synthtk

Matt, how do you think the stock valves would handle the Tomei 280/11.5 cams with only revving to 7500 or so? The cams are a bit bigger than I originally wanted but they were a really good deal so I picked them up. I am planning on doing an RB30 swap so will not be revving very high and know I need to get the solid lifters due to the smaller base circle of the cam and at least the Tomei B-Spec springs according to a local Tomei rep. Can you still get pretty good pricing on the Tomei stuff? Thanks -Chris

Always love to hear what you are doing with your car. Looks great!

So... I may have missed this in the previous threads but does anyone have part numbers for the different pistons available for the RB30/26 swap? I am looking for about 9:1 CR and know that CP and Arias apparently make pistons for this based on the offerings that SPOOL has. Obviously Wiseco has an option but with questionable results and I have seen MAHLE pistons for the swap on eBay also... but the dish descriptions and CR results all seem to conflict... RIPSNZ what do you guys use? Heck can I buy them from you along with a collar & belt? I have had a RB30 block and a set of your rods (well they are supposed to be your rods) in my garage for sometime now and would love to see this project going again...

Their sales reps seem very knowledgeable from when I talked with them last and I have heard their product is very good. I know my buddy that is into Honda's has heard of them and knows a bunch of people using their product. I am highly considering going with them but still trying to decide which of their spring sets to get and if I want to go with their lifters or stick with all Tomei parts... price wise the definitely have the advantage. Which springs did you go with? Are you using aftermarket lifters also? I have considered going with Supertech for springs and possibly lifters for my Tomei 280°/11.5mm cams.

I am using standard 30amp (i think) automotive relays..... car runs fine and you can get them anywhere for a few bucks.

Beautiful! Very nice retro concept work!

That is a great price on the Crower rods, and an excellent price for your Carillos, hope someone jumps on this, I would if I was still keeping the 26.

Congrats on starting the build! I will have a very similar thread to post up soon, but have been a bit lazy so far. Nice to see some RB30s being built, its almost like the new in thing for RB Z's??

Looks very nice, out of curiosity where did you pick up the ovals from and where are you buying your vband hardware from?

Nice find guys!

I just put my Defi sender in the stock location, the stock one just goes to the cluster if I recall.

Glad to hear that everything is on the right path to getting fixed and having the car back on the road, can't wait to see what the new and improved engine can do!

I know a bunch of people that run Eagles with no issues, but for awhile they did have that negative image, but I think it was due to a bad batch like a lot of manufacturers run into during their product life. In my last built motor I ran Pauter rods and CP pistons and loved them but I am not sure what I will be using for my upcoming RB30... seems like options are pretty darn limited there.

Sorry to hear that an oil filter was a possible reason for engine failure! I used to run one on my built 4G63 and was always skeptical about them, but my father insisted that FRAMs were good... and back in his day they probably were. I would run OEM but I am running a large PH8 filter so am currently running a Bosch, I also sometimes use the Mobil1 filters.

Def do not get your fingers near that fan.... chop chop! Keep up the good work

If this was a few months from now I would have a R33 long block that would be avail Hopefully you can find the parts you need pretty quick and get the car back up and running without to much fuss.

That sucks stony to hear stony, hopefully you can find the parts and get her running right away!

Ugh... I hope I never run into an issue like that with mine.

I just wanted to say this is a very cool project, congrats on the great job and can't wait to see where you go with it in the future!

I have this done, you can read about it in the thread Stealth-Z originally started here: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=119780 Fitting the gauges into the pods was pretty easy, I even have the rear cap on the speedo now just had to trim it to allow the circuit board to stick out. Wiring the gauges themselves was also pretty straightforward once figuring out what pins did what, especially if you skip adding the high beam, e-brake and turn signal indicators in the pods. I am still working on getting lighting right in the gauges, the stock bulbs won't really work due to the PC boards, so at first I added rice bulbs for needle illumination etc, but ended up doing a LED light ring in each gauge also, which has helped quite a bit but there are still a few "hot spots". One of these days I need to pull the gauges out and do a more documented how-to on the wiring and cutting the pods/gauges as well as take some pictures of the finished product during day and night. I also still need to finish calibrating the gauges from km/h to mph, right now its a bit off especially at higher speeds. Nice score with the Nismo cluster by the way!

I have watched your videos for awhile, nice to see you have a thread here on HybridZ too! Amazing car, keep up the good work!

Good thing none of these standalone guys work on planes then

I think its official I just suck at fabricating things if my 3.5" drags Now I want to redo it in 4" but the existing 3/5" would be a complete waste of metal at that point.

I ran my SS braided fuel lines down the trans tunnel, just like stock, seems a much better idea than under the body pan where they could scrape the ground since this car does not have deep frame rails to protect the lines. The brake lines are up there too... so if by some chance the shaft broke and then by some change went to the upper corner of the tunnel you would lose brakes anyway.... something at that point in time would be more important that losing your fuel I would think.... Needless to say I am personally not too concerned about the drive shaft banging up the lines.

I will have to see if I can find any other pics, most of the good ones are posted. I need to get the car cleaned up and have my friend take some new shots with the new rims and brakes, I have a good amount of the car before the RB and then some after the RB but without the new rims, flares and brakes. Thanks for the compliments!