Z U L8R

i finally got in touch with my buddy with a 35r on his rb25. he said 20psi around 4k-4.2k , built bottom end but stock head/cams/and even stock intake manifold, he made 500rwhp/420tq @ 19psi on pump gas, then he got the greddy intake, and pon cams and made 560rwhp@24psi on race gas. the 35r doesn't sound too big now =] kick ass @ thehelix112 =] , ya 30/76 not enough. amen, and headwork is later, right now gotta throw a bigger turbo at the equation and situmawate my drivetrain....you'll see in a sec as far as the gtk500....on an l28, i think you'll be fine and you'll make some good numbers 450ish is my guess. msg me when you get it on there and tuned. i wanna see ur graph. i broke my "new" rb20 tranny on the way home from work today rolling into third gear. soon as it hit 20 psi my tranny said "gdflkdjfggkjhiurggjigjfijfg" i don't know why i did but i was on the side of the interstate and i called my tuner....he picked me up and my car on his trailer. on the way home he tells me to open up this box, and in it is his frankenstein turbo to try out. i see the exhaust side first..... hmmmm .63 a/r ok....it's temp coated....sweet, i turn it over, daaaaaaaayuuum!! dats a big ass compressor housing...on it said gt4082r 68 trim...i think it's a .72 a/r compressor housing. i have no clue how that joker's gonna fit but by golley we're gonna pop that big summabich on there GIT R DUNN! lol i'll let yall know how it goes.......on a side note.....anyone ever put an s13 rear subframe in an s30??? and can i put my rb20 front bellhousing on a z32 tranny and be good to go? once i redo my driveshaft that i just got back and installed before leaving work with some nice REMOVEABLE ford u-joints and a thicker / balanced shaft AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH. *sigh i love you guys lol Dave =]

lol well i broke my second rb20 tranny today rolling into third gear. soon as 20psi hit...my tranny goes "gldafdsgkagdsl;jflkdsfjsfja;dakf;df" those exact words lol. time for an upgrade. Andy i'm comin for that azz , all i'll say is it's got a GT4082r compressor housing on it =P

lemme know how that goes, the hx35 is still on my passenger floor board. it's a pretty heavy bastard lol. mine has a dsm flange on it so it'd be some unnecessary modifications to get it on my t3 flange'd exhaust mani. plus i think the turbo's sweet spot is above my motor's. definately though lemme know what you think when you try it. this is a great forum =]

i'd really like to see jtaylor's all motor dyno graph with mods at the time ie cams or stock cams etc etc. to get an idea of when it'd kick in etc etc etc i called precision and they said they can do gt30/76r's with a 60mm inducer for about 1400 bucks, 3 days to make, 3 days to ship, at my door in about a week. i have to sleep on it and get with my tuner about his frankstein turbo's he's wanting to try before i commit to anything. as a comparison my gt30/71r has a 53mm inducer and a gt35r has a 61mm inducer. so a 60mm inducer on a gt30/76r sounds like it'd be just a smiggin laggier than my existing turbo (which spools pretty damn fast) with barely less flow than a gt35r......sounds pretty kick ass, hope it comes with a bag of chips too cause i'm hungry lol. Dave =]

