Z U L8R

thank you sir. my strong point is wiring and diagnostics, i'm just now getting informed on the aspect of tuning so forgive my noobness, thx man Dave =]

cool. i was looking through some of my tunes, and i can't find any knock data at all lol. i don't think the fc-edit logs it, at least i can't find it. the only thing i see is knock warning, and once you set the knock warning, that's it. there's no graph or table or chart or correction other than setting the warning..... =[ i think the .48 or .XX that i was mentioning was maf voltage cause it goes up to 5volts etc...and it's under an a/f table i believe....grrrr i need aem so i can log my nox =[ , cause if this fc-edit does log it, i can't find the chart/map/graph =/ Dave

my buddy who's done a lot of rb25 tuning using aem ems is pretty strongly opinionated about not going passed 3 volts on the knock sensor. well i'm running power fc + commander on my rb25, and i'm borrowing a friend's fcedit so i can log my data on his labtop to save time on the dyno. when i look at the data for knock it's like .48 or .36 or something like that. i can't find any information or formula to get a basis for what the "scale" is so i could convert this .XX information into ok .48 means it's 2.2 volts on the knock sensor so we're good etc etc. so far everyone says it's all subjective, no motor's the same, and there's not really any scale or formula to convert this knock data into any specific knock sensor voltage amount. the only helpful advice i was given is from an rx7 tuner who uses this and said that the rotary's usually are 0-1.25. he said basically you see what numbers you're getting when you know you're safe, then turn it up just a little and see what .XX you're getting when you still know you're safe. then basically if you see the numbers jump from lets say like .48 and in the next block it's .99 , then you know something's going on. i figured i'd put it out there and see if anyone could shed some more light on this. thx in advance, Dave =] PS. We got the new turbo on. it's a 4082 .72 a/r compressor housing , a schwizcher (sp?) center cartridge, the exhaust housing is a divided 1.0 a/r t3 frame/flange with an S cover or wheel or whatever it is lol. we're hoping for 480-520 @ 18-21 psi on 93 octane pump gas. and i got some BFG drag radials 255/50/16's from summit on sunday $342 for the pair =]

WEWT! GJ man =] ain't nothin wrong with that! gotta work on that 60' a little (total hipocrit my best is 1.99) best advice i got was slip the clutch a little (almost impossible on my clutch) so you don't brake loose in the first 10 feet and don't be so hard on first gear or you'll go nowhere. soon as first gear hits boost the tires are lit up and it's bouncin off rev limiter. as soon as i feathered the gas in first a little i was doin much much better. if you can cut it down to a 2.0 or 1.9 60' i think you'll see some 12's for sure. keep it up man! Dave =]

np man =]

if you're running an rb20 maf then you should be hotwire 4 in 4 out then 1 to 1. and you should be able to drive to the tuner just fine. if you're running z32 maf then it's 2 in 4 out. before you adjust the maf though take it off -50% Dave

haha, i love vids =] +1 for pwning the honda guy, sounds great man Dave =]

ROFL "cocaine is a helluva drug"

i haven't heard any problems out of the stock rods. i got duped into getting the n1 water pump rofl. so far no problems tho. i went new oe oil pump when i put this motor together. my redline's set to 7400, i hit it from time to time, but i try to shift at 7. stock rod bolts. aftermarket rods usually have arp studs in em. stock main bolts are fine too. i dunno the limits but i have peace of mind with my set up till i reach 550.....then i'm crossing my fingers lol.....i don't know what i'm gonna do if i break this r200 >_

i get no oil out of my valve cover...and have never gotten any oil out of any of my rb25's until my motor popped.....if you're getting a lot of blow by....you might wanna check your tune and amount of boost you're running....if you're already getting it, the dmg is done, just make sure you don't make it worse....my .02 i found out why that motor popped also. the profec b wants you to T off the fuel pressure regulator hose. well my T cracked, thus my boost controller wasn't getting the proper pressure causing it to up the boost, and my fuel pressure regulator wasn't getting enough boost to raise the fuel pressure...therefore UBER LEAN KABLOOEY ....now i use a metal vacuum T on my fpr....that's 4 cents Dave =]

