Z U L8R

i'm inclined to say arp studs + oem HG > oem head bolts + metal HG

i don't know how this came up in the conversations but i was surprised to hear what oil some of my friends are running in their motors that have been through a couple years of abuse and still they're not having any problems. i know rb20's call for 7.5w-30 i forget what 25's are but i was inclined to run 10w-30 in mine. one friend said "i don't trust lightweight oils in my 25 (r32 projected 800hp) i'll run 20w-50 or 15w-50" another friend (350rwhp sr20) "i use deisal oil" his car's been on the road for almost 2 years still no problems i'm gonna probably use the gt30/71r and tial 38mm off my newly acquired project, i've redone my intercooler piping (but will need to again for the 90mm Thr body), aquired an old school profec b, and will have my greddy intake mani on by monday if it comes this week. i'll be more than happy with a RELIABLE 350rwhp, but i'd like to know what oil weight/brand some of you guys are running, and what recommendations would be best for the longevity of my 25. thank you =] -David-

not like this pertains to these particular motors, but when my brother had his fd (93 rx7) he heard a pop noise while on the highway and after that it had a rattle to it at idle. so when he got the car home i could hear the rattle and it sounded like it was coming from where the turbos bolts up to the housing. so i'm thinking maybe one of his turbo's took a ♥♥♥♥. so after about 20 minutes he says "oh yeah my vacuum/boost guage is bouncy at idle", so i immediately shut the hood and said "you chipped an apex seal let's go eat dinner" so it also helps you diagnose engine problems/vacuum leaks.

i'll take some pics of the underside. since my 280 used to have an rb20, i used my rb20 tranny and kept my 25 tranny incase i ever go 26 on my 71 widebody 240z, i did that also because i could use the stock z driveshaft (just the collar cut off the yoke), use the stock cable driven speedometer, and actually i used the stock tranny mount, i just cut the middle section and moved it back an inch and a quarter, then welded it back to the rest of the mount and added a little extra steel for strength. my friend at the machine shop made me the motor mounts by modifying the l28's metal mounts. my friend who ran the 25 tranny in his 240z had a custom mount made for his, it kind of looks like a cradle. ps. i really want to toss that xs power t3/t4 and steal the gt30/71r off my 1g awd eclipse

i'm waiting on the tow truck driver that messed up my hood to compensate me so i can get a better boost controller, redo my intercooler piping/couplers, and pay for my dyno time.

they sent my silicon intercooler couplers to the wrong address!! *casts a jihad on ups lol

basically if your car has ac in it, you don't have to disconnect any of the lines, or even remove the compressor to take out your engine and put in another. you may have to pull it to the side to do so but not disconnect it. now the issue lies in, "on my motor the compressor was at the bottom on the driver's side but on the motor that i just put in my car the compressor's supposed to be on the top on the passenger side" so in this hypothetical situation the solution would probably be some fabrication on the high pressure and low pressure hoses that go to the compressor, then making brackets that will bolt your compressor to your new motor, then figuring what belt placement/size/length or pulley you'll need for the crankshaft to turn your compressor, then once you've gotten that figured out, the wiring, then evac and recharge your ac and if it was workin before it should work now. as far as your heat, once you change your heater core so you won't have a leak anymore, it's just a matter of running the two heater hoses from your new motor to the firewall and to your heater core and voila you have heat. having heat and having ac are 2 separate systems, you can have one without the other. hope that helped, and good luck

oh i c what you're saying. RB front bellhousing with Z32 rear, and mixmatching the guts the z32 starter is goofy lookin like a hexagon that bolts to the side of the z32 front bellhousing where as the rb's has an ear at the top and an ear at the bottom which the bolts go through the block then back towards the rear of the car and through the rb's front housing then into the starter and thread in. that's why you'll have to use the rb's starter, but there's only 2 wires going to it, the thick one that goes to the battery and the small blade connector that gets the start signal. the only problem you might run into is clearances, but that's why they make dead blow hammers and welders LOL.

