Tony240ZT

Okay, I was wrong. Looks like the cam gear was pretty messed up. A couple teeth looked pretty sad. I took off the pan, saw no problems, went over the fuel and ignition system, and found nothing wrong, so after taking the head off and getting it down to a bear block I get to put it back together again. I'm guessing the chain slipped a couple teeth. Anyways, I put it back together and it lit right up on the first crank. Haven't taken it on the road yet, but seems to run pretty smooth. Thanks for the offers, but I think I'll try and see what this L24ET can put up with.

I agree with SleeperZ, also if you've been boosting, let the car idle before you turn it off to let those fluids run through the turbo. The oil can burn, cake up, and then not allow more oil to flow through as easily.

Not sure if I'll be ready for the battle of the imports. I'll be going out there at some point though. I should have my `73 with L24ET running before the end of this weekend, so I may take that car out there. Other wise I'll take my big, heavy supra turbo.

Hard to say exactly how much I have into it. I just started writing down some figures and added up around $5k, bit scarry. Some of the big numbers include Wolf3d at $1500, engine $900, tranny $300, TRD clutch $450, HKS intercooler $375. My starter and alternator are rebuilt ones, and weren't cheap, and neither was the fuel system. I saved money on electric fans, coil igniters, shifter, and tranny mount by buying them from the junk yard, but everything else is new. I'd like to make it to the MSA get together if the car is up to the task of driving there.

I came accross a black leather wrapped Porsche steering wheel that I think would look nice in my `73, but the splines' ID are slightly smaller. I was considering drilling them out and then relying on the clamping force of the nut to hold it on there, but that's probably not the best of ideas. Is this something a machine shop could fab for me? Is there a more simple way that would be cheap and reliable? I'm not too worried about damaging the splines of the Porsche wheel, just want to make sure that it's mounted well. I'd rather not mess the splines up on the Z car. The emblem isn't glued on there, it was just to see how it would look. Let me know if you guys thihnk it's lame looking, or a bad idea all around.

The engine is out of a `87-`92 Toyota Supra Turbo like my `87 above in the picture. It's a DOHC, turbo charged, intercooled, 3.0L inline 6 with multi coil packs. My engine is a low milage japanese imported one and they made 260hp stock over there, and 240hp here in the states at around 7-8psi of boost. Stock injectorers were 440cc/min, I dropped in the 550's from rx7's. With the fuel upgrades, 3" exhaust, upgraded intercooler, IC hard pipes I should be able to boost 15 pounds easily. Anymore and I'll have to put a metal head gasket on and ARP head studs. My `87 Supra Turbo is making only 11 pounds of boost and putting out 290hp (smog leagal), so I hope to be at around 320-340hp in the Z car to start out with. Here's what the engine looks like in my `87, it's pretty much stock looking except for the manual boost controler: http://www.zhome.com/~aktar/supra/engine.jpg

Yeah, a monster turbo is on santa's wish list. I'm thinking about trying to get all of the wiring I can that is on the firewall to be hid inside to make things cleaner looking. Right now I don't have a thing bolted on the inner fenders, so if I ever got around to painting it all silver it would look real nice. I'll upgrade the compressor on the turbo I have (Toyota CT-26, larger than a T3, but smaller than a T4) to get some life out of it, but hope to be bolting on a full t4 before the end of the year. HKS, and HPS make manifolds, or I could go the custom route.

Finished up the wiring of the Wolf3D v4.0 and got the engine to run/rev. I'm using the 7M's coil packs with 2nd gen rx7 igniters, Accel 500hp fuel pump, -6an fuel lines, 550cc/min injectors. Intercooler/turbo are not hooked up yet, but will start work on those shortly, they are 2 1/2" with mandrel bends hooked up to a HKS front mount intercooler. Before I can drive it around I have to have a drive line made, and exhaust system made, also need to reroute the clutch hydraulic line. The modified cam possision sensor did the job for sending the timing signal to the control unit. The control unit drives an electric boost controler, which is hooked up. I've installed two low profile electric fans that I found out in the junk yard (they're there, just can't see them in pictures). They are switched on and off by the control unit. Time to clean up the wiring as it all seems to be hooked up correctly. Hopefully I should have it out on the road next week with boost.

What is it that you did to take care of the lift under hard exceleration? Was the the diff solidly mounted? Did it break at one of the ends, where the lift is for the exhaust, or where else? I'd just make one out of some 1/4" steel with quality welds. Making sure to box it up for strength.

Scotty, if you know the details on how to fix up a NA distributor to not advance, or even better, to be advance at idle and to retard when possitive vaccum. Fill me in.

