mobythevan

here is a good example: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/83152-79-na-280zx-msns-install-variable-reluctor-dizzy/page__p__787850__hl__dizzy%20locked__fromsearch__1entry787850

I think you need to weld the mechanical advance mechanism in the distributor, unplugging the vacuum isn't enough. The distributor will still advance timing on its own as rpms increase. Search for locking the distributor, other people have done it with a bolt or welding. Once it is locked then megasquirt will be the only device controlling timing and your table will use correct numbers.

Hey guys, just came across another thing that could have made the turbo fail. Saw this guy on another forum talking about a turbo failure he saw when teflon tape was used on the oil feed line fittings. Some of the tape ended up clogging the turbo oil passages. Guess what, I used teflon tape on the fittings. That probably makes the most sense. Only other thing I saw was if the car sits for long periods to re-prime the turbo oil line before starting the car. I also see that it is recomended by several folks for this turbo size to use a AN -6 feed line and AN -12 drain. I'll look into that. Anyway, I am going to replace the turbo with a Borg Warner s400. That is a T6 frame bolt in replacement and supports ~900hp. Should spool earlier with 1.10 AR Turbine housing.

You have already proven you are willing to read and provide good details with your questions so you will do well with megasquirt.

Yeah, you have the right cable if you got it from DIY. In the old days some people would grab cables laying aorund shops or workplaces and end up with the wrong type.

When they say to jumper the pins on the 40 pin socket, they mean remove the processor chip and jumper the socket. That part of the instructions was intended to happen before the processor was plugged into the board. The only other simple thing is that two types of serial cables exist, crossove and straight through. Make sure you have the correct type for megasquirt (notice I didn't say which one is correct because I can't remember off hand, look in the manual).

Great News!

I moved the thread. I'll wait to see the answers to the questions that badjuju asked.

It seems you have checked everything that could cause the vacuum problem mechanically(cam timing, compression, intake leaks). How is the EDIS trigger wheel and sensor mounted? Could something have slipped in this area. I guess I ask the question if cam timing is good, valves are not bent, and compression is good, then what else in an engine can cause no vacuum when you fire it up? The glowing header is indication of retarded ignition timing. I think your problem is purely ignition related based on the details you provide. If I was in your situation and you've already beat your head against the wall for a while then I would throw an 83 turbo dizzy on the engine and see that everything works OK with the simpler setup before debugging the EDIS system. Assuming something went south on the EDIS system then what could it be? I'll throw out some things I have heard that could be wrong with EDIS systems: spacing between sensor and trigger wheel changed, two sensor wires are reversed, sensor wire noise/shielding, meqasquirt tooth settings. The final question, what does a timing light show during cranking? Nice and steady at your fixed angle setting or all over the place? I don't see anything in your posts about checking the ignition timing with a light. I know it is possible because I check my wasted spark LSx engine.

