mobythevan

Everything is in place. I finished machining my SC pulley spacer today so the 36-1 trigger wheel fits on the crank. I'll get some pictures of it and some video of it running. Just a few small things to finish up and I will fire it again on the test stand. I test fired it back around Chirstmas with a carb and HEI dizzy. Since then I have been collecting the final parts, fuel injectors, rails, FPR, TPS, pigtails, etc to finish the throttle body injection and EDIS system. I have four 1600cc injectors on it, a 60gallon per hour pump(which is just barely going to make it), 950cfm throttle body. I also have water injection kit for it, but I will install that after the MS/EDIS is working.

There are some fuel maps listed in the map sharing sticky for different engine configurations.

I'll take a stab at answering some of those questions: pin 24 is that tach input signal to MS, it typically goes to the NEG coil terminal and the shield would go to ground. If pin 36 is labeled coil then it would be used to fire your coil. Then you would not need your ignition module on the side of the Dizzy anymore. A lot of times a non-heated O2 sensor will not work at idle/low rpm because it does not stay hot enough, that is the main reason to use a heated O2. The FIDLE logic will provide 12 volts while the engine is cold to enable a FIDLE valve. Once the engine warms up then it would go to ground. If you have the stock AAR valve on your engine then just connect that to ignition switched 12 volts, you don't need to connect it to the MS at all. Not sure what you are asking about the fan control wire.

same ex-girlfriend???

Nelson sent me another one:

Here was my old turbo 240z that Nelson bought. He sent me the photo today after I saw this thread and hit him up. It happened around Nov of last year. His email said something like this:

I was surprised it sat on craigslist and apparently no one went to look at it because the guy was easy to talk down. His add stated that it needed "significant engine work", but that shouldn't discourage any tuners. Maybe they thought it was modified and fried out by teenagers or something?? I am hoping to put it on the road in stock form as my new daily and then crank up the Talon to ~400hp with new cams, clutch and 25psi boost. But I am so busy for the next 3 months that I don't know which end is up.

Some of you guys might remember that I went to look at an alltrac last summer for really cheap, but it was sold already. This one came up on craigslist and no one bought it for over a week, so I picked it up. The engine is knocking, but runs. I drove it up on the trailer and the knock doesn't sound too bad yet, but will defenitely need to be fixed ASAP. It is 100% stock, 182K miles, but just had engine rebuilt (uh huh) and turbo rebuilt, new clutch. We'll see if that is true, the guy was middle aged and seemed really nice so maybe it is. For $800 I had to pick it up for another daily driver at the least.

If the MAP and RPM have crazy up and down spikes, but the car is running just fine with out misses or odd behaviour, then the interference would seem to be in the serial communication between MS and the laptop. Maybe that is what you determined already. I just wanted to know more when I read the crazy spikes on so many critical signals.

the rule of thumb is that the human eye can see 30hz and slower oscillations. If it can be set as slow as 5-6hz like you say I would start there, that is only 5-6 cycles per second, very easy to see when the modulation occurs.

I haven't seen a wastegate that opens and shuts faster than my eye can see when I am making a full throttle run through 3rd and 4th gear?? Full boost is on for quite some time, seconds. Wouldn't the LED work in this case. Even if the wastegate opens and shuts during full boost portin, it will not cycle that fast.

470 or 330 ohm woud be good

Did you get a chance to try using an LED to indicate when the FET switches on/off? I would do that and not even hook up the solenoid/valve. Put the LED in place of the solenoid with a resistor to limit current. So X12 to resistor, otherside resistor to band on LED, other side LED to 12 volts.

I noticed in a couple recent threads that people are looking for input on the reliability of the v2.2 board. I just wanted talk about my experience so far since all I have used is the 2.2 board in all the installs I have completed or helped with. My current daily driver has logged 15K miles with v2. board and no problems (not a single reset or loss of program, no weird behaviour). That car is daily driven for over a year now, and also driven to the drag strip and thrashed. I run 18psi boost on that setup so it is pretty mild. The only problem with that setup in 15K miles has been the IAT sensor failing around 8K miles. I had another thread about that. Now, on the flip side I have personally seen one problematic install. Resets all the time, just a mess. Just so happens that this board was not soldered by me, instead the guy that owns the car wanted to solder it himself to learn how, he had never soldered before . The last update was that after reflowing and touching up his solder job there have been no more resets. I have not seen any reliabilty issues with v2.2 except the soldering, and the list of cars I have worked on to come to that conclusion: My 240z that I sold to Nelson L28et (Nelson drove it 1500 miles back to LA, I think I forgot to tell him I did all the work ) Eagle Talon (daily driver) 37 chevy 350sbc TPI Prox's z car (daily driver??) 77 chevy 1/2 ton with 350sbc TPI (Daily driver) 34 Pontiac 454 with EDIS (only running on test stand right now) Installs in Progress: 67 Mustang 302 (first v3 board install) I know people have problems, so this was just my experience FWIW

No problem, I can pick you up there or at meadow lake airport. Just let me know sometime if you want to dop by and see whats up.

driver side and passenger side headers pretty much complete.

Guy I work with has a CBX here in Colorado. He never rides it, I think it has probably set for the last 10 years.

usually easier said than done, but I am really gad to hear that you might have found the problem. awesome, I hope that was it and your good to go now.