Z U L8R

i run deutche werks 550cc side feds in mine

white/black = constant 12volts black/red and white/purple = 12v ignition power on the rb20 harness where there's 2 green relays. only use 1 relay, leave the ignition coil relay out. i just finished an rb20 into 240z this weekend. when both relays were plugged in the safc and ecu would not turn off, and if you put the white/black wire on 12v ignition power instead of constant the car runs rough as if the coils are not getting enough power. the only difference with this particular 240z and your 280z may be that his 240z, i already have the wasted spark set up on it, which basically eliminates the coil on plugs and uses a 87 buick grand national 3.8 coil pack /w 6 spark plug wires. on the underside of the coil pack is 2 rows of 3 posts. one row is 12volt ignition power on all 3 tabs which gets it's power via the rb20's engine harness from the 3 pin grey oval plug that's right next to the ignitor plug. that thick white wire feeds the ignition 12v to the 3 tabs. that thick white wire is also the wire you clip msd part # 8918 tach signal pick up to, in order to use an autometer tach. then for the other 3 posts you use the coil pack's harness that plugs into the ignitor. then run your ignitor's 6 wires to the other row of 3 tabs on the underbelly of the grand national coil pack, with the ignitor's ground signal for cylinder's 1 & 6, on one tab, 2 & 5, on another, 3 & 4 on the last tab. in any case sheesh! your tps should be 3 wires, one ground, one 12volt, and one rheastat'd 0-? volts. what's the car doing or not doing that it should be? i'm trying to figure out why are you testing voltage in your tps in the first place?

ur car looks good =] gj, always a good thing to make decent power safely and KNOW your car's got more cohones in it =]

thanks! =] i was running 22 psi with the fuel light glowing in my face lol, i had just enough 100octane to make it to the track. chad works for competition clutch, so whatever he's got i'm sure that's the brand he's using. he's on a gtk500 50 trim dbb he said his best time thus far is 12.5 that last run you can hear spinning all through first. i appreciate you guys and all the help i've gotten from this forum! +111 to everybody. i'll be getting another tune very soon cause my friend's letting me borrow his datalogit software for the powerfc so i'll be able to log my nox instead of pull after pull watching the nox meter and adding timing little by little. with a little more practice i'm hoping for low 11's, and depending on any gains with the datalogged tune, my lifetime goal of 10.9999999999999 or less rofl take care guys, Dave

thanks guys =] i love vids cause when the time comes that the car's down, i can watch em and it's motivation to work on it. first run chad misshifted into 4th, that was his 13.2 my 12.3 second run his shift knob came off into 4th ROFL he was pissed. srt4's shift knobs just slide on they're not threaded on like nissans. i bet he's gonna jb weld that thing on this week LOL!!

here's the first pass of my life. Chad's a friend of mine (400+hp srt4 neon on DR's), my reaction time on that was .092 !!! he red lighted hahahaha (aka went too early) here's my third pass, the track guy yelled at me for not burning out in the right place so i was a little shook up, this is verse the TRUCK OF OWNAGE!!! i just like the way the engine sounds in this one. to me, it felt like i got a better launch that time but the time slip says otherwise. here's my last pass, i was sleeping at the light, i was trying to get ready, put it in first, get the ebrake up, then i look up at the lights and it's already counting down and on the second yellow.....yellow........GREEN! AAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!! 11.92 @ 125 MPH my 60 foot was 2.1 HAHAHA GAAAHBIJ!! 1/8 mile was 7.9 i need more practice but definately has more potential with better tires. Was running BFG T/A's @ 10 psi 245/60/14's lol My first time at the drag strip. Not bad for Street

27 1/2 tip to tip, core is 24" 11.5" tall , 3" thick

correct. my timing belt started squeeling on the first motor. it had a GReddy. i caught it in time and replaced it with a brand new Pit Work timing belt, along with a brand new tensioner pulley which is the same as a z31. the idler pulley i got from my friend at Lethal injection (who i do wiring and diagnostics for on the side), brand new nissan part. I didn't really see any seizing pulley's or obvious problems so i changed the belt.....day and a half later going 35mph down holcomb bridge i hear pop, grrrrrrraaaaaaack, smoke, no power...roll into the krystals right by 400. pop the hood there's belt shavings all over the timing cover etc. got a new motor from Best Japanese out of New Jersey (even though they have one here in GA) off of ebay for $1115 shipped, motor only however it did come with a wiring harness that i can easily repair the 2-3 wires that are jacked up from transport. soon as i got the new motor i put in a 1.2mm commetic mls headgasket and arp studs. the studs i re-used out of the old motor, torqued it down to 78-80ft lbs with my digi snap-on tech wrench upon dissassembly of the old motor the crank will go forward and backward about a quarter inch ie thrust bearing is crap. that OS Geiken super single pressure plate is a beast, and that's probably what caused the crankwalk. i dunno without a shadow of a doubt whether that alone was the culprit to my timing belt breaking but whatever. "if it's broke, it was meant to be upgraded" i got a retune with the new motor and both dyno's were the same give or take 2-5 horse. then i came back with race gas and putting 2 degrees more timing across the map /w the power fc on the 100 octane didn't really add anything so i put the timing back to what it was and turned the boost up 2 lb's while monitering my nox and 20 psi compared to 22 psi at 3700rpm it makes 260 tq, on 22 psi it's making 350 ft lb's @ 3700 rpm lol driving the difference feels great, i've probably put $20 of pump in it in the last 2 weeks and $200 worth of 100octane unleaded lol. this saturday i'm hoping my friend kirby (rich ass old man, cool as a fan) comes up so i can run his custom Ford GT roadster. he just had the guy's chop the top on it it's sexy. he's making 610rwhp with the blower on it now, he tried to put the bigger blower on it but it wouldn't clear the new re-enforcements from removing the top.

