Tony240ZT

Where can you get such a deal on 720cc/min injectors? All you have to do is just make a custom rail, and bolt it down so it pushes the injectors into place and makes a seal on the O-Rings. A custom intake manifold shouldn't be needed. Check out my For Sale link on my web page for a pretty cool J-Spec intake manifold.

So, when's the twin setup going to be running? We've been waiting so long to hear about it I'm sure it will be awesome.

Very cool, may want to note if they have barbed fitting or O-Ringed press in fitting.. I have a set of the Supra turbo ones and Mercedes, I'll get some pictures real quick. Mercedes 450SEL: Supra Turbo:

I have a stock 280ZX Turbo that I have fully rebuilt, it looks like new. I'm trying to sell it for $240 + shipping. Your best bet really is the junk yard. If you can find a car that has been in an accedent, where it looks like the car was running up until that point then that's probably an okay engine to stick into your car. If you want a like new engine then just refresh the timing gear, bearings, rings, seals, do a valve job, replace retainers, ect.. Sure you can do bolt ons around your block, but your long block wasn't designed for the flow characteristics of forced induction. Check out the haynes manual on how to test the individual components of the EFI system, and if you test everything before you walk out of the junk yard and find that it is all good, then you are getting a great deal.

`87-`92 Toyota Supra Turbo has 440cc/min injectors I have a set if someone is interested, they are low impedence, non turbos have like 370cc/min MKIV Supra Turbo's have 550cc/min and non turbos have 440cc/min Just had to add these into the list.

I adapted an `83 L28ET setup to my L24, I didn't use the air bypass stuff, and I don't have EGR. So I was wondering since in the turbo setup the TPS only seems to care if the throttle body is closed (it only has two wires and terminals in the TPS plug to sensor only when it's closed). Is it necessary to even have a TPS with my setup? If so, for what reason? I know my `81 NA won't rev over 2500rpm if I have the TPS unplugged, but I don't think this is the case for the turbo cars. Thanks.

Anyone remember Hoover's red G noze beast? He had a custom forged crank, forged rods/pistons, lots of porting, custom cast intake manifold, custom turbo header, stand alone engine management, custom ground cam, larger valves. He had Rebello build it all for him, must of had big bucks to do that. He was at one time making 500rwhp with the prepped L series block. I would bet that James Thagard will be making some awesome numbers as soon as his new twin turbo setup is finished. Sun Belt built his engine, another Nissan guru group. He, too, has a custom crank, forged rods/pistons. Both guys are 3.0-3.2L stretchers. I think it would be cool to say you have "the ultimate L series engine", but honestly the 1/4 mile times and such don't care what engine got you from point A to B in a period of time. I think if you can do the job and have some money in your pocket after you're done, that's the way to do it. After saying that, I'd like to make the most power a L24 block has ever made in my `73

I should have my Wolf in hand by next week and I'll fill you in on the new things v4.0 has. Data loggin is there, you can hook a PC up to the system to help visualize things better than with the hand held controler. They suggest using a PC to get things started. Wolf has an external memory card that is standard with the kit. It allows you to switch between two totally different setting (main memory, and this external memory card). You can also save as many different map settings as you'd like to your pc, and buy more memory cards.

Very nice setup. I'd love to get my hands on a NPR IC for a good price. Sounds like you'll have no problems hitting that 300hp mark, and no reason why you can't hit 350hp. I feel outa place here, seems like all of the action is going on in florida, what's up with that? I would have loved to have dropped a 2jz-gte in. I actually came VERY close, if it weren't for the fact that check cards don't allow you to take out more than $1,000 a day then I'd have one in my garage. I got a call the next day after ordering, and I just thought to myself $2,900 for the engine, not including the tranny, elctronics, IC. Just couldn't justify it in my mind, so I didn't call back. I ordered the 7m-gte the next day locally, for less than $900 dropped into my garage, $200 for a tranny, and now I have a LOT of money for mods. Keep us updated on the progress of your engine setup. I get the feeling that it has a lot more potential than you know.