I've already replied to many others on this one before asking the same thing. Basicly, as I stated before, there is no problem at all in using a NA setup, but there are a few things that I would recommend, and also a couple things you should ask yourself before you try and paste things together. The turbo ECU has serveral advantages in that it has the addition of a knock sensor, it also senses elivation, and has much more control over timing. The AFM is larger and will flow more air easier. You can easily swap your NA internals over to a turbo AFM body. The distributor is much different in the turbo car setup, and it doesn't advance as the RPM goes up. This is to prevent knocking, the knock sensor will further retard timing if knocking does occor. You will need to figure out a way to make your distributor not advance. The turbo dist. will not swap. If you simply turn back the NA distributor the car gets sluggish when taking off, best bet is to figure out what advances it and take that out (I think there are some weights that do it in there). Upgrade your injectors, bolt up the turbo, get an air/fuel mixture gauge and start messing around the with the AFM until things look right. Then start the upgrades!

I'm not familiar with the vent line deal to the valve cover, but it sounds like the seals are gone on the turbo. Luck

The relay that gives power to the crank angle sensor, and to the fuel injectors is located on the passenger side. The part that is inside of the car is only for the fuel pump operation, which isn't needed when doing a swap. I hooked my fuel pump up to come on when the ignition is on. There is a coil igniter on the side of the coil (it's on the mount). I think it is triggered by +5V by the ecu to allow for power to be given to the coil. It and the coil mount must be grounded in order for it to work. I have heard that if you hook up +12V to it for longer than a few seconds that it could be damaged. Good luck with it, let me know if you need any help with wiring it up.

Wow! That rocks. I'd love to see more info on the car, like what transmission, rear end, engine management, turbo, fuel system, internals, etc.. What an awesome ride. Anyone check out the April 2002 Turbo magazine? Some very fast Z32's in there.

Hey there Pete, Just came in from the garage, installing the Wolf3D v4.0 it is a very strait forward install. I've installed OEM EFI systems into other cars, and I'd have to say this was easier since it was all layed out nice and clear, with pictures and examples of different engine setups. Only thing that was different was that I installed my own relays, and installed a small fuse block. The Wolf system has a very large selection for ignition trigger pickups, and my cam possition sensor was easily modified to work with the system. I used my stock coil packs with igniters I picked up in the bone yard, if anyone is interested in igniters that work with the wolf system I can help you find them cheaply. I really like the hand controler/display/LEDs they make debugging, setting it up, and tuning easy.

How many pounds of boost before fuel cut off with say exhaust and intake done? My MKIII boosts up to 12 pounds before cut off, and makes around 290hp at the crank. The supra mounts I used were simply just rubber blocks with two studs sticking out each end. I had to fabricate a mount to go between the engine and the rubber block that is mounted on the Z cross member in the same place the old rubber mount was. You will find that the old location of the mounts on the engine are WAY far back from where you want them. You need to bolt the new mount that you fabricat up to where the A/C and the power steering used to bolt up. I didn't use the stock tranny tunnel mounts, they were too far foward, and taking them out will make the fit more comfortable. I modified a MKII supra mount and then made it so that it would bolt up to the side of the tunnel like this: / / ___/ Consider cost of making a drive line, exhaust (3" if you want over 300hp), new clutch, shifter (can use one out of a MKII supra). Stock clutch master cylinder should work fine. Everyone I've talked to suggests replacing the timing belt. I took a good look at mine and it still looked new, I plan on taking the head off after I get it running to replace the head gasket and such, so I'll replace it then. There will be a lot of holes in the thermostat housing that will need plugging, a few on the intake manifold. I picked up several different sizes of drill bits and NPT taps/plugs. Intercooler piping, intercooler, filter. My fuel system wasn't cheap. Lots more, just hard to add it all up into one lump sum, kinda afraid too. If you are sticking with the stock engine management setup I'd highly suggest getting a Lexus V8 AFM body, swapping your sensor into it, then upgrading the injectors to a 550cc/min. This will raise the fuel cut a great deal, and will make your investment make more sense. My car seems heavier in the front now, I'm not sure how much, but I'd like to put one of those aluminum camaro radiators to lighten things up, and maybe relocate the battery.

You would think that the stock ECU would be the easist and cheapest way to go, but if you are considering doing any modifications to the engine for more performance you will save a lot of money in the long run if you go with a stand alone engine management system. There is no question in my mind that the 2JZ-GTE ECU is a fine peice, that in stock form is probably good for 380hp or so. If you want any more then you need to start getting into multiple piggy back systems from HKS, Apex, Greddy, etc. Things like fuel cut off defencers, vein presure converters, fuel control, and adjustment, etc. After you add them up you you could easily have over $3,000 invested in piggy back computers when a single purchace of say $1,500 for a stand alone system could have done the same thing, and includes more features. With the money saved you could be putting that into a T04 single large turbo setup I'm going with WolfEMS, I'm in the middle of installing it right now, and it seems pretty strait forward. It has a LCD display that allows you to setup all of the settings, or you can do it with a PC. There are memory cartridges, built in electric boost controler, turbo timer. There is also real time PC software to view how things are doing on your laptop, and data logging. I was able to use a modified stock cam possition sensor, and the stock coil packs (with coil igniters). It even supports an idle control selonoid. I enquired about installing the system on the 2JZ-GTE, and it's just as strait forward as on my 7M-GTE. There is a great price difference between the 7M and 2JZ, and with some reason. The 2JZ has a better flowing head, stronger pistons, and doesn't have tendancies to blow the stock head gasket. With the money I saved I could do a lot of mods to the 7M that I wouldn't have been able to aford if I went whith the 2JZ. I've already installed a HKS intercooler, 550cc/min injectors, TRD clutch kit, 500hp Accel fuel pump, and have plans to upgrade my turbo, install ARP head studs, and a HKS 1mm metal head gasket. Here are some pics of the engine installed: http://www.zhome.com/~aktar/zcar/7m/mounted/ I need to put up some new ones, I've since finished the intercooler piping, and installed an RX7 oil cooler.

