Z U L8R

very nice brotha =] what's the specs on that turbo again?

to the fill hole is the proper way but you won't have any problems if you put 3 quarts in there, i have the fsm but i'm too much of a lazy bastard to go look it up, and i always put just shy of 3 qts in em and never have problems. i believe the proper spec should be around 2.75qts. it calls for 75w-90 but i would STRONGLY recommend 75w-140 synthetic (the only way i've ever found that was in synthetic), when the car's ice cold it'll be a little notchy shifting, but i've known a lot of trannies to mess up with 75w-90, and zero to mess up with 75w-140

lol ya the tail to the tank the side would be from the rail. i don't see how it would be universal for any oe nissan fuel rail for any early 90 motors, since they all have the two screw flange set up. if you can't get it to work with your rail it's either buy a rail......or just use the stock fpr (there's nothing wrong with the stock ones =P) good luck mayne

typicall the curved part at the tail is the return to the tank, and off the side bolts to the rail not has a nipple like yours does. But in any case, starting from the tank/pump, then to the fuel filter, then from the filter the hose supplies the rail, flows through the injectors, then the fuel pressure is regulated AFTER the injectors, then returns to the tank.

he was running t3/t4, 550's, safc2, 20psi boost (that definately helped contribute). all in all i wanna say his problem was tuner, but someone did mention to me the stuff about cylinder 6 being a problem with knock off intakes, so i thought it might be worth mentioning.

i've heard a rumor that the knock off intake plenums don't flow to cylinder 6 correctly or somethingruther not beneficial to cylinder 6 and my friend with his ku intake just blew up and took apart his motor, and low and behold cylinder 6 has a half dollar sized hole in the piston. could be coincedence *shrug

the greddy ownz, accept no substitue. i finally found a tuner, thank you jesus. i tuned it tuesday. on the $200 ebay, xs power t3/to4e .57 a/r comp, peice of crap turbo that'll hit 15psi then after 5,000 rpm slowly go to 14, i made 304rwhp, 274 ft lb torque @ ~15psi. with the 4.11 rear end, i'm very pleased. i have to modify my exhaust manifold to make my gt30/71 clear my valve cover so i'm not gonna mess with anything until i blow up the crap turbo LOL.

lol, not too shabby, only thing i can see it lacking -if it fits well- are supports to keep the welds from cracking. if you made a bracket or just re-enforced the welds a little i think it'd get you by nicely Dave =]

the greddy is the ♥♥♥♥. i looked at it in comparison to my friend's ku and the velocity stacks are the same size. i have WAY more, like 5 more inches of clearance from the side of the plenum to the side of the fender than he does. everything bolted straight up, i'm not using an iac at the moment so i made a plate for it out of aluminum that i did matched up with the iac gasket and one of the holes for that was a little off. the only other issues i've had with it are i had to clean the threads up for the coolant temp and coolant sender, and since the q45 90mm throttle body is so big and the throttle cable on the q45 is on the driver side, i have to make a bracket to hold the throttle cable in place. the greddy has a place for it but it's on the passenger side. i must say though the greddy kicks ass and i'm very pleased. if i had to do it again, i'd get the greddy over the ku. i would have liked to flow test both manifolds and get a true true comparison but oh well LOL. i've never ran such a big throttle body so once i'm done i'll let you know if it's sleepy at low rpms.

well i got the Greddy today. it came with all the mounting hardware, vacuum lines, instructions, and all. it's got the bungs on the underside which i like as well as the cut out for the idle air control valve. all in all i'm happy with it. the ku engineering that my friend has is not really different at all, in fact it looks like the runners(velocity stacks) may even be a tad larger on his as well as having a smoother surface. also his plenum is polished so it's shiny and sexy where as the greddy is regular grayish silver and bumpy. all in all we'll see what his car makes with a gt35r and mine with a gt30/71r. i must be the victor in the dyno queen battle roflmao

i've been using my custom one, i just broke down and got a real greddy, and 90mm q45 tb, i got the tb already , intake should be here tuesday. the ku engineering is decent my buddy's got that on his and he hasn't had any problems with it, just make sure they weld the throttle body flange on.