Is it just me, or is their system pretty dang expencive? I priced out a complete setup for my L28ET with them and it ended up being around $3,300 shipping. I ended up getting a Wolf3D v4.0 for around $1,500 complete and shipped for my 7m-gte. Anyone else had a price quote done for the new Electromotive setup? It looks real nice, good enough for show, but the billet, anodized aluminum isn't a necesity. Plus where's the built in boost controler, hand heald LCD display with key pad for real time data/mods, key code security system? If anyone can help me understand this price difference please fill me in. I understand that the coil packs are included with the TEC3, and they are an option with the Wolf3D, but most multi coil pack systems out there in OEM applications can be had cheaply and perform very well.

Can't wait to see pics of the headers, and intake setup.

Thanks, glad you like orange Can't say it's my favorite color, but this car doesn't get keyed like the `72 does. These are some parts I had left over from thinking about doing a stroked turbo setup in my `72. I ended up buying a Toyota 7m-gte for the `72 for the DOHC and it's already 3.0L. I figured if the `73 car will keep up with, or be faster than my `87 Supra Turbo I'll sell off the Supra and make this car my daily driver. Supra parts are a bit more expencive, along with insurance, registration, and I have to smog the car every 2 years. What engine management system are running? Have you ran the engine with the engine management system yet? What kind of performance are you looking to get out of your car? I see the hole for the BOV what type are you going to be installing? I'm probably going to put on one of those Bosche ones on. What size of injectors are you running? I'd love to see more info about your car up on your web page. My 7m-gte will be managed by Wolf3D v4.0, as soon as I can get my hands on a unit. I have a 5 speed tranny, with a TRD clutch, an Accel fuel pump, and 550cc/min injectors will feed the hungry engine. Hope to install ARP head studs/metal head gasket, and upgrade the stock turbo before the end of this year.

Now that I have my L24ET setup running, I was wondering if there was a way to see if all of the sensors are working with the ecu correctly. I know in the 280ZX Turbo there is a dash light for "Sensor" I think this is for the o2 sensor in particular. Is there a easy way to read this kind of error message, or have a light turn on if something is wrong? What other error info can the ECU provide about sensors? Has anyone found out how the o2 sensor works with the system. I know with some systems it varries the voltage it allows to pass through, and each amount tells the ECU to either richen or lean out the mixture. I'd like to get things setup correctly so that the o2 sensor is telling the ecu to do little adjusting. I'm assuming this would be the best way to have things running. Thanks for any info, and the the o2 sensor is a single wire, and the ecu system is off of a `83 280ZX Turbo

I have no idea if the knock sensor I have off of this `83 280ZX Turbo is good or not. It doesn't read any resistance when I test between the two terminals. Is this normal? Is there a way to test it? If I just leave it unplugged is this the same as having no knocking or the same as having constant knocking?

Got my `83 L28ET efi setup running on my L24ET today. I've got some things to finish up before I can drive it around, but it idles and revs well. I found that the Air Flow Meter was set to make the car run way too rich to begin with, so I loosened up the bypass screw, and messed around with the tention of the spring. Over near the battery is a green relay with a brown wire, this needs to be hooked up to the possitive side of the battery, also there is a green wire that needs to be hooked up there as well. If you cut off the green relay then the black with wite wires need to be put to the possitive side. There is a plug that used to plug into the chassi harness with 6 terminals. You will need trace the wires in your book to make sure they are the correct ones to use. There is a black one that should be grounded, a Yellow one that needs power while cranking and while on, there is also a yellow white wire that goes over to the coil ecu signal amp. The black white wire that plugs into the coil ecu signal amp needs power, and the amp gets ground by being bolted down to the chassi (this was my mistake). Let me know if you have any other questions. Again I used a setup off of a `83 280ZX Turbo, which has the crank angle built into the distro. I noticed my ecu light turns off when the car is turned on, I don't know if this is correct.

If the AFM door was stuck wide open then that was probably the majority of your problem. I'd love to see how you mounted your AFM.

Gotta love that Mercedes throttle body. Sure is a lot of room in that area without the distro. Just got my L24ET running today, have to mess with the mixture a little. Hope to install an IC on mine soon, not sure if my electric fan gives me the room. Looken good can't wait to see some figures.

