Tony240ZT

I don't have gas hooked up to my MIG, but haven't noticed any difference between welding on non aluminized and aluminized steel. The weld will rust of not covered.

Here are some pictures that I took at the show http://www.zhome.com/~aktar/msa/ Yeah, I'll admit a dirty set of SU's on an L6 don't do much for me anymore.

I just got back from the show. Lots of great cars, got some good pictures. I didn't get there until around noon and wasn't too active. Took my `73 240Z piece with the L24ET, which ran really strong. Saw lots of v8 hybrids, no RB engine swaps though. There was a Skyline with a RB26DETT, and a Silvia converted 240SX. Let me know if you saw my car. I'll post a picture below. It had a grey primered hood. A white Z32, red Z32, and a maroon Z31 all headed north with me on I5. Hopefully next year I'll have my `72 all together so I won't feel like I have such an ugly duckling.

Swapping to a Z31 300ZX wiring harness, computer, sensors will allow for this. There are a hand full of people who have done the swap and who are happy with the results. I have the parts in hand, but am not sure if I'm going to be doing the swap. My current setup is off of a `83 280ZX Turbo, and the Z31 parts I have are off of a `85 300ZX Turbo. If you find more info on the Z31 stuff swap pass it on.

Geeze! Everyone trying to make their cars look like mine. Looks like I'm going to have try something else to be more unique Looks good Scotty Anyone used this body kit along with flares? Any ideas on how you could make it look right? I really want to do flares in the back of my `72, but not sure it will look right.

My web page has a bit of wiring: http://www.zhome.com/~aktar/zcar/73/turbofi/ The plug with the yellow, and yellow white wires has 2 sets, and one of the sets is not used by the ECU.. I need to draw a picture of how to differ from the two sets. It would help you a lot if you got a 280ZX haynes book. What I did was photo copy the chassis wiring diagram, then taped them together. Keep in mind that the H2O sensors are not used by the ECU.. I didn't use the EGR, or the air bypass wires. Also, I did not use the fuel pump modulating system, and just hooked the fuel pump to come on while cranking and while in the on possition.

850cc/min!!!! Man have you already gone big single? Thought you had a lot of other things that you'd have to do before you started going that large.. Cool to hear about the AEM deal. The Wolf3D is made by AEM, but doesn't have multiple O2 or support for knock sensors, but I think it is more flexable. I will have to compare stats on the two. What clutch are you using? Do you plan on going with a big single turbo? If so what exhaust manifold, and what size turbo, and what size waste gate? What size are the stock injectors? I'd think that 550cc/min with an adjustable fpr would get you pretty far, probably good enough for the stock twin setup. Whelp, think I found a job today, so I'll be putting money away for a single T4 for my 7m-gte. Not sure if my TRD clutch will hold long with it though, which is sad since its bran new. Still have a couple other things to do first, like finish up the CV swap, swap in a LSD, and larger brakes. A intercooler for the `73 w/L24ET would be nice too. If I were you I'd be dumping all that $$$ into that light Z car.. The supra is just way too heavy, and I know you want to see 10's

JT is correct. The one sensor with the short pig tail wire sticking out is the thermotine switch for the fan that blows on the fuel injectors, and the other one is the temp senosr for the gauge. These do not effect the computer in any way. Scotty used a non turbo efi system on his b2000, although it was turboed.. The non turbo system is much more easily adapted to a different car because of the fact that it uses the negative side of the coil as a trigger for the fuel injectors, rather than a crank angle sensor setup. This means that it could be adapted to a 4 cylinder engine, or even a 8 cylinder engine very easily. The non turbo setup does use an H2O sensor. Check that your turbo spins freely, that you don't have vacuum leaks (like a leaky BOV), check that you have your boost controler installed correctly (so that it isn't acting as a one way check valve, rather a bleed off system). Also, check your timing, and it may even be worth checking that your cam timing is correct. Your chain could have slipped if your tentioner isn't working correctly, or if your chain has streched a bunch, or if you have shaved your head a bunch without raising the cam towers.

