Tony240ZT

Owen, the L6 engine EFI TPS's are switches, not potentiameters. They let the EFI system know when the throttle body is closed, and at WOT. Scottie, it's looking great.

You wouldn't have any probablem dropping in turbo injectors and adjusting your AFM to get the A/F ratio the way you want it. The turbo distrubutor don't advance at higher RPMS like the NA one does, the Turbo system also has more control over timing, senses altitude, and doesn't require a cold start injector. If you can get control over timing then you would probably be happy with the NA sceme. Other's have done it, I think there are little weights and such inside of the distributor that advance timing as they spin, not sure exactly.

As for your question about running SU's or EFI. I've tried both and EFI is the best way to go with a turbo'd car. The EFI systems are more adaptive, get better gas milage, help control detonation, and allow you to run an intercooler. As for porting the intake/head and such, I think I'd just get it running to begin with, and put that money that you would have spent on the machining to get a nice front mount intercooler, upgraded turbo, injectors, fuel pump, exhaust system, ect. You will see better results from these. This guy that does the whole L28ET setups is probably having a lot of fun fabricating the stuff, but it sounds like you'd probably have as much fun as he's having if you did it yourself. You've got us here for your questions. You will learn more doing it yourself, and will know what and how to upgrade to get to your next goal on your own.

Hey guys, quick question about my `73 240Z with a L24 block, P90 head, and `83 280ZX Turbo electronics. What should I set my timing to? My compression ratio is around 7.56:1 (real low). Should I just crank it as far as I possibly can until I hear knocking, or is that really unsafe? I'm running stock boost right now, but I think I'm going to have to crank it up to get more power. My low compression ratio is making driving feel laggy. I think my timing is set to around 10 degrees advanced at idle right now. That's as far as I can advance it without removing the the shaft and moving it over a tooth or two. How well does the knock sensor do in retarding timing when it senses knocks? How much trust can I put into it?

Here is why I have to cut a little: As you can see it won't be bad. I have stock shifter right now out of a MKII Supra, but when more money comes in I'll call up that place and get a custom length one. Thanks.

Just a side note about the EMS pricing. If I would have gone with the stock computer system I would have had to of sorced an engine wiring harness, they are around $500 new, if you can still get them, then the computer, which you can find used for a good deal maybe $100. Now, you have a system that has a restricive AFM, and only allows you to do 11 pounds of boost. You can swap out the stock AFM body for a Lexus V8 one ($200), then swap your old AFM sensor into this, increase the size of the injectors, to trick out the system, but most times this makes the car run rich. To get rid of the AFM you will need a piggy back computer from HKS called the VPC (Vein Presure Converter). This will allow you to run a different sized of injectors but you will need to get it reprogrammed if you change again, big $$. It's about $1,000 for the VPC if you can find a complete kit. You will want to do away with the Fuel cut off problem with a HKS FCD (Fuel Cut Defencer), which only allows you to get 18 pounds of boost, but you will run into the same problem again I've seen these go for $500 with a HKS F-CON system which slightly modifies the MAP curve, and lengthens injector firing times. You will need a HKS BCC (forget what it stands for), which allows you to dial in your Air/Fuel ratios with nobs (no display!). Still after all of this stuff there is no way to actually see your fuel map. To control boost you'd need an electronic boost controler a used HKS EVC II goes for around $275, the wolf ems has a built in turbo timer add $75. I have heard that after adding all of these piggy back systems that you will get a delay in reaction from the computer. Just think, one computer is interperating what another is saying, converting the data, and posting it again to have it happen again. You will need to buy tons of guages to see what all of these piggy back computers are doing, and know how to adjust them. As you know guages aren't cheap and too many of them make a car look ricy. So, I feel like the Wolf3d is a good deal. I could have saved money going with SDS, or haltec(sp?), but I like the features of the wolf system.

Stony, after looking at my `87 supra turbo I don't notice any slant. Here is a picture of my Supra's engine compartment: I'm using the Turbo 5 speed tranny with TRD clutch/presure plate. The tranny mount is a modified MKII Supra mount (lots of these in the bone yard). The complete Wolf3D system with built in boost controler, real time PC software, and a modified cam possition sensor to work with the system is about $1500 shipped. I'm going to take measurements for the drive line, and combine the supra and z one. There are shops around here that specialize in that. My `87 Supra is basicly stock w/just a 2 1/2" exhaust, and boost turned up. It's making 290hp at the crank. I can't get any more out of it without doing a lot of changes. The 7m-gte in my Z will be limited by the stock CT-26 turbo which is probably only good for 320hp. I've upgraded injectors to 550cc/min, have a fuel pump good for 500hp, HKS FMIC, TRD clutch, so if I were to upgrade the turbo, put on a metal head gasket and ARP head studs I might see 400hp at the crank. I would love to go with a full T4 turbo setup, but right now it is out of my price rang. HK$ makes a kit, but it's like 4 grand completed! I'll likely be dropping in a set of adjustable cam gears, or at least on the exhaust side where it makes the biggest difference.

Still need to work on the tranny mount, but the engine mounts seem like they will work. I had to push the engine back as far as possible so that I could see the shifter. I still have to cut some metal out to get the shifter to work. Even though the engine is inline 6, DOHC, and a full 3.0L it's not as long as the L6, it's wider, and so is the tranny, but both fit easily. As you can see from the pics the engine is behind the sway bar, this will leave a lot of room to run intercooler piping and electric fans. check out http://www.zhome.com/~aktar/zcar/7m/mounted/ for the rest of the pictures. My Wolf3D is still not here, I ordered it 3 months ago, but they promise it will be out to me tomorrow. 3" exhaust will be installed, look through previous posts for the HKS FMIC. Those are MSD 8.5mm wires, let me know if you have any other questions. I'll finish the tranny mount tomorrow, and order the mandrel bends for the IC piping.