just got off the phone with Apexi for all you guys upgrading your intake manifolds or just don't want as much heat soak, you can get a phenolic intake manifold gasket, from some of the distributors around your town. Keeps the intake manifold from getting so much heat transferred from the head thus lowering intake air temps allowing colder/denser air to be ingested into your engine = MORE POWWAAA!!! i'm in Georgia so there's 2 places that can get it for me, Nopi, or Balanced Performance Phenolic intake gasket = part # G6023 (msrp $90) i also asked for the data logit software for my rb25 power fc, so i can log my nox or set up street maps and race gas maps etc Datalogit software for rb25 power fc = part # 415-X910 (msrp $295) goodluck!! =]

on the fuel tanks for the non 280z's....the return hose is pinhole size since the factory motors are/were carb'd. when doing a friend's 240z we capped the original return bung and ran the return hose from the fpr/rail to one of the "vent" bungs on top of the fuel tank. any reason whatsoever 240_skyline would have a problem doing the same? my friend hasn't had a problem with that. i mention this because, a lot of people swear you have to get a 280 fuel tank, and this was a viable/easy overcame hurdle.

=] those are good pics that was my first motor before the timing belt broke and bent 234,234,426,564,234 valves, my pressure plate's too stiff also, as there's a lot of play in that crank ie thrust bearing aka "crank walk." the new motor i didn't paint the valve covers. old motor's slowly getting a full build. gotta finish my eclipse gsx first so i can have more funds to play with.

GReddy Timing Belt > Pitwork/Nissan oe

http://www.summitracing.com

hey i'm running a 4.11 out of a 200sx, i haven't been to the track yet but just curious as to your power for you to run that 11.4, so i can get a ball park for myself. thx by the way

the tach signal pickup has 3 wires, mine was red,black, green, red = 12v ignition power, black = ground, green = tach signal which goes to the tach (tach's signal wire on the tach)

that looks very similar, i'm sure it's the same thing as msd's part. i can't take a pic at the moment cause i don't have a digi cam, but you clip it onto the thick white wire that feeds the 12volts to your coil packs. the thick white wire is on a small 2 grey plug in the same harness as your coil packs, it should be right next to your ignitor. you can do it on either side of the grey plug it's all the same. once you clip it on the 12volt power supply wire to the coils, you run the green wire to your tach's signal wire, then the other two wires are just like your guage, one is 12v ignition power, the other is ground, and voila =]

nice car man!

this was thursday night. not sure exactly how much over 400 he was but you know guys in american cars always sandbag . he had no passenger, i had a cameraman. all footage is computer generated and done on a giant treadmill in mexico. btw he called me out at the meet up spot so..... 50ish-120 , you see he kinda leaves early but whatever lol enjoy Dave

♥♥♥♥......you know your electronics LOL, breakin it down like a mofo. i love theory and operation. +1

i don't know if i'm being to analytical (sp?) but relatively speaking (that means if we lived in a vacuum LOL) that maf would restrict a little flow to the turbo's ingestion if it were in front of the turbo, where as after the turbo it's no problem for that sucker to blow air passed it. as far as turbulence i can't see it being anymore turbulent than all the fins/passages in your intercooler before the boost actually gets to your throttle body. just my .02 =P i can't see your pics jerryb, my flash player is ole school. streeteg if you still need pics let me know or whatever. i want to reiterate that 1. if you're going to go blow through, you should have some form of engine management, safc, power fc, aem ems, etc. because compressed air is hotter so the maf's element will be getting a different reading, which will change your a/f ratios. for my car after moving the maf my a/f map got richer, someone elses car may get leaner, so to be on the safe side, get eng mngmnt. 2. cut the flange off the maf so there's still a little bit of a lip, that way your intercooler coupler won't slide off as easily & don't make the clamp too too uber friggin tight cause it's only plastic, you don't wanna crack it. 3. to be safe i'd give the maf some space from your throttle body & bov, couple inches or so, i'll just say at least 6 from the tb and 8 or more from the bov dave

lol. yeah, on all my rb20's inbetween first and second getting on it, there'd always be a slight hesitation, blow through rocks!

gotcha

i tried the tach adapter ($75) and could never get it to work my tach, i connected the autometer tach's signal wire to the tach wire off the ecu...don't do that it'll pop the resistor in the ecu in 2 seconds. so if you're running safc2 and can't get tach signal off of the tach wire ,you can put an safc2 on either of the 120degree cam angle sensor wires that go to the ecu and it'll read rpm no problem, you can also hook up your autometer tach to the same wire and it'll read ok, BUT at high rpms the signals overlap and your tach'll read all goofy. so here's the solution $30 msd part #8918 , it's about the size of your thumb from tip to knuckle, way smaller than the tach adaptor, it's half the price, and it works perfectly. clip that on the white wire that powers your ignition coils, give it the ignition power, the ground, and connect the green signal wire to your signal wire for your tach, and voila.

a little off topic, i got my autometer tach working perfectly MSD part # 8918 = $30 Tach signal pick up, clip it to the thick white ignition coil power wire. upon my tach not reading fubar at high rpm's off the 120 degree cam signal wire, tach working accurately i get 7300 with ease in every gear hot or cold. i could never get the $75 tach adapter to work, this other pickup= half price and works

lookin good lookin good. but for GOD SAKES lower the frickin car!!