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I wanna c your car on the street take off next to someone filming it from 60mph lol good stuff man, shoot some more vids when u get to the track again too. Dave

all the guys i know around here that ran shockproof killed there trannies within 3 months. that's why when i was searching for the lubrication solution i was asking around and seeing what ppl had the best luck with, so i ended up going with a 75w-140 synthetic. i hear what you're saying mrfancy, i'm pretty sure when i looked up z32 and 240sx manual tranny fluid type spec in alldata, i'm pretty sure it said to use a gl4 OR gl5, i can check tomorrow to be sure. not trying to start a huge debate, it's all in what has been tested, what works and what doesn't. so from my own experience i'll forever use 75w-140 in any nissan manual trans. that's just me. no hard feelings =] EDITED: hey i just checked alldata for a 93 240sx and 300zx and it says GL-4, but it also says "75w-90 recommended for ambient temperatures below 104 degrees F" and it gives a chart for temperatures and viscosity's. the chart does go to 75w-140 too. i'm not sure how exactly the ratings for gear lube go, however if it's anything like other tranny fluids, you know dextron 3 supercedes dextron 2, and a system calling for dextron 2 can use dextron 3, brake fluid calls for dot 3, but dot 4 is superior as it can handle more heat. anywho, just going off experience alone, i've never broken a nissan tranny running 75w-140, and i know for a fact you'll feel the difference if you switch to it. now i need to do something about these s-rated tires >_<

you're gonna need to get the bigger yoke welded to the front of your driveshaft so it can slide into the rb25's bigger transmissions tail shaft, your fuel tank return hose is too small so you can either use a 280z gas tank or run your fuel return to one of the fuel breather nipples on the top of the gas tank. you'll need mounts made, and that's about it. make the mounts before you get your driveshaft done, as depending on your mounts and where the engine sits in the car, will dictate how long or short your driveshaft needs to be. then the rest is actually doing the swap and wiring it up correctly. now may be a good time to get an r200 rear end and a mustache bar for a 280z or the http://www.arizonazcar.com mustache bar because the r180 in the 240/260's won't really handle the power as well as the r200 out of a 280z(x) or a z31 300zx. good luck Dave =]

if you run 75w-90 or 80s-90 which it calls for and you're hard on it, you're gonna mess up your tranny. FROM MY EXPERIENCE on a shitty sr20 @ 14psi = 240rwhp/260rwtq, i went through 3 sr trannys . twice 5th gear synchro, and one second gear tooth broke. first tranny i used what it called for. second tranny i used redline mt 90, third one i said maybe it was just no good from the gate so i used mt 90 again. then finally i went with 75w-140 synthetic, i don't think it was mobil 1 i think it was motorcraft and never had a problem again. i just finished a ka in an s14, i went cheap with gl-4 75w-90 and if you try to shift fast it's notchy, so i said ftw i put in mobil 1 75w-140, perfect shifts. in my rb25 making the power it's making, i've been running the same rb20 tranny with 75w-140 mobil 1, still no problems, all synchros are perfect, i beat the hell out of my car (that's why i built it), and i'm sure the daul fingered OS Geiken super single is not very nice to my itty bitty rb20 tranny, but still......no issues. the absolute ONLY thing i can say about 75w-140 is, in the winter for about the first 3-4 miles (when my tranny's cold) it's a little notchy getting it in gear. once it gets warmed up, perfect, no problems. that's it. if you're running 75 or 80w-90 in your tranny right now, and there's no problems with your tranny right now, i'd bet you'd feel an IMMEDIATE improvement in your shifting if you put in 75w-140 synthetic gear oil. just my .02 take it ez, Dave

u beat my trying my damdest 2.1 60' @ 22psi on street tires

you can have multiple tunes if you get the power fc pro i think is the name of the add on, where you can hook up a labtop to it and save your tunes in files then just upload whatever tune you want when you want it, it's also needed for datalogging which saves you a crap load of money on the dyno. with just the power fc commander he can tune my car, but it's pull after pull after pull adjusting 1 or 2 cells at a time. with the datalogger he can adjust 10 cells at a time or more.

thanks. lol read that old post.....i didn't search, my bad fellas my bad. >_< pm me details on your 88 turbo 3.7 lsd please sir =] i am interested

no i'm still using the 30 year old original vacuum brake booster 1 way check valve >_< it's part of the car basically. if you look at your brake booster, and follow that hose towards the hood latch. right there is where the check valve is, kind of secured to the firewall, then the other end of the hose runs to the top bung on your greddy manifold. if you look at the picture in my sig, it's on the firewall right behind where my o2 sensor sticks out of the top of my downpipe. that's where it's located.

