Geno750

Interesting ecu, but it's more than what I paid for the infinity6, which has very similar features.

The biggest one for me is really situational. I'm going to be swapping in my abs r200 from my 180SX into my car via the t3 kit. I've designed a mount that will let me put a proximity hall effect sensor on the front hubs (picks up the two piece rotor bolts). With that I'll be able to record the speed of the powered and non powered wheels and will have traction control via the infinity 6.

I've actually got an infinity 6 for my 1JZ. I've been building my own harness since its pretty easy. If you're buying a wiring harness you don't need the mini harness. The infinity has some neat features I didn't find in the mega squirt. It's a solid unit to go with.

I'd really be interested in knowing the thread size and pitch of the rear housing.

I'm only interested in their axles and the backing plates. I have all of the other components from my other car. Including new wheel bearings and Z32 rear brake assembly's.

I'll go with T3 back plates, use a 240sx hub and t3 shortened axles. 29spline parts should last longer and from what I've seen, T3's solution is by far cheaper while offering what seems like a better option.

Yeah. I'm lucky/unlucky and know the exact miles on my 180SX diff. I wadded up the 180SX the diff came from, car had just over 47k miles. The VLSD will simply hold me over until I find a deal on a 1.5way. If using the vlsd from my shortnose in the longnose will let me use the 180SX stub axles then great, I won't buy a shortnose mount (unless there's an advantage to be had here.), I'll just buy the t3 axles.

After surgery to my foot I've had way too much free time on my hands to read/research but not turn a wrench, so forgive any ignorance on my part with a few of these questions. First assumption - all 1976 280Z's have R200 longnose rear ends. Second assumption - All VLSD R200's from a 180SX are 29 spline. But does this really matter in the long run? (see below). I'm trying to do this correctly the first time. My big question is if I go with the T3 back plates to use later model hubs, can I simply swap to whatever R200 diff I want, use the correct input shafts for that diff in my 76's long nose and be good to go with the T3 axles? I've tried to search for this answer but the information is somewhat convoluted at best. Worst case, this thread will document my trials and tribulations of attempting this swap my self. Next question, and somewhat related. Is there a strength advantage (long or short nose, I have both) to how the diff is mounted to the car? My Z has a 1JZGTE and will exceed 450ft/lb of torque once the fuel system is upgraded to use E85. I'd prefer to install whichever diff will be held in more securely.

I'm using 1200CC injectors, but I'm also going to be using E85. I shaved down the stock plastic standoffs to get the fuel rail and injectors to sit right and seal against the intake manifold. For other mods I'm using a fuel lab adjustable fpr. Probably going to use a nuke performance surge tank or I'll sump the stock tank.

If you're planning on doing top feed EV14 style injectors(ID1000, FIC, DP, etc.), take a look at the drift motion rail. It's probably the best one available for the non vvti 1JZ in the US, and it's well priced. Fitment is great, but depending on injector length, you will have to sand down the stock standoffs to fit.

I had a Nismo twin on my SR for years and it wasn't that bad. I've driven 6 and 4 puck clutch setups that were much worse.

I've got the V1 maverick kit. I also had their SR20 kit, which is my my bell housing is machined. If you need big power handling capability, go with the spec twin disc designed for this swap. Also the new version of the maverick kit no longer requires machining.

I think you mean a dual mass flywheel. The conversion flywheels look thick enough to push the disk out far enough to engage the splines on the transmission.

The guys putting VQ35/37's into the S30 don't have to do much to fit the motor in with the trans. Seems like you can "massage" the firewall/tunnel area with a bfh and be okay.

Speedhut gauges are what I'm using. 4" Speedo and tach. 2 5/8 inch boost, oil p, and water. My Speedhut Speedo uses GPS, has indicator and high beam indicators and a built in fuel gauge. They are also incredibly customizable.

I think your inbox is full. Could you pm me?

Depending on how well you can fab, the easiest option would be buying the ic from McKinney motorsports. They make one specifically for our cars. For your turbo vs hp goals, check the new S300sx-e line from bw. The smallest one is more than capable of hitting your power goals. Your injectors are either too big or too small. If you're trying to go E85, go with a 1200cc ev14 type of injector. If you're sticking with 93oct, 600cc injectors would work.

So since you're using the igniter, follow option 4 from the directions. You'll use the ecu tach signal wire(should be pin 16), a 12v wire and the resistor they included with the gauge. Wire it up as shown in the picture.

I've got a good one from my 76z. My only reason for removing it is I'm going with a speedhut gauge. $75 shipped to you.

I've got a running L28 which I'm pulling from my 76 280z. Engine is located in Aurora, CO

I have a running L28 I'm about to remove from my 76 280Z, located in Colorado.

This is situational, I wanted the option for a twin plate clutch, which from Collins requires using an auto flex plate and an adapter. The custom flywheels are likely just a dual mass flywheel drilled to accept the 1JZ bolt pattern crank and accept a 350z clutch and pressure plate. SPEC actually makes a twin plate clutch specifically for someone running a CD00X gearbox on a JZ engine. I'll post up the model of the clutch when I get home.

So there are now a few ways to do this now. Collins offers two different kits, one of which doesn't require machining the bellhousing. There is also a kit offered by maverick motorsports that requires machining 3/8 of an inch from the bellhousing. Both Collins and maverick offer conversion flywheels that let you run a 350z clutch. Personally I'd go with the maverick setup and machine the housing. It's what I'm using on my 1JZ

To re-iterate, they're very good about custom stuff. I wanted my 10K rpm tach to resemble the stock one regarding how the area around the redline looked. I think they did a great job.

I hope to have the answer to that question soon. I've been waiting on the 1JZ to 350z transmission adapter I ordered so I can place the engine in the car with the trans.