mobythevan

I have not run the calculations recently, but I do believe an MS1 will not sample fast enough to support a 60 tooth wheel. I would think MSII solves this problem, the guys at DIYautotune would know that off hand. Looking back at my megasquirt LS1 install notes I see this: I am sure I said that 58 tooth will not work because the tooth events at high rpm become too fast for the MS1 processor to sample. Like I said, I think the MSII processor would solve this because it runs much faster. Someone should verify so we know it is only an MS1 limitation.

good find

The mounting system in the picture was wonky, I never liked it when I used the setup. The only reason I found that thread is because I remembered posting in it so I looked through my posts to find it. I figured that was faster then piling through the search. Anyway, good luck

I am not sure if the mounting changed, but this thread has a pic in the third post that shows the way JSK rails got mounted. I had one and it was mounted like this thread shows, but maybe there were improvements since then. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/60317-need-advice-on-installing-jsk-fuel-rail

You are right Mario and Matt, I was thinking relay board.

Megasquirt has two power inputs. One constant 12 volts and one switched 12 volts. So the constant should have power all the time, like directly from the battery through a fuse. The switched should only have power during cranking and running.

In the bottom right corner of megatune is a box that says "connected" it will grey out if megatune is not connected to megasquirt. Is that what you are seeing when trying to start? If so, then you probably don't have 12 volt power that is on during cranking and running. I may be mis-interpreting what you mean by "offline"

When you connect the trigger wire from the optical CAS to your relay board/megasquirt it requires that a resistor also be connected to make the CAS actually trigger megasquirt. Connect the CAS wire to your megasquirt like the manual says, then add the resistor from that wire to 12 volts. Verify that megatune shows rpm during cranking.

Yes, with MS2 you should use the coil driver on the megasquirt board if it fits your application. Lots of people use it and there will be much more support than using the 7/8 pin HEI.

I have used the 7/8 pin HEI with megasquirt to run TPI chevy engines. I had the megasquirt controlling the Vref. That way the engine cranks/starts on HEI fixed timing, then transitions to megasquirt controlled timing. Check this link to see how I had the 7/8 pin HEI wired, notice I used two output from megasquirt where you are trying to only use one. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?showtopic=36691

Yeah, thats it. The EDIS setup removes slop compared to the Distributor setup. It also adds multiple coils and wasted spark. You don't have to use EDIS, you can use any type of crank trigger setup. EDIS is just a common one. Multiple coils and wasted spark helps greatly at high rpms versus a single coil. It allows more charge time which allows hotter spark at higher rpms.

We had a lot of problems with NGK plugs in our talons under boost. I just went to autolites and never looked back. They create a much wider/larger spark between the electrodes, yeah the trade off is that they eat themselves up faster, but it has fixed all of our spark blowout. We still gap them down, but over several different applications under boost I like the autolites (I know, flame away .

What was bad with the relay board? It might help other people to hear the details.

It eliminates the stock ecu.

Have you used niner11 or cygnus's maps to get your car started?

The sticky does have a section on using the 81 CAS and Dizzy because Tony D. was using that setup. If you can't find I can locate it again. Remember that the 81-83 cars had the factory computer controlling the spark timing through the distributor, megasquirt does the same thing. It is easier to understand if you look at the rotor arm of an old distributor versus a computer controlled car like the 83 distributor. You will see that the end of the rotor arm is much wider allowing the computer to advance and retard timing, but still keeping the rotor close to the post. So a wide range of timing can be used by the computer. If you use an old style dizzy with MS that does not have the wide rotor arm and you weld it so there is no mechanical timing control, just ECU timing control, then you could end up being far away from the post when you try to send spark. For large advance number you could have problems with the spark not jumping to the post and get misfires I suppose. The two key items between a dizzy for computer control versus mechanical control is no mechanical advance and wider rotor arm on a computer controlled dizzy.

It is true that you should see RPM during cranking in tuner studio. Until that happens it really doesn't matter if the spark output side works. This boils the problem down to the VR sensor and megasquirt VR input circuit (v3.0 board). Hey , it never hurts to ask basic questions right, so do you have TachSelect jumpered to VRin and VRout(or VRoutinv) jumpered to Tsel? Without those jumpers you don't really get the VR signal passed all the way to the processor on a v3.0 board. If those are in I would look at the singals with an oscilliscope going to VRin and coming out of VRout.

Doesn't sound good, I have not had one act like that.

The main thing is that all 12 volt to coil, CAS and pullup needs to be on during cranking and running. In case you grabbed a source that is only on during running and not cranking.

Fair enough. I think you will be fine if you use the newer transistor on the megasquirt board. Just ask Matt Cramer which one.

Your sig says you have a MS v3.0 board so you should be able to use the transistor on the megasquirt to fire the coil and control the dwell. Does your board have the transistor installed?

No need to delete this, it is a good question. There was a time that I didn't know that any standard coil needed a transistor to fire it. A thread like this would have helped me a lot back then.

Are you saying that you have the car warmed up and then you shut if off and restart which leads to a minute of idling OK then going lean? During this time you need to make a log so we can see what is happening. Then we can rule out for sure ASE and WUE and see what the real culprit could be.

With the car ignition turned on you will measure 12 volts on both sides of the injector, this does not mean the injector is open/activated. The side of the injector connected to power/realy will always show 12volts as you stated. The side of the injector connected to megasquirt will be 12volts when the injector is closed/no fuel flow. It will then be pulled to ground on this side by megasquirt to open the injector and flow the fuel. It is hard to measure with a multi meter since the time is real short during the open time of the injector(milliseconds). If you measured 12 volts on one side and low volts on the other then your injector would be open and flowing fuel all the time. This doesn't sound like it is happening to you. If you have a fuel pressure gauge on the fuel rail and the pressure holds steady after the fuel pump shuts off then your injectors are probably not leaking. This doesn't always work because a lot of systems don't hold pressure in the supply line anyway because of leaky fuel pump check valves.

When you got the new wideband you programmed the outputs for the voltage range that megatune expects right? And you checked to see what megatune is expecting in order to program the outputs. I know, I always ask the basic questions.