rdsk8ter

Ok this question really has no huge rush but I cant find the answer and its buggin me. On my trottlebody (twin 58mm for tpi) it has a cover on top, it is just a hollow void but it opens into the throttle body. There is a gasket and everything. I looked at the factory one also and it has the same opening. Im lost wtf is this for? Im guessing a diffrent application might need this open for a sensor or something? Im wondering could I fill in that hole and not worry about it? Thanks again

Thats a good way to discribe the diffrence

interested in the ridged pipe?

buy the kit bending the pipe isnt something you want to take on

buy the kit

home depot doesnt carry dom that im aware of????????? do they

I want to say Im sorry. I just dont want anyone to get hurt or cause damage to there house, but I will keep my professional advise to myself.

yea about this I couldnt find this pipe at home depot I had to go to a metal shop

If your not in a huge rush i might be able to come up with some ridged metal 2" conduite peices for you stuff is way strong might take a couple months to get a couple like 4' pieces. then you would have to swing by to grab it

Yeah Im still trying to decide how I want to build the motor Ive been doing alot alot of reading and alot of asking of the "what would you do diffrent" and am getting closer to a choice. I know the block I have will limit my potential but I regretfully wouldnt have the money to go anyother method at this point.

I want to avoid nos never really been a fan call me nuts but I just done really care for it maybe someday though. Ok probably by the time its running ill want it but as of now I think ill be good

there is a long formula for voltage drop you can use or you can just go with the rule of thumn that says for every 100' go up a wire size and youll be golden

im not running either yet but if a dual 58 will work then sweetness

thats what i didnt want to hear but i guess its what i needed to hear. What about exhaust would a single 4" oval be good for the flow

ok im running 3" would a 58mm work? or do I need larger? my math says a 76 ish carry the one lol

Whats the best way to size a throttlebody for my application? sbc 383 lt1 intake (could go aftermarket up to 90mm) turbo (s400) on about 8-10 psi Ideally 600rwhp range but want the capibility of more.

this from a guy named pyro lol odd isnt it? it wont blow you up but could damage ther wiring in the house. Please dont take this advice if you are reading this

according to the nameplate it uses 24 amps Nec requires you to go off the nameplate where applicable I have more infor then just whats on here he gave me the model number I pulled up the info on it and got the nameplate. Because It is capable of running for more then 3 hours it has to be caulculated at 125% and sized to the next overcurrent device witch is 30 amps sorry I forgot he sent the model info to me over a pm just read that. but never the less he needs a 30 amp circiut. BAD BAD BAD dont even think about this this is just as bad if not worse then double tapping the breaker.

God dam thats sexy as hell im drooling overhere

Wow I dont even know where to start. He needs a 30 amp circiut. The circiut has to be rated as a continuious load 125% of the rated capacity. This puts his 24 amp welder to a 30 amp circiut. The panel is maxed at this point due to the rest of the breakers being GFCI breakers. The walls apear to be finished so the wire will have to be either fished in to a remo box, or put in a conduit due to the lack of experiance on his part its alot easier to do it this way. The flex connector is the insulating bushing in this case. I would say this thread has been resolved at this time

Ive got the pipe mocked up just need to get the flange. Here are two locations I'm considering (I held a peice of pipe to see rough size. pipe is longer then BOV but it gets you the idea. Here it is visable Here it is not I dont Know where I should put this Im up for ideas too. Here are some Pics Of the Pipe yes It will be into the intake. The new intake Is slightly lower. Next is fun with heat shields and wrap lol.

Well got the down pipe almost done I need to go through and clean everything up down pipe headers charge pipe etc etc and get them ready for ceramic coating. Here is how Im going to be running the charge pipe. Picked up some mandrel bend 3" aluminum 90s at a killer price Down pipe to 4" v band flange Charge pipe Pardon the pipe not lining up but heres what Im going to do with the last part to the intake. Now i just need to find someone to weld aluminum for free......lol

cool cool thanks

I didnt notice that. well that means you need to change a cord witch voids all warrentys or by a small piece of so cord and two cord ends a 30 amp to plug in the outlet and a 15 amp the matches the appliance. You will have to use common sence here and know if the cords nicked or hurt or the appliance is acting wierd unplug it

I ment on your down pipe sorry