Tony240ZT

The silicone hose will strech/expand a little under boost if you've got a lot of it. Kind of like how old rubber brake lines will. Not something you would want to be putting your energy into. Keep with the smallest diameter pipe as you can for your horse power application. We talked about this in an easlier thread. I think the conclusion was that if you were making under 250hp then 2" pipe is the way. You will definately be making more. You'd have to find the thread, either 2 1/4" or 2 1/2" should be good for your setup. I'd show ya a picture of my setup, but it seems my image server is down!

That's a good one to book mark.

You need it to pass smog, so keep it around. I'd just relocate the thing. Tons of room if you take out your cruise control. Heheh, joking, don't do that.

I'm running an `85 300ZX water cooled Turbo on my L24ET setup, swapped the back plate over from a 280ZX Turbo (which has the waste gate door), along with the waste gate accuator. Both turbos have the same specs AFAIK. Actually any garrett T3 will swap over with ease. Ones with the T4 hybrid compressor may need to be spaced out a little to clear the ehxaust manifold.

I've detonated at 12psi with my L24, which has the stock 30 year old cast pistons and rings. I got out of it right away, richened up or turned down the timing and off I went. No piston damage. I'm sure my rings are pretty tired, but they are still hangen. I'm at 7.56:1 CR Seems all L series engines were over built by quite a bit, just gotta be on your toes, and watch those gauges.

But even like 12 pounds of boost is no fun.. I want to be in the high 12's in the 1/4! Un-metered air might be a good way to do it. Do you have a suggestion for making the un metered air be adjustable easily, maybe a small throttle body? Sounds kind of cluttering, but anything to keep from having to empty our pockets for a stand alone

I've gotten the Porsche 911 comment on my `72 before. Seems like ever since I put the body kit on and lowered it people don't know what it is.

Josh, there are lots of NA's but all of the distributors are gone for some reason. It's like the first thing people yank off of these cars. I guess people think they have failed on their cars, but it's likely something else. If you find one see if you can yank out the plate for me, thanks. I'd love to be able to write my own maps. I don't have experience burning eproms, but am willing to buy into the hardware if it'd be cheaper than having JWT do a job on this thing. I really think that we should study this stuff and come out with the info openly, or at least for a much better price than what JWT is offering. For that price you might as well go with SDS. I'm a computer programmer if you get to a point where you think you could use my help let me know. BTW, I'm running 11psi on the 280ZXT setup with the larger injectors and no intercooler without running lean or detonation on pump gas. I'd love to have an intercooler and pump it up some more. My CR is 7.56:1 with the L24ET, I think the L28ET is 7.4:1 or there abouts.

The only difference in the trigger wheel that I can see is that the #1 cylinder has an elongated square. I'm having a hard time finding a Z31T distributor to get the plate from, so I think I'll just mod my plate. My 280ZXT setup is running pretty well on my L24ET, but runs rich when I'm not under boost due to the larger Mustang SVO injectors. I'd still like to try out the swap though.

It's looking very nice. Thanks for the update. I have that same oil cap, and taylor spark plug wires on my car. What throttle body is that? and what oil plate adapter is that? Is it the stock auto tranny one? Wow, your fuel rail is long

I'm using it on my `72 w/7m-gte engine. Haven't driven the car yet, but the system was easy to install and I was able to get the engine running quickly. The hand held LCD is great for tuning in your map on the fly. I've got the new v4.0, Pete Sanders is running his L28ET with the Wolf3D v3.0 and loves it (2nd gen rx7 coils and igniters). It's priced half of what the Electromotive setup is, and I don't think electromotive has anything to justify the price difference. Electromotive include their own coil packs and igniters, but those things can be found pretty cheaply. I'm using 3 2nd gen rx7 coil igniters, the coils that are found mounted with the igniters are great coils, but I stuck with the ones that came with my engine, since they are great as well, and mount well on the engine. With an electric air bleed off valve you it can control your boost. Also has a couple aux outputs and inputs that can be used for anything you can put your mind to. It can drive most OEM idle valves. I've heard they are working on an upgrade that will have temperature maps for most OEM water temps, which is pretty cool. I'm using the VDO one that came with the kit. I had my magnetic type cam possition sensor pickup modified to work with the system, pretty easy just had to cut off a couple teeth off of the stock one. The system supports full sequential for a 4 cylinder setup, but for higher cylinder #'s you use the oposing cylinders as if they were the first group. Max # of cylinders it can drive is 12, and it can control staged injectors as well. If you have more than 4 cylinders you have wasted spark, where the ignition is fired on the exhaust stroke as well, but I don't see this being a problem unless you want like over 1000hp, or something crazy like that. You can still have a coil per cylinder though, which would help under a high boost/water injection/methonal injection/nos setup. For the install I picked up a few relays from Radio Shack, they have 30amp ones there that should work for anything that you need such as driving the fuel pump, fan(s), etc. Also picked up a cheap little fuse block. The instructions are pretty strait forward, and get to the point quick. Not a lot of detail, but I geuss they are working on that. I bought like the 2nd v4.0 released to the US, so I'm sure they've made minor updates since then.

I believe they are 4.11:1 Here is a auction that went for a complete IRS on ebay, but out of a non turbo (no LSD): http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1828371644&r=0&t=0 The car has a longer wheel base, but I think some of you know better than me and know how to fix this problem. The rear brakes are vented 11.5"x.07" single piston calipers, CV's, double wish bone, control arms are aluminum. There is a LSD sticker on the back of them like here on my car: and as you can see from this picture both tires are warn equally a lot. Everyone pressures me to smokem, I can't resist a crowd Yes, I need new tires badly. These were a set of Perelli P700's, think I'll go with a cheaper set of Yokohama AVS Intermediats. They seem to work well on the 240Z, and are priced right. Scottie may have some insite on how to drop in a complete IRS out of a wider car, since he did the corvette job.