never done lsx coils, but basically they should have 3 wires (all nissan coils i've seen have 3 wires) one is ignition 12volt, indicated by a + , one is ground, indicated by a -, the other is the ground signal from the ecu/ignitor (in nissan coils) marked E. if the lsx coils have 3 wires once you identify eachs purpose the same rule applies. from experience, it's pretty easy to short out a coil if you've been drinking and hook the wires up incorrectly so be mindful lol. SERIES 2 GUYS, how to wire in a z32 ignitor basically the ignitor's got 7 pins on one side and 6 on the other, usually from top to bottom the order of the wires are 153624 with a G in the middle. G is ground so ground that to the chassis or motor, whichever's easier for u. just to be safe, since it's your first time, google an ecu pinout of your rb. now look at your ecu plug. write down your wire colors for the ignition signal for each cylinder. then look at your coil pack subharness big grey plug and the wires going to it from the engine harness should be the same as the colors you wrote down from the ecu plug. now you've isolated the ignition signal wires for each cylinder. now you have to decide which harness you want to cut the plug off, your main wiring harness or your coil pack subharness. i'd go with the coil pack subharness since you're not going to use them anymore and if you do your ignition system is plug n play. if you don't wanna trace or write down the colors from the ecu you can also look at the wire color on each coil marked E for each cylinder and trace those back to the grey plug at the ignition coil subharness. your choice. now that you've found each cylinder signal wire you can wire it into your ignitor plug. it really doesn't matter what order you put them in, as long as coming out of the ignitor and then going to your coil pack is the same corresponding cylinder however i like to keep it factory so i don't have to remember stuff so from the top down 153624. and again the middle black wire marked G is ground. i know your ignitor probably says 123 G 456 but that's not the corresponding cylinder so make sure you're using the correct wire for the correct cylinder, 1 should be 1, 2 should be 5, 3 = 3, g = ground 4 = 6, 5 = 2, 6 =4 (now i probably confused most of you) that's why i say just identify and double check them how i've explained above so you don't make any mistakes. if you want get a piece of masking tape and a sharpie and tag each wire once you've identified it so you don't forget =] so now you've wired in your ignitor and now you're ready to send each cylinder's ignition signal to the correct tab on the coil pack. Streeteg: if you understand this, i think you should try to see if series 2 needs or doesn't need an ignitor, worst case scenario is the coil back feeds power to the ecu which is giving the coil signal a ground signal and you pop your ignition circuits in your ECU and you never have spark >_< lol i don't think that'll happen but it's a risk. since i believe lsx coils are basically coil on plug, it'd be just like the nissan coil packs (just stronger) as far as wiring it in. however the question is does an lsx coil pack have a built in ignitor like the series 2 rb25's do or do they have a separate ignition control module and/or an ICM built into the lsx ecu. that's the only question there. if you need an ignitor, than just wire one in line like i've explained above. it's pretty late here, i've already fixed an oil pan on an sr20 tonight and got that thing to pump oil on a friend's car, then i travel across town to wire in a z32 maf for another friend's rb20, then my mother calls me and tells me her 2001 camry won't start or even turn over, so it's 11:47pm, her batteries on the charger so maybe she can get 1 start and drive to autozone while i'm at work, and i've already put in my 10 hour day at my shop LOL so feel my EMO exhaustion muwhahaaha. but seriously if something doesn't make sense to you, i'd rather you ask me than mess your car up, so send me a pm or post up your question or whatever. thx again and enjoy Dave =]

u did good brother no doubt about it. wish my engine bay was that clean =]

gj at super clean engine, sexy sexy here's what i did, none of that hot engine bay air, especially from the fans kicking the hot air off the radiator

if i could do it all over again i would do twin turbo v8 rofl

Set up 1986 Buick Regal Grand National 3.8 turbo Ignition coil, MSD 8.5mm Ignition Cable Set, NGK BKR7E @ .028 gap Materials Sheet Metal Screws Something to space the coil from the chassis (you can stack nuts, or make a hollow cylendrical thingy for looks) 90 degree Insulated Female Spade Terminals Some wire, i can't spell SODDER wtf (soldier?) Wire strippers/crimpers, something to screw in your sheet metal screws with Zip ties + electrical tape *And of course an ignition cable set aka spark plug wires. most parts stores have the 8.5 msd wire sets. yes you only need 6 wires, but depending on where you have room to mount your coil....the v8 msd wire set has longer wires than the v6 does. and i think it's a couple dollar difference. just thought i'd mention that as well. Procedure all rb firing order is the same 1-5-3-6-2-4, therefore 1 and 6 are up at the same time, 2 and 5, 3 and 4. if you look at the top of the coil starting from top left is 1 and going to the top middle 2, top right 3, bottom right 4, bottom middle 5, bottom left 6. so going clockwise it goes 1,2,3,4,5,6. now flip it over vertically? 1 & 6 on the left, 2 & 5 in the middle, 3 & 4 on the right. now staring you in the face are 6 male spade terminals, a row of 3 at the top, and a row of 3 at the bottom. On the top row of 3 you're going to give each terminal 12volt ignition power via that thick white wire on the 2 pin grey plug that goes to the ignition coil subharness. Best way is to run 1 wire then tap 2 other leads off of that to the other 2 spade terminals. On the bottom row of 3 you're gonna start from the left with cylinder's 1 and 6. find your ignitor (series 1), isolate your cylinders 1 and 6 ignition signal wire (you may need to extend them) and connect 1 and 6 on the bottom left, then 2 and 5 for the bottom middle, and 3 and 4 for the bottom right. Side note When i converted my friend's series 2 to this set up, I wired in an ignitor from a z32, wired the pigtails into his harness, then continued the way i have instructed above. i do not know if series 2 guy's can run this set up without wiring in an ignitor or not because i've never tried. the difference between series 1 and series 2 is that the series 1 has an external ignitor and the series 2's ignitors are built into each coil therefore when you remove the coils you do not have an ignitor aka power transistor unit. it might just work without one for the series 2 guys, i'm just not sure as i myself have never tried it without a PTU. If you wanna run an autometer tach, buy MSD part # 8918 ~$30 Tach Signal Pick up, clip it to the thick white ignition 12volt supply wire, finish wiring it all in via the autometer/msd instructions and bada bing, your tach works now too =] hope this helped Dave =]

