mobythevan

It also serves another purpose besides heating the TB and AAR. IIRC, it also allows a small amount of coolant flow around the head which can help with steam bubbles in the coolant. You can talk to Tony D. about it, but he has witnessed problems with engines that eliminate this path altogether. Perhaps drilling the small hole in the thermostat would acomplish the same thing. Something to watch out for.

Aluminum is fine for grounding. I am not just saying that in theory, I grounded all of my electronics to the aluminum intake manifold. My engine block was then grounded to the car frame. No problems.

I got set back about a week because I bought the wrong flexplate for the engine. I will hopefully have the correct flexplate by this weekend and get the engine installed, then I can start wiring up MS. I don't have an IAC on my LS1 engine, it was missing when I got the engine. As usual I am going to do something a little strange and use the purge solenoid as my FIDLE valve. Since it is just a solenoid that allows air into the intake, the only thing is to see how much it raises rpms. It looks big enough to work as a FIDLE valve. I will not have it connected to the gas tank purge setup like factory car, so I'll just put a little filter on it.

Unfortunately I will be using the old MS1 extra code and on top of that I will be using the old v2.2 board. That is what I have in hand.

Once I get it running here I will do some type of writeup, at least the basics for wiring. I was hoping dieselgeek would do a writeup first so I could plug'nplay. He did most of the work for the 4G63 so it made my install a breeze. If my flexplate makes it in this week I will be installing the engine this weekend and then wiring up the MS box. Maybe start testing next week. The worst part is cutting the factory PCM connectors off my perfectly good LS1 harness. Just seems like a waste, but better than building a new wiring harness I guess.

The only other basic thing is making sure your serial cable is the correct type (straight through or crossover??) Oh, and make sure stuff like hotsync isn't running and tieing up the serial port on the laptop. I always have to shut it down or the connection won't work to megatune.

Awesome, sounds like a great setup. Glad to hear you figured the problems out.

