mobythevan

I just going to list one example of when this would be bad for someone else that reads this thread and wonders where to locate the IAT. These numbers where measured on my car so this isn't made up. If you place the IAT before the turbo and don't run an intercooler your computer will read intake air temp of 70 degrees (on a 70 degree day), but at 10psi of boost you air temp in the intake manifold will be 180 degrees. On my car is was just as much work to put the IAT before turbo, before TB, or in the intake. I put it before the TB just to avoid the heat soaking issues. Do I ever want the computer reading the wrong intake air temps by hundreds of degrees, no way. The bottom line is that we run EFI to give us the advantage of being able to measure many aspects of the engine accurately and as close the combustion chamber as possible. Get your moneys worth from the computer and put the sensors as close the cylinderhead as is practical.

in the map sharing thread I have posted the files for 021u code, so worst case just install 021u on some old computer and download those settings to look at/print off.

Good setup. I have been working with a guy to use a lathe and be able to index to make the nothes like you did. Since the lathe is already set up to provide the indexing you will end up with a higher precision if it matters for the notching.

even though I haven't run a version 3 board, this post over on msefi.com stuck out at me. http://www.msefi.com/viewtopic.php?t=12543 has anyone tried this board mod that James suggests to get spark working? Sometimes the directions are hard to follow but James knows what will work. I would ask him on the MSnS_extra forum if you guys still have troubles.

Since nobody asked, are you sure none of the piping, couplers, IC are leaking? With megasquirt you would run just fine with a huge leak in the IC piping, but when you try to build boost the turbo just wouldn't be able to get there depending on the leak size. Otherwise back to tuning like everyone else said I suppose. Sounds like maybe you were running lean before the IC install and now that IC helps get more O2 in the engine requiring more fuel your not keeping up. The way I see it is that MS should adjust for the extra fuel from the IC install. So I would think you have inadequate fuel supply (pump, injectors too small) or your just adjusted lean and you need to tune the VE tables. Since you have MSD pump, 450cc injectors, it should be that your VE table is lean and was before the IC install. Wideband??

Your running MSnS_Extra code?

I just went down today and bought a stick of 1x3" 14gauge 15' long tubing for $30 (brand new steel).

2.5bar sensor will work fine for NA applications. And then when you put a turbo on it you won't need to buy a new one for up to 1.5bar boost.

Q5 drives the FIDLE line I believe. It was probably installed wrong, which is kind of easy to do on the transistors. I would replace it and check all of the other transistors to verify all are installed in the correct orientation and then try the stimulator again. If that is the only component that went out the laptop should still be able to communicate through the serial port so you know the processor is OK.

Don't know if they are the same but I do know that the GM sensors (coolant and IAT) are 3/8" NPT thread size. Now, does someone know what the thread size is for the nissan block?

I wanted to add one thing to this post. I really didn't read through the entire thing, but one problem that me and my buddy had with the two SBC MS setups we have done is with making sure that we had condensers in the system to filter out noise. We basically settled on making sure that we put two condensers in like most factory setups. One at positive coil and one at postive alternator. That helped greatly with noise spikes and false triggering, etc. However both of these setups were TPI so the distributor setup and coil was different (small cap TPI dizzies).

How is tuning going for you? Are you trying to dial in at 12.5:1 under boost or are you trying to go a little richer to run higher boost?

I remember mine being that easy, I bought my TB off ebay so who knows what style I really ended up with.

exactly, grab any IAT, measure three different temps and then use EasyTherm to calibrate a curve that you can use. Only thing is remembering to update the inc files everytime you change software versions or megatune versions.

A naive person might believe that the moon is made of cheese

I knew you could see the lunar rover with high power maginification. heh heh

MAP sensor measures absolute pressure. That means atmosphere pressure wherever you car is plus boost. at sea level = 14.7 + boost (2.5bar * 14.7psi) - (14.7psi if your at sea level) = 22.05psi now you see why you can raise the boost when you go up in altitude, but absolute pressure in the intake manifold remains the same for all practical purposes. At 6500' altitude where I am, atmospheric pressure is closer to 11psi. so (2.5bar * 14.7psi) - (11psi at 6500' above sea level) = 25.75psi I can run 25psi boost on the same sensor while someone at sea level can only run 22psi boost. If you run 22.05psi at sea level and I run 25.75psi at 6500 feet we both run 36.75psi in the intake manifold. Or, if we both run 22.05psi then my intake pressure is only 33.05 while yours is 36.75, so I loose that much pressure and horsepower from high altitude. The most fun thing from all of this is that I can run 18psi boost here on my L28et with stock headgsket and then sell it to Nelson at sea level and forget to turn it down. Now he will run more abosulte pressure and blow the head gasket (ha ha Nelson, just kidding, that is why we turned his boost down). I still think this is one of the best basic things to understand with boost so you don't read on the forum that joe blo runs x amount of boost and not realize he lives at 9000' altitude. Then you run out and crank your boost up like his thinking he is running all stock components and blow stuff up. The same for the reverse situation is that at high altitude you run sea level boost settings and wonder why your car doesn't perform. Hope that helps.

I don't remember shortening mine. I just combined parts from the original 280zx TB with the 240sx and ended up with something I could use. Kind of mix-n-match springs, levers, etc.

Courthouse had a mess up so it got re-scheduled for October 28th. I'll let you guys know after it happens next month.

astro chicken

Round 2 went like this. She got smarter (at least she thought so) and hired an attorney for the restraining order. Problem is that the judge asks why aren't we doing mediation since this is a neighbor dispute(remember that she wanted no part of mediation at the first hearing when she was respresenting herself). Her attorney, not wanting to look bad, says.. my clients are reasonable people and will go to mediation. All the while she is setting there shaking her head no and saying we don't want mediation. Shouldn't have hired a lawyer if you didn't want things to precede in a more sensible manner (heh heh). Round 3 is this Wed. Mediation, so we will see how that goes. It should be entertaining at least. If mediation falls through the next court date is Dec 5th. And we haven't even started into the harassment ticket yet. ughhhhhhh

heh heh, how young is that chick anyway?

I know it has been colder around here the last week, I bet your ASE settings are just not good for cold starts. The question is, does this only happen in the mornings when it is cold, or anytime. I am still recommending to everyone that you upgrade to the newer codes that allow you to set the ASE based on temp and not just a fixed time delay everytime the car is started. That helps to fix two problems, one that the engine is colder and needs the longer time, two that the engine is already warmed up and doesn't need any ASE.

There was a great article in one of my mags about when you want to apply the maximum cylinder pressure. You light the fuel off, then some amount of time later you get maximum cylinder pressure and you want the particular time to occur when the crankshaft has turned 90 degrees so the rod has the most leverage on the crankshaft. That was the rough idea. Of course all different fuel and mixture variables causes it to be more of experimentation to determine when maximum cylinder pressure is obtained. When you dyno tune in for that max hp number you should find out (assuming you could look into the engine) that you have moved timing to give you this relationship of maximum cylinder pressure to maximum rod/crankshaft leverage.

Thanks for the update Forrest. Hopefully power will get going in some areas and things will get under control.