MONZTER

I have been running an aluminum radiator on my Z for years with no rubber isolators, and no problems.

FYI 6/10/10 Koyo is proud to introduce an all aluminum performance radiator for the 1970-1978 Datsun 240Z, 260Z, and 280Z with manual transmissions. Koyo engineers have designed some unique features into this brand new model. Unlike the traditional downflow style of the OEM Datsun radiator, the Koyo performance radiator is manufactured with a robust 53mm crossflow core design. Another unique feature is the integrated 1/8†NPT female accessory fitting located near the top inlet tube. This fitting (supplied with a threaded plug) will accept a 1/8†NPT temperature sensor supplied with most aftermarket temperature gauges, or may even accept a coolant line for aftermarket turbochargers. Every Koyo All Aluminum Performance radiator is engineered in Japan, precision welded and polished by hand, and are a direct fit in the vehicle’s factory location for an easy installation. Koyo’s global reputation for high quality cooling products begins with the selection of the finest materials. Koyo privately owns each factory, never outsources their manufacturing and overseeing each stage of production using Japanese made equipment throughout the production of each radiator. Koyorad All Aluminum Performance Radiators are hand assembled, precision TIG welded, and triple pressure tested throughout the manufacturing process contributing to reliability and uniformity. The superior quality of Koyorad all aluminum radiators will take your vehicle’s engine performance to the next level. Features: • Koyo “R-Series†Technology • Crossflow Design • OE Specific mounting • Mirror polished finish • Nocolok-R Brazing • Precise Tube and Fin alignment • Billet aluminum filler neck • 1/8†NPT Accessory Fitting and threaded plug • Billet aluminum drain plug Application: 1970-1978 Datsun 240Z, 260Z, and 280Z MT Koyo Part Number #: R022352 Available: Now Info: www.koyoradracing.com Contact: info@koyoradracing.com

What you guys are seeing in the header is the merge collector. This is a cone produced from the intersecting of the primaries. Check out these links http://www.spdexhaust.com/ http://www.burnsstainless.com I have gotten to know Jack Burns from Burns stainless pretty well. He has in great depth explained some of his theory of header design and merge collectors. He says 6 into 1 is never a good solution unless it’s very high in the RPM range that you want your torque curve. The large volume of the 6 into 1 slows the gasses down too much at lower speeds and the torque curve is not as broad. On an engine like ours, he recommends 3 into 2 into 1. So 3 matched cylinders into 1 and then the pair into each other. This should give a broader torque curve and more scavenging down lower. Now this is assuming we are building anything other than a Dyno motor right

Nice reading and well done. My quick comment is summed up by the quantity of material you have found. Simply, there is no 1 magic bullet that gives them the power. It is the well planned out, focused details in all of the parts. The sum of the whole is made from the parts. Everything is designed to work together, and when it is done correctly, the hp numbers don't lie. I'm sure I have some stuff to add, but its late. Jeff

Yep, Hoov is correct, The custom backing plate ties it all together

You asked for pictures, maybe too many? click on any picture to go to my gallery with more details

Here is an IGES for you. Its what I designed and used for my header. I have a round port also if you need it. header_flange.zip

Also, I have posted these pics before. But here is my 240 NA head with 36cc welded chambers and 280 size valves. making the chambers smaller and giving it squish is the same thing Kameari are doing. Someday I will do some real valve and port work on this thing with a 3.0 under it, that should be fun. I have seen some pics that Braap has done with welded chambers as well, nice stuff.

