Tony240ZT

EVERYTHING is more expencive in the bay area. Lots of people finding other parts of California too expencive are moving here, even people from LA are coming to Bakersfield to get away from the busy-ness and for better priced homes. My orange car had about 140k miles on it when I bought it, it used to have all matching paint (10 years old), orignal engine/4 speed tranny/SUs, 14x6 wheels. The seats needed to be recovered, and the dash and consol had a couple cracks. But overal the car was a great daily driver. Picked the car up for $1,800 2 years ago. My silver car was all original, had around 95k miles on it, and was pretty clean from the get go (was painted metailic blue back then, little faded). Bought it from the original owner 6 years ago for $2,700 Both cars had very little rust, but needed suspention work, needed their SUs tuned, and had minor over heating issues in the summer. I think you can expect to pay around $2,000 for a car that will be driveable right away, needing some tuning, suspention and brake work. Since the cars around here are generally rust free, and if you're willing to put a little work into for say a new clutch, or a blown head gasket job then think cheap.

Some time ago I posted to this thread about the fact that I had a bran new hood that just wouldn't line up. I never did figure out the problem. You guys set me strait on the fact that all of these hoods (240/260/280z) should swap easily, so I finally found a hood out in the junk yard for my semi beat orange 240zt. I haven't posted picks of the car with the intercooler on it, so this is a first. I think the vents on the `77 hood are nice. I hope to get the car painted after I figure out what other body mods to do, such as flares, and air dam. If someone has some sort of air dam that only needs minor fixing that they'd want to sell please let me know. I'm working on a different set of mirrors, I think I know what I want, definately not happy with what the previous owner's taste. I think I'll end up painting the bumpers the same color as the body, and filling in the holes, they are very strait, but just need chrome or paint to look nice. I'm kinda going towards the two tone color theme, with the top half a different color than the mid and bottom. If anyone has some pictures of cars like this I'd like to see them. I think I've seen a silver car with blue top on zdriver.com... I'm kinda thinking like how some of the 240sx's have a black top, early 90's NSX's were like that too. Or maybe some stripes, something to just make it different than the silver car. If anyone would like to live their paint dream through my car speak now or forever hold your pease.

No wide band o2 sensor, yes that would be nice. Yep, $1500 includes the whole shabang, wires, temp sensors, and pickups. Just gotta get your own coil packs.. So the LS1 coils are the best way to go huh? I thought I was going to upgrade the 2jz-gte coil packs. They snap right into the 7m-gte as well (no wires is pretty nifty). A lot of those dyno queen supras run the stock coils, so I bet you're doing just great with your setup. You'll have to run past me your supra's setup again, last time I heard you were running without anything controling the waste gate, and you were running the stock ecu with something to bypass fuel cut. Obviously much has changed since then. How close are you to breaking 400hp at the wheels? Have you taken it to the track?

The Wolf3D v4 has a cartrige that you can take inside to your desktop PC. Although it does do some neat things when a laptop is plugged into it while the car is running, such as highlighting the current fuel or ignition map in which you are currently running on, also makes everything very visual like aux inputs blink, fan on/off, RPM, idle control pulsing, injector duty, air/fuel ratio. All of that can be seen on the handheld, but since the display is so small you have to page through it, and the laptop has anolog looking gauges which are easier to read than digits. The system will do distributorless ignition for up to 12 cylinders, the pickup can be on the crank, in a modified distributor housing, or a sensor driven by the cam. Then the system drives multi coil packs with wasted spark config for anything over 6 cylinders. You could easily run 4 coils, or 8 coils if you wanted to (3 or 6 for 6 cylinder). Like I said in another post I got my setup after taxes, shipped, and with a machined cam possision sensor for $1500.. All I had to do then was pick out coil igniters. I used 2nd gen rx7 coil igniters (these are like very fast relays, taking the load of the power needed to power the coils from the computer). I also needed an o2 sensor, some 12v relays, fuses, and a vacuum switch to use the boost controler. http://www.wolfems.com/ http://www.wolfems.com.au/

My system was $1500 shipped, which included machine work to my igntion pickup. System includes wiring, sensors, and tech support. I even got them to throw in a set of 550cc/min injectors. For more commen engines, ie the 2jz-gte, there are dynoed maps that they will share with you to get your car running well.