OK, 18 months later I decided to put closure to the turbo failure. Mainly the car has been setting because I have been catching up other things. My son is now old enough to be interested in the car so I had him help me pull the turbo last night and inspect everything. This is what I believe and what I found: -- Oil supply fittings, lines, all looks good and clear to the turbo(AN -4 no restriction). Feed is from recommended location on LSx oil pan above oil filter. This is filtered oil that it headed to the mains. Pressure measures good. -- Drain is 3/4 inch to oil pan location specified by banks install manual. Angle is not great, room for improvement here. I can blow into the drain tube and air comes out crank vents, but pressure builds in crankcase and when I let off some air comes back out drain tube. That doesn't seem right, the engine is going to have more blow by than I can blow into the crankcase, I would think??. I do not have a crank vent to intake so vacuum under light throttle will help evacuate, maybe I better do this. -- Took apart turbo and see that brass bushings and main shaft at location of bushings look OK. No scrapes, no heat marks, shaft still spins freely in bushings. Thrust surface is scuffed and has heat marks. Front seal is shot and scraped. Compressor wheel wobbles and hits housing. No signs of damage to fins from foreign object. -- Some Facts: Car never had a blow off valve. Car was driven about 10 times down driveway, less than 5 miles. Few hits of boost, about 8psi. Compressor always chopped/surged when throttle plate closed since no BOV. What I get from all of this: I am no turbo expert, but I don't see signs of oil starvation. I believe the first thing that happened was the compressor hit the housing and the shock bent the shaft. Once this happened and the compressor wheel started wobbling, then the thrust bearing made contact and heated up, the front seal wore out and that is how the turbo sets now. I think only two things would have caused the wheel to hit the housing at boost rpms, short loss of oiling (not sure how this would happen, even with crankcase pressure I should only see the seals fail and burn some oil) or compressor surge on letting off the throttle after boost run caused the wheel to shake and hit the housing. I believe the second occurred, but have no way to prove it. Remember, this is a T6 frame turbo with a 76mm compressor wheel. It was pushing some serious volume when I would let off the throttle and cause surge, I know a lot of people don't believe surge can hurt a turbo but I am convinced that compressor hit the housing because of it. I could be wrong, but I have to go with something and I don't see lack of oiling by looking at the bushings. What I apply to the next turbo setup from this experience: Try to angle the drain line better. Try to evacuate crank pressure better. Install a BOV from the beginning. Maybe run with the 1 quart overfill for the well known LSx sump issues.

A kpa of 97 at idle tells me the megasquirt MAP is reading atmospheric pressure, no vacuum. The only time I have seen that was when I forgot to connect the vacuum line from the intake to the megasquirt MAP sensor. Since I am sure you have the line connected I say it is a bad MAP sensor, whoever tested your megasquirt probably didn't do anything to test the MAP sensor, they likely just said "hmm, 97 kpa looks like it is working since it is not connected to an engine" Huge backfire = dead MAP sensor.

That is one of the best assessments of working with a rust car I have seen. No one with a rusted z car should have any illusion that the repair will be easy, quick or cheap. I scrapped my rusted 240z and bought a better one to start with.

Here are a couple of the typical EFI vs Carb threads, there are as many of these threads as you want to find on car forums: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/50776-fuel-method http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/62395-fi-vs-carburetorwhat-should-i-do

This is a question that gets asked a lot all over the internet. You will find people that support both sides. When it comes to emissions I don't think anyone will argue that EFI is best. When it comes to max horsepower there is nothing wrong with using a carb. Use a carb for simplicity. Going turbo, probably worth using EFI to squeeze out more power through more control. No one will touch this kind of topic because it has been discussed before many times. If you want to get a discussion started then list your specific goals for your car and we can postulate on carb vs EFI for your setup.

Have you tried pressurizing the intake and checking for leaks? I do this routinely with my eagle talon.

I read through the list of new features and what stuck out to me was VE table resolution Spark table resolution GM stepper IAC Closed loop idle control Other than that I didn't see anything else that I need. Sequential injection, tuning by cylinder and other things that require the expansion board will be fun to play with but not necessary for me.

I wonder how flame front collision works in the oval cylinders? EDIT: I see the center is high so quench must eliminate the flame front issue.

ha ha, and we are expecting blizzard conditions this weekend. Spring time in Colorado. Last week at the horse expo in Denver I was out in a t-shirt on Thursday and it was snowing like crazy on Friday. Gotta love it.

Yes, spring is upon us. Thus bench racing ends and jack stand racing begins.

Posting the msq and a datalog will help us learn about your car setup and what could be going wrong.

I was putting everything in a 240 so I didn't encounter this issue. Maybe someone else will chime in.

No updates, these instructions should still work for v2.2 and v3.0 MSI installs. I am waiting for my money situation to be right before drag racing my rx7 with LSx engine. I still run my car routinely to make sure everything is working, no other problems so far.

And thanks to you for putting the answer up here to help other people in the future. I did not know how to add it and was waiting to see if you found the answer.