i've been running mine straight atmospheric with no filter for the longest time. then finally i got tired of my eyes burning so i just ran a hose under the car, my pcv valve goes to my intake manifold as it should, then it runs to the other valve cover as it should. the idea behind it is to release out the positive crankcase pressure. when the motor's under vacuum it's sucked through the intake plunum, when you're under boost, it's sucked through the turbo's intake pipe. best idea in theory is to use a catch can then run it to the turbo's intake. but atm i'm just running a hose to the top of the driver side valve cover that dumps the fumes under the car cause i'm tired of my eyes burning from the crankcase fumes =]

i hit 441 with just hg and studs + bolt ons on 100 octane a friend of mine hit 500 with stock head/cams/and stock intake manifold on 35r@19psi. stock cams are good well to 600. but it does help bigger turbo's spool if u match ur cam correctly. stock pistons as jtaylor said should be fine in the high 500's. rb25 is a gangster ass motor for the price =]

my advice.....keep your rb25 tranny lol

probably just the cleaning solution the place you got your motor from used to clean it off with. shouldn't be a problem

maxima stroked deisel crank for teh win =] we toyed with the idea of a 26 tranny tonight, shame it's not a 6 speed and it weighs 232354325324324 lb's. instead of cutting up the front bellhousings, swapping, then welding, i'm gonna snatch the front off this 26 tranny and be done with it. should be running this weekend. right now i'm tooling around in a friend's sr20'd 240sx. 9 psi is such a tease bah

the guy who lent me the hx35 says hx35 is waaaaaaay better than the hy35

thx man @ jtaylor

since when have i ever listened to sound advice rofl thx dave we'll see what kind of headaches it gives my tuner. worst case i'll keep it for spare guts and get that 25 tranny for 650. then if i ever break that i'll have the z32 rear half and guts and the front off the 25. we'll see, that extra 650's stealing out of my 35r fund though....so i'm gonna try to push this z32 fabrimacation to it's stopping point. i heard that wazimba guy down there's got a sexy turbo at his house for me wazimba: wanna go half on the 2 rb20 trannies + rear subframe assembly for 750??

aiight, we're going with the z32, i picked it up today for $300. he's gonna make an adapter or just cut and weld the bolt patterns and swap em. gotta love a good welder +1 however i called up a couple buddies and shopped around a little bit and came across 2 good rb20 trannies, and the complete rear subframe out of a 180sx (s13), 5 finger viscous lsd with the cv's, complete assembly all for $750 also came across a complete Ford 9 inch rear end assembly from drum to drum for $350 it's got me thinkin lol

ya, the small nissan tranny's out of the question. if i went z32 back half i'd need the shift linkage and all that. i know where an rb25 tranny is for $650...i can pick it up tomorrow, so i just may *shrug you guys think the z31 tranny can handle 600rwhp?

lol

ok i'm retarded, i just took another look at the rb20 front half and i don't see any way in hell this is gonna work..... perhaps we'll source a z31 tranny and make an adapter.... i'm in a crunch for time is why i'm attempting to pioneer these unbeaten paths...

I'm gonna see if we can make this work. If you know for a fact it doesn't, then chime in wif da quickness. cause in 3 hours i'm getting this $300 z32 tranny coming....lol Dave =]

this is my second time peaking in your thread since you first started it...... you have more money in your crankcase ventilation hoses than i do in my whole car hahahaa jk jk. man oh man. you have the best job in the world. i can definately see WHY you're known for making bad ass rb's in NZ. even the heat wrap looks like you measured every wrap with a ruler. seriously that is one bad ass Z man. i wanna see some vids of american cars getting spanked on the street LOL. Congratulations on a job well done =] Dave =]

lol hang out in my thread lol. gt30r is newer technology, and hits 20psi around 4k on rb25 so my friend with 560rwhp@24psi 35r rb25 says. but go to my thread, and you can learn from my "mistakes" (wasted $$$$) ,cause i'm in that process as we speak. , Dave =]