Well, 10 pounds of boost is right on the edge of going lean with a stock setup. Sorry, I can't remember your setup, and your web page doesn't work. If you're not running an intercooler, then maybe you should turn it down a notch or two. Retarding the timing will help, but it will make the car more slugish off the line. I had no problems running about 11psi without an intercooler, but I was running larger injectors, and my block config is different. Oh, I had a clean 2 1/2" down pipe, and a 65mm throttle body. Like I stated earlier, check to see that your head temp sensor is working as it should, also replace the o2 sensor if it's been run for a long time. (Edit) Forgot to meantion you should check that your TPS works as well (/Edit) Just picked up another Mercedes 450SL 65mm throttle body today, one of Scotty's friends has first dibs. They are a great upgrade. Oh, saw some volvo intercoolers out there today, could probably get them for $40, if you're interested.

I have a set of 215/60 on 15 inch rims on my silver 240zt and am very happy with them, maybe I should get a set for the orange car too.

For those of you unsure about the Z history here is a link to info from zhome.com http://zhome.com/History/history.html It meantions how Dr. Goertz and Nissan couldn't agree on the smaller 2.0L engine for the Z, so Goertz and Yamaha took their work to Toyota. So, Goertz did work with Nissan first on what would become the Z, but the 2000GT was produced first in much smaller numbers (that might clear up the fact that the Z was under dev. before the 2000GT, but at that point it was more of an idea than a Z). I think it's correct to give credit to Goertz for the basic design, size, and lines of the Z, and give Nissan credit for making it a car that the American market would love. I'm glad we got a better looking grill, but I would have loved to have a cross flow head, oh well the 7m-gte fits just fine, which is funny because Supra owners trace their roots back to the 2000GT, so it's kinda like I have a more modern 2000GT engine in my Z now. The engine of the MKIV supra, the 2jz and it's brother the 1jz, were influinced greatly by Yamaha. So, as you can see there are a lot of connections to the past, and the Supra and the Z, in my book, are of the same family. If you look around you'll see many of the Z owners with Supras, and it's no mere coincidence, owners of both are buying into the same fundimental ideas that both cars share. I think the fundimentals were planted by Goertz, and the two great japanese car companies have adapted those ideas to the times at hand, and to the group of buyers they wanted to sell to.

Btw that comparison page had info on the Wolf3D v3.0, the 4.0 is out now and they did quite a bit of changes, new processor, new software, more goodies.. BLKMGK, Pete Sanders has been running with the 3.0 system for around 3 years now. Programming it with a computer is far easier than doing it with the handheld, you can't manipulate all of the map points on the hand held. I don't think the data logging will play back data (not sure, been messing with my orange car too much to get time for the other). It's possible all data can be logged if you have the PC hooked up. Pete may know. Would be worth checking out their page for details, I will know a LOT more before the end of the year as I get my orange car is better shape and have more time for my silver.

I want one for O-Ringed injectors. I have a set of 440cc/min supra turbo injectors I'd like to install..

Sounds like some more features that the Wolf3d 4.0 doesn't have, but the Wolf3D is worth mentioning. The fact that it is user friendly, and very flexable are things that could easily make others bite on it. The new stuff from AEM sounds great, and I myself being a data-ologist, jr electronic engineer, and computer programmer could really apreciate some of that stuff. Would it really make my car run any better than my current setup, probably not for my application, but would it be fun, sure I bet. Anyways, if you can give us the inside scoop when new things come up that'd be awesome.

BLKMGK I'm really interested in why you don't bring the Wolf3D system up (you meantioned you had some reason in an earlier post). It has the ability to use any temp sensor (table setup just like you mentioned), has many different ways to bring in timing, overall pretty flexable. It's the only system I know of that has the handy hand held LCD, which I think is a great tool. Everyone I have talked to that has used it loves it, and the techs seem very knowlegable. There's even a 510 guy that races with a L28ET on the developement team. Anyways, I've got a small list of engine management systems on my links page on my site. Also worth checking out EFI hardware if you wanna go with a multi port throttle body fuel injection system, very pricy in deed.