Maybe you could mate a different tranny up to the engine, to make it rear wheel drive only.. I mean why not just fab up a way to bolt in a T5 tranny using a modified bell housing? The stock engine mounts would have to go, and new ones would have to be fabbed some how. It might be hard to fab the mounts because the turbos may be in the way, but with the accesories out of the way it may give room. By the way guys, I think I have my `95 3000GT sold finally. My mistake was to buy a base model when everyone out in the world considering buying a 3000GT at this point wants a VR4 because the prices have dropped drastricly. 2 1/2" years ago I bought my 50K mile 3000GT for $17K and now I'm selling for $9,900 with only 10K miles put on the car! I should have invested in a 3rd gen RX7, or a MKIV Supra. I'm unhappy but I guess if I would have held onto the car much longer I would have lost even more money.. SO, these engines can probably be had for cheap. Buy a whole `90 3000GT VR4 with a busted tranny, or blown head gasket, freshen up the engine stick it in your Z, then part out the car. You will probably end up making money (almost like someone paid you to install the engine in your car). Things to consider, the timing belt should be changed every 60K miles. These engines are a pain in the ass to do maintenence on. To change the timing chain you have to undo the engine mount. To change the back spark plugs you have to take off the intake manifold! Not a fun engine to work on, but has great potential. Because of the AWD in those cars they can really hook up well. They are heavy bastards though.

Can someone tell me how much the Apex deal is? Does anyone know how to wire one into the 280ZX Turbo wiring harness? What exactly does it modify? Is it voltage, or resistance at given RPMs? Has anyone been able to make a lot more horse power from being able to tune in the stock system better, or should you only expect minor horse power differences? I think I'll probably just buy another wiring harness for my Wolf3D and install it into my `73, swapping back and forth between the `72 - `73, but would be nice to not have to worry about it, and if I ever wanted to sell the car I would have to buy another Wolf3D system, so that wouldn't be any fun.

What kind of tool is the best to cut into sheet metal like that? Any tricks to keeping it really strait? Can't wait to see what you end up doing with the front. Do you think you will be making a scoop by hand (fiber glass?), or will you finish it off with more of that SS vent stuff?

Just to back up RatedZ's words, I have the same the gauge installed and working on my L24ET using the same O2 sensor. It has done great things for me while setting up my car. Where do you think you'll be mounting yours?

I'd like a hood, rear hatch, and possibly fenders. The door panels sound tempting too. Would be cool to get the door pannels and do a mix of carbon fiber and vynal/leather. The body stuff would be to loose weight, while interior parts would be for looks.

I don't know that I can be of much help. I've run fuel injection setups in cars where I used the stock carb pick up where I could get down to a 1/8th of a tank and then would have to fill up if I wanted to run strong around corners. With my drain hole pickup I only need like a 1/2 gallon of fuel to run. Could your filter before the pump be too restrictive? You might want to consider using a screen type filter there. Also, the manufacture of the fuel pump should have suggested ways of mounting, follow them. Follow the way your pump was installed in the car it came out of if you pulled it out of another car. You may find that this is a pump problem that is hard to explain unless you just swap it out. There are no reasons that suggest you should have a problem.

Both heads are great for turboing.. If you want a low compression head for an NA motor then the P90 is probably your best bet only because it will allow you to run a more wild cam without the chance of bleading down, and it is said that the P90A bleeds down at RPMs over 6500, and with wild cams with super strong valve springs. In a turbo setup where you don't run wild cams, and the need for super strong springs isn't there either head is just fine. The P90A doesn't require adjusting and is super quiet, so if you know that your P90A doesn't have any bad lifters then I'd stick with it.

I'm liking the light blue car, with the matching RB engine trim. Interesting the way they welded up the intercooler piping. Had to be a lot of work welding each peice in every 2" or so. Do you think that is a NPR intercooler polished out and slightly modified on that white car? Looks nice. No more nice RB engine swaps please, you're making want to sell my 7m-gte and pick up a rb26dett I'm thinking of making a fiber glass cover to go over my 2 valve covers, kinda like the way the RB engine and the 2JZ engines are. I think it looks real nice, then paint it the same color as the car. Are those lizards tasty? They look so plump! I could just imagine it in a frying pan with a bunch of butter.. mmmmm..

