MONZTER

Tim, I just saw this HAHAH That’s funny and doubtful. Funny that a still have not get my stuff finished, and doubtful to best you beautiful Z Anyway, Here is my current And My future (somday)

Just because you can, doesn't mean you should...

I remember seeing the Nismo 350z as well as the new 370 use a similar set-up called mass dampers. Here is what I saw Like the Nismo 350Z, the 2009 Nismo 370Z utilizes two mass dampers between the unibody's frame rails (one front, one rear) to reduce the body vibration produced when the stiffer suspension encounters certain road surfaces. We'd tell you what the car is like without them except that we have no idea. But we can say you probably wouldn't want this structure any more rigid. Compliant it isn't. BS - Hmm I dont know?

So then why did almost all old pre turbo ban F-1 cars as well as newer design cars use long tube equal length headers? High RPM, High Power, is it F-1 vs Road race? http://gurneyflap.com/engine.html http://gurneyflap.com/hondav6turbo.html http://gurneyflap.com/bmwturbof1engine.html

I think the shifting inserts wont hold it in gear if those are gone

I would do a search on Top End Performance before calling them. I was not happy with my dealings, nor were many others

Yep

Hi Tim, I doubt it but that is funny stuff. Thanks Jeff

Is Greg your brother? If he is then he knows I dont have any extra time to be making more plenums HAHA

I was planning on using a gasket

I am really glad this thread is still moving along, everybody is putting in some great comments. Like I said before, I am no pro engine builder, I just do this as a hobby, so I don’t know what is text book correct or not. I just try to use my common sense. I have always heard the head makes the power and the bottom end keeps it all together. You know I design bicycles for a living. Think about how many different ideas have been done before for a bike frame, So when I approach a new design it is never something obvious, and it is never anything that hasn’t been done before. what is always the difference is how the design and engineering aspects are put together. A little here and a little there all add up, and when I get it just right, wow it’s is just right. Remember it’s the sum of the parts that make up the whole project. So just an intake, or just a port job, or just fuel injection won’t do it alone. It is how all of these things act and work together, nothing too big nor too small. So I have been working on my turbo project for years now, trying to keep the same approach of everything working together. The right size turbo, the right size header, the intake, plumbing ect. Even down to the hardware that will hold it all together. I am hoping I have the same luck when it’s all finished someday. Hey since we’re talking about crazy welded heads, have you guys ever seen the pics of my welded CNC machined head? It was a P-90. The ports and chambers have all been designed in Pro Engineer and the CFD validation run in Starr CCM + The Plugs have been angled towards the exhaust valves and the intake ports raised as much as possible, even welded up the two center exhaust ports to make them the exact same size and shape as the others. I had to weld up and reshape the flange surface for the raised ports. The thermo housing outlet and fuel pump mount have also been welded up and shaved off, It will be running reverse coolant through a bolt on distribution manifold similar to the 432 motor. Just like you guys are saying “how is that little cam be making good power†I want to hear how is that little turbo making 500+ HP. We’ll see. Remember the devil is in the details:twisted: Jeff here is the intake I designed but have not built yet, You can see the cooland fitting integrated into the mounting flange

My Clutchmaster uses Kevlar disc and bolts right in with no special slave or parts @1500.00 They wont sell direct, but MSA can get them. They are custom order and take a few weeks to get.

I have a clutchmaster 7.5 inch dual disc clutch in mine. Complete clutch and flywheel is around 17lbs. what he means by streatable is not the effort. These types of clutches are not sprung, so they tend to chatter and jump when engaging. Also the throttle gets really touchy. Small smooth amounts of throttle is not an option. Its funny when someone tries to drive my car. First thing they do is stall it due to the low mass and the need to rev it and slip it abit. Next they rev it too much and end up spinning the tires at an intersection. Now I have gotton use to it and love it, but it is something you have to think about every time you start at a light. when a cop is next to you and your car is already way illegal. It kinda gets sketchy

looking good, I am sure it will work great

The taper on the bottom of the strut housing and the strut held everthing in place when tight, but when the nuts loosened up the strut would move up and and the gland nut rocked. Just a little and you coud hear it. I do have solid heim joints everywhers, so I feel everything. I ended up loctiting them and torquing the crud out of them as they kept coming loose.

I've had my gland nuts loosen up 1/4 of a turn and you could hear and feel them moving around...

Every once in a while even a blind squirrel finds an acorn HAHAAHAH

The clutch uses Kevlar disc so not as light switchy as the bronze. It is OK for the street, just takes a little getting use to it

oops