UPDATED (3_4_16) V3 pcb cam input JS2 label wrong, changed to JS8, thank you jartech007 UPDATED (12_7_11) May be a problem with trigger return cranking and blowing coil/FP fuse, added some info about setting hold ignition to 2 to help prevent this. UPDATED (3_24_10) Added 24 vs 58 tooth crank sensor info (58 tooth will not work) UPDATED (9_18_09) Added better description for v2.2 crank sensor mods UPDATED (3_16_09) (fixed spark/coil wiring to be intuitive, fixed trigger return cranking for quicker starts) MSQ files are attached at the bottom of this post for HiRes10e. That is what I run on all my cars right now. One msq is for gas, the other for e85. My car has 150lb injectors so you will need to change virtually all of the settings to make this files work. Warmups, accell, ASE, cranking PW, required fuel, etc. But at least it will give people a starting point. I also never got to tune this setup so the AFR tables are all 11.0. The harness color codes in this document reflect my 99 LS1 harness, I have noticed the colors vary on some other harnesses. running MS1 on V2.2 or v3 board using MSnS_extra029y4 or HiRes10e code (I have run with both versions and both v2.2 and v3 boards with no problems) Section One, TRIGGER inputs to MS 1. The crank sensor input goes to the TACH input pin, pin 24 on the DB37. The megasquirt must trigger off the falling edge of the crank sensors signal because it is evenly spaced 24 tooth signal with no missing teeth. The rising edge of the signal is not evenly spaced. NOTE: These instructions are designed for LS1/LS6 type engines with a 24-tooth wheel, which can be identified by its black harness connector. This will not work with the LS2/LS7 and its 58-tooth wheel, which can be easily recognized by its gray harness connector (the crank sensor itself is gray on 58 tooth engines, thanks for the information "jartech007"). Crank Sensor Wires: Signal - blue/wht Power - green Ground - black or yellow black in some harnesses v2.2: Remove the opto isolator from the board. Remove R11, D5, D8, and R10. Leave C11 installed for noise filtering. Bring the crank sensor input directly to the processor pin with a 1k series resistor just like the cam signal. This is pin 14 on the ECU (IRQ1). Since pin 14 is active low it automatically uses the correct falling edge of the crank sensor input. A convenient way to bring the crank sensor input(tach pin 24) directly to processor pin 14 is to install the 1k resistor from the non-banded side of D5 to proc pin 14. You may need some wire to reach. v3: Remove all jumpers that go from tachselect or tsel to vr or opto, depending on how your board was built it may or may not have jumpers installed. Run a wire and series 1k resistor between tachselect and tsel. Add the .01uf capacitor between tsel and XG2(gnd). 2. The cam sensor goes to second trigger input which requires a 1K resistor to pin 11 of the processor. It also requires a .01uf cap for noise filtering. On both of my setups I used the ignition pin 36 on the DB37 for the second trigger cam input. This is S5 on the terminal block of the relay board if you are using it. Cam Sensor Wires: Signal - brown/wht Power - red Ground - pink/black v2.2: Add wire with 1k series resistor from pin 36 of DB37 to pin 11 of the processor. Add .01uf capacitor from pin 11 to gnd. v3: Remove any jumpers that may be installed on your board to IGN. Run a wire from IGN to JS2 (pin 11). Run a wire from IGN to JS8 (pin 11) with a series 1k resistor in between. Add a .01uf capacitor from pin 11 of the processor to pin 4 of U7 (gnd). jartech007 pointed out an error here in labeling pin 11. The schematic for v3 pcb shows pin 11 is JS8. Both crank and cam sensors are powered with 5 volts. It has already been confirmed by other people that both sensors return a 5 volt square wave logic signal. I did find new info that in the factory setup both sensors are powered by 12 volts, but 5 volts works without the need for other circuitry to interface with the processor. 3. Megatune settings. Under "wheel decoder settings" , set "wheel decoder base teeth" to 24. Turn on 2nd trigger. Set 2nd trigger edge to "rising and falling". Set to "no missing" teeth. I also have added a timing mark and indicator tab on the LS1 engine block and harmonic damper so that I can determine the relationship between megasquirt and the crankshaft. There should be no need to do this on installs, I just did it on the first one to make sure everything worked correctly. The LS1 damper is not keyed so if you pull and re-install it your timing mark will move anyway. Trigger Position settings(updated 3_16_09): Trig Pos A 21, Return A 24 Trig Pos B 3, Return B 6 Trig Pos C 9, Return C 12 Trig Pos D 15, Return D 18 This yields a trigger at 60 BTDC and a return trigger at 15 BTDC. Under Spark settings the trigger angle is set to 60. Use trigger return mode with hold =0* and cranking advance angle = 15. *NOTE(12_7_11): I have read about problems with trigger return cranking and hold set to zero. I believe hold should be set to 2 