synthtk

Whatever you do make sure you convert to CV joints of some sort... the half shafts are very week and after breaking and changing them a few times you will just wish you went with a good CV setup the first time. I started with a long nose 3.9 R200 w/ Clutch LSD that still used the half shafts and now run a Q45 R200 VLSD to get the big strong CV shafts.

I have an AEM EMS Series 1 and started with the basemap AEM provided, it worked fine to get it running and actually wasn't that bad. Did you get that tune off of the forum or out from the AEM base tunes folder that is provided with the EMS? It is weird they would have provided a basemap with 1200cc injectors... selecting the OEM 440ccs and not using the resistor pack may mess things up for you. If your Series 2 base map was set for 1200cc don't just change your injectors using the wizard, if I recall this only changes some specific voltage but doesn't actually change the map values, also goto your fuel map and right click and there should be an option to change injectors that way where you enter the flow rates etc. I remember I had problems with that when I went to RC1000 injectors... Note this was using AEM Pro not AEM Tuner also so options may have changed and your mileage may vary. As far as the TPS are you sure your throttle cable is fully opening and closing the throttle plate?

Looks like my head after I melted piston #2, head should still be usable, just take it to a machine shop and have it checked out to see if i can be milled down.

I run a ForcedPerformance HTA GT3582R w/ 1.0 T4 Divided housing and have no problems with spool on my 2.6... I think .68 and .58 would be too small personally.

San Diego here.

Super clean install, congrats on the shoot!

Ditto! If it wasn't a pain to pull the pan I would try to gut mine and redo it like this one... oh and have to pull the oil pump off to convert to internal pickup again... argh!

Put the pan on the engine then drop it all in, its a huge PITA to pull the pan off from under the car. I have a Thaggard pan. Out of curiousity do you have more pics of your pan/pickup?

I have pics, just not up yet, Ill try to be not lazy and upload all of my recent project pics and do a post about whats new with the car

From what I understand the RB25 head will go on it but needs a bit of work to make the water/oil passages to line up, an RB26 head pretty much slaps right on but you need to either make sleeves and use RB25 head studs or tap the block for the larger 26 head studs. You would also want to change the rods/pistons because the compression ratio would be way low with just the RB30 bottom end stock (I believe). You also need to get a special timing belt and setup the tensioners differently than how they are stock, some people use a modified tensioner/idler pully setup and others use a twin tensioner setup. Here is a good place to start looking for info, also Skylines AU has quite a bit of info. http://meggala.com/RB30head.htm , http://users.on.net/~sandr/twincam.htm and http://paulr33.skylinesaustralia.com/docs/RB30_DOHC.pdf The hardest thing seems to be finding a piston that will yield a decent compression ratio. Places like SPOOL will sell you Arias or CP Pistons but they might be a custom spec.. RIPS can also provide the pistons you need, as well as the belt, tensioner setup and everything else ya may want if ya wanted to build it stateside.

My MSA BRE Style CF spoiler has the same sort of gap... and the clearcoat has started to crack/yellow :-/ Not sure what kind of "care" the CF parts need but probably a good idea to start keeping it covered up when you can.

I picked up a used Greddy T4 manifold off eBay for ~$350, the only thing I had to do (well other than fixing a crack and resurfacing the flanges...) was modify the wastegate pipe, but that was mainly because I put a TiAL 44mm vband on it instead of using a 4 flange 40mm wastegate it was setup for originally, it might have even fit with the wastegate pipe not modified.. I have a ForcedPerformance GT3582 HTA w/ 1.04 T4 hot side on it, everything fits great!

I am running a Summit 15g that sounds just like the one you described, so is a friend, they have worked great so far. You will just need to figure out a fuel gauge to work with that sender, I pipe it into my EMS to read the level and my friend uses an Autometer gauge.

Have it rebaffled, I did an external pickup like Joel did with a similar interior design and it unfortunately allows the oil pressure to drop when doing hard braking. If it could be gutted and rebaffled to something like this: http://forums.hybridz.org/showpost.php?p=1118369&postcount=11 that would be great. You can see the admittedly flawed design here: http://picasaweb.google.com/rb240z/20070520FinishedOilPan# (comments from the peanut gallery are not needed), lesson learned. A quick bandaid has helped the pressure issue and can be seen here http://picasaweb.google.com/rb240z/20080210OilPanTry2# but its still not something I want to run long-term. Might need to take this to PM/Another Topic since we are bit off topic about front pans. BTW ya can see the Front Sump Pan I have here: http://picasaweb.google.com/cfitzpatrick/ForSale#

Ditto, love my AEM, it has every feature I could want out of the box. Now if a nice Motec setup was similar price.... welll....

Thats who I went through too, good guy.

Some comments: What are your power goals? You have a GT42 which is a large turbo, so I would imagine you want a lot of power, the RB25DET will most likely need to be built to utilze that sort of power, also the 555cc injectors willl likely be way too small for your setup. I would go with the universal downpipe and build from there, or just build one from scratch, the Supra one would most likely not fit and I have heard that sometimes the Chinabay exhausts/downpipes are a pain to weld if you had to hack it up to make it work. I have no experience with Nistune but a lot of people seem to like it, if it can do MAP thats what I would do but thats just a personal preference I know a lot of people still prefer MAF setups. If you end up needing a R33 ECU I have a R33 RB26DETT ECU for sale in the classifieds.

If you are wanting something to experiment with I have a RB25DET pan that came with my swap... someone has already done a bit of hacking to make it work witha RB26 Pickup/Block. I have a SpeedShop Thagard based pan now which I want to redo also, maybe we can work something out...

Yeah 240Hoke's kit is what I used, came out nice.

if you end up needing an ecu let me know I have my old R33 RB26 ecu just sitting in a box

A OEM Hub will not work you need to get the MOMO hub for a 240Z or another aftermarket hub with the same bolt pattern... BTW Nardi patterns won't work.

Yeah the recovery tank is basically an overflow, most "overflow" bottles you can buy though will not siphon back into the radiator, this one will since it has a tube the goes into the tank to allow the radiator to suck the coolant back into the radiator. My piping is 3" on both sides. Thanks!, I used a part of an old radiator hose that I had laying around my garage for the upper hose and used one of those universal bends (has the kind of accordian look) for the bottom, I just measured the inlet/outlet and the length I wanted and picked one up at NAPA I believe, a formed hose would be nicer but this seems to work.

Yup, the LS1 cable has a set screw and I did end up shortening my cable a bit, but I do not recall exactly how much.