mobythevan

That is a very nice looking job that you linked. The set back in the drivers seat area is very important.

FWIW, that is how I piped my IC. 2" from the turbo compressor across the engine bay between the engine and radiator, then went to 2.5" to match the intercooler couplers and throttle body size. On my new setup with the talon I am doing 2" the entire way to the throttle body, but it is much tighter to route IC pipes.

Just as an update to this thread, I bought and installed the S&W racecars cage/roll bar system, 8 point. It was something like $180 with shipping. I had my brother weld it in since he is certified. I looked into pipe benders for my 34 pontiac project and they are indeed $1400 with a few dies for one that can do a cage type job. I was very happy with the S&W setup, but I am easy to please. At the time I made this thread I was very naive on a lot of points, and I am still am on a lot of points . I'll give you the Katman response to save him the time, if you want a roll cage in your car to make it look cool buy the S&W or JEGS, otherwise if you want one for racing or to really save your life have a shop install a certified cage.

I just installed 850cc injectors on my Talon 4G63 engine. I believe MSnS also supports dual staged injectors. I am not going that route because I talked to someone tuning 2 liter four cylinder engines with 800-900cc injectors and got some tips on smooting the VE table at idle and lowering fuel pressure a pound or two for fine tuning idle. So I am going to try that and see how it does.

I checked on them but a nice one runs around $200 and you know me, cheap b@stard. Its more of an exercise to play around with. And the digital voltmeter will have the decimal in the wrong place, picky picky, I know. Now I just need to find a nice looking cheap enclosure for the big seven segment display.

I haven't forgot about this. I got the LC-1 wideband installed and working with MSnS. Today I ordered the rest of the capacitors and resistors from Jameco to finish building the display.

Look for a cheaper laptop, seriously. You only need a pentium 90 processor or even a 486 laptop to program megasquirt. I would budget $50 for an antique laptop and $200 for an LC-1 wideband.

That is what it looks like, instead of connecting a wire from the ignition switched 12 volts to coil positive you would instead connect a wire from the fuel pump connection on the relay board, that way the coil is only powered when the fuel pump is powered, so two wires.

So that is how you got the measurements for your sig? Ha Ha, I owed you one Have you used a dynapack dyno before? Just curious how they compare.

check out this thread http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=107106 and this schematic for wiring your coil on the v3 board http://megasquirt.sourceforge.net/extra/pix/vb921-driver-single.gif Notice that 12volts to the coil positive post comes from the fuel pump relay wire so that the coil is only power when the engine is spinning (as detected by the tach input from the CAS).

I think you are right on all the points, even the article pointed out that all of the ecotec aftermarket parts available right now will not work with this new engine since the head and pistons are special to support the direct injection and virtually everything else was changed. The torque curve does look like fun though. I didn't notice the 5300rpm redline in the article.

I had to wait until I got home to remember which magazine it was, popular hot rodding.

Got megasquirt and wideband put on my new car, 90 talon. Went in last night to clean up a few things to start tuning and when I removed the intake pipe from the turbo I heard the unmistakable sound of something hitting the floor. WTF?, I couldn't have dropped anything, so I continue to remove the guts of the MAF and realize that 1 of the four tabs that use to hold the "silencer" is not there. I fearfully look into the front of the turbo chipped and bent compressor wheel. Look back on the floor and there is the fourth tab, been rattling around at the turbo intake for 2 weeks .Brand new EVO3 16g turbo with 3k miles on it. This came about because I had to cut the silencer out two weeks ago to fit the new intake pipe and didn't realize that action left 4 tabs, the size of a dime each, with nothing but crazy luck holding them in place. Lesson learned, when modding the intake double check and disassemble everything to make sure no piece can come loose. Looks like a local shop can send it out and have the compressor wheel cleaned up and re-balanced. Thank goodness I noticed it now and didn't drive it until the compressor ground out and ruined the turbo completely.

My newest magazine has an article about this, pretty cool to see the direct fuel injection in a gas engine. 260hp/260tq, I didn't read it all so I am not sure what the boost was. There graph showed a flat torque curve of 260lbs from 2K to 6K. That sounds fun. Full boost at 2k and still have top end.

A consistent setup makes tuning easier. So I don't believe it matters if the FPR is static or raises pressure as long as it does its function the same way every time, then it will be easy to tune and AFRs will stay the same, disregarding every other variable in an engine.

my copied post from msefi.com: Went ahead and installed MSnS and LC-1 wideband a day early. After the usual confusion and mess ups it fired up. Had the wrong required fuel becasue I started with andrew's msq from dieselgeek. Got that squared away and set timing, its running good. Got to set idle now, verify the stepper IAC is shut, fix the AFR gauge in megatune(think I ended up with the wrong megatune for 024s13c) and then tune it a bit. Should be driving it to work on Friday (60 mile trip). Thanks to dieselgeek and jerry at DIYautotune. Now the real fun begins.

The manual way would be to log the percent correction on a drive then analyze the file at home and re-adjust accordingly the target values that required a large percent correction during the drive. There should be software to automatically update like mentioned, but I haven't chekced into it yet.

I tried to use mstweak a couple times with no success. I am curious to see if anyone is using it and how well it works. I just tune manually right now and run target AFR tables with wideband.

Went to a hot rodders garage today that builds rods and does machining and welding. After looking at several cool rods we go in the room where he is building one and on the bench sets a complete 1100hp twin turbo V6. He bought it from the car museum here in Colorado Springs when they shut down. It is in immaculate condition. He said it was only dyno'd then never used in the race, was just a back up engine. He had lots of other cool stuff there. He owns a GN that he drives around when he is not out in one of the rods. I wondered why he had the huge poster on the wall showing the Indy GN V6.....

Every since I wrote that sticky I have never heard back from anyone that used that VR trigger circuit? So if you use it and it works let me know so I can say it is really verified.

I know this doesn't apply to the L28 engines, but for the chevy guys, you can by the EDIS 36-1 wheel with 2" center hole and then buy a supercharger 2 groove pulley with 2" center. Makes a nice bolt on setup for the EDIS on V8's.

OK, thanks for the info. I'll just check into the shur-flo pumps.

Found this neat link with quite a bit of info and calculators for water injection, it might have been listed already. http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/waterinjection.html I was interested in #21 on the list about using fuel injection pump for water injection. He says it will corrode shut quicky. Has anyone here been running a 50/50 water ethanol mixture using a fuel pump?

I would have thought you would say the same thing as the awd neon, v12 in a z good, v12 in a corvair, who wants a corvair, ugly ha ha ha

It will be interesting to see how my 4g63 idles with 850cc injectors and megasquirt. I hear MSII allows a finer scale batch control which helps with bigger injectors, but I haven't looked into it since I won't be running an MSII unit.