing bolt up to a t3/t4 center section? There's this t4 manifold out on ebay right now, with a port for an external waste gate: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1872303298 I'm wondering if I should sell my SS header and pick this up. My header isn't equal length, but is tubular, and is far closer to being equal length than the cast manifold. http://www.zhome.com/~aktar/zcar/7m/header/mvc-872f.jpg There is a freaking T25 flange welded ontop of the t3 flange on my header, I don't understand why someone builds a header, then puts this little tiny turbo on an engine that is an inline 6, DOHC, with a very strong bottom end. Can someone enlighten me as to why the header builder did such a thing? Is it possible that you could have a pea shooter turbine side, and then rely on your waste gate to vent off any unwanted back presure for like insta-spool?

What kinda great deals have you guys found on them? I have one off of a 924 Porsche I was thinking about using, but am thinking of selling it to go with something with a smaller actuator.