correct the majority of the wires on the dash plug go to the ecu, that is why the dash plug needs to be wired in to the vehicle's ignition switch. basically you need to slowly cut the dash plug off and lengthen the wires to the correct sources. then your ecu will come on. that's what chris's diagram will tell you which wire from the plug goes to what, your ecu will not work unless you wire in the wires that go to that dash plug. you need to cut off the grey with red stripe wire from the dash plug and wire it into the thick yellow/black wire that's on the ignition switch, that's how you do the "start signal" wire. and the rest of the wires on the dash plug also need to be cut off of the dash plug and routed to their correct sources, and that's what chris's instructions will tell you to do. there's no way around it. basically you know that the majority of the wires going to that dash plug go to the ecu, and if you do not send those wires to the power's and sources they need then your ecu will not work and your car will not run. your problem is the ecu will not come on, and the solution is, if you send the correct powers/sources to the dash plug which ultimately go to the ecu, your ecu will come on. if you haven't wired in any of the wires that go to the dash plug of course your ecu won't come on, because it's not getting the powers it need to come on. and you'll find the "how to" do that in chris's instructions

the last driveshaft price i had done was the stock 240z driveshaft, cut shorter, and welded an rb25det yoke on the front, then balanced it, it was only $60. after that the initial measurements turned out to be too long so we took it back, they cut it shorter and rebalanced it for free.

you have a series 2 rb25det. the only difference is you have internal ignitors built onto each coil pack instead of one ignitor giving signal to all 6 coil packs. you don't have an ignition relay, you have only an ecu relay. you don't have a thick red wire on your dash plug. i am a mechanic by the way lol. please tell me EVERYTHING that's connected on your dash plug, and what wire you have going to what kind of power or ground source. if you tell me EVERY wire on the plug that you've connected to something, i'll be able to tell you what to do next.

the first pic none of those are necessary, the second pic you labeled everything correctly, the brown you are correct is what they call a junction block there are grounds going there. for the white dash plug basically you need to cut the wires off it one by one and then send them to the correct source. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=115833 i can't walk you through wire by wire, but Chris already did, all the info you need is here and here http://www.gweeds.net/carpage2/rb25diagram.jpg http://www.gweeds.net/carpage2/RB25DET_ECR33_Pinout.pdf Pin 104 is AF77 it is an orange wire that goes to the dash plug. the function is unknown, you do not need it connected.

ya, you have to connect the dash plug wires, wire it into your cefiro just like Chris Rummel does on the Z. follow his instructions -"CHRIS RUMMELS EASY TO FOLLOW WIRING AN RB IN A Z"- on how to wire in the dash plug into the ignition switch. if you do it how he says your car will start , not a problem helping somebody, anytime, take care David

one other question, so your wiring harness that goes through the fire wall, you have the big blue ecu plug, you have 2 blue relays, one big ground eyelet with a bunch of black wires going to it, you have one white shaped "dash plug" and you also have ANOTHER connector going to the A/T computer BUT YOU DON'T HAVE AN A/T COMPUTER? hypothetically on any car that has a separate computer for the automatic transmission, if you unplug the A/T computer, turn the key to the ON position, and manually apply 12volts to the starter solenoid, the car should start and run, therefore, if you have the ecu getting power and grounds correctly regardless of if there is an A/T computer present or not, if that starter will turn the motor over the engine should run and start. this may not even be a problem for you. if it still doesn't start after you wire in the grey/red wire , and ground the green/orange wire, double check the 2 grounds towards the front of the engine that are on the intake manifold. if it still doesn't start then the "dash plug" is not wired correctly. good luck

as far as the grey/red stripe wire you're going to wire that into a wire that gets 12v+ when the key is in the "START" position. you can wire that into the ignition switch, usually nissan is a thick black/yellow stripe. the NEUTRAL SWITCH signal goes to pin #44 off the ecu it should be GREEN/ORANGE stripe (nv11), it taps into the dash plug where it's still green/orange and the dash plug calls it CQ51 and the green/orange wire also goes to an 8 pin plug named A-17. as far as the green/orange wire it doesn't matter where you tap into it, GIVE IT GROUND sorry for the misunderstanding David