i'm running a custom intake on my 25, all the maker left me was enough metal to tap 4 pipe threads w/ fittings for my fpr, brake booster, pcv valve, then i T'd my bov, boost controller, and boost guage off the last one (which i'll disperse to the brake booster's and pcv's when i get time instead of running them all to just 1 source) but all i did was screw the throttle body open a little more so i would get SOME air in the plenum, i have it idling at 1100-1200 cold, and when it warms up it goes to about 900-1000, i have no aac, no ficd, no iac, no bung at all supplying already metered air BEFORE the throttle body with exception to the one bung on the turbo's compressor housing which goes to my boost controller and then to the wastegate. so far the only problem it's had is the typical "my car doesn't like an atmospheric bov" where you have to feather the gas a little after you boost hard and try to go into neutral to keep it from dying. i don't think you'll have a problem unless you're running a manifold with individual throttle bodies, then you just need to open all 6 just a little LOL what puzzled me at first was, "why is my idle dropping when it warms up because i have no idle air control valve" LOL , guess it's a/f ratio from cold engine to operating temperature engine heh.

just a question, if the alternator is fine until the electric fan comes on, if you remove the fan from the equation all together is everything else perfect? if so, instead of jumping a wire from the alternator charging stud to the Z's fuseblock then jumping it to your battery then battery to starter etc etc etc. what if you wire the fan in differently? if the problem exists whether the fan is in the car or not then this is a moot point, and your alternator just may have a bad internal regulator, could you borrow someone elses alternator?

i'm pretty sure the clutch kit should work, the starters definately are not the same, you might want to see if you can use the z32 flywheel once you get it apart just in case the spacing is different between the flywheel and the starter gear, shimming would be almost impossible. the driveshaft is the big nissan yoke as is the 25 tranny, depending on how you convert it you may or may not have to lengthen/shorten the overall length of it. if your z32 won't bolt up to the 25's block i would (in your shoes) probably just use the 25's tranny, look into swapping the speed sensors, then cross the bridge of a custom transmount/driveshaft fabrication if it presents the need. i'm not sure 100% sure about the n/a vs TT trannies being different gearing, but i wanna say i believe they are, as far as the rear ends go, the TT came with a tall ~3.6 viscous lsd, where as the n/a's should be a 4.11 viscous lsd, which'll be good great for getting out of the hole. all in all it shouldn't be too hard of a swap. you got a great deal on the whole clip. keep us posted & good luck, i love 25's

all the skyline rb's are front sump, the 200zr z31 red top rb20det with the top mount intercooler is the only rear sump. and you do need a front sump for a 240sx. you need custom motor mounts that move the motor forward a little but you didn't need to waste your money on a new sump unless yours had a hole in it and then you might wanna worry because #1 rb25 tranny's go for about $900, and 2. rb26 cheapest i've seen in a long time is $3100, so if you paid $3500 for everything....it just seems too good to be true. i HOPE you got a good motor, good luck to you.

try the 3330's bcpr7es gapped at .028 ~$10, if that doesn't fix it you're probably going to need coil packs, i would then convert it to the wasted spark system with spark plug wires =] it's cheaper and looks sexy too

my 280z has a thick white/blue and a small white/red wire off the Z harness, i cut the plug off and wired it to my rb25's alternator which had a thick white/red and a thin blue wire on the rb's alt plug. i first wired up thick to thick and thin to thin and it wasn't charging correctly. so i put the thick white/red (Z) to the thin white/red (rb plug) and connected the other and it charged perfectly 14.2 v. i wired in my fan directly to the battery with an inline 30 amp fuse, and the thermostatic fan relay in between the ground, i grounded the relay and when the relay gets to the temp it needs it completes the circuit, when my fan cuts on it drops .2 volts but other than that no problems

your fuel pressure is a little high but all in all it's fine. put it at spec and let's move to ignition. what exactly is your boosting problem? is it smooth if you slowly boost to 12, but hesitate,sputter, or jerk when you mash it to 12. does it act up at 3-4k rpm? describe your test drive. what spark plugs are you running? what motor are you running? does your car warm up to operating temperature (aka does it have a thermostat)? have you ever replaced your coolant temp sensor? i'm willing to bet, unless your coil packs are starting to ark thus causing your ignition to break up at higher rpm, if you get some ngk bcpr7es (part #3330) and gap them to .028 it'll fix your problem. one other thing, how's your intercooler piping? is it sound. check all the clamps and make sure they're tight, make sure there's no dry rotting or cracks in the silicon, to make sure the more boost did not create a boost leak. 12psi is not a lot at all