Hey Dustin, glad you found my email. Hope you follow through with the swap. I usually hang out in the turbo section. There is a guy in Oz that installed one in his 240Z. The guy is a big time soccer player over there and has tons of money to dump into his car. He had someone else do the work for him, ended up looking very clean, he has the same setup as I do, intercooler, stand alone engine management, after market clutch. If I had more money that T60 turbo, forged internals, arp fasteners, ceramic coatings, and porting would be done before dropping it in. But I guess the stock 260hp (jap spec) isn't bad in an old z car. The fasteners and metal head gasket are the first on my list of upgrades, then I'll be searching around for a larger turbo setup.

It's what they go for I guess.. Not the best price, but they are hard to get your hands on. The Mercedes 65mm throttle body is another option, about 4 guys have done the swap here on hybrid, including myself, scottyMiz, James Thagard, and one other guy running SDS. If you do a search on it you'll find it. Requires a little mod to the throttle body, and the obvious porting of the intake.. If you can find one in the junk yard should be a lot less money, say around $50, and if you get lucky around $30.

Reading the resistance on the AFM doesn't seem to prove all too much, reading the actual voltage gives you a much better picture. Pop the plastic top off, turn the key into the on possision so that power is going to the AFM now read the power from the "tower", which is pin 32, and ground out the black wire on your multimeter on the chassis. It should read 5 volts. Now move the door open slowly while still reading the voltage, and the voltage should decrease to almost 0 volts when fully open. The voltage should never jump, or drop while moving the door. As for the temp sensor, I haven't gotten that far yet, just read what the haynes manual says on how to check it. Let me know what you find out. I can tell you for sure that the temp sensor on the MAF is a LOT more sensitive, and more accurate. I just replaced my head temp sensor today, the one I had in there was making the car run a little more lean than it should have been, so the car is happier now. Would be worth checking that out as well. They are like $38 though, and a new bosch O2 sensor is always a great thing if you doubt the condition of yours, they are about $35. Bill, I really want to, but I've got to have my orange car running well enough to get by as a daily driver so that I can sell my supra turbo to get the money to do things right on the 7m-gte. Lately I don't have time to do a lot of fabricating so looks like I'll be paying someone to do my intercooler hoses and exhaust system, as well as my drive line. I have this idea for a different intake manifold, one that looks more like the Z ones, and that would change my whole intercooler piping setup, so I'm not sure what I should do first. Making a new intake manifold would allow me to bolt on a larger throttle body, and have a cleaner engine compartment, and less intercooler piping, OH and it would keep the pipe that goes into the throttle body away from the hot turbo. How much money do you think I'd have to throw at this thing to get those jobs done? Maybe $500 for fab and metal + a throttle body + a BOV? There is a guy that welded up the 2 1/2" end pipes on my starion intercooler for the orange car that could probably do everything for me, so I'll have him check it out once I've got a thick pocket.

Not bad, expecially considering the a/f ratio deal. Could the problem of the original SDS setup just be simply due to the fact that you need a new o2 sensor?

Fill me in on what your engine setup is and maybe I can work you in as a tester. Which year of 280zxt ecu do you have, what size injectors, what size turbo, how much boost your running, intercooled?, do you have an air/fuel ratio guage, do you have access to a laptop computer? Gimmie about 2 weeks or so, things are pretty hectic at work right now. I wish I could just dedicate my time to playing with cars some how. Oh well, back to coding I go...

AEM has been selling the Wolf3D system from Austrailia for a few years. It is a great system at a fair price. It does data logging, which can be seen on its hand held LCD display, or on a computer. It supports multiple fuel/ignition maps through a memory cartrige. You can switch between the two when ever you'd like, and make map changes on the fly. Supports multi coil packs and sequential spark and fuel up to 4 cylinders, and then does paired batch fuel/wasted spark on 2 cylinders at a time with 6/8/12 cylinders. Supports staged injection, has auxilory inputs and outputs, rpm switches, electric fan switch, and the system is adaptable to a lot of engines easily. Can even use a stock 280zx turbo distributor with the stock trigger wheel, or they can supply a crank trigger system for you. http://www.wolfems.com/ for the US site and http://www.wolfems.com.au/ for the OZ site. I have the system installed on my toyota 7m-gte engine, and Pete Sanders has the system on his L28ET. It will drive many types of injectors, I have a set of 550cc/min Rx7 injectors in my setup.

