wrxand280z

I'm running a T56 with the stock gm clutch and stock datsun master cylinder and I LOVE the way it shifts. The clutch is super smooth and lite, and the gears just slide into place. So people don't like to shift as much but I only drive mine on the weekends etc, and I like having the option to either gear down for some fun or put it in 6th and cruise on. Plus on the free way it rocks having a 6th gear. It lowers the noise in the cabin and gets better mpg, espcially when running high test this is a good thing. However the install would be much easier (and cheaper) with a T-5, I wanted my HybridZ to be what I wanted so I put a T56. Both trannies have their ups and downs. To me the T56 was the choice. It has a better life expectancy (with large HP) and its "different". IMO create the car that you want, you're the one thats got to drive it everyday.

I call that a death trap. One blip of the throttle and the car would flip over.

I was hoping to hear that "oh all you need to do is put a retaining clip on the throw out bearing". It sounds like I need to pull the motor and trans.

I have a T56 on a 78 350. I put everything together and took it for a spin and I heard these loud bumping noises. So I figured it was the trans hitting the trans tunnel. So I massaged the tunnel so it doesn't rub any more and its still making the noise. I stuck my hand on different areas of the car and the thumping noise is definitely coming from inside the bell housing. I used all brand new parts from GM. The only think I can think that it would be is the throw out bearing. Is there supposed to be a clip or something that keeps it in place? The noise only happens when the clutch is disengaged (i.e. foot off of the petal). If I depress the clutch the noise goes away. I did not use a stub when putting the friction disc in but I pulled the bell housing off and stuck input shaft into the flywheel for alignment. My buddy thinks that it might be because I did not use this tool but I can't see why that would be. Please help. Joe

I paid $5,700 for my 78 280z in Dec. of 06. I know some may think its high but all it needed was one frame rail replaced. The only body work experiance I have is hitting sheet metal with a hammer I figured its best to start with a good platform.

Shortpump is the area that Victory Nissan is located in (i.e. queens, Harlem). It seems everyone is coming from the north for the most part. We could meet in Ashland, which I believe is exit 92. There is a cracker barrel there right off of the interstate. Or we could just meet up at the event.

Thanks for all the help guys. I adjusted the clutch and as soon as I turned the car on it started grinding. Which told me it was in the clutch. I was almost to the point of pulling the trans out of the car, when I decided to take a look up into the trans through the throwout arm hole. I saw the culprit immediatly. I did not tighten the throwout arm bolt 5 years ago and the throw out arm was draging on the pressure plate. So instead of pulling the trans by myself I spent 4 hours tighting one bolt. I then re-attached the slave cylinder and found out that had blown. I'm gonna pick up another sc tonight and see if it will fly.

Any help?

I'm gonna go even if the Z can make it. I know richmond is having open runs this Sunday. One of my friends is running a Mustang thats blown and juiced.

I've installed my slave cylinder on my T56 and I"m using the stock master cylinder. I test ran the motor to see if I could press the clutch and put the car in gear and when I pushed the clutch in the motor died. So for the next run I ran the motor at 1000rpm and pushed on the clutch and I heard a bit of scraping noise. Is that because I'm not getting enough travel in the sc? It doesn't make the noise unless I"m pressing the clutch. How do I know if the clutch is properly bled?Also I've searched on how to adjust the clutch and I've seen a lot on people needing to but I can't find out how to adjust the clutch. I know I should not have more than 2" of free play and no less than 1/4" but when I look at the rod that goes through the firewall it only has like 1/4" of adjustment? Is this the rod I"m suppose to adjust? Thanks for the help I'm trying to get the car back on the road without having to replace the mc.

I've got to do the wiring and exhaust this week but I'm trying to get my mint 78 to the show.

Is there supposed to be some sort of spacer between the clutch slave and the fork? Or am I supposed to just use 2 nuts on each stud? If so how far back should I start with?

Did you see the weight to horsepower. 2.33lbs per hp!!!!

Man thats a great looking engine bay Sorry I understand why it would work on your cars. You are running fuel injection where I'm running a carb for a SBC. I would think that the extra fuel pressure would flood the carb. Or do you think that it would work on a carburated engine? I don't know much about fuel systems but if the regulator is restricting the pressure to 6.5psi to the return line all of the pressure before the return line would be the same pressure as it would be coming from the pump thus flooding the carb. Am I correct in saying this?

Sorry to bring up an old tread, but the way he plans on running the fuel regulator after the return line wouldn't that mean that all of the fuel would be routed back to the fuel tank vs going to the carb? I would think that you would need to run a bypass regulator with one line going to the carb and the other to the return line. If you can run the lines like he has it it would save about 70 bucks for a bypass regulator vs a two port regulator.

Thanks for all of the feed back. I guess I will reuse the stock lines for now using a 10psi fuel pump and a fuel regulator. Can I pull out the vapor line? Or does it need to be plumbed so the tank can vent?

Sorry if this has already been answered but I have done 3-4 searches and I can't seem to find the answer. I'm running a sbc with an edelbrock carb and I know my 280z fuel pump will not work as it is. 1. Should I replace the fuel pump with an aftermarket fuel pump or should I get a fuel by pass regulator that regulates the pressure to 6.5psi and returns the rest to the pump for cooling? 2. If I replace the fuel up with an inline pump I know I need a regulator and gauge. What do I do with the other two lines? 3. What are the other 2 lines used for? I know ones a return line but whats the 3rd line used for and do I need it? Thanks, Joe

What no pics?!?!?!

I don't know what the head number is but its stock

So I'm finaly starting work on my 280z with a sbc/t56. I pulled the old motor and trans yesterday and prepped the engine bay for the install tomorrow. The questions is what am I supposed to do with the old engine and tranny. Does any know what this combo is going for? It runs great and I didn't cut the wire harness up so its all there. It has about 165,000 miles.

Update: I have got them working. Turns out that one of the wires under the hood was corroded at the relay with the white caps. I sanded them and plugged it back up and they work great.

Please help. I just bought my 1978 Datsun and the parking lights work as well as the brake and turning signals but I cannot get the Headlights to come on. NOTE: they turned on once after I had been messing with it but once I turned the switch off again the Lights never came back on. I have checked all of the fuses and they are good ( the ones by the passanger seat) Are there other fuses that I am not aware of? Some one said that it might be in the switch or it might be in a relay? if so where would this relay be?