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nice. 25psi on a 35r should be in the 560rwhp ball park, give or take depending on tune. that's a friend of mine's set up on an aem ems. i'd like to sell my power fc and get an aem myself. all my internals are stock cept a commetic 1.2mm and arp head studs. i don't really want to take my t belt off again to put my n1 water pump on but as it gets hotter and hotter outside i might have to. my friend with the 35r uses his in an s13 drift car he's actually thinking of going gt30/71 instead. i'm not sure what mm was in my other rb25 before the t belt broke but compression across the board was 135psi. my new one stock was 170ish, first thing i did was tear it down and put the 1.2mm in there so now it's 145ish, which makes me think the first one had maybe a 1.4mm if i was you i'd prolly go .020 first, just in case, so if you need it machined again then you can go .040, instead of .040 off the rip, then if it breaks you need a whole new block or a resleave. anywho goodluck with it, sounds like you're definately on the right path. take care Dave

thank you =] ONLY USE GREDDY TIMING BELT!! and don't overtighten the belt or it'll end up with 19 bent valves like my other rb25 lol. do an n1 water pump too, $239 at top hat performance.

everyone i met could never get the tach adapter to work their tach. i got part from summit it's an msd tach translator doohicky part #8918. just tell them you're trying to get your autometer tach working for your deisel truck and you want the thing that taps on your positive injector wire, it's like $30, and you just tap that onto the little two wire plug that's by the ignitor, tap it on the white wire. my tach finally works perfectly. if you wire in an autometer tach and tap the ecm's tach signal you'll pop the resistor in the ecu. you can tap an safc2 on the 120 degree signal wire, and your tach as well, but at high rpm the signal's start overlapping and the tach doesn't read right, the safc will work though off the 120 degree. anyways just thought i'd mention it, since the tach adaptor's like $75 and the other thing's so much cheaper and works

it's just the 3 10mm bolts that hold it into the cam, then just gently pry around the thing till it pops off in your hand. first remove cas, then you can remove upper cover.

cool. yeah when we first did it it was running rich as hell too. i have a power fc, after he fixed the air fuels, no problems whatsoever. thx for the reply Dave

ps. my sig pic,that was before converting it to blow through obviously

basically every turbo nissan motor i've ever had running an atmospheric bov, i've had to set the base idle to 1000-1100 so it'd stay running after letting off. on my rb25 now my maf is about a foot in front of my throttle body and my bov is about 8 inches before my maf right next to the intercooler. i have absolutely no more idle problems, i can hit full boost and go straight in neutral and my idle drops right to 850rpm everytime. plus if you've got 6 feet of pipe with the maf on one end and the motor on the other, then throw in 2 variables that mess with the flow aka turbo and bov, as opposed to sensing the air coming into the manifold a couple inches from the manifold...i'd assume the latter would be more precise, wouldn't you? the only cons i've heard is that, "nissan maf's are plastic and were designed to have air sucked through them (implode), not have 22 pounds of boost forced into em, you'll pop the frickin top off that thing soon" .....so far no probs with the z32 maf... the only other thing i can think of is joe shmoe with a stock rb, nothing to tune with at all, no safc, deciding to go blow through instead of where it is stock because inbetween 1st and 2nd getting on it there's a slight hesitation, and after he blows off the car wants to die and he's tired of feathering the gas pedal. i think joe'll run into problems with how the maf actually reads because sucked air going passed the elements would be colder than compressed air being forced through the maf's elements, thus cause it to run weird, or not as good with the stock map that's in the stock ecu. therefore he should get at least an safc2 so he can make the maf corrections. just my 2 cents, it makes a lot more sense to me to go blow through, any other opinions? will i blow the top on mine in the near future?

ahhhh, yeah that makes sense. so the problem is theres 360 little holes with the stock trigger wheel, and the remedy is the new one with xxx holes?

i'm running power fc. before i would only get 6800 redline, i got the base timing right on the money 15 and it'd go 73-7400 np right now. the only thing is second gear seems like it only gets 6900 SOMETIMES, usually when the motor has just warmed up to operating temp, then the rest of the gears clears 7 no problems. do you think i'm having a cas issue?

i'm not sure but i'd imagine 300 rwhp easily.

ya i saw his reverse lights come on i was like ooooooo LOL. my set up's pretty simple 550 deutch werks side fed GReddy intake manifold Q45 Thr Body XS Power top mount exhaust manifold (had to notch a pie out of it to turn the flange down a little so i could fit the.... GT30/71R dual bb Z32 maf stock computer + safc2 buick grand national coil pack + msd 8.5 mm wires ngk 3330's BCPR7ES @ .028 gap Tial 38mm external w/gate with a 9-13lb spring i got through summit for like $25 Greddy Profec B (the ole school joint =] ) intercooler's an ebay 27 1/2" from end to end, core is like 24 or 25" by 11.5" tall by 3" thick Blitz Bov OS Geiken Super Single unsprung clutch/flywheel. the 3 puck discdidn't have much meat left so i got the clutch guy to make me a 6 puck disc and resurface everything. I'm running the RB20 tranny, so my speedo works + if i ever go 26 i have a spare 25 tranny, plus i used the stock driveshaft and modified the stock trans mount so it'd all work. I got my buddy to modify the L28 metal engine mount brackets. Toyota 4x4 brakes in the front, rears are still drum >_< ooOOOOoo 85-86 200sx r200 rear end which is a 4.11 open diff custom 3" exhaust with waste gate recirced. as far as internals, it's all stock, just a thicker metal head gasket, and arp head studs that's basically my set up. i'd like to get a griffin or ron davis radiator but, i'll probably start with an N1 water pump and see how that goes. i'll do that when i do cams more than likely.