Gotta love that body kit How do you plan to integrate the flares in the rear? I would love to run larger wheels in the rear, but can't think of a way to make it look good with the body kit. Maybe with your vette rear end you were able to bring the wheels/tires in towards the center more?

Whelp, do a compression test and let us know how that turns out. Does it do it more when the car is cold (could be valve seals)? I think it's normal for there to be a bit of oily stuff in that PVC hose, but too much means that you probably have some blow by that is pushing oil out. If you have an automatic transmission check to see that the modulator isn't leaking tranny fluid into the intake. If so, just replace the modulator (like $15).

I have also writen a little bit on the wiring on my `73's web page: http://www.zhome.com/~aktar/zcar/73/turbofi/ Let me know if you have any further questions.

Randy, I may take you up on that offer. I don't need the head. I wonder if my 280ZX could take that much weight in the back? Give me some time to finish up my 7m-gte transplant and I'll come on over and pick it up. Might take me a week or two. I haven't done a compression check yet, been too busy with the other car. Just got my Wolf3D engine management system, and a bunch of mandrel bends for the intercooler piping.

Well, the L24ET in my `73 was running real strong after I found out I had the distributor in backwards! I would say it had 180hp at the crank. I got it on the freeway punched it until I got up to around 90mph and noticed I lost some power so I let off. I'm only boosting around 7 pounds (7.56:1 CR), and I was running more rich than anything. After I slow the RPMs back down I hear this awefull knocking noise and the engine doesn't want to keep idling on it's own. It acted like the turbo fell apart and the turbine was getting stuck and not allowing the engine to breath. I babied it home, took the turbo off and it looked perfectly fine. I checked all of the plugs and they look okay, just a bit rich looking. I've got oil and oil presure, everything apears okay. I'm thinking I busted a rod bolt. I haven't seen any metal on the dipstick, so I'm not 100% sure. The sound sounds like preignition at low RPMs, and makes the whole engine run very rough (shakes), the car is very hard to start up now, and before this it started up so easily. I was hoping it was my distrobutor making the engine fire at the wrong time, so I swapped it but that didn't help. I'm not blowing any smoke, I guess I should just take off the oil pan and take a peak at everything. What a bummer, it was a lot of fun. This was a `72 L24 bottom end, so it had the smaller 8mm bolt rods, I'm guessing they will give out easier than the `73 9mm ones. I had over boosted once before with my carbbed turbo setup, and may have weakened something, and then when I got on it with the EFI setup it was enough to make it let go. I guess I'll be dropping in a L28 now. I have a F54 block in the garage with L28ET rods/pistons. I'll need a crank, bearings, seals, timing gear, etc. If someone has a L28 crank laying around that is just in the way in the garage let me know, I through mine out because I thought I was going to use a LD28 crank.

I think I picked up mounts for a `89 Supra, `90-`92 the cars came with hydraulic mounts which are $100 a peice, these ones were still a lot at around $45 a peice. The engine is very close to the firewall, I put it as far back as I possibly could only left a little space. It is farther back than the L6 was, and I bolted up the engine mounts to these bolt holes that were previously used as PS pump and A/C compressor. I guess I could have used pretty much any car mounts and then adapted them, but I'm not real familiar with very many. What ever makes the most sense pocket wise would be the best way to go. I picked up a tranny mount off of a late `80's celica GT that I have adapted to the stock tranny mount holes. I think that I should have ground off the old tunnel mounts because it would make more clearance for the tranny, and I could have made the bar be more strait accross. The 7m's tranny mount is further back about a full 2-3". Took out the metal in the console to get a clear view of the shifter, and it didn't take much. I'll get more pics of the shifter's location tomorrow. At some point I may redo these things, but for right now I just want to get things going. There is only about 1/2" clearance on each side of the stock tranny mounts and transmission. I might find out that when doing hard shifts the tranny will hit the tunnel, if so I'll fix it at that point. Even after considering this stuff I'd still consider it a fairly strait forward swap. This is my first time doing this much fabricating, so I'm learning as I go. Lots of fun.

Autometer sells a Air/Fuel meter that hooks up to your O2 sensor that is about $55 complete. The EGT's are good for telling you when to back off before things get too hot from running lean.

I once had the PN's but it was still kinda pricy. I always look for good condition ones in the bone yard. Every once in a while I'll see some good ones. Patching them in doesn't have to look bad, you could cover much of your EFI harness with that black plastic tube with a slit type stuff to make it look better.