Geno750

I'm really curious about that fuel filler setup you have going on, and what you settle on for the dbw throttle pedal. You're right, the Z one is kinda out of place down there. I'm using a 350Z pedal and tb, and looking at options.

7M-GTE CPS or replace the cover on the distributor and use it as a CPS sensor. Drift motion makes the cover, the 7M CPS is getting harder to find.

I've been wanting to do this for a while. I've already swapped to a dbw throttle body so front wheel speed is all that's needed for me to setup traction control.

New job has had me busy till recently. Might have to do some work on the hood latch. If I wasn't running IGN1A's this wouldn't be an issue. Main thing is it's in there and it's straight. Also started on the rear end.

I'm putting one behind my JZ. You'll want a 4.1 or higher final drive if you want normal gearing with most of the available gear ratios. Shifter alignment with the stock hole is actually pretty good. Especially when you get the motor as far back in the engine bay as possible.

It depends to be honest. I was in a unique spot and had a guy wanting my 1JZ head for a 1.5JZ. I wanted to build up the block and head to ensure I could have a longer powerband, and it seemed easier to just start with a better flowing head with a lot more aftermarket options. Doing it all at once meant I could do things like buy 11.5:1 pistons which only net you a static cr somewhere around 9.2:1 with the 2JZ head.

The block is physically longer on the 2JZ so it's water neck outlet was designed around the longer pipe. The flange where it bolts to the head is also different. I ran into a few interesting issues when doing a 2JZ head swap into my 1JZ block and that was one of them. Here's an older photo to show it's doable with the right combination of parts.

Yeah I'm going to weld it. I've put the motor about 2cm off the firewall.

Two foot surgeries later, I can work on the car in spurts before having to take a break. Here's what I've done over the last few weeks. Finished making the TR6060 from Oz into a T56 Magnum (only better). Got my twinplate clutch in. Went with a Spec twin, and I'll be using a Tilton slave to avoid the disaster that plagues the Spec TOB's. The Spec and like most other twin plate clutches use a thin flywheel that isn't compatible with the standard bolts we buy. Not wanting to grind on ARP flywheel bolts, or buy a set that someone else ground away on I went through the ARP catalog and found these. ARP Part number is 204-2801. Requires a 12mm triple square to install. They're the ideal bolt for this flywheel. Standard bolt is the 12pt, Overkill Z's reproduction of the Betamotorsports crossmember. It required a bit of flex on the factory motor mounts to get it to bolt in all the way, but it fits much better than the CX Racing mount. However, install on a 280Z is a little trickier than I initially thought. Turns out the cups for the tension arm are a bit different on the 280Z and interfere with the crossmember quite a bit. The driver's side isn't too bad, and requires a small trim. The black sharpie tick mark you see is 13.5" away from the firewall. I wanted to get as close to that mark as possible. The passenger side on the other hand, required a lot of trimming. I would have to cut into the reinforced area to get to my 13.5" goal, instead I'm settling for 14" from the firewall, which will put the back of the block 1" away. Now I'm off to get some more c-clamps because my harbor freight wood working clamps aren't going to cut it on the next step of the project.

I've been wondering the same thing about the stubs. If yours are out, take measurements. I've got my S15 helical and stubs on my work bench and can compare.

I didn't like a lot of things with the mounts. The biggest were how far forward the motor sits, the positioning/lean of the engine in the bay. I can confirm that the Supra store and Greddy manifolds fit with a larger turbo than a GT35 series on them. So if you go that route you'll be fine.

I'd avoid any of the log manifolds, like the PHR street torque. Also, if you haven't bought the CX mounts yet, I'm going to be selling mine. I switched to the weld in crossmember style mount.

In the grand scheme of things, the cost to balance a rotating assembly is pretty low, and is worth doing. Especially if you're changing out the clutch/flywheel and crank pulley (unless using a Fluidampr pulley).

Hey at least you can use your printer to make a pedal stop.