this is like the fourth frickin s14 sr20 harness i've had to fix because the person before me keeps poppin the ecu LOL, whats up with that. it's always the "well i've done s13 sr20 swaps so this one shouldn't be that hard" hahaha >_< POP, they should put a label on the harness that says "this ain't like an s13, C tech's should not attempt this conversion" pays the rent i guess i shouldn't be bitching LOL

well, then you're in luck that dash plug has a lot of functions, it does get ignition power in order to kick on the 2 blue relays which one sends power to your ignition coil and one sends power to the ecu, it also has the speedometer, tachometer, and coolant temperature signals for the guages (some of those features may not be compatible for your set up however they won't interfere with your car running and driving), it also needs start signal, it also powers your idle air control valve, o2 sensor, etc etc. if certain wires from that plug haven't been wired into your vehicle then your motor definately won't start hehehe. the good thing is there's a sticky up there it says CHRIS RUMMEL'S WIRING RB25DET or something like that towards the top of this page, and chris has pictures and explanations of how to wire in that "dash plug." it's for a Z BUT, it's basically the exact same thing, the only difference is he's doing it on a Z ignition switch, and you'll be doing it on your cefiro ignition switch. you may have to use longer wires in order to tuck the ecu away etc but the whole concept is the same. familiarize yourself with your ignition switch and what wire does what, then follow his instructions and you should be ready to roll. keep us posted

i've never seen a cefiro wiring harness so i'm not sure what you mean by the "box", off of the main engine harness there should be the big blue ecu plug and the small white plug, which i call the "dash plug". on that dash plug is where the grey/red stripe wire should be. unless you wanna fry your ecu please don't add power or ground to random wires LOL. could you take a picture of the "box" or connector that goes to the "box" so i can be on the same page as you, thx i love diagnostics, you learn so much

i just fixed the same problem on an sr20 car the other day. the coils were firing, fuel was going to the rail, it was also a used to be automatic but now a manual, so bridging the park/neutral safety switch was necessary to complete the signal to the starter solenoid. everything else worked, it would turn over but not start. the injectors were getting power but they were getting no noid (ground) signal from the ecu, therefore they would not pulse. the problem was the feller who did the guy's wiring didn't wire in the dash plug correctly, hell he actually wired it in to different plug altogether LOL. with that done, aside from the guages wouldn't have worked and ac request also, the problem with that - that was not allowing the car to start- is the START SIGNAL WIRE, on the sr20 it is orange, i beleive on my r33 skyline rb25det it was grey with a red stripe. good luck i can't say whether you do or don't have a bad ecu without being there to diagnose your car, but i would start by making sure the grey/red stripe wire is getting it's signal first. and then again even before you condemn the ecu, look into the problem being in aftermarket security systems and go from there. David

11.2 , what turbo's on the vg30?

early 90's was the import super car battle, toyota with it's twin turbo supra, mazda with the twin turbo rx-7, and nissan with the twin turbo 300zx, i'm not knocking vg30dett's at all but the rb26 is the twin turbo 300zx's should have gotten =] , plus it's a hell of a lot easier to change valve cover gaskets on ROFL, nice job dude.

ya i saw your car spank that TT hennessey viper. i've been doing a lot of research and i like deisal oils or other cl-4's because of the anti-wear additives they have in them. comp-cams swears by rotella T 15-40 and asking around even more it makes sense to run thicker oil. quaker state also offers "racing oil" which i believe one is a 15-50 and i know mobil 1 has 15-50. basically you're looking for an oil with a lot of zddp which is zinc diaphosphate sumruther which is a good anti-wear additive. the downside of deisal oil is it causes premature catalytic converter failure and it voids factory warrantys....but on 70's Z's...those are both moot points. i will be running deisal oil.