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Everything posted by mobythevan
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wow, uranus is much bigger than the earth I know, that was bad, its one of those days
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Is Ego switch point mute with aft table enabled?
mobythevan replied to Thumper's topic in MegaSquirt
I wondered the same question when I tried to use AFR tables, it seems that would be the case. -
The consensus right now is that MSI with MSnS_Extra code is better if your are doing stuff like turbo with nitrous/water injection/boost control/traction control/knock sense, etc For normal engine or normal turbo setup MSII should be fine and one of these days the MSnS_Extra code will be supported on MSII and then it won't matter.
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Under general tab, lambda AFR settings, then it has a box for VE table1 and VE table3, turn both off. I see that you do not have overboost protection set up under the general tab, also rev limiter values are not set, and you have it set to use MAPdot acceleration enrichment instead of TPSdot (that is OK if that is what you want, but at this point I don't think you understand what the settings do so research and make sure you want MAPdot enrichment) I notice that you also have a fixed angle of 5 degrees entered, so with this code you will always have 5 degrees timing and not even run from the spark table, is that what you intended? The rest of the settings look OK
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I tried that on my engine and it ran horribly, it would only run smooth with alternating and 2 injections, since he fried an injector diver it sounds like he is stuck with these settings, if it was me I would replace the driver.
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OK, then 8.4 required fuel is correct for that, but you still need to change to alternating and 2 injection so the required fuel in the gray box is also 8.4 Also work through all of the other changes mentioned and then send me a new file if you are still stuck.
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That is why the basics are listed in the sticky in jpeg format for constants, ve, enrichments and spark timing. Here is what I would like to see from someone out there that runs MSnS_Extra024s13 code (which was the last stable release before 029 code): Could someone please capture their settings in jpeg format and post them up here and I will make the thread a sticky, again this is for 024s13 code and I would like to see constants, ve, ego, ASE, warmup, spark settings, spark table at least. I had these settings, but sold my car before I copied the files over so someone else has to step up and help out now. I can do this for 021u code, but many things changed going up to 024s13(or 024s9, or 024s11, any of those vintage).
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I got the msq file you mailed me and I see problems from the start... You have a theoretical required fuel of 8.4(white box), which may be OK, but tell me what size injectors you are using so I can verify that. You have simultaneous injection and 3 injections per cycle which causes you to have a real required fuel(gray box) of 2.8 (NOT good). Go to alternating injection and 2 injection per cycle, this brings up real required fuel to 8.4 in this case. That is much better, now you are not having the impact of injector on/off time enter in to tuning as much as you were with 2.8 required fuel. Here is the section from the tuning manual: let me know what size injectors you are running here is something else you have wrong(from manual): you have PWM time threshold set to .1 msec instead of 1.0 msec I would also change EGO control to only be active above 1200rpm instead of 600rpm like you have, that way your NB sensor is heated up better. Also turn of AFR target tables until you get the engine to idle and run Here is the HUGE one I see: You have no ASE (after start enrichment), that is why it starts then dies. You only have it set to 50 cycles and barely have any percentage. Change to seconds instead of cycles and start with 15 seconds and up the percentages to like 15% at 40 degrees and slowly work that percentage down. YOUR TIMING TABLE IS SCREWED:shock: your going to blow up(at least blow a head gasket) if you run it that way, totally backwards, you have timing at like 17 degrees under no boost and then it increases to 31 degrees under high boost, you want the exact opposite TWO important things: read the tuning section of the manual again for setting the constants up correctly and look into the sticky at my starting timing table and compare it to yours. Notice how it is completely backwards, KABOOM, heh heh:lmao:. Pay particular attention to the MAP values, it doesn't matter which direction they are put in to the table, but it certainly matters that you have less timing at 170kpa than 100kpa for instance. The last question for you: Why on earth are you hacking up an msq like this instead of downloading the one I put in the map sharing sticky for MSnS_Extra021u code and using it to start with??????? That one at least has ballpark settings for ASE, Warmup, spark, fuel, etc etc. If my tone in this emails sounds mad you are taking it wrong, I got a good laugh looking through that file, and I'm just confused why you didn't start with known settings.
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They are T'd into the wires, NOT inline
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Are you using high impedance or low impedance injectors? If you are using low impedance are you using dropping resistors to limit current or the pulse width modulation? That may have nothing to do with it, but atleast make sure that is set up correctly. Wiring the injectors can be a little tricky with the splicing. I had copied the ASCI test diagram into the sticky guide which helps a little.
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The HEI does require the bolts thru the module to be grounded or it won't work.
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Welcome to hybridz. It looks like you already started finding some of the info you need by looking around. Let us know if you have any more questions.
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Yes, that is correct
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You need the two resistors installed like the sticky diagram shows if you don't already have that.
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I thought you just set it back to narrowband and enter an EGO switchpoint of .5 volts
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He just has so much money and time that he swaps back and forth between the two.
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Sounds good, thanks for the update and let us know if the replacement works OK.
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I think it is mainly because the install guide is ancient and it was written for the 2.2 pcb. MSnS_Extra is NOT available for MSII yet, so that is another reason most people will stick with MSI on either 2.2 or 3.0 pcb. But it will be available at some point. Just research and see if you really need any of the extra functions available and maybe MSII would work for you.
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If you post a pic, do you black out you tag?
mobythevan replied to big-phil's topic in Non Tech Board
That's right, you are only allowed 7 letters so they couldn't fit the 1 in front -
If you post a pic, do you black out you tag?
mobythevan replied to big-phil's topic in Non Tech Board
here is mine without the blackout, heh heh -
great link, and it address the hysteresis issue:
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That may not work very good because you want hysteresis built into electric fan control(off to on and on to off temps to vary by a few degrees or more). The fan code for MSnS_Extra provides that hysteresis, otherwise you may have the issue of the relay kicking on/off spuratically when you cross the temp threshold and that will likely burn up your electric fan motor. I am only speaking from theory so you are welcome to try it and it might work. The FIDLE software didn't intend to pass the threshold more than once each time the engine was started and not in the reverse direction where the engine cooled down enough while running to require FIDLE to turn on again.
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The FIDLE output was intended to run a relay on the MS relay board, so why not use it for fan control, as long as MSnS_Extra allows you to select FIDLE output for fan control. What generally happens is that most people use the FIDLE pin for spark control, but otherwise that should work fine.
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You can check the volts on either of the LC-1 outputs with a multi-meter and they should read according to your AFR. I did this for a while before I got a gauge: Programmed LC-1 output to be 1volt = 10AFR and 2volt = 20AFR, then connect the multi meter and start the car, if multi meter reads 1.5 volts for example, then AFR is 15, if it reads 1.2volts the AFR is 12 and so on. That works well. I would suggest you hook up a meter like that and also hook up the LC-1 to logworks and make sure the logworks readout matches the multi meter readout. Then you know you are good. reading 28mv all the time does not sound right. BTW, do all of this without the LC-1 connected to megasquirt. Then if you connect it to megasquirt and it measures 28mv again you know the problem is in megasquirt