Tony240ZT

Would taking the RPM from the - side of the coil, or trigger be any different than from the computer? The deal I'm building is a SAFC and it will work for the 300zx setup, but I'm not taking in very much data, just info from the MAF. I donno if it matters, but the TPS is a points type and not a linear potentia meter type like some SAFC's and other similars may require. By points I mean a connection is made with the center pin and an outer pin at idle, then at WOT the other outer pin is shorted with the middle pin. The 280zxt only has 2 TPS wires, to let the computer know the car is at idle, or not, that's it! Anyways, my project is getting closer to being done. I have one chip that can't deal with the under the hood temps, so I guess I'll have to use long wires and bring it inside the cabin. I have about 150 physical adjustable load points. So the SAFC doesn't have a harness plug of any sort? You have to just tap into the wires you need? That sounds kinda messy. I hope to make everything just plug right in, except for +12v and Gnd. Let me know how it goes, and I'd like to know where you find adjustment is needed. Are you trying to get it working so that you can use larger injectors? If so what size. Do you expect to get the car on a dyno to get it tuned well, or just going by its data logger? Does it have a data logger? How about an interface to a computer?

Hi there, and welcome to the group. Sorry I don't have a lot of time to respond right now, so if you can get back with specific questions later then I'll get back to them. Your stock fuel pump will do for the stock engine, hold onto the other fuel pump just incase yours dies. Your drive shaft will not work with the turbo Borg Warner T5 tranny. You will need the drive shaft out of the 280zx Turbo manual car. It then needs to be shortened a little bit (like 3 inches) and the tranny requires a little bit of mods to fit in the car, like being set back on the mounts about 1 inch. There is a web site out there that covers it all. I think I have a link to it off of my web page, it's Brian Littles Z Barn. I'm not sure on ratios, either 5 speed trannies will be fine though, others should fill in on that. For the wires, start with a 280zx haynes manual to get a good idea about how the system is laid out. I and others on the list can help with specifics. You can probably search for the topic and you'll find where I've writen a bit on the wiring to others. Keep an eye out for a good sized intercooler, it will turn up the grin factor.

Sounds like the z31 system is better suited for higher horse power numbers out of the box. I'm sure the system could be reprogrammed, but as to who has the knowledge to do so is another question that may have you running in circles. Does the system support multiple coil packs? I think the Grand National setup is a well proven flexable system with many options (sequential injection fire, I think multi coil pack, knock sensor, ready to boost!, and many ways to adjust things). If you're thinking of going to a completely new setup maybe you should consider the GN setup. Also I've noticed a MKIII Supra Turbo out in the junk yard. There are a lot of wires to the system, but in stock form with 440cc/min injectors, batch fire, multi coil pack config the supra will make 290hp at the crank. It supports 2 knock sensors, and picks up crank possition from a cam possition sensor that rotates twice clock wise for every crank rotation (magnetic pickups could be adapted to any crank). HKS makes a fuel cut defender to boost more, a sport fuel and timing piggy back computer (for different sized injectors), a Vein Presure Converter setup to rid of the MAF (for different injector sizes), and a BCC to fine tune things.

The L28 NA install should be just the same as the turbo setup, just some slightly different programming on my part. I'd like to be able to reprogram the ecus for the 300zx. To properly control timing, I think that's the best thing to do. As to weather program changes will need to be done with the 280z/x/t is yet to be known.

I haven't installed the 300zx setup, am going to adapt the 300zx maf to the 280zxt ecu though since lots of people are running with that setup. Should have the parts in tomorrow to start playing. Will work on adapting the maf to 280z and na 280zx, and possibly L series maxima or others that are similar with interest. My setup will allow for the maf output to be fully adjustable, allowing use of larger injectors, different engine configureation, ect. Hope to have a package deal for Z car owners for under $120. It's basicly a piggy back system that is programable with a PC. The main problem with people going with the stock 300zx setup is the lack of injector pulse control, making it so that you have to run stock sized injectors, or have JWT reprogram it for big $$$ and still not be exact for your engine setup. Although realizing JWT has put a lot of time into their product and mine is still on the drawing board, so consider Ron's offer if that's what you're looking for.

I've messed with 8 bit motorola processors, and HC11. I have a 300zx turbo ECU laying around if you could tell me how to probe the thing I may be able to help. If it's a different architecture than I'm used to I could probably pick it up quickly.

You can manually do the cleaning yourself by grounding pins C, D then apply 12V to E, and F. This will make the wire glow. Do this for about 1 second. I think C and D are usually grounded while the car is on, and E gets power while the car is on, so if you wanted to control the cleaning from inside the car all that you'd have to do is apply 12V to pin F. I think pin F is only used as a signal to turn up the power, the current flows through E. So, no relay would be required. Really simple, here is the layout. After you turn off your car, turn the ignition back to on and now you can do the cleaning while the car is not running. You should get one of those push button switches that don't click and stay on, just one of those buttons that are only on when you physicly have your finger on it because you only want to do this for about 1 second.

