MONZTER

I dont remember exactly what it cost, but I have a crank,rods and pistons getting done now. I will find out. When its done he first matches the rods, big ends then small ends. Next pistons. The crank is then done and zeroed out. He then puts on the flywheel and checks it, then the pulley. I think its all pretty standard stuff. any good machine shop can do this.

That broken crank was exactly the same as mine that broke. same place, same look. This was a stock motor factory balanced. Like I said I could feel the buzz over 7000. My new balanced set-up no longer has the buzz, and has not yet broke

Attached is the print of the Pulley I worked with ATI to custom build. A very nice part, but like I said, not cheap. I guess it was cheaper than another broken crank. I have not used it yet so I cant give you guys a report of its benefits SK050M-Model per changes.pdf

On my engine, I am not sure what the numbers were as far as balance, but I know the machinist is very particular and gets it very close. I am running only a pulley because I just did not care. I cant say I would recommend it. In fact, for my turbo motor I had a custom ATI pulley/balancer made. It uses a serpentine belt and has the TEC pickup wheel built in. A very nice part. I actually think I have just been lucky so far and it is just a matter of time. On the stock bottom end, when I first put on the modified head and fuel injection, you could feel the vibrations starting at 7000. Guess what happened? at the auto cross the engine went boom. I brought it home and realized the flywheel should not turn independently of the front pulley. Yes, snapped the crank at the last rod. I think part of the broken crank is on the counter at Motorsport auto. So , the new bottom end all balanced out has a totally different feel and no vibration.

I have been running a pulley and no balancer for years now, and bring it up to 8000 on a regular basis. Never any problems. Now the internals are all balanced out very close, or maybe just luck, maybe just a matter of time..

I simply dont have time to make anything right now, Its been a busy 6 months. I would be happy to share any cad files or take more photos if anyone needs info to make their own. Jeff

I looked forever to find something close with no luck. I ended up modifying the stock mounts by cutting up the brackets and welding a tube to them the size to fit some urethane moustache bushings. I then made a simple u shaped bracket to accept it. Pics below. The trans mount was way more involved as I moved the motor back and inch as well as using a 240sx gear box. The bushings are urethane from a late model 240 crossmember. Just some ideas for you to think about

You can actually rent a Dewar from Praxair in Santa Anna, It was a few years ago, but I remember it being pretty cheap. BTW Praxair is a welding supply company for those who don’t know. It was a few gallons worth. If you have any extra of the liquid nitrogen you can mix it with milk and have fun with the whole family and some homemade ice cream Yaaaaah. No don’t do this…

I used liquid nitrogen, it literally jumped off the floor in 30 seconds per section Just be safe

The first ones are for my front, using an inner tie rod end for the rear pivot. The front rod end allows for bump steer tuning along with the custom tie rods

Taco gussets are pretty simple to make. Use some paper to make a template or unfold something in Solidworks. Band saw out the flat shape and mark you start and stop bend lines. Get a pc of round steel the inside diameter of the gusset and clamp it in a mill vise with the flat plate at your bend line. Use a dead blow hammer and roll it over. Once you have it past 90 degrees pinch both side around the round steel rod and again dead blow it to shape. A little fine trimming with a Dynafile and your set. Don’t forget the vent holes inside the gussets Click the picture to super size them

Just Kidding. I do have the pump like I said, its on a N/A L-24. Never a problem These pics are of my car from the MSA web site http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/PCLC06/16-7025 I always thought this was a nice set-up

I have had one on my 240 for a couple of years now. Daily driving in Southern California. I also have a MSA Aluminum radiator. My car never goes over the Thermostat temp.

The Si valves are great. Been using them for a while, best deal around

There are cheaters and there are losers...

Hey Porsche Guy, Ya, no problem, use the pictures, I have no problem with it. Distance is around 72mm Volume stayed the same per my original plan Good luck with your project Jeff

With that low compression I would stay 270/280 max or loose your bottom end

Sorry Tony and Alan, fixed it and thanks Jeff

Thanks for that Good Info

Hey Paul, What's your thoughts on this- I found out that Schneider cams make two different versions of the same cam http://schneidercams.com/l-series6cylinder.aspx 1.) For carb application it is 107 LCA 2.) For stock EFI application it is 112 LCA Same lift, same duration Make any sense?? Jeff

Yes you are correct, I am old....

Mountain or road bikes?? I'm in..