to prevent problems at slow cranking or beginning of cranking with blown coil fuses and backfires. If you still have problems use time based cranking to avoid these issues. Section Two, SPARK 1. Under "basic settings" then under "codebase outputs and functions" , run wheel decoder code type by selecting generic wheel. Set LED17 to Spark A, LED18 to Spark C, LED19 to Spark B and output3 to Spark D. Spark E must be set to shiftlight, Spark F must be set to knock input. I have X2 set to fan control and X4 set to boost control. FIDLE is set to idle control. To setup output3 for spark D control, build another 2222 transistor circuit like the LED circuits in the proto area on v3 board or add a proto circuit to the v2.2 board. Spark D is output 3 (pin 15 on processor) which has a resistor in circuit already that needs to be removed, remove R14 for v2.2, remove R1 for v3. You can omit the LED and 330ohm resistor from the spark D circuit. Put a 1K resistor from pin 15 of the processor to pin 2 of transistor, another 1k resistor from VCC to pin 3 of the transistor and tie pin 1 of the transistor to GND. Take your wire for spark control from pin 3 of the transistor just like the spark A,B,C LED mods. Picture for LED spark mods, do this mod to all three LED circuits for spark A,B,C. The LEDs on v2.2 are D17,D18,D19. The LEDs on v3 are D14,D15,D16. On my v2.2 and v3 setups I ran the four spark connections to the DB37 on pins 25, 27, 29, 31. On v2.2 these are X11,X12,X13,X14. On v3 these are IAC1A, IAC1B, IAC2A, IAC2B. On the relay board if you use one, these connection become S1, S2, S3, S4 on the terminal block. 2. The LS1 firing order is 1-8-7-2-6-5-4-3, so I set the spark outputs as follows for wasted spark: (Updated 3_16_09 for intuitive spark and coil wiring) Spark A(S1/DB37 pin 25) connects to coils 1 and 6, blue/wht and purple Spark B(S2/DB37 pin 27) connects to coils 8 and 5, green and purple/wht Spark C(S3/DB37 pin 29) connects to coils 7 and 4, green/wht and red Spark D(S4/DB37 pin 31) connects to coils 2 and 3, light blue and red/wht The coil ground wires black and black/wht are grounded to the chassis with a lug. The coil reference low wires brown and brown/wht are grounded at the DB37 on any available ground pin. Coil power is pink and should be powered from the fuel pump relay. 3. Megatune settings. This setup has the processor firing the transistor, then the transistor fires the LS1 coil ignitor. With this setup I believe the "spark output inverted" box should be set to NO in megatune. I used the dwell settings from Z-ya--> Cranking 5ms, Running 4ms, Minimum 1ms. NOTE on coil power wiring: my LS1 harness has the injector and coil power tied together in the harness. If you connect these wires to the inj power terminal you will get backfires when you turn the key on because the coils power up before the processor is booted. I separated the coil power wires at the big connector on the coil bracket and then powered the coils from the fuel pump relay power as recommended in MSnS_Extra manual. Section Three, Wiring INJECTORS, TPS, CLT, IAT, etc 1. Connect the injectors so that 2 on each fuel rail fire together for the least amount of pressure drop in one rail. Run alternating injection so you don't hit the rail all at once. INJ1 = 1,5,4,8 - blk/wht, black, blue/white, blue/blk INJ2 = 3,7,2,6 - pink/blk, red/blk, yellow/blk, green/blk The injector power wires are pink. TPS Wires: Signal - blue Vref - grey Ground - black Coolant Wires: Signal - yellow Ground - black Intake Air Temp Wires: Signal - purple or orange on some harnesses Ground - tan MS ECU grounds: Bring at least a couple ground wires from the DB37 back up the harness to some chassis lugs(I brought six ground wires up and tied to larger gauge wire then eventually two lugs). Grounding between the battery, engine block, and chassis should always be a top priority for EFI installs. With proper grounding it is no longer an issue where to ground the ECU, sensors, etc. Section Four, General NOTES 1. Don't remove the LS1 IAC and use a block off plate. I tried that before thinking it through and it left the entire hole open so idle was too high. Also it makes a deafening whistle as air goes through the weird shaped passage. I just left the IAC installed but not connected to anything. 2. Watch settings under "more settings" then under "shift light/fan/outputs 3+4" , the output 4(LED 18) settings are confusing, this could cause a conflict between spark C and fan settings. Section 5, MISC circuits 1. A circuit for controlling a relay for your cooling fan. Picture for Taurus Fan control using X2 output 2. A circuit to control a stock tachometer. A 1K resistor seems to work fine for my rx7. The 029y4 code provides a tach output signal that can be set to 4 cylinder mode, like the LS1 PCM does. My dash tach reads about 300 rpm high at any spot using this circuit. I will determine the correct resistor to calibrate this shortly. Picture for the circuit to drive the a Tach MSQ FILES HERE, (Updated 3_16_09) updated_msq.zip