Anyone have a picture of a set of engine mounts they've made to drop a toyota 7m-gte into their early Z car?

There's no doubt the miss matched injectors will make the car run ruff, and some reman's don't particlize the fuel properly and all of the fuel doesn't get burned properly. I think $800 is a great deal for the running car. The air flow meter can be adjusted to compensate for the richness by tightening up the pendulum spring slightly. The spring loosens up over the years. If you buy the car you can drop in some slightly larger injectors anyways for more performance. Might as well, it will probably cost the same for a used set of Mercedes 450SEL injectors as it will 280ZXT ones. I'd spend the $20 an injector to have them cleaned by RC. Once you stick them in you then need to mess around with your AFM to get things running smoothly. Having a valve job done to the car will probably help it run a lot better as well. You can get a gasket set for a 280zx non turbo for less money because the kit doesn't include the copper gaskets for the turbo. That is, if you believe those gaskets are in okay shape. I think I paid $55 for a Felpro gasket kit.

Are you running that hose all the way from the back to the front, or are you going to be using some hard line has well? I would prefer to use some hard line in my setup. I'm just not sure how to go from hard line to an AN fitting. Can you slide some sort of fitting that will fit up with the AN fittings, flare the line and then just easily tie them together? Where do I pick up a peice of hardline that would be long enough? Thanks.

They are for a L-Jetronic system, CIS would be a job to adapt to a z car I think they are 420cc/min?? I have a used set, and plan on dropping them in.

You can easily bolt up a KA24 TPS (potentiameter type) if you shorten the TPS output shaft of the Mercedes TB by about a 1/4 inch. I think you will have the same problem as me in that the TPS will now turn the oposite way as expected, and I'm sure there is an easy way around this, and maybe it is programable into the stand alone engine management system. I picked off a cable type swivle linkage off of a Z31 throttle body, and just placed it on the side and tap welded it on where I wanted it to be. The Mercedes TB does come with a ball joint that could be used in some way to use the existing mechanical linkage, but I shaved my intake manifold linkage towers off, and I think it'll just be easier this way. There is a large PVC type hole that will need to be plugged. Here is a small web site I made about the TB a while back, James Thagard used to run one on his car before he went to the custom intake manifold: http://www.zhome.com/~aktar/zcar/engine/mtb.html

As you can see in my pic that I posted earlier a plate is not necessary. Just need to bring the holes towards the center with a round file.

Coming soon to my `72 240Z's engine bay Those damn piggy back computers can get pricy, I'm dropping in a Wolf3D EMS, they were able to machine my Cam Possition Sensor to work with the system. The 2nd Gen RX7 injectors are 550cc/min, the low impendence ones are hard to find, but they are out there. You definately don't need to spend big $$$ to get them and get a fuel rail made up. I'd say $200 for injectors and $120 for the rail + a few beans for AN fittings and such. I can get an AFPR for under $100, so $900 is a bit out there!?? Hopefully I'll get some engine mounts made up this weekend, and then take mesurements on my drive shaft. I already have the parts to paste together. I'll keep you posted.

Saw the post about the Mercedes throttle body. I don't have my car running yet, but I have it installed on my L24ET setup. I've ported out my intake manifold, wasn't sure that it would stretch that far, but it made it. The TPS can be bolted on if you shorten the shaft a little bit, but it'll be reversed. To fix this you'll need to swap some wires around, and if you're using a turbo wiring harness you'll need to find a NA plug with all three wires/plug terminals so that you can swap easily. I had to bring in the mounting holes towards the center, and weld on a throttle linkage. If you have the time to fabricate these small things I'd say it's worth the trouble. Wish I had some horse power numbers for you, but I think my ECU that I picked up from the junk yard is bad. I have another one that I picked up because I knew someone would be interested in it. I think you can get them off of 450SL (Old Mercedes with a fuel injected V8). If you're interested in buying the one I have I'll bead blast it for ya, and ship it for $55, it includes the mercedes TPS and harness plug.