i'm running rb20 transmission... 75W-140 SYNTHETIC MOBIL 1 FTW!!

apexi power fc for rb25 is discontinued but you can still get them...if you're patient you can find one reasonably priced. i believe the emanage is a piggy back...at least the one my friend got for his bmw was...and he had to wire a ton of crap, my power fc is just an ecu i plug in with the 10mm bolt on the wiring harness. if i could do it all over again i'd bite the bullet and get the aem ems though since i could have more than one tune, go map sensor, 2 step launch control, DATA LOG!!! etc. the power fc you can data log but then you gotta buy all the add on crap, which in the end you might as well have just got the aem...just my .02 i'm running deutche werk 550's side fed which should be fine for 550ish hp, not that my turbo's gonna make that much but in any case, i'm getting tuned tomorrow since i just put the new block in with wiseco pistons 20 over and acl bearings so maybe we can go passed 22 psi it made 441/381 at 22psi when i used my friends datalogit before i popped my stock pistons so i dunno. if you want like 700hp than ya i'd go bigger than 550's. i did make 400rwhp/330tq on a $200 safc....which since stock they're 370cc, you can go to 555 tops and run/tune it all with an safc. granted my power band with the power fc kicks thae safc's ass since he can adjust timing as well as a/f ratio's but it's a cost effective alternative. good luck bro =] Dave

good point @ braap

what does everyone think about the Phantom grip......i can't find a 3.7 lsd http://www.phantomgrip.com/

i'm scurred too@ j soileau.... that's y i haven't tried on slicks >_< but ♥♥♥♥, boozted u making good power so something's bound to go homie LOL

exactly =] it's got a nipple on each end and sits on the driver's side of the hood latch if memory serves. kinda glad i mentioned that check valve now lol

not too shabby, good fun brotha!!

cool cool, ya that's what i meant by where to put the coolant sender/sensor. the coolant temp sensor (ecu) should have a crush washer that seals it, the sender seals by the threads, recommend thread tape for that. please jesus tuck your pcv hose hahaha, and the other big hose that comes out of the bung on the top looks like it's going in that direction but just making sure, that's what's gonna supply vacuum to your brake booster, make sure your one way check valve is good, it keeps boost from going to the booster, and only lets vacuum through. if you don't have a one way check valve in there you're gonna boost your brake fluid out of your master cylinder in a mile or two and you won't have brakes once the fluid in the resivoir is empty. looks good bro, take it easy =] Dave

yes i had to extend my fuel lines. when you get fuel line make sure you tell them you want FUEL INJECTION hose, it's more expensive but it'll safely handle the higher pressure of a fuel injected system (especially a walboro) when they sell fuel line it's typically meant for carbeurated cars (low fuel pressure like 4-10psi). now i've never busted a fuel hose from the regular cheap fuel hose but it's kind of something you don't wanna have happen to you for a couple extra bucks. i don't know what turbo set up you have, but the stock rb turbo has a coolant hose on each side of the turbo, the top of the turbo is the oil feed, the bottom is the oil drain. (off memory and could be vice versa) but i believe the hard coolant pipe towards the exterior of the turbo ends up going to a banjo bolt and into the block, and on the interior (inbetween the turbo and the block) is the hard line that runs behind the head and ends up going to that hose we're talking about. for a time i just capped it off and didn't have coolant flowing through my turbo, but when i got my ball bearing turbo, i bought steel braded lines and earl's fittings and made sexy hoses to cool the turbo since bb turbos don't have much oil flowing through them anyways, and i'd like to have SOMETHING to cool that $$$$ puppy off. basically you can cap it off too, or run it to your coolant bleeder it doesn't matter, capped would probably get rid of some more clutter. i ran my fuel lines under the manifold and then they come up and into the rail from underneath. fyi the fuel line that comes off of the fuel pressure regulator is always the return hose (the one that doesn't have the filter on it). your tps, if your rb harness has the 3 pin grey oval plug, and there's no chord like that on your tps, you're gonna have to buy a tps for a q45. that tps you have by your q45 looks like it's for an automatic, as one plug is for throttle position %, and the other is for the kickdown, so when it's at wide open throttle it downshifts the auto tranny so it takes off. i guess get a tps for a Manual q45??? or possibly try to get an early early model one when nissan was using different connectors. my GReddy has 2 holes tapped for the sender and sensor right behind the water neck for the upper radiator hose... do you have any coolant pipes hooked up on each side of your turbo? what turbo are you using? good luck man, lemme know Dave

