Tony240ZT

Drop that PT Cruiser turbo setup in there..

Time to do a drive train swap into a 240Z

Pretty looking core. I was wondering the same thing about keeping close to the 450ft/sec. He just says not to use larger tubes than you need, "little drag is created in smooth tubes with gentle bends. Larger tubes will only add to the volume of the IC system, and that is not a good thing to do." Stuff we already knew, but ya I wish there was a number that would be great to try and stick to. ASFAK same would apply for any amount of turbos, it's the acculated velocity that counts. Anyone have any personal experience with high horse power setups? My little L6 making sub 300 numbers would probably be happy with 2"

If I could ever get my car on a lift I'd do it. I love the way the LSD diff in my `87 Supra Turbo feels in the turns. How do you shorten the half shafts? Sounds like it could be pretty expencive to do. I have the R200 CV adapters welded up and ready to go in the car I'm sure a similar adapter with a different bolt pattern could make it an easy bolt up.

Will the injectors sit perpendicular with the runner, or will you be angling them a bit? A good slant is the way to go, right?

WOW, 80mm! My 1jz-gte HKS intercooler only has like 2 1/4" inlet/outlets on it.. I was just looking through that book, "How to build your sohc nissan/datsun engine" and the 280zx turbo race cars had small diameter intercooler piping, I'd say 2 1/2.. Found the intercooler piping section in the Maximum Boost pages 61-62.. Says here that "I suspect this number (the airflow velocity in the tube that should not be exceeded) is around Mach .4, or about 450 feet per second, since drag, and therefore flow loss, increases significantly after this." Scottie may have made one of these excell spread sheets before, but I thought it'd be easy enough to make one of my own. Click here for the Excell xls file to calculate the numbers. If you want 550 to the wheels I think that's like 660 at the crank with the 3.149" pipe (80mm) that's only 305 ft/sec, 336ft/sec with 3", 484ft/sec with 2.5" which is over the 450ft/sec number.

The oil cooler on the 2nd gen is very large. The 3rd gen may be as well, but haven't seen one. Anyways, if you have the time/money to hook one up it would probably be a good investment. I think the fittings are very commen ones.

There's a local guy that ran one of these on his L6. The carb is very adaptable, but is a pretty large box. Now he's running it on the v8 in his Z, he swears its dah sh*t. I think he's always tweaking with it more than running with it though.

Ah, now I see how you're going to fit those twins under there. I bet that will hide the injectors from site making it look pretty clean under the hood. Looks like those ports are pretty well stretched. Gotta be lots of fun.

WOW, very pretty! Can't wait to see the rest of the car done in that color. How is the body work doing and how long before you start painting everything else? In some cases like this: The battery must be moved! As you can see the turbo down pipe would likely be touching the battery. Anyways, moving the battery to the back can often help your weight distribution. I've added a few pounds to the front of the car, so the battery move will help a little. I only have a turbo inline sixer, so I think the v8 is heavier. My car lowered about a 1/2" in the front after having the new engine in, and I have the engine as far back as it will go (behind the front sway bar even.)

ScottyMIZ has adapted the 280z efi system over to his Mazda B2000 pickup truck, so I'm sure he could probably help you out as far as wiring. You may even want to consider a 300ZX Z31 NA efi setup for your swap, but I'm not completely sure how well the system would deal with the lower displacement. The advantages would be ridding of the door type AFM to heated wire MAF, as well as more advanced computer, and even better gas mileage. The sensors required are simliar to that of the 280z efi swap with the difference being that you need the MAF, a `82-`83 280zx turbo distributor, and the coil igniter found in either the 280zxt, or 300zx.. Use the harness out of the 300zx as well as all sensor. I'm running a 280zx turbo efi setup on my l24 with a P90 head, larger injectors, and a t3/t4 turbo. If you decide to go turbo and you get your hands on a 280zxt harness/computer then let me know, as I can help with the details. Even if you don't go turbo you will enjoy the ease of efi, and fuel econemy. Get your hands on a Haynes manual for the model of car that you will be adapting the efi system from, the wiring diagrams definately help.

I've had a R200 in my car before, but took it out because it was pushing the drive shaft really hard into the tranny, and it melted the rear tranny seal.. I think my problem was that I didn't have the correct front diff mount.. I can't remember what I used, but I think I remember ordering a new R200 front mount for the car, was I suppose to stick with the R180 mount for my car.. This was in my `72 which isn't like the series I cars. It apears identical to my `73. Thank you for clearifying the spline difference between 280/240. I have the CV adapters welded on the 280 hardware, so I guess I'll be in search for a mate. Ross, I will definately be doing the 240sx rear disk setup in the near future. Thank you again for putting together the goodies for us z peeps..