thx lol hmm...... my questions to him, how much power at how much boost? when does full boost kick in? do you like it? is it a laggy sob? lol thx

dunno if you could see my graph, i made it bigger hopefully it'll work stock head/cams/ 20psi, 93 octane pump gas, gt30/71r, motor keeps making power, turbo kicks in soon but runs out of steam at 6k Pink is 20psi with 4.11 on old tune (the recent tune after going back to my 4.11 aka my sig, we didn't print out cause the dyno was wigging out) Blue is 20psi with 3.54 rear end Red is 14psi with 3.54 rear end

oh, absolutely. i agree with you@ streeteg but from my position. my tuner's got a couple turbo's we can try, and he'd work something out with me for my 30/71. so that means i don't come out of pocket any/much and my hp goes up . the other side of the coin is that i haven't reached the limit of my cams yet, but i have reached the limit of my turbo. so i think it'd be best to start with upping the turbo, see how far that takes me, if then the turbo puts me at my cam's limits, THEN it's time for me to do cams =], or if the Winner turbo is too lazy, then i'll do the cams then too. so right now it's more an issue of priority and out of pocket expense. if my tuner's frankenstein turbo's don't do what we're looking for i'll probably go with the gt30/76 as that's the last step before the dreaded 35r lol, THEN get cams for the extra hp and powerband benefits. i put more ideas in my getting owned in mexico thread if you check that out too. does anyone know ANYONE with a 35r on an rb25? note to self: trying out turbo's is a lot more complicated than trying out shoes, but a lot less complicated than trying out women ROFL

j-taylor what turbo are you running? 1 fast z: when i was researching cams, they recommended the kelfords which i believe are 264's with an 8.5mm lift. the tomei poncams i believe the 256's have a sub 9mm lift as well (not sure off the top of my head exactly the mm). basically the consensus i got was anything over a 9mm lift, and you're gonna need your head machined, and definately would be a good idea to get springs. then if you're getting your head milled and springs why not get ferrea valves as well. AND THEN if i'm gonna do all that, then i might as well delete the lifters and go cam on valve which is the advantage the 26 and rb20's have over the 25, which is why they can rev higher. you can go on and on. so realistically what's your hp goal?? stock cams can go a long way, i'd recommend your $$$$ go into other modifications before cams. just my .02