i don't know enough about rb30's to say, but honestly man it all comes down to your horsepower goal. if there was an rb26 on my left and a 2j n/a on my right i'd take the 26, if there was an rb26 vs a 2jz-gte i'd take the 2j. i'm a die hard nissan guy, but 2jz-gte is just a stronger motor. i'd love to make 600 horse without even having to take my head off. basically man it all comes down to what you wanna do. all motors can make great power and be fun as hell to drive, but what matters is your opinion. my opinion. 2j bottom end can handle more power than rb, and 2j head flows great as well my opinion 2j>rb. Also unlike my first 25, at least if your timing belt breaks with a 2j your valves aren't kissing pistons. you're just dealing with the front crank seal blowing out on hi boost heh, some do it constantly, some don't do it at all. just my 2 cents RB30 wins the uniqueness factor, and you still kept it nissan.

wow i didn't look at ur picture long enough, my bad. the hose coming off your valve cover goes to your pcv valve. plug that into one of the bigger bungs on your intake manifold, if you end up breaking the rubber grommet that the pcv valve sits in in the valve cover, it interchanges with early 90 hondas i believe so that' shouldn't be a big deal. the coolant bleeder line is retarded cap that off. the coolant hose in the back should be the the other coolant hose to your turbo, it should go to a hard metal pipe that runs behind the head...i can't c your turbo set up, but that's why that's there. you need to hook up your fuel pressure regulator's vacuum bung straight to it's own bung on your manifold and try not to T into it unless your boost controller/other crap specifically tells u too. my throttle body is flipped the other way around, i know there's a place on the manifold where you can put a throttle cable bracket but because of my throttle cable's length as well as room in the engine bay i opted to make my own bracket and flip the throttle body so the cable goes on the other side. make sure you cap all the vacuum bungs on your throttle body, like those 2 that stick out East and West what you labeled as "hose coming out of the sensor on the intake manifold" you're gonna need to put a bung on your intercooler piping so it can get air BEFORE the throttle body. basically it goes to your idle air control valve air regulator valve which regulates the air that goes to your idle air control valve, hence the redundant ass name....so when you get your intercooler pipe redone make sure you put a bung for that hose in there so it can get air in front of the throttle body, you can see on the stock L shaped intercooler pipe that big bung right after the stock bov, that's where it went previously. good luck man Dave =]

don't make it harder on yourself. use the q45 tps it plugs right up, the wires are the same. nice top hat valve cover ...cover btw =D good job on going with an actual GReddy and not a freddy i love mine i'm happy i did. you can call mike at top hat and ask but i got mine from balanced performance, Gizmo makes it, it's a phenolic (plasticbasically) intake manifold gasket, it reduces heat transfer from the head to the manifold, helping keep intake air temps a little lower, it's bout $80-90. as far as the coolant lines going through the throttle body, nissan actually did that to lower nox by raising intake air temp thus lowering the air's density in the intake = rich = less power. you don't have to cap em off either, the vacuum bungs you do have to cap off and make sure you put zip ties on every vacuum cap/hose. your idle air control valve 3 bolts never line up, so you may have to wallow out where the bolts go through on the iac itself, i'd definately not try to tap new threads into your pirdy new manifold. i myself just plated off my iac but before i got power fc i wish i hadn't as the idle was fubar at times. the q45 also has a little wax element built into it that will kick open the throttle plate a hair in order to raise the idle when the car is cold, so since you won't have coolant flowing through your tb heating the wax up, you may have to back the little screw out a tiny bit to close your throttle plate a little more so your idle's not too high. other than that just make sure you put teflon thread tape on all your bungs and be careful installing your coolant temp sender and sensor that you don't strip you new mani. use permitex GREY on your little coolant tube that runs underneath it, and while you're in there and already have the coolant all drained, might wanna just stick in a new thermostat as all rb's came factory with brown ass coolant (NOT) haha make sure you cap off that big ass vacuum bung that's kind of inbetween the runners for cylinders 5 & 6 on the underbelly of the plenum. i couldn't see it and i already had everything hooked up that i was gonna hook up so i was like "wtf, why is my idle 2500 rpm, oh duh" it'll save you time to plan out which bung you're gonna use for what before you end up bolting it up to the head. sorry for getting long winded, good luck man =] Dave

so you have a noid light that blinks when the injector gets it's ground pulse from the ecu, good =] well... now use a test light. one wire is 12volts when the key is in the ignition ON and Start position, verify that u have power. next verify that the ecu is giving ground to the injectors as the engine is cranking. that will let you know that the ecu is good/doing it's job/wired correctly. if you have steady ground pulses from the ecu but not any 12volt power then look on the grey injector harness plug, and give the GREY wire 12volt ignition power. now your injectors should fire. if you're not getting ground pulses from the ecu then either it's not wired in correctly, not getting a reference from the cam angle sensor, or it's bad. good luck Dave