Hey there, just saw this post since I'm painting my orange car, and thought I'd go through some of this old stuff.. That car looks very familiar Kinda looks like the one in my garage! I like the big phat tires stuck under there, may have to do that some day to get the power of the 7m-gte under control.

I have a 65mm throttle body and went with 2.5" pipes. I just have a 3 to 2.5 adapter right there. For as much power as I'm making 2 1/4 would probably be better suited, but it works well enough for me as is. 3" would just give you problems, more expencive, heavier, more lag, less space to work with.

I post to supras.com as well, I own an `87 supra turbo as well as the z cars. The supra is mostly stock, but comfy (heavy!). I'm running the engine with a Wolf3D system, fully programable ignition/fuel. I was able to use my stock cam possition sensor with only small mods. Currently stock internals, 550cc/min injectors, hefty fuel pump, HKS front mount intercooler from a 1jz-gte MA70 supra, TRD clutch kit. Will go with a MHG and ARP studs ASAP. I'm putting a LSD R200 in the back, and I have the CV adapters from modern motorsports to hold things together back there. I would love to know how it runs when you get to that point. Hopefully I'll be on the road before the end of March.

This is the header on my 7M, not the best angle, but it is SS and not exactly equal length. Yours looks very nice, I like the one you made much better. Anyways, mine is used, and has survived well. Hopefully it has many miles left in it. I want to make an intake manifold like the one you have. I see that your alternator is moved down a bit. Was this to get the throttle body pointed in a better angle? Know where I could get a good deal on MKIV coil packs? What size of turbo did you go with? I'm looking for a .68 a/r turbine housing for my P trim t4.. has a t04b compressor on it, but will upgrade when I can. Would be interested in other specs on your engine.

Sorry, didn't know how much you knew or didn't.. If I had the cash I'd give it a try. It does the same thing my little custom setup does. Wish I had my package ready for you guys, but it looks like I'm going to be doing some body work on the orange car for a little while instead of electronic stuff.

People have tried to get them to work with the stock efi system on z cars, but have had issues. In particular not getting the correct RPM input, but I don't understand because our ignition system is pretty standard. If you can adapt the system you MAY be able to get it to adapt a MAF to your car.. But this would take a LOT of trial and error, and a little bit of re-wiring, but only about 3 wires..

It almost looks like the turbo would be sitting right on the steering column. Is there any interferance? I've seen some VG30ET swaps where the column needed to be relocated a little.

If you can get the intake manifold off then it should be cake..

I'm running one of those sandwich plates on my L24et from perma cool. I think I'm running -8an lines to the oil cooler, and then on the return I have a T that goes off to a -3 AN SS braided line for oil feed to the turbo. I then took one of those turbo oil feed flanges and welded a 1/2" nut on top so that that I could easily get a fitting on there to put the AN feed line on. For the return I took my oil pan off, welded about an inch of one inch diameter pipe on, drilled it out. Then it was fairly easy to just get a hose and hook up the return off of the turbo into the oil pan. Put the return line above the oil line. The reason why the oil return line is so much larger than the feed is because only gravity is pulling it down to the pan, and the oil after going through the hot turbo gets a little frothy. You don't want any back up or the oil will cook, so put the oil return hole in the pan higher than the oil level usually sits. Here is the perm cool oil cooler sandwich plate page http://perma-cool.com/Catalog/Cat_page28.html

Impedance will match up fine. I have another set laying around if anyone is interested. They have 100K miles on them so could use a cleaning.. Sorry, don't have the harness plugs for them.

I think that flange is for the non internal waste gated turbos. I don't think it will bolt up to the back of the t3 on the z car. Consider the fact that the t3 on volvos, saabs, etc.. All have different ways they bolt up their down pipe to the turbo. Scotty had a flange made up that would bolt up to the back of our turbos and that's what I used to make my down pipe with.

I've seen other custom setups done like that before. No reason why it wouldn't work. Use some anti seaze on those bolts holding the back plate on.

Going to take a little bit of work to bolt up the T25 to your exhaust manifold. I guess if it's an AWESOME deal then don't pass it up, but still the t25 is way small, expecially with only a .42 a/r. It might be fine for only 10psi, but then again a stock t3 would be perfectly fine, and spool super fast with better flow. If the price is too hard to pass up I'd take the t04 compressor off and bolt it up to your t3 turbine housing. Bolt your t3 compressor up to the t25 and sell it on ebay. Oh, also keep the water cooled center section. Is this what you had in mind? How large is the compressor?