Looks like Scotty's B2000 pickup truck with a L28E running with a `76 280Z EFI system can help me with the 280Z setup as well as the L28ET info from his Z car. Thanks Scotty!

Yes, my engine is going to be different. The whole idea of the system is flexability, and customizing the map to your car. I will probably need some help from people with commen setups to get a good solid base fuel map for those engines. I have my 280ZX NA to get an anolog system working for those cars, my 280zx is stock. I could use someone to help me with an anolog system for a 280Z. And I could use someone with a pretty much stock L28ET (stock block, injectors, and t3 turbo), it would be great if that person could run their car with my system intercooled and non intercooled to have a comparison. A laptop is needed for data logging. Cusp, what is your engine setup, and what kind of features would you be looking for? Do you think you would be mostly interested in the cheaper anolog system or the full featured digital system? Here is a web page I've wipped up for it, please feel free to correct any errors. The 3D modeling was done by myself, so please ask before using any of my images. AFM to MAF Conversion Page

The car was running on the AFM while collecting numbers. I need to find a good relationship between the two to get a starting point for my fuel map. I had the MAF strapped on right infront of the AFM, wired up, but not talking with the Nissan ECU. I'm waiting for a new head temperature sensor to come in from Courtesy, I think mine is off a bit. Then I'll run and collect data again, find the relationship, and program it as my base fuel map, then start tweaking as needed from there. I've had the car idling with the MAF and it does idle noticeably smoother. I had to manually enter all of the possible load points for an idle to get it to work, and that's not much fun. So, I'm now working on a windows application that will simplify setting it up and tweaking.

The carbed turbo setup is a way to go. I've tried it myself with a draw through SU with a t3. I figured I could have a slightly better performing 240z and something special without a big investment and no weires. As anyone that has done any tinkering on their car finds out, horse power is adictive. A nicely setup carbed system was going to cost me more than a junk yard EFI system, and was probably going to give me less performance and more greef. Now adays there are EFI systems out in the junk yard that are inexpencive that would be far better for the application. From experience, it's just hard to get a hold on the air fuel ratio and keep it consistant. Gas mileage isn't all that great, and there is a lot of maintenance. If it's what drives you then go for it, but if you want to go with an EFI system I'll help you with with any questions you may have, and even tell you stuff you don't want to know

Just wanted to give you guys something to let you know that the project that I was talking about where I was going to get a MAF working on a stock 280ZX Turbo ECU/Harness is still in motion. I did a little bit of data logging while driving my orange 240zt around with the blue line being output from the AFM and brown data from the Z31 MAF. The figures have been manipulated a little bit so that they are compareable. Here is a snippit from my drive around the block: Notice that the MAF (brown) seems to have more steps, is not quite as jerky, and it has a greater range of sensitivity. These are just a couple great reasons why those old AFMs should be swapped out. The major reason for me to do this is because my AFM has to be pretty tight to get it to idle with the larger injectors, making it really restrictive on the high side. My car with the AFM has been running on the rich side, so I expected the blue (AFM) to be higher. The output after offsetting, inverting, and multiplying come out to be very compareable, so I think that I could make a system that is fully anolog and not programable for cheap, like say under $30, still allowing for slight adjustment, maybe just enough to run larger injectors without a problem. The digital system will have many more features, and I'll be working to get it done first, as I think my car will really liven up with a custom fuel map since I have that little L24 that makes hardly any power until that mad t3/t4 turbo spools. I'm having to run good sized injectors to have that top end and I'd like to have a good idle. I do expect to have an anolog system for the 280Z, and 280ZX NA, if I can get my hands on a 280Z test car. For Z31 guys I will do what I can to help you out, and I think you guys will require a digital system.

I would almost think that splitting the voltage output into 2 on both of them would work well. You do this by using two resistors of equal amount one connected to the output of the AFM/MAF the other is connected to ground, connect the two together and then hook your computer sensor wire up there in the middle of the two resistors. Do this for both the main output and temp.

I'm pretty sure the 280z tach is pretty standard and the line that drives the tach wouldn't have any different output than the one coming out of a MSD system. You should find out what kind of signal the system requires. Call the company maybe? If the signal comming from the 280z is not compatable maybe I can work on something to make it work for you, but I would need to know exactly what the SAFC is expecting like the pulse width duration, and voltage levels.