nismoluv

Sorry, you bought a 2+2... That being said, the shop manual can be found at https://www.xenonzcar.com/s130.html The engines in these are stout and can take some abuse. The fragile bits IMO are the fuel system. Just start slow, inspect everything, and take pictures. People liked to hack up wiring and cobble things together cause they didn't understand it or they couldn't afford the parts. Another thing to check before you start dropping money into it is the floorboards and frame rails. Take that windshield out and save the metal under it. I can guarantee you it's rotted out and letting water under you dash into the wiring and such. Pay someone to take it out properly, the trim is fragile too dont start yanking on it. Good luck, current state of my 18 year project attached...

Here's the bracket I have currently modeled. working on a duct attachment. Itll look like an exhaust tip cut at 45 degree, and a 90 degree bend. working on the end piece, after I am done "working from home"

My current model is bolting a slim bracket to the back of the brake caliper bracket. Remove one bolt, loosen the other. (Pictures later). This will eliminate the need to remove the rotor for those of us that previously could not remove the rusted on dust shield and opted to drillout the screws, making the holes unusable with out some rethreading (too much work). The issue I have with this current idea is that the bracket gets a little flimsy in places and when i bulk it up it looks dumb. If i look at making cut outs like the shelby stuff, i can make things look more attactive. Although the shelby stuff look a little too big. The main thing is I have two bolts to bolt this thing too and its a little chunky on the other aide of the mounting bolts. An idea I am entertaining is a clamp on the strut that has a bar that you clamp the brake duct too. I think thats the simplest thing i can think of. Any thoughts.

So I have made progress on 3d modeling the parts. I am on my third iteration, slowly making the part smaller and easier to fabricate. This I just saw this from Carrol Shelby. Notice the cut out for the steering linkage. Now I have to have a re-think. https://www.carrollshelbyracing.com/store/p356/Brake_Duct_Cooling_Kit.html

I like what skillard is doing but some of the stuff is butt ugly. Sorry.

Correct, the backing plate will have a half moon type shape cut out to allow the air to enter the center of the rotor. Hopefully ill have some time to week to digitize this, it'll make sense.

The way i was routing it before, the cross section was smaller (less volume) for longer and it was a half moon type shape. it was getting more complicated when at full lock. going vertical i can get to a larger cross section and clear the sway bar sooner. or so i think. fusion 360 and 3d printing to start before making it out of something more metal

Heres my crazy contraction i came up with last night. Seems to clear everything. Put on your imagination glasses and imagine organic 3d printed shapes.

I should have been more clear when saying going vertical. I should have added vertically down the back of the plate entering the center of the rotor. Once i get these in cad i can make them more curvy and organic to increase the volume.

These look great, gives me some ideas to play with. Here is my current space to work with. I was going to connect the ducting straight into the center of the rotor. But i like the idea of coming down vertically into/thru the shield. There is about an inch from the sway bar to the cardboard mockup "shield"

Hello everybody, its been awhile. I have been thinking about designing some front brake backing plates/dust shields with cooling ducts. My backing plates where mangled and discarded long ago so I have nothing to compare my cardboard mockups with. I am have some clearance issues with the sway bar which narrows down to an inch or so. I am wondering is anyone has any pictures of cooling ducts or modified backing plates on the ZX.

Its been awhile since I have looked at the Megaquirt systems, there a a few different ones now-a-days. On some of the models the tach gauge signal wire is re-routed to the MS box. Or you should be able to splice in the ignition signal before it gets to the MS box. Either way its not so plug and play. How are you liking the MS, smoother running, easier DIY tuning? I have been wanting to do it to my mustang project.

I would like to see a photo of your calipers. I dont think banjos have been used on any of the s130's. I had a hell of a time a few years ago getting any calipers. I was sent several wrong sets. I wouldn't be surprised if you got your hands on the wrong ones as well. I will even put my shoes on and take the rear wheels off to compare the calipers.

I'm going to guess since I don't see the other end of that connector in my rats nest. I think it's a connector for the radio, or audio controls

This is the front brake from an 83, it's the same hose as the back but longer. I am too lazy to take the back wheels off. It's also the same on an 81. Those are the only years I am certain of. Threaded on both sides. Hopefully this helps.

In these days of on going boredom, waiting for parts, and rationing toilet paper, I found myself reading wikipedia. Reading the same articles I always do. I found an interesting portion of the article that I have never heard before. The s30 guys love telling me the rear trailing suspension sucks therefore your car sucks. I have never had a problem with the suspension or the oversteer. Has anyone ever heard about this revised rear suspension in `81? If so, what was the change, and does it improve the geometry? Sorry for the sporadic thoughts and musings, I may have opened the beer fridge a few cuckoos shy of beer thirty.

I was on the bus today and saw a ZX. Luckily he was at a red light so I could get a good look. I saw a filler panel filling in the gap from the removal of the bumper. Is this still being made or was it a custom job.

I recall someone mentioning that they made their own out of rubber or something. I think it was in one of the ls1 swap post. I think it was done for clearance. Ill see if I can find the poster. If you look at the joint, it looks fairly easy to just replace the rubber bit. I recently replaced my mustang steering shaft with a solid shaft (no rubber rag joint) and the steering is now super crisp. You can actually "feel" the road now.

What joint did you end up using. I am having problems finding the right spline count joint

The pan is jegs 555-50229 and was $240.94. Its good quality. The down side is that it uses a remote filter. I got their easy kit which comes with everything need for the install. This pans front sump is 3/4 inch deep plus aluminum thickness. I hope this helps with your own research.

Your my hero...

So far this year I have gotten a LQ4 mocked up. This allowed me to make some measurements for clearances. I ended up using an oil pan from Jegs, it seems to be perfect, and cost effective. This is just a mock up and I still need to install the heavy duty washer for the engine mounts, which should give me a touch more clearance from the steering rack. Its hard to see in the picture but there is about 1/2 inch clearance, is that enough? The issues I am currently investigating is a cheap solution to the intake manifold clearing the hood. Should I spend 600 bucks for an intake or 600 bucks to have the hood modified? I think the hood should stay about the same for sleeper potential and road visibility.

I have been slowly working on my 83 for a LS swap. Related to the headers that you used, I have been thinking of just adding a steering shaft joint just to get a few inches. Do you think that would work, if you got an inch or so extra clearance for the headers. Also what headers did you end up using?

I have been going back and forth about what kind of engine to put back into my 1983 ZX for years (almost a decade. First it was SBC (too ordinary), then I thought it would be easier to put the original one back in (too expensive, I have no engine), now Im thinking about stealing my wifes 1994 Mustang GT engine and transmission and putting it the ZX. I found these parts which will help. Also I have driven the mustang and I can take anything I need out of it. Have any of you used these mounts or cross members before? Just wondering if I'll ever get started on this project. http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Ford-Weld-In-Motor-Mounts,1376.html http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Small-Block-Ford-Crossmember-Motor-Mount,3274.html

I happen to have these springs with the tokico HP struts, also I have the silver and blue door panels you mentioned in another post. I'm selling the whole car though. If you are interested in the whole car PM me, for pics and such.