I run 10 pounds all day long on 91 octane on my L24ET, but my compression ratio is only 7.56:1 Get that electric fan installed in there, and mount that intercooler, then do some more supporting mods to add a few more pounds. Then you'll have this grin that will be hard to wipe off.

I have a working 280zx turbo air flow meter. I don't have another distributor drive gear though. Sucks that they are different huh? Email me and let me know how much the AFM is worth to you, and if you'd like for me to bead blast the case. I did have to pay for it at one point so it is worth its value to me.

Easy bolt in. Better to go with the turbo computer and other electronics. Do all Z engines interchange? Well, anything is possible with a bit of fabricating. If you take a look around the site here I think you will get an understanding what Z guys are willing to do with metal to get monster power into these light cars. All L series engines are direct bolt ins for `70-`83, but don't count anything out of that specrum out of powering your Z car. Visit my web page, under the `73 L24ET for a bit of info on wiring.

JT what electronics system are you using? Which year? I'm very familiar with the `82-`83 turbo system, so let me know. If you you're not running the `82-`83 turbo setup I have everything except for the harness to do the swap. Also have everything to do the Z31 Turbo swap except for the harness.. There is a `84 turbo here with a pretty much complete harness that I'm thinking about grabbing.

Should be less than $20 at your local serve yourself yard. Make sure the wiring on your car is good first. I think there is a switch mounted in the thermostat housing, that should be checked as well. If you take it out, hook up some presured liquid then apply 12V accross the terminals it should shoot the liquid out. Car should start up a lot easier after you get it fixed.

My `72 3 speed auto tranny is really pissed off about all of this power I'm putting to it with the L24ET. I've heard that the Mitsubishi conquest/starion 4 speed tranny will swap over if I grab the bell housing from a nissan maxima with the L28 engine. Does anyone know what else is involved? Like what do I have to do to make the drive shaft fit? Which drive shaft should I use and what do I have to do to it? Is everything pretty much bolt on or do I have to fabricate/modify anything? How about the mount, how much different is it, will I simply have to go foward or back about an inch, or is it a lot different? Will it fit in the tunnel just fine, and is it easy to get the shifter in the right spot? Do I use the tranny out of the fuel injected cars with the body flares or the ones before where they were carberuated? Does it matter? Do you guys know the stall point of the converter? As far as I can tell the one on the `72's is at 2K RPM, but actually it slips when I power brake it, so hard to tell. Also, if I'm slipping this 3 speed, getting it warm and such, what kind of life expactancy should I expect. I think I'm putting out around 220 at the crank (estimate). I would prefer to not be left on the side of the road because of it, and I've never had one fail on me. Do they just keep slipping more and more as they get worse, or will it just break on me?

I'm curious what the core deminsions are. I think HKS offers some intercoolers for other cars that would better use the space up front. The MKIV Supra one looks very nice, and the MKIII one is okay, the Japanese MKIII one like the one I have on my `72 has different end pipes and works better in the Z car. For the price I would have a local place make you up the piping and install a larger one. With the money you save you could be half way into investing for a MIG welder with aluminum welding capabilities to make a custom core/end pipes. My IC pipes are just about completed, took a while to get the correct hose fittings/clamps in.

I'm getting close to putting out a CD to explain the wiring along with everything else needed to know for FI/Turbo charging a L6.. Best bet right now is to do what I did, look through the wiring harness diagram in the back of the haynes manual. The ECU gets its power through one of the chassis plugs, also there is the coil trigger that goes through the chassis plug. You can choose to use the fuel pump modulator or wire it up directly like I did. Visit my web page, and go to my L24ET site under the `73, it should help you a little.

http://www.mjmturbos.com/ Has a lot of pictures and labeling of stock garrett T3's