synthtk

I originally wanted to put 4" on my car but the piping sat too low for my comfort when I threw some 4" piping up under the car, how close are you going to be putting the piping the the body and the diff? I ended up with a 3.5" system and I still scrape over some speed bumps. I have Tokico's and Eibachs.

There was a pretty lenghthy thread on the AEM and CAS issue awhile back, with a lot of people chiming in. AEM does have a fix for cars with the issue in the form of a CAS wheel with a reduced number of slots, and I believe a few other vendors have similar discs. Also many people chimed in to state that this issue is evident on more than just the AEM EMS and seems to be an issue on any high hp high rpm car. I personally have not had any issues with my car and the EMS but at the moment the engine is stock and I am only reving it a bit beyond 8K.

I think the car sounds pretty good, you could always toss another round bullet under the car to make it a bit quieter. I only really used the flanges from the stock downpipe at this point and a section of flex, but you can easily make flanges and get a flex piece. The downpipes don't use a donut to the turbo it is just a flat gasket, I used a set of old gaskets I had in my tool chest from my old Z32TT I do not think any of the LS series at least in the vettes are variable cyl at this point, mine for sure wasn't and was rated 18city 28highway. The engine was seriously a torque monster I still have the stockers, I figured I want to upgrade turbos anyway....soooo why not help them along in their trip to the great beyond?

You can build yourself a single exit 3.5" exhaust using parts from summit for under $300, I had a thread about the one I built awhile back, its pretty easy as its basically a straight shot back. In my old C6 w/ the LS2 and T56 transmission @ 80mph the engine was about 1800 rpm in 6th gear. That is the secret I would get anywhere from 20-40mpg according to the instantaneous mpg readout on the freeway, the longer you cruise on the freeway and don't stomp on it the better mpg ya got. I have the AEM w/ MAP configuration and love it, I am still getting used to the software and will have it professionally tuned at some point but its easy enough to become familiar with to do the basic tuning off the base maps (which are pretty darn good) and get yourself in trouble. Currently I am trying to get the stock boost solenoid to to be controlled by the EMS to do gear/load or rpm regulated boost but can not get it to go over 1 bar for the life of me... so back to the manual controller for now.

Thats what I thought too but didn't think the sump was that deep on the 200ZR pan.

Engine is stock, just running a full fuel system (-10 lines, A1000, RC 1000cc injectors, fuel cell, blah blah blah), boost is set to about 18-20psi, custom ChinaBay FMIC setup w/ 3" pipes and custom 3.5" exhaust and I have the AEM EMS using a MAP configuration with a 5 minute industrial park tuning session based on the AEM base maps. The car has no AC, It just happened to be cool out that morning the pictures were taken, heck I just recently hooked the heater back up

Sorry to see ya have to sell such a nice car. Evo's like the DSMs before them are huge money pits, the mod itch is very high with these cars as they take to mods very nicely, however if you have bad weather up there then AWD may be more rewarding in the end.

My drive shaft has about a 1/4" of play in it, I would not worry about 1/2" either since the yoke is pretty long. As far as waiting to do all that other stuff because the crank pulley, why don't you just start putting stuff in? The only thing you will need to pull to change the pulley is the radiator, so you can get everything fabbed up in the mean time and then pull the radiator which will be easier since its easy, slap on the pulley, throw on the alt belt, fill it with fluids then go

You will def need to change the fuel pump to something with more capacity.... if you are looking for the cheap way out pickup a walbro 255hp off ebay for like $100, make sure you get one that has an in and out barb on it as that is how the oem fuel pump seems to be.

Can't wait to see what that thing puts down, congrats on getting her on the road again!

Beautiful car!

No spacers needed Thanks!

Looks good! What oil pan is that?

For the front turbo I had a flange made and then just welded a piece of straight pipe with a bead to allow the airfilter to fit better, has worked out just fine so far

I had an issue when I got my car running with the engine running on 5 or 4 cyls depending how you looked at it, turned out that the injectors weren't firing sometimes.. after swapping injectors watching the ECU's injector driver with an o-scope etc the issue turned out to be in the wiring harness itself. The female ecu pins in the ecu plug on the harness were very loose for many of the pins, especially the injectors, so depending how the ecu was sitting at the time the car would run well or wouldn't. I ended up pulling every pin and just checking them to see how snug the fit was and the ones that were loose (there were many) I just crimped them down a bit and soldered the pin to the wire for good measure while I had the pins out. Simple to check, annoying to track down, might be worth a look especially since the car just started running well without doing anything.

Would anyone be interested of a chart showing the wire colors on a R33 ecu? I have them all written down and was thinking about creating a PDF of it. I also have a legible-by-me-but-maybe-not-anyone-else wiring map of all the connectors that came on my R33 harness... like what pin on X connector goes to what pin on Y connector or the ECU, that I would be willing to put in some sort of digital format if it would help out.

Thanks! They are Boyd Coddington Tuners, 17x8 up front and 17x10 in the rear, original 4 lug pattern too.

This is the exact problem I am currently having with my pan. I did a pan similar to Joel's with a single trap door, top drain backs and a rear external pickup. Oil pressure is great until I do a stop on a decline or a very hard stop on level surface, then it drops pretty hard, at first it would go near 0, but I have done some further modifications (changed pickup style and now 3/8th off the bottom and added a upper plate with fewer drain backs) which has helped but it still drops to 1 bar of pressure where normal idle is at 2 bar. In hindsight during the last modification I should have also sealed the gaps around the trap door to further help reduce the oil from flowing towards the front of the pan, but I still don't think this would solve my issue completely. Such a frustrating issue, at this point I kind of want to just gut the pan and start over, but I feel if I do that I should switch back to internal pickup... which then leads to wanting to go a new oil pump if I am going to go through the work pulling off the current N1 pump. Modified top plate, with fewer drains back and a lip overhanging the trap door Original top plate, way too many gaps and holes. Modified Pickup, still external Original pickup Great start on that pan! This is the exact kind of design I want to do when I redo my pan. You may want to think about moving the trap door up a bit instead of right off the bottom to stop oil from going under the door. My current door is not sealed perfect along the bottom (to avoid it binding) nor the vertical surface between where the door rests and the side of the pan and its amazing how much oil leaks past on those small gaps. What are you planning to do for the top plate? how many drain backs are you planning to use and how large of an opening for the pickup?

Thanks!

Looking good, hopefully she fires up

No problem with the linkage... handful of stuff you need to change on the RB26 and car to make it fit in the Z. Read the stickies at the top of the forum and do some searches, lots of really good information on this board concerning the swap.

I have tried to get into the other forums (nico, racebread, freshalloy), but always find myself coming back here... where people actually are helpful and appreciative of others opinions and still decently active... kinda sucks tho sometimes good deals pop up on those other forums for items for sale. +1 for HybridZ

Good choice getting the 25, you may want to start looking for another trans though.

Rick Wong/Infinity Machining makes some amazing motor mounts, but you are on you own for a trans mount (not too hard)

Wow, some really nice RBZ's in this thread! Here is some pics of mine to throw in the mix. Sorry if I am a pic whore.... I noticed I don't have any good interior shots showing the Skyline gauges in the Z pods and none of my relocated Defi's... will have to work on that. Disregard the nasty dent in the rear.... these were taking on 2/2 on the way back from Cars & Coffee in Irvine, CA Older but neat shot I think... K, I am done I swear!