Hey Guys, here is some nice big pics of my Rebello head. Listen to the specs, maybe interesting Valve seats are Oversized Kamearie for the 46 and 38mm valves, You can see them overlapping in the picture. I also have the Kamearie shortened special material valve guides. So I talk to Dave a bunch about this, and here is what he did. We ran the oversized valve seats and matched/ blended the port bowls into them. However, We stayed with the stock size intake on the oversized seat. Dave said going bigger on the intake shouds the valve too much and felt the smaller valve with the big seat would flow better. Did the same thing on the exhaust, but went 1mm oversized there. This head is also set-up with their 10 bizzillion RPM springs and titanium retainers. Any thoughts on the oversized seats? Jeff

I dont remember exactly what it cost, but I have a crank,rods and pistons getting done now. I will find out. When its done he first matches the rods, big ends then small ends. Next pistons. The crank is then done and zeroed out. He then puts on the flywheel and checks it, then the pulley. I think its all pretty standard stuff. any good machine shop can do this.

That broken crank was exactly the same as mine that broke. same place, same look. This was a stock motor factory balanced. Like I said I could feel the buzz over 7000. My new balanced set-up no longer has the buzz, and has not yet broke

Attached is the print of the Pulley I worked with ATI to custom build. A very nice part, but like I said, not cheap. I guess it was cheaper than another broken crank. I have not used it yet so I cant give you guys a report of its benefits SK050M-Model per changes.pdf

On my engine, I am not sure what the numbers were as far as balance, but I know the machinist is very particular and gets it very close. I am running only a pulley because I just did not care. I cant say I would recommend it. In fact, for my turbo motor I had a custom ATI pulley/balancer made. It uses a serpentine belt and has the TEC pickup wheel built in. A very nice part. I actually think I have just been lucky so far and it is just a matter of time. On the stock bottom end, when I first put on the modified head and fuel injection, you could feel the vibrations starting at 7000. Guess what happened? at the auto cross the engine went boom. I brought it home and realized the flywheel should not turn independently of the front pulley. Yes, snapped the crank at the last rod. I think part of the broken crank is on the counter at Motorsport auto. So , the new bottom end all balanced out has a totally different feel and no vibration.

I have been running a pulley and no balancer for years now, and bring it up to 8000 on a regular basis. Never any problems. Now the internals are all balanced out very close, or maybe just luck, maybe just a matter of time..

I simply dont have time to make anything right now, Its been a busy 6 months. I would be happy to share any cad files or take more photos if anyone needs info to make their own. Jeff

I looked forever to find something close with no luck. I ended up modifying the stock mounts by cutting up the brackets and welding a tube to them the size to fit some urethane moustache bushings. I then made a simple u shaped bracket to accept it. Pics below. The trans mount was way more involved as I moved the motor back and inch as well as using a 240sx gear box. The bushings are urethane from a late model 240 crossmember. Just some ideas for you to think about

You can actually rent a Dewar from Praxair in Santa Anna, It was a few years ago, but I remember it being pretty cheap. BTW Praxair is a welding supply company for those who don’t know. It was a few gallons worth. If you have any extra of the liquid nitrogen you can mix it with milk and have fun with the whole family and some homemade ice cream Yaaaaah. No don’t do this…

I used liquid nitrogen, it literally jumped off the floor in 30 seconds per section Just be safe

The first ones are for my front, using an inner tie rod end for the rear pivot. The front rod end allows for bump steer tuning along with the custom tie rods

Taco gussets are pretty simple to make. Use some paper to make a template or unfold something in Solidworks. Band saw out the flat shape and mark you start and stop bend lines. Get a pc of round steel the inside diameter of the gusset and clamp it in a mill vise with the flat plate at your bend line. Use a dead blow hammer and roll it over. Once you have it past 90 degrees pinch both side around the round steel rod and again dead blow it to shape. A little fine trimming with a Dynafile and your set. Don’t forget the vent holes inside the gussets Click the picture to super size them

Just Kidding. I do have the pump like I said, its on a N/A L-24. Never a problem These pics are of my car from the MSA web site http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/PCLC06/16-7025 I always thought this was a nice set-up

I have had one on my 240 for a couple of years now. Daily driving in Southern California. I also have a MSA Aluminum radiator. My car never goes over the Thermostat temp.