mobythevan

Is that true? I am not sure what state FIDLE line should set in when the engine is not running. Some of the Extra codes changed the behavior of the FIDLE line during idle time (so modules wouldn't get hot and burn up). Not sure which code changed it and not sure what the correct behavior should be in either case. The most important thing is that it pulses during cranking. James (developer of Extra code) would tell us how that is suppose to work and what code version it changed in. Maybe ask him over on the MSnS_Extra forum.

Could you give some more details on what is wrong with using that module? thanks

I have found that you have to exit megatune and re-enter it after calibrating the TPS, then the new settings take affect and it should work correctly. It never works correctly for me after calibration until I exit and re-start megatune. let us know if that works

I play original UT (from 99 I guess), not 2k3 or 2k4 MS should work well on SR20DET. Depending on what type of ignition system you want it to run. Wasted spark works well.

I believe with the jumper isntalled wrong and 10volts on FIDLE line the transistor Q5 is likely burned up. Waiting to here confrimation on this.

I did not know the relays are soldered on pre-built assemblies. I will add a bit in the MODS to hardware area that talks about this. You can send me the pics and I'll come up with something to add. Thanks

I forget I even had this, but I fired it back up. If anybody needs some quick help or answers. I'll have it on while I am at work, usually from about 8 to 5 MST. It will be off from 11:30 to 1 for unreal tournament gaming everyday I'm usually at my desk and don't mind helping people out.

If you are using an 82 or 83 optical distributor with a pullup on the tach line like the schematic shows, then your setup will work correctly or..... You have one of two issues: 1. Not the correct pinout for the 4 pin HEI module 2. Your ECU isn't fully functional (parts installed wrong, bad parts, etc) The fact that C15 went bang (if it really did make a popping noise) then it was installed backwards(it is a polarized cap). I would re-check all polarized parts on the board, if one got installed backwards and the board does not work correctly on the stimulator.

The 12 volts that goes to the coil, ECU and HEI module has to be connected to a source that is on during cranking and running. You guys already know this but just wanted to re-iterate. Also good to test the ECU on the stimulator to make sure it is working correctly before the install.

If you are using a 4 pin HEi module you should not be doing any mods to the hardware to run MSnS_Extra, it will run the same as MSnS hardware-wise. You should not be running in 7 pin HEI mode in the software, that changes MSnS from this cylinder mode to next cylinder mode. You want to be in this cylinder mode for 4 pin HEI, so keep the code set to standard MSnS mode. Do you have diode D9 installed backwards, that would cause this 10v to happen?

From what I have bought, I found http://www.atpturbo.com to be the best price for the quality. They have the fabric layers in the transitions. They are at 17.50 for a transistion last time I bought them. Maybe that is not good enough quality.

no problem, just remember if you use Extra type code that it has a lot of extra settings and configurations that are not covered in the install guide. I am using it so I can help when you get that far.

You buy a megasquirt ECU (probably still version 2.2 hardware). Then when you receive it and assemble it you decide what code to run. Code options are regular MS, MSnS, or MSnS_extra. Only one megasquirt box is available, you have several options of code to run on it.

I also picked them up at radio shack. I got the type that come in the chrome casing and bolt to the housing, but I left the nut off the back side to fit them all in and then hot glued it. I am looking forward to getting it installed this weekend so I don't have to look down at the tach.

Got bored today so I built a shift light since the MSnS_extra code already has the capabilty to control it. Try this link to watch how it functions, right click and save(this was from the MS site, not my box). http://www.bcrx7.com/movies/shiftlight.avi I used a battery enclosure from radio shack that is made for 4 AAA batteries. Removed the extra plastic inside. Used 4 green subminature LED assmeblies and 2 red high power LED assemblies.

that answers my questions, thanks

I am going to get a side question in on this one, I am still learning too. Can we generalize and say that the two biggest losses on any turbo or super are parisitic and adiabatic? Parasitic being the power lost to drive the compressor(by belt or exhaust) and adiabatic being the power lost because the air is heated when it is compressed so less air makes it in the combustion chamber than the theoretical PSI number leads you to believe. The efficiency number given to my B&M 250 supercharge is 55% IIRC, and the turbo on my 240z runs around 70% in the compressor map. Just to throw out number to compare.

True, if you are under boost for a long enough time, or you drive an n/a car full throttle long enough you will loose vacuum that is stored(assuming you use the device with stored vacuum, like a cruise control pod). But as soon as you lift your foot vacuum is quickly restored to all devices. So under "normal" driving you will always have vacuum. My Ford dually truck will use up all of its vacuum for cruise control climbing long gradual grades because the throttle is applied constantly. The only answer to fix that type of problem is a larger vacuum storage canister or a vacuum pump. Your thinking is correct, it is just a matter of how long does the vacuum last and how long can you keep you foot in it and need vacuum accesories to work. The standard answer is you won't be flooring it and hitting the brakes at the same time(only answering the brake question).

Good deduction. That is why vacuum operated accesories should have check valves to prevent the pressure from going up the line to the device. When vacuum is present in the manifold, air is evacuated from all vacuum pods/actuators, then when higher pressure is present in the manifold no air is allowed to go back and fill the pods/actuators. Think of all it as pressure. Not vaccum or boost, just no pressure or varying levels of pressure. That may help you to how it works a little easier. Atmo pressure is 14.7psi. An n/a engine still has pressure in the intake manifold when the throttle is open, just that it is only 14.7psi of pressure at sea level. A boosted engine running 10psi then has 24.7psi of pressure in the manifold. Just different levels of pressure. Otherwise n/a and boosted vacuum devices have to deal with the same issue (checkvalve). Something that relies on pressure to move the actuator like a wastegate or vacuum advance pod may be possible to move the actuator farther under higher boost until it bottoms out. That is why people like to use a threaded wastegate rod so you can change the loading on the actuator diaphram for different boost levels.

moved from the sticky, if you are going to use windows XP read this

thread moved out of sticky I wouldn't mount the ECU anywhere that turbo heat would get to it. Everything gets ruined from the heat off the turbo. I can't see that mounting it away from the turbo would be an issue as long as it doesn't get rained in. I prefer to mount mine in the passenger compartment.

I am deleting all troubleshooting and other posts from this thread. I will move any important information into the sticky. I am going to try to lock this thread, if I can't I will just continue to delete any threads posted under the install guide. All posts with questions, suggestions, corrections, troubleshooting, etc should be put in a new thread. I am not picking on anyone, just cleaning up this thread so people don't have to search through 50 posts if there setup doesn't work to find out if anything important is contained in the rest of the thread. Thanks

The gtech showed 250hp which is probably about right for 14psi at my altitude. I would expect someone at sea level at 11psi to be right about the same. I am going to up to 17psi and see what it shows.