rdsk8ter

I doubt the fabris from the couch is uv rated so in a year or so it may change colors on you

funny I have a 30 amp air compressor and a 30 amp welder Ive wired several hundred 30 amp air compressors it is fairly standard. welders you go off the nameplate you only have to do caulcs if its 2 or more welders fed off the same service. a 30 amp circiut requires #10 thhn per 310.16 of the NEC. you will be fine running them both off the one line at seperate times. He is limited to the one outlet due to the rest of the breakers being gfci breakers and no more room on the bus. Adding a sub panel would be a very bad idea here. Get your welder and make sure 30 amps will be good for it( like i said it will say on the nameplate. often found on the back or inside door.)

What he is saying is the run two seperate 220v circiuts witch is over your skill leven just run the one and plug and un plug whatever you need at the time

do you have any type of a flex pipe on the hot side I dont see one. From what i have been told I need to have one to avoid putting to much stress on the pipe, turbo and what not is this true?

Ok you have enough room to add the 220 outlet what you need to do is get some twin breakers square d qo style move the two reds circled onto the left twin breaker move the two blue to the bottom twin breakerturn them back on this will leave 2 open slots for a square d qo breaker 2 pole 30 amp. Get some 1/2 flex about the length you need to get the plug where you need it. Get a small roll of 10-3 nmb cable and shove it throught the flex (before you mount it). you will also need a couple flex connectors and enough straps to secure it every 3 feet. you will need a 4 square deep box a single gang mud ring and a recepticle that matches your cord end (the recepticle cannot exceed 30 amps!!!) dont forget a cover plate too. you will need to cut some drywall below an open knockout in the bottom of the panel about 8" down 1 " wide(ish). run the wires up the green and the white need to go onto the ground bar under there own lugs do not double any wires!!!! then land the hots qo breakers are like caddys you are very safe with them. again I still say you should call a sparky to help you out they will without permits but it might cost a little more

I have decided Im going to build a heat sheild to isolate the wastegate. I also plan to have the feed pipe ceramic coated to help with the heat. Heres a mounted pic. I was only able to get about a 35-40 degree angle. I really wanted a 45 but there is just no way

lol lmfao rotfl wow thats good

lookin great

Picked up a tial 38mm wastegate here is the mounting area im going to plumb it in tomorrow short amount of pipe too only like a foot worst case too so flow shouldnt be an issue at all. best part this baby was only 175

drop american muscle into it lol

couldnt tell from the pics.

I got some more done on the hotside feed pipe. I still need to add the wastegate tube though. That being said what size pipe is ideal for this? Also I know I need to leave the main tube at a 45 degree angle but can I have anouther 45 degree ish (depending on what bend is needed to have the wastegate level) in the same pipe? Here is what I have so Far

is that hotside cracked? looks like its been repaired?

what brand of pannel is it? most of the breakers are avalible in 1/2 size breakers. I wouldnt reccomend you plug a 15 amp into a 30amp recepticle. You wont get hurt from it unless something goes wrong inside of the appliance. a 210 amp lol sorry for being a little blunt but thats not what it draws look for a nameplate and it will have a spot that says max circiut ampacity or ocpd size if you need help shoot me a message I am an electrical contractor and am more then willing to help you however I can.

I got my turbo feed pipe started heres some pics. I will smooth the welds out later but just getting everything fitted for now and checking for leaks tomorrow ( I should say fixing leaks tommorrow lol theres gotta be some but its late and I'm tired). Heres a picture to show how the pipes merge together. They are open in the center. I still have got to grind down the extra metal inside but my neighbors would kill me if kicked on the die grinder now lol Please dont make fun of my welds, the only welder I have to use doent have gas lol. They are not very sexy but I got good strong welds there.

any chance i could get you to measure the 4" oval for me width and height if you get a chance

is the exhaust going to clear the starter? are you going undes the frame? very clean job very sexy

arnt you worried about hitting the it looks fairly low (o2 sensor) what size pipe are you running out? looks like 3"?

the speaker fas a little red the amp is sliver a brutis amp

ya this project is kinda on the back burner until i decide this. Im thinking I want some kind of red accent back there but just dont know what i want to do. there will also be red accents on the doors, seats and like I said embrorded in the dash will be a red s130 nordskog gauges with red arms. so ye I kinda think there needs to be something back there

wow thats some good reading I dont think that its that hard though and it should be worth it in the long run. I think ill run first gen heads but I still need to do more looking up of things

that kicks not hard enough lol freaking bastage lol thanks again you guys rock

heres the newest pics started the Ic piping lol ony about an hour into it had to cut a bunch of sheet metal

thanks guys I am glad to have a for sure solution for this problem before the above happened.... good pic too. Well I guess ill take it to the TPIS sight to see what they reccomend for intake and heads. can I run the intake of a lt1 or is that diffrent too? I will give my buddy a swift kick to the balls for telling me it can be done

im still doing more research A good buddy told me it is the same block but yea I always have to see it done first lol