all great, safe advice thus far, my question is do you have the oe boost sensor on your motor cause i always take that off. and if it is not on the motor, how's the ECU going to determine ANY boost, let alone too much, and or cut fuel. i don't think your problem is the ecu cutting fuel. i think you have a pretty simple problem, either with the fpr you're using, like it's not set right and/or just bad = easy test, try the stock fpr. or your problems not fuel it's ignition. possibly you're having coil pack issues, etc etc, the other thing is if you turn the boost up are you running 6's or 7 heat range plugs? i think with a little more information and testing on your part we can get to the bottom of your issue.

have you disconnected the battery since your bigger injectors and turbo. your ecu may need to relearn.

s14 sr20, a gt 28/71 with the big exhaust housing, metal head gasket, arp studs, NAME BRAND ( i wanted to stress that) rocker arm stoppers, decent sized fmic, 550's should do it but you may wanna go just a hair bigger, walbro 255, z32 maf, and 3" exhaust should put you right at 400hp at about 19-20 psi. with the 550's you'll be able to run an apexi safc2 which isn't that expensive but if you go a little bigger you're gonna have to run different engine management and or just get your ecu tuned. talk with your tuner about whether or not you should disable the variable valve timing or not. for 400hp i'd probably just go with an s13 sr20 so the vvt wouldn't even be an issue and the motor's a little cheaper....plus you could probably even wire it yourself. the s14's wiring are a pain in the ass to find diagrams for fyi

another possibility if you didn't do it before you turned the boost up, is you might need to run a little bit smaller spark plug gap. it may be just blowing spark. i didn't have a problem running 14psi with a .028 gap. ngk 3330's bcpr7es come pregapped at .030 fyi (i have no idea what plugs u have in there other than seeing "rb280z")

thanks, i haven't had another second to spend on that 200zr rb20 so i've made no progress on it yet. i'm looking for a 200zr dash plug pinout so i can power up everything that needs it just so the car will run, once it runs i'm done with that car.

you could be right, i honestly didn't try to start the car to see if the injectors were getting power before i powered the injector harness plug. if they already were getting power then great, if they weren't..they are now LOL

, basically i followed chris's lead, everything started smoothing out once i was working on it at the same time i was reading what he was saying, but my friend's 8 pin skyline plug where you spade connect the grey wire that ends up feeding the injectors 12v wasn't in that plug, instead of a typical 7 it only had six, so i traced the schematics and tapped it in to the funky shapped big grey plug that actually plugs into the injectors' harness, and powered it to the now thick grey wire right there and had no problems. he ended up having a bad coil pack on cyl 1 so i also wired in an ignitor from a z32 and wired in the wasted spark set up buick grand national coil with msd 8.5mm spark plug wires. it's sexy . he still has his series 2 coil packs in which 5 are good so if you run into a misfire when you're all done he'll probably sell you a replacement for a fair price. basically for now don't worry about the thick red wire, just follow chris's lead and power up the injectors and you should be fine. ya there should be a fake plug with no wires going to it on the tps and then a little short harness going off it to the 3 prong grey plug in which you'll get your 0-5v reference for throttle position.

ya i'm actually finishing up my rb25 280z right now, taking a break LOL. worst case i'll just power the red top's ecu then make sure the inj + ign system is getting power and if not go from there, i appreciate the reply, thx i'll figure it out no problem, but if i could save some time by voicing the request i figured what the heck LOL.

well so far, all i can find is u.s. z31's dash plug info, basically most of em go to the ecu so getting the pin/function solves that problem. only thing is since the "red top" rb20's came in jdm z31's...i'm hoping the wiring is the same.....in any case... there's only a few wires that need power and fortunately they're usually the same colors. so i should be able to figure it out. finding any wiring information on the red top rb20 is not gonna happen i guess so after i do all the r&d i just might save you guys some time....maybe LOL

I'm wiring in a z31 rb20det, it's the old old school rb20 with the top mount intercooler on top of the valve cover, it's got the z31 dash plug and i need to wire it into a 95 s14. i'm having trouble finding a pinout for the rb20's dash plug. any help is greatly appreciated, thanks again David