synthtk

Thanks for the info guys, hopefully the next trip to the dyno will be more productive

I searched but didn't really find any info... for those of you that have Dyno'd your RB how are you picking up RPM? I usually dyno on a DynoJet and we always have issues with the RPM signal being not synced correctly or going crazy above ~6000 RPM. The Dyno in question has an inductive pickup which we tried looping around the little pigtail off the ignitor and around the coil 1 wires but it never got a good reliable signal. Last time I went we ended up using an optical pickup w/ a mark on the crank pully which worked great until around 400 ft/lbs of torque and the car seemed to move too much for the optical to work... Thanks -Chris

Already have the GM solinoid/Pigtail.. which was about $35 for both when I got it some time ago, mine has a small bump on the fittings to keep the hose on, but yeah if I didn't already have the GM solinoid I would have picked up one of the other solinoids, apparently they have boxes of them at my Dad's work. I tried using the original Skyline solinoid at first but could never build more than 1bar of boost

I built a 3.5" exhaust for my car, I tried tucking it up in the tunnel as far as I could but it still hangs a bit below the floorpan, barely scrapes any speedbumps. Here is a link to my thread about it. I now have a new downpipe and front half of the exhaust since I went single turbo. I haven't uploaded any pics of the new setup yet though. My car has Eibach Pro Kits, so its not lowered by much but its lower than stock.

I run the same radiator, it works great and is not expensive at all (under $200 when I got mine). Its a GM Double Pass 24"x19" Part No: 2111100 from PRC Racing. The only thing you will have to do is fab up some brackets to mount the radiator. Here are some pics I took of the radiator when I got it that show the various measurements. Here are some pics of the actual install, I also mounted a Moroso recovery tank onto the radiator.

I used a Lokar cable kit for my throttle cable. I had bought the normal Lokar carb kit cable which had the wrong end on it, so I had to machine a lock nub, but if you buy the Lokar LS1 cable it will have the nub already on the cable. The cable goes through the firewall and attaches to the pedal directly, I used two large washers on each side of the firewall so the locking nuts wouldnt pass through through. This setup (direct to pedal) seems more responsive than my old setup which used the stock linkage and then had a cable running to the throttle. [more pics] Here is a link to the Lokar 48" LS1 throttle cable on Summit, currently $62. They also offer the cable in a few other styles and lengths for different prices. The attachment to the pedal was really simple, I just drilled a hole in the top of the pedal rod where it gets flat and then slipped the Lokar cable end around that and popped in the pin.

I am also running the AEM EMS, its a pretty nice (yet kinda pricy) complete plug and play system, it has pretty good data logging and just about every feature you could want. I haven't had any issues with mine at all, everything just "worked" after loading the basemap. I originally started with the MAFs and then went MAP/Speed Density, I will be using a GM Boost Solinoid to have the EMS control boost shorty (currently a manual is in charge of that). I also have it setup to control the radiator fan which is kinda nice There are also nice safety features such as knock control and o2 feedback adjustments, it also has a neat autotune feature if you have a wideband however a dyno tune is always recommended. One of the other things I will be doing with the EMS shortly is wiring in the "Boost Safe" output from the AEM Water/Meth injection kit I am running so if there is any error with the meth system it will retard the timing and/or open the wastegate all the way so it won't build boost. I also think it is pretty easy to tune myself, a few hours on the dyno netted 467.11 whp on 91 octane w/ 50/50 meth mix at 6500rpm (anything above 6 the dyno lost rpm signal ) with a GT3582 HTA T4 and "low" boost of 24psi on a stock internals RB26. I know a lot of friends prefer the cost and DIY factor of a megasquirt + a extension harness to make it PnP or just going to a Motec. Is this going on your race car or do you have another RB project in the works?

Very nice looking swap, keep up the good work.

Do you have any shots of the pickup inside of the pan? I am running external on mine witha sheet metal pan but I hate how I did the baffling... so just curious what other people are doing.

If it revs and runs fine cold yet after it warms up it runs poorly its probably because its kicking into closed loop and without the o2 sensors it cannot properly meter the fuel/ignition etc... normally most ECU's wont click to closed unless they have varying o2 voltage but who knows with the RB ecu... we are talling about pre OBDII days here... If you have a consult/blaZt or something you could easily see whats going on. Its pretty handy if you are going to be running a stock ECU for awhile. I have my old blaZt in my closet if you are interested in buying it, I used it for about a week to diagnose startup issues on my swap and then went with an AEM EMS.

Its kinda hard to tell what is going on from the video but here it goes... Is that it just idling after warmup or are you having to blip the throttle to keep it running? Are you getting spark and fuel to all cyls? You may want to check your timing as well as your throttle linkage to make sure the idle contact switch is being hit when the throttle plate is closed. Are your o2 sensors hooked up and good?

It kind of depends on your timing light, if you have an old school light you will end up having to use a spring (it may have a technical name) that will go on top of the spark plug for Cyl1 and then go into the coil, then you clip your lead around that spring. More modern timing lights can pick up the signal from single pin connector by the firewall (it will have a black cap on it) or just being looped around the wires going to #1 coil. You then adjust the CAS to set the timing... I forget if you need to ground anything out like you need to on some other cars to do the timing correctly... but its all detailed in the FSM.

Congrats, nice looking build!

Thanks for putting that up! You should add your site to the stickied links thread.

You can route Greddy BOVs back in, that will help the driveability.

If the length of the Z or Skyline driveshaft is correct to fit up to the diff (my R34 skyline driveshaft was the correct length) all you need to do is have the rear flange swapped out for the flange that fits an R200, a drive shaft shop can do this for you, If needed they can also lengthen or shorten the drive shaft or just build a whole new one if yours are in bad shape. There is no bolt in driveshaft from another car that will just work.

If you want the car to run the best you should recirculate the BOV if you are running MAFs. Lateron if you switch to a blow through MAF or convert to MAP you can vent without issues.

I don't know of anyone here using a VPC. The hardest part you will likely run into when doing a VPC is finding the chip and the harness. VPCs these days seem pretty scarce to begin. The largest community that I know of for VPC users is the DSM world, even there its hard to find one these days as most people have moved onto other piggybacks, flashes or full standalones.

The car looks amazing, super clean!

You have a PM

Amazing!

The sender is standard 1/8 NPT, just get head down to Home Depot or Lowes and buy some T's and whatnot if you need to move the sender or add the stock Z sendor along with the RB one, or just pull the RB one and use the Z one, the RB ECU does not read the oil pressure. If you want to change the filter housing and still keep the sender just find one that has a 1/8 NPT port or get a AN adapter with a 1/8 NPT port and put it on one of the lines for the relocation.

I must have lucked out on my harness then... I just plugged the generic 30amps right into both slots without any issue.

Which one do you think you will end up using? What were their prices if you don't mind me asking and are you going to sell your twins?

So I have done some searching around here and not been having a lot success... maybe I just such at searching the forum. But what do we have as a confirmed fit for a T4 manifold (divided preferred) that fits a RB26 in a S30? If I recall Stony ran a log manifold from either HKS or Greddy, and that some custom manifolds have been made, possibly a 6boost or a LoveFab that *should* fit. Joel didn't you recently pick up a few single manifolds? Do any fit? Known not to fit is most of the ChinaBay manifolds. Anyone here running a T4? If so which manifold are you running and which turbo are you running with it?