Here is a little eye candy for those who don't get to see it happen in person.

InitialZ do you program them yourself? If so I'd love to learn more about the hardware and code. If you can share any info I'd be very greatful. Lots of info out there on GM hardware, but close to none on the Nissan stuff.

Had mine done a little under a year ago, very happy. Agreed best money spent.

What kind of horse power are you looking to make? I've heard of a couple guys making around 350hp at the wheels with stock internals and a t04e compressor, keeping with the stock t3 turbine housing and going to like a stage III turbine wheel. Fuel system upgrades are required, along with a good sized intercooler. Other mods would include fresh air intake, 3" exhaust system, larger throttle body, and most likely some modifications will have to be done on the engine management side. Keep your eyes open for some gizmos for piggy back engine management that I will be offering in the near future.

There are two sensors there at the thermostat housing. The one with the green wire coming out of it is a thermo switch that comes on when the engine gets hot enough to turn on the aux fuel injector fan. This doesn't effect the engine management. The other wire which is yellow is for the gauge and doesn't effect engine management either. The engine management relies on the head temp sensor and the air temp sensor as far as temp sensors go. I took this picture a while back for visual reference on the same topic.

Thanks a bunch!! That's EXACTLY what I was looking for. I'll let you know how it goes. I'm actually adapting the z31 mass air to a 280ZX Turbo system using a PIC microprocessor, a few analog to digital chips and a few digital to analog chips. Hopefully will be able to get a package deal out for the L28ET guys who want to rid of their door type AFM. I will be controling the cleaning cycle myself, am not sure exactly how long the wire should be heated, but will not be using a speed sensor, will simply do the cleaning if rpm is taken above a certain amount.

If you already have the fuel AIC and the Y pipe I'd just try that out. That would give you a chance to see how well the system works before you invest money into modifying your intake manifold. Just put the Y pipe right before. If you find out later that the system isn't flexable enough for your needs then you can opt for the stand alone system. You may find you're happy with the 2 added injectors and the stock AFM/computer. Personally I've had many troubles trying to get a lot of horse power and keeping my A/F ratio correct with the AFM.

I need all the information that I can get on the Z31's mass air flow meters. I'd like to know how much voltage is supplied to each pins, and which ones are used to read voltage levels (by the ecu). Also is one of the pins dedicated to cleaning the MAF? I've done searches on Bosch MAF meters on the web with little results on details. It would help if I had the engine wiring harness for a Z31. The harness is not in the Haynes manual, is there a conspiracy against knowlege?

I'm thinking if I'm going as far as remapping things I might as well use a mass air flow meter. I think more people would be interested if they could convert to a commenly found MAF. I have a Z31 Turbo MAF laying around. I'm sure a non turbo one would work just as well. Part of my problem is due to the restrictive AFM, so it'd make me a lot happier.

I've been getting more and more into electronics. I think by setting up the AFM so that the full range is used with your engine and then modifing the map with a piggy back computer is the way to go for those of us who have upgraded injectors. I've had such a hard time getting my car to idle well AND have good power under boost. Most of the time my car is running rich just so that if the AFM doesn't react quick enough I have some room. The reason why my AFM isn't reacting quick enough sometimes is because I have to have the thing tightened down more than it should be. I will be working on a piggy back system for myself, and hopefully evolving it to a full engine management system down the road. If my setup proves to work well you guys will be the first to know about it and I will offer it at the best price I possibly can. To keep the piggy back system cheap I'll probably limit it to only taking in inputs from the head temp, RPM, o2 sensor, and AFM posistion. If we believe that the stock timing is not a major problem, then for sake of keeping it cheap I don't think I'll play with it. The mods required would be splicing about 6 harness wires, and you would have to program it with a computer. We could share our configureations over the net, and a default setup would be included. It would cost you around $60 for what I have in mind. Let me know if this is something you guys would be interested in, and if it would be worth the money. Also, what other features would you like? I could probably setup a true closed loop setting so that fuel management is controled directly by the o2 sensor. Possibly could do data logging, but not certain on how much data could be stored. Feel free to email me directly on this, and if you are into electronics help me brain storm.

Nice and smooth. Bet it will noticable help. Here is my squared off one that I made for less than $10 That was with the stock turbo was easy to use it along with the new to4b w/4" mouth now, just used a 3" to 4" flexable adapter.