I wish it was only as simple as loosening up some bolts. I've done that already. I'm going to have to take off the hood and long gate the holes more on the hood. I think there is enough meat there to play with. I think the hood sits to the passenger side more than the other. I'm kinda pissed, I traided a chromed Z valve cover for it. I think I should have saved the valve cover and bought a fiber glass hood.

Note, he said he adjusted them that way when cold. I've never measured the difference when cold and when warm, but that is probably about right. Like stated, its just a timing issue now.

Good looking setup, I'd like to see how you hook the wastegate up to the dp. Should be a fast car if you use the potential of that turbo.

I picked up this hood that was laying around in someones garage for a very long time and thought it would be nice for my `73. It doesn't have the vents like for a 280Z, so I'm assuming its for a 240z or 260z. I have the bolts loosened up and push the hood as far foward as it will go and when I try to close it the hood is hanging over the cowl like a whole nother 1/4 inch. Could this hood be for a different year? It wasn't made by Nissan, so maybe they were off. I'm thinking of just hacking up the mount a little bit, but if it was made for a different year maybe I can sell it to someone else with that year and buy myself a different hood. If anyone is interested in it let me know, its practicly new. I've had it mounted on my car for a month or so now, and before that it was all boxed up. Perfectly strait. Thanks.

WOW that's a lot of miles!! Maybe you didn't mean to put that 'k' at the end there Sounds like it might be running a little rich. This could be caused by the AFM spring loosening up over time. I'm not sure if having the head temp sensor unplugged would allow you to drive your car very well, but I guess there is a possibility of it not getting a good connection. I'd just take off the AFM black plastic cover (usually need a knife to break the seal), then loosen up the nut that holds the tention gear in place while holding the gear with your other hand so it doesn't wheel free, then give it a 1/8 to a 1/4 turn clock wise and see if that makes the car run better. I may be wrong, there are lots of other possibilities, like the smoke could be from warn valve guides that are hard until the car heats up. And then the ruff idle could be from something else, like just from being warn, stuffed up exhaust, stuffed up air filter, or fuel filter, or timing being off. The air temp sensor in the AFM could be off, or the o2 sensor could use a replacing. Just tons of things to consider. A fresh 3 way valve job on a high mileage engine can really make a difference. If you have to smog your car, did it pass last time without a problem? When was the last time you had it smogged? If you don't have to smog your car then maybe you should have a mechanic with one of those O2 sniffers adjust things properly for you. An Air/Fuel Ratio gauge can help you set your own car up, if your O2 sensor is in good shape. I just replaced the OEM O2 sensor in my car with a Bosch brand and this new one is much more touchy, and better at giving a reading. I like it a lot. Cost $35 with taxes at AutoZone.

Ouch, how long ago did that happen, and are the frame rails messed up? Are you going to fix it soon?

I see, I guess I was pulling power from there for my coil. Big mistake. Brian Little's page says it is power to the coil, but I guess just for the points is possible, too. Anyways, my 3 speed auto is not taking the power very well. Anyone know where a link to the starion 4 speed tranny upgrade is available? I think you just take the bell housing from a maxima, the complete tranny from the starion - bell housing, drive line from maxima, then have to shorten drive line a little. Does this sound right?

I think I've seen that before. If Nissan would have done that there probably be less Zs that were taken by rust, and more that were taken out by trees, power polls, etc. I've seen so many images of the 240Z in a wind tunnel like that, so why weren't they more aerodynamic?!

Anyone have pics of the Cartech one, is it setup to bolt on a commen external waste gate? What turbo flange is on it? Why doesn't someone like MSA start mass producing these things and selling them for like $200? How much more expencive could a turbo header cost to make over a NA one? I'd think less since there is less metal. I can see having an external waste gate option being more. Is the main reason because people might want different sized flanges for the different turbos. I think a t3 flange would be just fine for the masses, making room for a hybrid compressor.

The SS stuff sounds tempting, but I'd actually be more interested in something not so pretty and at a good price.

I saw the sports compact article. I think I still have it laying around. It's been a while since I've read it, but what I remember is that this guys car just wasn't setup right. They said the transition between the two just wasn't correct, very un-natural, and hard to drive. The idea sounds kind of nice on paper, low end boosted torque combined with high end more efficient turbo boost, but as you know if something sounds too good to be true it usually is If you want torque and a good amount of boost I'd go with the GN engine. It's a good sized V6 and has great potential. A friend of mine has a GN and we were comparing my Supra Turbo to it. We both set our cars to 10 pounds of boost, and we both have about the same mods. The GN had tons more torque and was much more responsive, even with a slightly larger turbo. You could always turbo a v8, but I think the GN package is just proven so well. One idea to consider about torque and light Z cars: traction. Turbo lag can be a good thing for us since traction isn't such an issue without gobs of low end torque. The lagged power gets the car moving before boost comes on and gets traction easier.

There are 2 bolts on the hood latch, located on the hood, if you loosen them you can slide it foward. Just takes a 10mm wrench or socket, could be 12mm.. anyways pretty strait foward can't mess anything up if you do it yourself.

My `72 will do the same thing. It's gotta be from flex. You can adjust the latch forward a little to have more meat engaged. Wish I knew what it was called, but anyways I think this is why people install supports from the firewall to the shock towers.