Just wanted to link the two threads from msefi All the work was already done, now its just up to us to verify there are no bugs. http://www.msextra.com/viewtopic.php?t=23881 http://www.msextra.com/viewtopic.php?p=161308 This was a partial quote from DaveW in reference to the LS1: "engine that could have been designed with MS in mind (logic level cam/crank, logic level CoP units, GM air and coolant sensors)"

tired of the L6 huh, LS1 is going in??

Wow, perfect timing to put megasquirt on the LS1. 029y3 code was released beta yesterday and it supports the rising and falling edges for the cam input. Here are the fruits of my research: MS1 and MS2 will run the LS1 in wasted spark mode. Use 2 tach inputs just like I do with my 4G63 in the talon(except set second trigger to rising and falling edge). Instructions are at DIY for the talon tach input mods. Proven to work great on my talon. Use 4 spark outputs (LED circuits for 3) and output3 for the last one. These DO NOT need to be VB921's because the LS1 coil packs have an ingnition amp built into each one. So normal LED transistor circuit should work fine (we'll see). Seems straight forward, so I think I am locked in to go that route, see below for my reasoning. If no one has any gotchas by tomorrow I'll get a kit on order from Matt and get cracking. NOTE: I am not using megasquirt because I don't want to use the stock PCM, it is because hptuners is $500, I am missing MAP, MAF and IAC which would be another $150-$180. And then I have to muck with all the weird features like VATS, dual O2 sensors, EVAP, etc. Just buy an old v2.2 MS1 for $140 and be on my way. It what I am comfortable with and know inside and out.

I also found this on ls1tech: http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=670015&highlight=megasquirt it appears he is running fuel only and modified the code to use the falling edge trigger. There is really no description in the thread about MS setup, but by running fuel only he gets away without needing the second cam input and 4 coil drivers.

She has helped with some pretty crazy stuff over the years, its been fun. She helped me tune the talon at 18psi boost. She drove and I tuned from the passenger seat, full boost in every gear. Every once in a while she'll say "ooooh, I don't like this", but she keeps on helping.

I searched over on the MS forum and it looks like its possible but not confirmed yet.

If I used megasquirt I think it would be a bit of unknown territory again, I am tired of experimented with that stuff at the moment so I will just use the factory computer for now. Unless I can easily mount a 36-1 trigger wheel on the LS1 and run wasted spark.

Well and that sentence decided this summers main project. Many thanks to Silicone boy, I now have the LS1 in hand and the RX7 is the main focus for this summer. BTW, probably the funniest quote ever came from my wife yesterday as I just finished pulling the rotary engine. I ask her: "So what do you think about all of this? (implying the engine swapping/working on cars in general)." She says: "Its pretty neat to replace such a little thing with such a big thing." I think she was talking about the rotary engine compared to the LS1 engine. And lastly, I don't want to spill the beans on anything that Silicone boy is working on, but I got to ride in and briefly drive his RX7 project. WOW is all I can say, you will have to prod him for the details though. EDIT: and don't worry, I plan to power wash the engine bay and do things up a little nicer on this project.

Before you spend very much time on it check the compression. check http://www.rotaryresurrection.com for instructions on how to use a piston compression gauge. EDIT: oops two r's one s My engine has good compressoin on the front rotor and bad on the back, it won't start on its own unless you put oil in the rear housing to raise the compression.

Won't it take just as much time and money to get a rotary rebuilt and running correctly as a V8 swap? I have been working on my 86 rx7 the last couple weeks and I'm tossing the brand new rebuilt 13b in the scrap pile. BTW, the previous owner purchased the rebuilt 13b, not me. Don't rotaries average like 250 miles between rebuilds? Yeah, 250, no k in there. ha ha, just poking fun.

I once replaced an egnine in a laser because it was knocking only to find out that the new engine had the same knock because it was a torque converter bolt hitting on the bent dust cover. I put a rag in the air pipe to prevent dust and particles from getting in while in storage, then went ahead and started up the engine, the rag got hung up lucklily and didn't make it all the way tothe turbo. I still think the funniest is when I took the spare tire out of my trunk on 66 impala SS, just so I could get some other stuff out of the trunk. I conveniently stood it up against the back bumper. Then for whatever reason hopped in to move the car, started backing up in the usual fast manner, and said WTF was that. Got out to inpsect and guess what, back the diff pumpkin right into the center of the rim. High centered the car perfectly. Then if that wasn't bad enough I put it in gear and sarted shoving boards under the tires, that was a long time ago....

If anyone wants to donate a rolling chassis I'm game

I am thinking no, but I'll have to see if there are hiccups in the accell enrichment.

Installation, tuning and EDIS8 to follow Looks better if it is sized smaller, but that is what youtube set it at, so... I'll get another video when it is installed in the car.