*Stock internals (head,cams,pistons,rods,oil pump,bearings,rings, all untouched) *Commetic 1.2 mm head gasket *ARP studs *Z32 Maf (blow through aka right before my throttle body) *Deutche Werks 550cc's side fed injectors *GT30/71R dual ball bearing turbo *GReddy Intake Manifold *Turbo XS Top Mount Exhaust manifold (cut the turbo flange and angled it away from the motor a little so the compressor housing would clear the valve cover) *Ebay 25"x11.5"x3" front mount intercooler *Tial 38mm External wastegate (recirculated back into the down pipe) *GReddy Profec B (ole school) boost controller *Blitz Blow off Valve *Buick Grand National Coil Pack *MSD 8.5mm Wires *NGK #5690's aka BCPR7EIX (they're iridium & come already gapped at .028) *Apexi Power FC + Commander (my friend lets me borrow his labtop and datalogit when i get it tuned, it saves sooooo much dyno time when you can log) *OS Geiken super single 6 puck unsprung clutch & flywheel *3" exhaust all the way back with a flex pipe after the down pipe back to a cheap 3" inlet muffler *L28 motor mounts modified (angled, then rewelded) *RB20DET 5 speed transmission *280z stock driveshaft *L28 transmission mount modified (center section cut,moved,rewelded) *Energy Suspension Complete Bushing Kit *Aftermarket Struts & Springs (just oe replacements =[ ) *86 200sx R200 4.11 open differential *Riken 14 x 7 black mesh chrome lip *215/60/14's futura's in the front LOL, 245/60/14's BFG T/A's in the back

that vid is computer generated, simulated on a giant treadmill in mexico ^^ as everyone knows there's no way to get a skyline motor in a 30 year old datsun. nice ride man

cool. ya basically i've been making the #'s in my sig on stock internals with just a commetic 1.2mm head gasket, arp studs, and the rest are bolt ons. everything internal is all stock. the first motor's timing belt broke and bent 90% of my valves. this last motor blew cause i beat the hell out of it. i got dyno'd for 20psi on pump, but i was also driving it on the street at 20psi and it's rare for me not to get on it. even though my a/f's were safe and my knock voltage didn't get crazy at 20psi on pump gas, on stock internals i shouldn't have gone more than 17-18psi around town. i made 2 1/4 mile passes at the track (it was a pretty hot night also) then got a ton of blow by/oil out of my valve cover vents. i was able to drive it home from the drag strip, before i left i added a quart of oil and didn't get into boost the whole way there. it still starts right up and i can move it around my driveway to make room for my sidework etc but i'm not gonna go cruising with a known 60psi on cylinder #2 lol. the valve bender block is what's at the machine shop now getting the pistons fitted for it etc. he should have me done within the next week or 2. for 5-600hp i shouldn't need rods but i'm doing em anyways cause i don't wanna tear this thing apart anymore. i just want my 10.9999999999999999999999999 pass then i won't see the track again for a long time. thx for ur advice fellas, i'm just gonna get the oe nissan pump, not the n1.

I have my spare block at the machine shop getting some wiseco pistons, acl main and rod bearings, and since i just got another side job crackalackin i got enough money for rods too, i'll probably go eagle or brian crower. i'm only looking for 5-600 reliable horse. but until i go bigger turbo, if i can just make my same #'s reliably, if not a little extra since i haven't molested the head yet i'll be happy. my question mainly pertains to oiling. i have a friend in one ear saying get a jun ($800) oil pump, and then get some oil restrictors so "the oil won't be pumped out of the sump faster than it can drain back down from the head" he by the way has 3 grand invested in his dry sump kit with a goal of 800-1000rwhp. but for my hp goals i think that's overkill. in the other ear i have a friend saying "our race car makes 570rwhp on the oil pump that came with the motor, when we built the bottom end we didn't even buy a new oe one, we would have liked to but it didn't happen that way. you'll be fine with just getting yourself a new oe one, not even an N1. we also have a friend making 780 rwhp on his daily rb25 that's twin turbo with methonal running stock bottom end, hg and studs, with stock oil pump." i don't want to build my motor twice. but at the same time i don't need to overkill my oiling either. in your "been there done that" opinions. you think i'll have any problems going with just a brand new oe nissan oil pump? nissan oil pumps aren't really notorious for taking shits so.....your 2 cents is appreciated. thx again Dave =]