update. clutch is fine, i wanna run z0-sick again with this 4.11 i think with 15 less hp i'll take him, only thing is my little 245/60/14's are down to the tread bar and second gear (unless tires/and street are warm) is gettin a little squirly from a roll on. 240zwannabe: i been thinking 600rwhp also, seems like u'd have to go laggy 35r as far as the garret's go. cams would help it spool a little sooner, and then you could always kick it's ass with a little nitrous muwhahhaha. the gt30/76 looks pretty promising though for 500+rwhp and very nice spool time/power band. it's rated to 525 rwhp, i think that particular turbo with cams and some headwork on c16 could put you around 570-580ish rwhp, it's spool quick as hell. i think all in all if you don't want lag that'd be the best option. right now i'm experimenting with different turbo's but i may end up 30/76 also. as far as turbonetics go, the gtk650 is what ed@turbonetics was recommending for a clean 600rwhp, but man.....i've seen the gtk500 on a friend's srt4 and it's a big summabich (to me). he hated it, he liked his car more pushing the stock turbo to its max making 100+ less hp because it was just way more fun to drive. however he did compare his gtk500 srt4 to a gt35r srt4 and the spool on the gtk kicked it's ass by about 1000 rpm he said. all in all though i think i'd rather have a 35r than a gtk650, not to mention the gtk cheapest i seen is like 1400, and the 35r retail is like 1200 so you could probably pick one up for around a G if you got a connection. something interesting i found. lately my boost has been like 19psi then it goes to 20, or 20 then goes to 21. i was talking with george@atpturbo (he knows his stuff) about my set up and before i even mentioned about my boost creep he had said my 38mm external wastegate was a little small for an rb25. he said to go 44mm so i'm either gonna cut the flange and put on a 44mm on the xspower or cut the whole 38mm tube at the runner, and increase the diameter of the wastegate runner as well as the wastegate. just thought that was a little helpful info. today i'm dropping off the first driveshaft i broke to the driveshaft place to get them to beef it up and put in bigger/serviceable u-joints. cause the rear u-joint on my driveshaft now is starting to have a little play. depending on what they charge me, i may just end up getting the big $400 joker from Motorsport Auto. i guess that's the good thing about running the rb20 tranny =P . however when i DO get this new turbo on my car and i'm making more power....depending on how long this new rb20 tranny lasts me, i might have to step that up too >_< OH OH OH! ABSOLUTELY POSITIVELY COASTAL 85W-140 in the tranny for teh WIN. it's gl3,4,&5 and it's SOOOOOOOOOOOOO much smoother shifting. the coastal 85w-140 totally owns the mobil 1 75w-140 and any other 70w-90 take it ez, Dave =]

aiight, now i'm leaning towards a gt30/76....it's still a t3 flange, it's a 310-525hp capable turbo. in comparison to mine which is a 300-460hp capable turbo. i think if i put it on and run 18-20 lb of boost it should put me around 480-490rwhp....which'll leave me pissed cause i didn't break the magical 500 number but happy cause it's not much more laggy.... i think the next step would be a 35r =[ but i think all the 30/76 will push will be right under 500rwhp and then it'll be maxed out too =[ the search continues.... J SOLEAU WHAT TURBO YOU RUNNING???

ok....been searching and the full-race 60-1 says it's a 580rwhp capable turbo...i've heard the turbonetics gtk turbo's ain't all that, but i was looking at the gtk600. unless there's a better performing option from another company (indirect way of asking one of you), i'm leaning towards the full-race 60-1 or the 62-1 with i think it's a .64 exhaust a/r....... being that i'm still on stock head/cam, i think i'll be limited to 500-550ish....so i may opt for the 60-1 with maybe the .84 a/r. i think on a stock 2j those make 470rwhp@15ish psi?? might have been 17psi but anywho. i heard about the ihi turbo's back in the sr20det days, that like a t28 sized ihi could do hi 300's. i dunno, right now i'm fishing. if i spend over a G on another turbo i want it to be all that and a bag of chips lol thx for the info thus far, keep it comin Dave =]

bigger turbo'll make same power at less boost, therefore more power at same boost. like a small turbo will spin it's ass off for 22psi but how much air is it actually moving? whereas a bigger turbo @ 14psi is forcing just as much air into the motor as the little turbo was,but at a lower boost. i'm definately not the turbo expert (which is why i'm asking y'alls advice) but that makes sense to me. cfm is more crucial than psi in regards to what's going to benefit my motor. but too much psi and my motor go BOOM LOL i know i could swap my .63 exhaust a/r to a bigger one like an .84 or something but i'd probably only get 20-30 more hp....and i know me, and i won't be happy with that. i kinda hear what you're saying @ justin, but my problem at hand isn't that my head's not flowing enough, or my cam's not letting the head flow enough, or what not. at this point my turbo can only do what it can do and it won't do much more. headwork and cams and all that are fine and dandy, but that's for later, when my power goal is restricted by their capabilities. any votes for the fastest spooling turbo capable of 600 rwhp?