i just sold one of my 240sx's for $3500 today, so i'm definately searching for stand alone. apexi power fc is hard to find but i may be in luck if my friend comes through, aem ems is expensive as hell, ♥♥♥♥ even haltech is cheaper than aem. i was thinking definately standalone is priority so i can adjust timing and get rid of vvt, then like stage 1 cams (nothing i have to modify the head to do) and or 150 shot of the laughy gas LOL. really another 100hp'd be plenty to make those z06's my dirty sluts muwhahahhaa *evil laugh. if i wasn't so impatient i'd put a motor in the eclipse gsx, sell that, then have more money to make me money, but i'm an impulsive ass so i'll more than likely be doing wheelies next to bryan the weather's so nice right now =]

LOL@bryan aiight =] . i finally ran someone i know on an 06' 600rr. i used to ride with him before i sold my 01 Ninja ZX7R. since I did better vs the Z06's when i started in second I'd like to run him from 2nd instead of 3rd. but from a 3rd pull he's the same as the 474hp Z06, basically even till the end, then he pulls by just a hair. which humbled me cause he's the first 600 that's gotten me, so i will admit 90% of bikes is the rider. i'm still looking for a stock Z06 guy so i can hurt his feelings HAHAHA my opinion those cars honestly are probably the all around best production car made at this time.

400rwhp RB25'd 280z vs 07 c6 Z06 /w intake/headers/exhaust + tune = 501 rwhp = 1 out of 6 >_< once again this is all computer generated & simulated on a giant treadmill in mexico giving the viewers the ILLUSION of speed. Sorry it's so hard to see, i wish the camera had night vision, bear with us lol. first run 45-120 he grinds third, finally gets it in, and still walks like a badass lol second run 45-120 he tries starting in first gear, he said he got a lil squirly, my "shining star" run and win i comment on my brakes. third run 60-120 i try starting in third instead of second cause he was saying 45 is too slow, he pwns me, and i tell him me starting in third = bad idea, lol , *my plea for mercy HAHAHA! the other 3 runs vs him = Him by 2 car lengths consistently. with only 26hp less, this one's more "even." this vid is vs the other C6 Z06 with just intake/exhaust +tune 474 rwhp, basically it's even till right at the end he pulls me by about a fender/half car enjoy run 1 run 2 i let off at 120, he goes into 4th and you see how fast those mofos are run 3 word of caution : DON'T RUN c6 z06's passed 120 lol me with the 4.11 open diff, 45-120 = 2nd,3rd, and 4th redline z06 45-120 = 1st or 2nd (preference) to 3rd redline =120 GG@1 shift so while i'm going into my "overdrive gear" they're only starting 4th gear. that's why i say passed 120 is not a good idea lol. the second guy said before the mods he put down 454 rwhp cold, but at operating temp was 434 rwhp consistently/realistically. my conclusion is.... 1. C6 Z06's are frickin sick 2. 26hp makes a big difference 3. I should be able to whoop a bone stock C6 Z06 4. Glad all this is simulated on a treadmill in mexico

Woot!! fyi, bpu/tuned C6 Z06 = fast car lol

K Lol =]

this was simulated on a huuuge treadmill using robot drivers. the first run the Z started a car behind waiting for the mustang to get on it to give the illision of the Z accelerating also. the camera starts right as the run starts. on run2 the Z started 1/2 a car behind and again waited for the mustang to go before going as well. run 2 is a little easier to see when the mustang begins as you hear KKKKKKkkkkkkhHHHHhhHHHhhhhh! lol this was the night the Z made 391hp@17psi, i cranked it up to 17.8psi so it'd break 400 on hi boost, low boost is 13psi 337hp, if you check out my pics at my myspace you'll see the dip in the map right around 5-5200 rpm. that's where the vvt kicks off. the goal is to get a way smoother power band by eliminating the vvt all together and mimicking/improving how it alters timing by adding/pulling timing when i get standalone. at the dyno he still had me in there when i had my rb20 in it, he forgot to update that. enjoy vids in signature, pics of car/dyno at the myspace link in sig.

use either of the two 120 degree signal wires, i can't remember if it's green or white but either 120 will work.

looking to buy an Apexi Power FC + Commander/datalogit for my Series 1 R33 RB25DET. please contact me if you have one for sale, thanks =]

mine's a 78 280z but you won't like the price lol

saturday you should go to atlanta motor speedway for drift atlanta it's from 10-10, everybody's going...."everybody's doin it" peer pressure lol ur intake manifold looks pretty sexy, and i really like those bov's design, like 2 out of 6 of the ports those have are bigger than the solo port on like a type s or my blitz for that matter. if you turn into the megasquirt guru, i'll buy one too

the ebay turbo's an xspower joint t3/t04e 57 a/r compr. 63 a/r exhaust, oil bearing the gt30/71r is 60 a/r compressor, and i'm not sure but i wanna say 63 a/r exhaust, dual ball bearing i can run 18 psi safely and break 400, but my profec b is turned all the way up and it'll only get 12psi on low (312hp) and 17psi on high, cause i'm running an 8lb spring in my tial 38mm external w/gate. if i put a 10-12lb spring i shouldn't have a problem. really though if i had more than an safc2 for tunability, changing nothing, should be 420-430 with torque a little under the hp numbers, but i can't add/pull timing unless i get better eng management. if anyone's selling an apexi power fc for rb25, lemme know so i can buy it lol. keep us posted on the progress....we're timing you now

nice stuff, i need an apexi power fc for rb25 if you know anyone selling one, safc2 can't add/pull any timing >_<. i know you know peeps lol. later man

gonna be a very nice car. i want to race your bike =]

9lbs is low though, your numbers sounda bout right. good job man, keep us posted