synthtk

I am thinking about taking mine up there, kinda wish I could have the body repaired before then, but unlikely. What parts of the show are you going to participate in?

I believe he is using a ChinaBay special intercooler, 24x12x4" core with 3" top/bottom side outlets and 31" overall width. I am running the same IC on my car, and it works great, only was like $150 too.

Very nice!

I will have to get a few pictures of the fogs at night, I just did a H4 conversion on the headlights this weekend too. The AEM install was pretty straight forward, I had the car running on MAF and stock ECU at first, then got the AEM running on basemaps and MAF, then once that was working ok, I then went to MAP on the AEM, once that was running good, I went through an thinned out the wiring harness (for the second time) removing the MAF wires, O2 wires and other items that no longer needed to be connected. I did leave the idle switch and one other wire as I figured someday they may provide some sort of useful input to something. I have the AEM controlling my radiator fan, which previously was on a on/off switch, it also controls the Aeromotive A1000 fuel pump (which also previously was on a switch) and works good. I am running only slightly modified base maps, I have only messed with the fuel table mainly to compensate for the higher boost I am planning on running and the RC 1000 injectors, I have not looked at ignition yet. This week I have been getting back into messing with the car and have been working on getting the stock skyline boost solenoid controlling boost. At first it will just be set to 14.7psi but eventually I pay do it based on load, RPM or TPS. I really like the AEM a lot, and highly recommend it!

Super super super clean swap, great job!

You have been quite busy, keep up the posts, you may think no one reads them but people do. I wondered the same thing about my build up thread. You probably mentioned this already, but which radiator are you using?

Looks great, keep us all up to date. Crazy how far back that engine is sitting...

Love it!

Don't have a HKS or it would be on my car... but have a brand new stock one if ya want it

You move it, there is a spot for it, R32s have it drilled already so you just remove the plug, R33+ you have to drill but the spot is marked. Search has more info.

Thanks for the info guys! Bummer the correct inner/outers for the early years are hard to find.

Having the same issue, the inners I am getting are way too long and the wrong thread size, does anyone know a good source to get inners for Series 1/Early 1970 240z?

Should have plenty of room to remove them...

Guesstimate on shipping from CA to San Diego, CA? Block price sounds fine, just curious if shipping that thing down here would be equally pricey... Getting the funds together is no problem.

I would start by checking your fuses and wiring connections... break out the multimeter and make sure your ECU is getting power, fuel pump etc.

I just use 2 standard automotive relays found at any auto store in my car. As far as the brown box... I don't even use it (or know what it is for that matter) it did not plug into any part of the harness that my swap had. If you want to to use it, let me know and I will send you mine for cost of shipping.

I wouldn't say forget about the N1, for a basic rebuild I think it would suit most people's needs, and I am not sure why you would use a stock pump over a N1 pump if you are doing such a build, esp considering its cheap price. Granted if you are considering a JUN/Tomei/HKS/Greddy/Nismo then yeah, don't even consider the N1 because it is in a completely different class.

So the Nissan 15213-21001 part is the key to using any spin-on and removing the stock oil cooler... Where did you order yours from and for how much? Also did you have to block the 4 bolt holes that are used to hold on the stock cooler or do they not pass through the block? Edit: Nevermind, looks like it is a common $5 part Thanks -Chris

Curious... what manifold did they use for the 35R on the RB26? Is it in a S30?

I would hop on a RB30 group buy

I must be missing something.... What are you guys using to replace the water-to-oil oil cooler? I see the spin-on parts to add AN fittings so you can run lines to a filter relocation and then to an air-to-oil cooler but what piece are you bolting to the block that eliminates the water-to-oil piece? On my R33 RB26 this piece looks like it is bolted to the block with 4 bolts, not spun on like all the adapters. I have not taken this piece off, so unsure what is on the back side of it... I have one of the spin-on Earl's adapters that Joel posted and use it as part of my PH8 oil filter relocation, but that just spins onto the factory cooler. I now have a 2nd gen RX-7 oil cooler that I want to add, and ideally eliminate the water-to-oil cooler completely. Also are you guys running the filter before or after the air-to-oil cooler? (filtered right out of the block or right before going into the block)

I would just get the GT2860's either the -7 if you want better spool or the -5 if you want more power. My current planned turbo upgrade is to get -5s. I <3 Garrett

What he said

Dash looks good stony. Are you going to be at MCAS Miramar in San Diego?

Congrats! Can't wait to see what you guys do with that car in future races.