Tony240ZT

Get the 1 volt type, not the 5 volt..

I don't know why I didn't think of that myself. That might solve the problem I've been having where it seems to run crappy except under full boost. The only time it really needs to be lean is when I'm under a lot of load. I wish I had an electrical vacuum switch of some sort. Is there a such thing out there? A switch that would switch at a set amount of vacuum or presure?

I've never seen or heard of any road side testing here in CA. I guess I've had good luck, the `87 Surpa Turbo is usually running a test pipe, and block offs for the EGR. As for my `72 with the 7m-gte, and the `73 with the L24ET (they'd go wtf is this mutant?) I'd rather not have to go through the dmv stuff. My japanese low milage imported engine didn't come with emissions, and I'd rather not pay to have to clutter up my engine compartment. It'll be running cleaner than the L24 with SU's on it, that's for sure, with the crank fire sequential FI system. Even if I wasn't running EFI and had a V8 with a carb I'd probably be running cleaner than some of these people that don't know how to tune their SU's, or just have a warn set.

The polished intake manifold and valve covers look very nice. Very clean install! What's left to do before the car is on the road?

Awesome. I'd love to see a picture of how your welding goes on the drive shaft. You're going to have to put some phat tires on the back of that thing now

Good idea, I'll look around for that type, or maybe I can get something to convert the one I have into that type.

Okay guys, nuff talkin about it, time to prove I'm not all talk. Turns out the Yellow/Red wire is the one that sends the signal to the ECU. I don't have my notes in front of me right now, but the voltage starts out at around 8.2V and then falls off nearing 0 V.. I haven't had a mounting case for my air/fuel gauge, so I thought that would be a good thing to take care of. I've never messed around with fiberglass before and thought it would be fun to make a little gauge pod that I could then install the tuning hardware. Currently have a single potentia meter with an on/off switch that I bought from radio shack. Used the on/off switch part to power a small light. Plan on having two nobs (that's why I have two lights), one for leaning things out and one for richening. I couldn't think of an easy way to put them into one nob. I'm still working on the amount of resistance needed. I picked up a 5K ohm one and it hardly changes a thing. It drops the voltage only about .2 volts, so I'll be trying out a larger one when radio shack opens back up. Thinking of running my cable down into the defrost air duct back there, if anyone else has a better idea let me know. In the picture the car is cold and that's why it's running to the lean side, after warmed up it runs rich, which has been costing me a lot for gas. I figure installing the lean nob and setting it up correctly should save me a lot in gas money. After dropping in the Mercedes 450SL injectors I can't adjust my AFM to run lean enough, and I get only around 9-10mpg!!! Not to mention I smell of raw gas after getting out of the car after a drive. I'd be interested in other people who have made custom gauge pods.

You're doing a very clean restore. Looks like a lot of fun to me. Who did the gauge faces for you? They turned out looking really nice. I expecially like the tach. What color is the body going to be? It's hard to tell for the pictures. Looks like it might be a redish orange, or full on red. Did you polish out the valve cover or did you have it chrome plated?

There isn't much metal there. I went in a little side ways with the 1/4" NPT drill and tap to get a little more meat. I too am running a turbo setup, and ran into the same problem. I just left the PVC on the side of the crank open to vent.

5spd will bolt right in, no problems. Tank is totally different. Get one from a `75 280Z, or move your fuel pickup to where the drain plug is, or use a small tank to feed off of. Check out the wiring diagram in the haynes manual, trace the wires that get plugged in under the dash, and there are a couple wires that go over to the passenger side of the car (near the battery) that need + power given to them.

If you're still thinking about going turbo I can help with wiring. I've done the swap into my `73. I haven't run the car down the 1/4mile yet, but am expecting mid 13's, and it's just a little L24 with a P90 head on it. I'm thinking of putting together a detailed PC CD-ROM with information, pictures and possibly videos and selling them cheaply. Would also contain info on getting more horse power out of your turbo L6. Think people would be interested? You might be surprised that it is easier to tune and keep in tune a FI setup than carbs. Being in the high 12's in the 1/4 are possible with no internal engine mods with a well setup stock turbo system.