It's sad, I haven't even touched the car in about 3 months. I just got a job, though, so shortly after I pay bill collectors I'll jump right back in where I left off. As I've said before I still need an exhaust system, drive line modded, and intercooler piping. I would almost like to make my own intake manifold before I do intercooler piping because I want to have a smoother route and a larger throttle body. I've got the CV adapters, and will probably start putting those on this week, but I still have an open diff, so I guess I'll have to put a LSD on the list of parts to get. I've put a new set of yokohama avs's on the car right before I parked it, the tokico struts and springs are practicly new, put in new bushings, and MSA sway bars. The car should handle great, I've only put the toyota 4x4 front calipers on for brake upgrades, but I really hope to do more soon. I figure it'll cost me around this much to get it on the road, along with buying a new welder so that I can make the intake manifold myself. ~$500 for welder, maybe I can find a good one used though ~$100 for welding and balancing the drive line ~$400 for LSD + new rubber mount ~$150 for aluminum intercooler piping + T clamps ~$250 for a 3" ehxaust system + muffler + tip Think that's about right? My local muffler shops don't do mandrel exhaust systems, I guess I should drive the car to somewhere that can, any recomendations for southern california? If I wanted someone else to do the intake manifold, it'll be just a log type, how much do you think it'd cost me? I'd just mount up one of those cheap, if you can find them, Mercedes 450SL 60mm throttle body. I would need a blow off valve too, so I'll look around on thepartstrader and ebay. My tranny sticks out a little more on the passenger side than it does the drivers side, and I think it could rock enough to hit the tunnel. I think it'd be an easy fix if I just took the engine out and banged a bit on the tunnel, I'm lazy, so I'll probably see if it hits first before doing. I'll get more pictures when I start work on things again. Oh, I forgot I scavanged the car's electric fans for my orange car, so there's something else I have to pick up. I bet I'll have to put another $1500 in before I have it on the road.

Just wondering, does anyone besides me have a 7m in their engine compartment? If so please send pics. I'm not sure if I'm happy with my tranny mount. If you have a little more money go with the 2jz. The jz engines rev higher because of their better head flow, they also don't pop their head gaskets as easily. I think the jz engines have oil squirters at the bottom of the pistons as well. I picked the 7m because I'm familiar with it and it was priced right.

That MKIII one at the top is like an acordian and is restrictive in comparison to the MKIV one. The MKIII one is probably good for ~300hp with a lot of heat while the MKIV one is comfortable at ~350hp. The size and shape of the MKIII's IC is a nice fit for the Z car and that's why I picked an aftermarket MKIII IC from HKS for my Z car. Get the large NPR one if you're going for OEM stuff

I think you're correct to assume the head gasket. I'm sure a presure test will prove it. Almost like the head gasket is keeping a seal up to a certain degree (holding the water in), but as soon as you are into the high boost range air is able to get into the water system. Sorry to hear about the problems, just don't let your radiator get busted from it! I've heard of stories where radiators have been damaged from these exact circumstances. Any chance your head is lifting!? I'm sure you have the head torqued down well, so that would be odd. On those metal head gaskets you REALLy have to have a nice mirror like surface on the contact areas to make a good seal. Best of luck, keep us updated.

If someone has a home made kit I'd be interested in what you used to get it working well. I know there are some kits, but I think it could be done for far less money, and the aluminum welded tanks are a little over doing it for just holding water and a vacuum. Do these systems use pumps, or do they just use the boost presure to inject the water? Are there cheap mechanical or electrical vacuum switches out there? I guess a waste gate could be used as a mechanical arm/lever to open and close something usefull.

I pulled my compressor T4 housing/wheel/back plate off of a ford diesel. Just happened to be around the size I wanted, t04b V trim with .60 A/R. The turbine setup was more like 1.0 A/R too big. The compressor will easily swap onto a t3 garrett, you may have to find out a different way to mount the waste gate actuator. New bushings/seals can be found from http://www.turbocity.com/

I've been in a finacial bind since the great amount of lay offs last year. I've found some work as an electronic engineer now, so soon I should have money to start dumping back into the car. The only thing that is holding me back is a drive line, exhaust system, and intercooler piping. The engine runs fine in the engine bay. Luckly I haven't been without a sporty ride this whole time. My `73 240Z has a t3/t4 turbo, intercooler, on a fuel injected L24 w/P90 head. My `87 Supra Turbo is a fun ride too. I will probably sell my `81 280ZX and put the money towards the `72 w/the 7m-gte. Am also considering selling the Supra to make the `73 my daily driver. Just got the CV adapters from Ross at Modern Motor Sport, so I will be bolting them in soon. Also would like to get my hands on a R200 LSD before I start on the CV job. The quality of these CNC CV adapters look great!