I wouldn't consider the 2jz-gte swap to be as easy. The engine is about the same price as the rb26, and I don't think the twin turbos fit. I could be wrong on that, but every 2jz-gte swap I've seen someone has made a custom manifold. I understand that the engine runs better with a single T4, and the HKS manifold is big $$$, but I think it is too tight. I know my 7m-gte will be tight with a single turbo. I would love to see more engine compartment pictures of a 2jz-gte swap, and 7m-gte swap. I've got my engine hoist, and my tranny is now bolted up to my 7m-gte so I will be trial fitting it today using the toyota engine mounts I think they will bolt in with only small modifications.

I've used the aircraft stuff on aluminum before without a problem. I would say it's safe, but don't suggest letting it sit for over 15-20 minutes. I can imagine it will be a messy job. Even bead blasting will hurt the fins, so that's about the only option you have.

When they port out the compressor housing do they have to shape the transistion from inducer to major differently? I'm guessing that if you had to make the transistion different than you'd need special machinery to do it. Just wondering cause I'd love to do the work myself if I could.

I paid $115 from Turbo City for my Garrett T3 kit. I sand blasted out the center section really well, then used carb cleaner. Turns out I'm not going to run it so I put it up on ebay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1804438582 Sure is pretty isn't it?

If you can find a place to mount one you could just tap into one of your other injector wires for the signal since they are batch fire.

If anyone is interested I have that very intake manifold in my hands all cleaned up (blasted). If anyone wants one I'll let it go for $70 + shipping. They came on the engines that were imported from japan only, so they are kind of hard to find locally. I have one installed on my `73 240Z L24ET setup that I have modified by boring it out to 65mm, and ground/smoothed out.

It's securely mounted with 3 tabs that I welded onto the frame. I will definately have more pics of my engine swap as things progress. Scottie, I found some pretty neat looking blinkers that look similar to the 280Z ones that I will likely mount behind the grill. I used to have bullet looking ones, but they were pretty cheap and too small.

Thanks for the comments. Mercedes Brilliant Silver with a bit of blue pearl. There is a pretty thick clear coat as well. I think Mercedes used the color in `99, that's when I had the car painted.

I see it. Pretty cool low budget setup. When are you going to install an electric pump on it? Is there an easy way to make the fuel bowl larger? Could you drop on a larger carb if you had to? It'll be interesting to see how it does after you can get tracktion. Are you going to install an A/F ratio gauge in the truck?

What kinda exhaust manifold is that? Is it a non turbo exhaust manifold that has been modified to fit a turbo? What kind and size is the turbo? Looks pretty healthy

3/8 NPT tap, 3/8 NPT to -6 AN, and then some -6 push on hose fitting/red nifty hose. I'm using an Accel inline fuel pump, and will use the stock feed line as my return line for now.

Picked up this HKS intercooler for an okay deal, so I will be running it in my car with the 7m-gte engine. Comments?

I was hunting all over for one in the bone yard today (no luck). I can settle for a used one as long as it is strait. I will probably call around some more for a used one, but may go with the griffen. The part number you listed there, is it the one with the automatic tranny cooler built in or no? I'm running a 5 speed, so I won't be needing one. DigitalZ what did you use for the top mount? Is it necessary to mount it back as far as you did? I will be running a inline 6 (7m-gte) with intercooler piping behind the radiator so room is important.

The drain plug hole is tiny. It's 1/2", but that doesn't leave very much meat for a good sized ID. I would highly suggest drilling and taping it to a 3/8" NPT. I'm going to do it in the morning. I have a 9/16" drill bit and the 3/8 NPT tap. Also have a 90 degree 3/8 NPT to -6AN, a -6 push on fitting and some cool red hose.

I just completed a swap into my `73 240Z. So, the wiring is still pretty fresh in my mind. I tried documenting some of it on my web page under the `73 L24ET page. Check it out, and email me if you have any other questions.

Okay, I was dumb. All you have to do is solder on an AN fitting to a hard line, it's no big deal. On my supra engine (7m-gte) I'm sticking with the stock fuel rail for the time being so I put a -6 AN fitting onto the 3/8" hard line for the feed, and will be hooking up my return line to the 240Z stock feed line, which I think is 5/16". When I get a custom fuel rail I'll upgrade to -8 feed and probably keep the -6 for return. I'm using an Aceel inline pump that is good for up to 500hp. I would be very happy with 450hp at the crank. I've upgraded injectors to 550cc/min, I've got a good HKS intercooler, just need to upgrade my turbo. Was hoping to get some millage out of my CT-26 by upgrading the compressor to a to4 60-1 The SS braided line looks nice, but I think I'm going to use the kind that is wrapped in cloth (Earl's Super Stock) because of the price difference. It has no problem flowing fuel, and is good for up to 250psi, plus I can get it in red to match my other high lights. The hose works with the Super Stock fitting which is a press on type, or Auto Fit ones, which are the type that press on and then are compressed by screwing on the sleeve.

At one time Arizona Z car did have a pretty cool custom intake manifold with the throttle body in the middle facing inward. I really wanted for them to make one up for me, but the guy is stuck on only making suspetion/brake parts now. I was going to make myself up a custom sheetmetal intake manifold, but went with a different engine instead. I would like to at some point make a custom aluminum sheet metal intake manifold for my current project, but not until it will make any difference. I agree, you can have your stock bungs machined out to the size you'd like.