Start accumlating some parts, such as a turbo exhaust manifold, a t3 turbo charger, oil fittings and lines, a turbo oil pan (or you can weld a return hole on your stock one), you may want to go with the turbo oil pump, a oil cooler would be good (get an Earl's sandwich plate to hookup the lines, PermaCool has one too. 280ZXTurbos with auto trannies have the adapters). You will need to fabricate a down pipe, or go with the stainless steel one that ScottieGNZ has if he still has one. You will want to go with at least the 280ZX Turbo injectors. Since you're going cheap you can stick with your stock long block, instake manifold, and throttle body. I would suggest at least getting a throttle body off of a 300ZX (Z31) which is 5mm larger, and less cluttered with vacuum hoses. I would suggest getting an Air/Fuel meter gauge to monitor your mixture, and a boost gauge if you plan to mess around with that. You need to make it so that your distributor doesn't advance under higher rpms. You can do this by removing the vacuum advance, and the internal weights. Retard your timing quite a bit. Using your stock head, and NA engine management is not the most ideal setup for turbo applications, but will work for a cheap setup. It will be the largest increase in power that you can do for under $400. If you rebuild your turbo yourself, know how to do a bit of welding and fabricating it is possible you could do it for less.

I was thinking about how the SDS has that adjustable nob for lean/richness. I'm assuming it's a potentia meter adding resistance to the wire that tells the computer how much fuel to supply the engine. Couldn't the same idea be used with the stock 280ZX Turbo AFM. I know when you unplug the AFM the car runs as rich as possible, and this would be a situation where there is unlimited resistance between two wires, but which ones? If I were to tap into the wire that is sending the signal back to the ecu, put an adjustable potentiameter in there couldn't I richen the mixture? I could even set the AFM to initially run lean, then dial my POT to make the car run stoich, that way I have adjustment on both sides of the spectrum. Now, I may be getting old and lazy because I don't want to get out of my car and adjust it in the engine compartment, but really, I think that having this sort of adjustment in the cabin could be usefull. Let me know what you guys think, and if you know which wire is the sending wire for the AFM possition.

Scotty, I'm getting a turbo AFM sent out to me and it should be here sometime this week, let me know if you are interested. Did you mess with that bypass screw? I'm guessing the AFM has some built in resistance that it shouldn't have. Could try rubbing the surfaces and see if that helps. I also have a `85 300ZX Turbo AFM, and ECU. I know you don't want to put anymore money into the truck, but keep it in mind for later down the road. I don't think I'll be using the 300ZXT stuff because of the lack of adjustability in the AFM.

Unbolt the EGR and plug up the holes. Won't hurt anything, just emissions. I guess a quick over view of what the EGR system actually does is inject hot exhaust so that there is a more complete burn. Fuel that is ignited real close to the heat absobers (pistons, side walls, head) in the combustion chamber cools off too quickly to get burned well, the hot air helps rid of that. The amount of fuel that is unburned is not a great deal, and in no way hurts performance. I believe the heat added actually takes away performance, but also, not very much. On my `73 240Z with 280ZX Turbo electronics/turbo charger, I didn't use that vacuum box at all. My intake manifold doesn't have an EGR port, and I don't use the idle control selonoid. The car idles just fine with a crack of the throttle body, it even starts right up in the morning with no problem.

Thanks Scotty, seriously 225hp would be nice in this car since it doesn't have upgraded brakes or suspention. It's like my beater turbo z, chipped paint, primer, unmatched hood, bent antena. At least it drives strait and doesn't have any rust. As for the `72 with the toyota engine something would have to be very wrong with it if that's all I was getting out of it. Thinking of selling my `87 Supra Turbo, so the `73 orange car has to be at least as quick as the supra was. There were some fast Hondas out here in Bakersfield, CA for the Battle of Import at Famoso drag strip. I'll post some pictures of the event, ran into our friend SSS510 who was running out there, but had traction issues (too much power) Most all of the modified cars were running turbos, made me want to crank up the boost.

Bolted in the Mercedes injectors, was surprised that these are a direct bolt in after swaping over the hardware from the stock injectors. The smaller harness plugs are more attractive. Haven't started the car up with them yet, but if they work for me I have a set of 280ZX Turbo injectors for sale. They worked great for me. 5 of them are black reman injectors and 1 of them is an OEM one. They had no problem running together.

No way around it, some how air presure is excaping the combustion chambers either through the crank case or through the head. I'm not sure that this means that you have a problem that is hurting performance, but after things are back together it'd be worth doing a compression check/leak down test.

They look nice.. The only Starion ones I've seen were black leather ones. I thought they'd be too wide. Did you have any problems fitting them in? Are they power seets? If so, was it hard to hook up the controls?