stock cams, 20psi, 93 octane, rb25det, gt30/71r if you can't see pic well, here's link http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=viewImage&friendID=96052757&albumID=0&imageID=13750566 and i think the torque falls off at the very end because the turbo's running out of steam. we'll find out soon enough =] that dyno's with the 3.54 rear end. i just put my 4.11 back in it and had my tuner put more fuel in up top so i sacrificed 5hp < Longevity

i just take out the other relay.... with both relays the ecu wouldn't turn off. when i took one out, everything works perfectly

well. don't think i'll be going with the holset. #1 the exhaust housing has a dsm flange, so unnecessary fabricating would need to be done. #2 it's a heavy ass wheel to spin. #3 it's a boost happy turbo, as in the turbo likes to be 25-40psi. Which would be great for a dsm or an srt4 since they love a crap load of boost, but not really a nissan motor that i'm not comfortable pushing passed 20psi on pump gas. all in all i've decided close to 600rwhp is my goal. i doubt my puny rb20 tranny, l28 driveshaft, and r200 are gonna be able to take the abuse if i ever take off my street tires, but we'll see how long it lasts lol. now that i have my goal. i'm thinking a 62-1 with a t3 exhaust flange if i can find one with a t3 flange. if not then I'll hack away at my uber expensive XS Power manifold of excellence and put a t4 flange or t3 & t4 combo flange on it, then i can try out turbos with either a t3 or t4 flange. *shrug honestly i don't think the rest of my car could even handle 600rwhp, and my motor's basically still stock, with just pistons, studs, and HG so i'm not sure what it can handle either... I was thinking of doing cams or nitrous but bottom line is my motor can make more power than it is and the turbo is the weakest link at this point. I don't think i will ever be content.....>_< i think a 60-1 will improve me a little but not be enough in the long run. i'd rock it for a while, then end up going bigger again, and the 62-1 is prolly a tad on the laggy side, a 61-1 would be ideal.....if that exists??? someone who knows their turbos.....what would you recommend for fastest spooling 600rwhp turbo?

thx bro =] 8-900 bucks

anyone?

Basically I'm going for a little more gusto. Of course i'd love 600+ but i think i'll be content for a while with 500-560rwhp. I think that's about all my current fuel system will allow. I don't wanna go 35r. I'll be selling my turbo pretty soon. It's a GT30/71r dual ball bearing cartridge, .63 a/r exhaust /w t3 flange, .60 a/r compressor housing. been on the car since march, no problems with it at all other than the most i've made on it is 441rwhp/381rwtq@22psi, on 93 octane it's pretty consistent 420rwhp/360rwtq@20psi with with a low 12 a/f ratio. I had him put more fuel up top this last tune with the 4.11 rear end, 5hp less with more fuel is worth the trade off. all in all it's a pretty perfect match for the rb25's, full boost at 3900rpm, at 3700rpm with stock head/cams it makes 350rwtq all the way to 6k. A friend is letting me borrow his holset hx35? i wanna say it is, i think it's .82 exhaust a/r and .71 or .72 a/r compressor. not sure if this turbo's a good choice or not. i don't know it's capabilities, and i don't wanna lag too too bad. he said he's seen em on his friend's 2.0 4g63 (dsm eclipse gsx) and full boost was around 4-4100rpm. he said it should be 650rwhp capable turbo. i don't know anything about holsets, you guys think this is worth $650? before i pull off my turbo, fabricate a flange (dsm to t3 adapter) , buy the dump plate, redo my downpipe, then plumb the bastard. is this too much turbo? anyone else know about holsets? thanks Dave =]

thx man @ streeteg i know a bunch of people that'll hand me my ass @ BleachZee , i run for fun so i don't mind seeing how i do vs them. i just like vids period win or lose, gives me motivation to fix it when i break it. ever notice how you'll fix a friend's car in a heartbeat...but something easy as hell to knock out on your own car you're like...bah...i'll do it later rofl >_< right now this is my daily......and i don't think my clutch is liking it =[ during the vid clutch was fine, no problems, but i think now it's getting time for a new disc nooooeeeeez!!

Os Geiken Ftmfw!!