I have a L24 short block in my `73, with a P90 head, CR is around 7.56:1, `83 280ZX Turbo electronics, stock T3 turbo, 2 1/2" DP & exhaust, K&N type intake filter, slightly upgraded ignition system, 65mm throttle body/ported intake (non EGR). Right now I'm not running an intercooler, I have a starion one laying around, but have this one that is smaller and was wondering if it might work for my goals: 2" inlet/oulet, core deminsions 8 1/2" X 7" X 4" thick. I have a set of the Mercedese 370cc/min injectors that I will be dropping in, and upgrading the fuel pump to a beefy bosch one. Are there equations out there that can help me figure out how much cfm I will have to be flowing to make around 200hp, about how much boost that will take, how much fuel I will need to do it, and how effecient the intercooler has to be? Are there equations that would help me figure out how hard I could push my setup without pre ignition, or is it too complex to figure out? I'm not sure how much hp I'm making right now, but the car definately feels much stronger than it did with the E88 head and SUs w/SM needles I'm running stock boost (7#'s), and I'm going to guestimate I'm making close to 170hp. Nothing REALLY exciting, but it's an upgrade non the less. I would love to see this car running mid 13 second 1/4 mile times with the stock turbo. The car weighs around 2500 loaded and with me. Kind of off topic, but does anyone know the best 1/4mile time a L24 has done, in any form of aspiration?

1jz-gte is very similar to the 2jz-gte, just smaller displacement. Both engines are very well known for being very strong. The 1jz was offered in the 91-92 Supra's in japan only with the old MA70 body style (MKIII), same that had the 7m-gte's. The 1JZ-GTE fixed the blown head gasket problem, and has a head that was designed by yamaha to allow for higher rpms and better flow. The 1JZ-GTE had more boost stock than the 7M-GTE, but with a couple upgrades to the 7M you will find that the two are very comparable engines performance wise.

Not sure exactly on the fuel presure, get an air/fuel ratio meter and see how the car is running under boost, this will allow you to adjust to your needs. It is possible that you are seeing the presure drop because of lack of power to the fuel pump. Look at your voltage/amperage when under boost. Is the AFPR an OEM part off of some car? I would like to find one cheaply. Also, does the pump come off of a car that I might find in the yard? I know that BMW's have Bosch pumps, but I'm not sure wich one would be good for say around 250hp or so.

Connection is different, just have to get the toyota injector harness plugs, patch them in. Impedence is the same. I believe the injectors are 440cc/min though. They are O-Ringed injectors and the 300ZXT injectors have barbbed fittings. I'm not sure, but you may need to have fuel rails made up to get a good seal. You could try putting the 5/16" hose on the end of them and then clamping it down, but this is not the best way, and may leak. Good luck on adjusting the AFM to accomodate the larger injectors, I have heard from others that the 300ZXT AFM doesn't allow for very much change in injector sizing, and that the only way to get the needed adjustment was to have the computer reprogrammed to know about the larger injectors. You won't see the potential of these injectors unless you are intercooled, and or having water/alchohol injection. A larger compressor would definately help. I'd suggest getting an adjustable fuel presure regulator, and possibly upgrading your fuel pump. I have a set of the 7m-gte 440cc/min low impedance injectors that came off of my 30K miles JDM engine, because I upgraded to 550cc/min. If anyone is interested, they have the harness plugs, and I will sell for $130 for the set.

I'd say the engine bay in the Z is larger, but there are a lot more electronics in the engine bay of the Supra. People that are worry about the way their engine bay looks when doing a custom setup will try to make things less cluttered in order to have a cleaner look. For instance, I have as much electronic stuff as I can inside the car hidden away, such as relays, electronic boost controler, fuse block, coil igniters. The Supra also has more emissions control hardware, it has a diagnostic plug in port, ABS, electronicly controled suspention, cruise control. Just get the engine out of the supra after unplugging the engine harness, drop into Z, get it lined up and then start making your engine mounts. You will need to trace wires in a wiring diagram to see how you can integrate the engine wiring harness with the car. Just stick that engine as far back and as low as you can get it. Then get a drive line, exhaust, intercooler piping made up for it. I suggest not going with the stock intercooler as it has quite a bit of pressure drop at low boost levels. Pick up the Jags That Run book, it can help out quite a lot in any kind of engine swap into an early Z.

Hehe, thanks Len. Took it out on the road, played with the AFM a bit and the car is running very strong. I'll get some 1/4mile times and horse power estimates in the near future if I can get my hands on a G Tech. Anyone know how hard a L24 can be pushed, with 8mm bolts? I'd be happy with 220hp with an intercooler and upgraded injectors. I have a set of 370cc/min injectors and a starion intercooler that I will be dropping in.