awd92gsx

If this helps...the FMIC is... 21.65" x 11.8" x 2.75" (courtesy of onlinecoversion.com) Very nice car! My Z doesn't have P/S, with the steering wheel it currently has on there and the size tires I'm running, I sure could use it!

Rotaries are excellent engines...they just have a problem of blowing apex seals under high boost, but once you upgrade the seals then they are pretty strong (look at all of the Rotary powered Celicas running down in PR). Tri-Rotor engines aren't cheap, though...

Warren, You might try checking at your local Home Depot and see if they carry ABS. I've built dozens of 3" MAF to Turbo intakes for 1G and 2G DSM's using simple ABS pieces. On a 14B 1G (92 Eagle Talon TSi) it gained 12whp (at the wheels). I bet there is something you could come up with. Just take the stock intake down or kind of imagine how it needs to look and just go browse down at your local hardware store. Although several people have used it successfully, I've never built one using PVC (white), so I can only recommend using ABS (black) as it has a much higher melting point than PVC

Well, again, there's always more than one way to skin a cat...but... In your case, you'll need to start off by buying the service manual for your year of car. That'll help you determine what is different and what needs to be modified. Make sure it has the electrical schematics in the manual you buy...

So...how do you get to the chat room anyway?

Hi Zdreamin' Always good to have another AZ'er on HybridZ.

Hmm...that's a pretty good idea...when are you setting up the jig and taking orders? I've wondered, though, is it possible to isolate the solid diff mounts with a layer of rubber? I'm about to buy one...not sure what's going to be worse, the constant banging of my diff hitting the underbody, or the diff noise...at least with the diff noise I don't have to worry about breaking too much other stuff...

This doesn't directly have to do with this thread...but...I found a video of a Mighty Max with 4G63 in it... http://dsetuning.streetkiaz.com/plebani.mpg

I have the MSA front and rear skirts. They look like newer style bumper covers. Unless you knew any better, you'd probably think there were bumpers behind there... Think about it, how many law enforcement officials are going to know enough about Z's to know that you had to remove the stock bumpers to put on the MSA kit? Chances are very very very few...and then the chances of him actually pulling you over for it are just as slim... If anything he'd probably pull you over to tell you how cool your car looks now... Just my $.02

I'd check it with a Mightyvac. pparaska - did you know that your factory guages are made by VDO? VDO is the prime supplier of guages to Mitsubishi.

Well, I've learned how you can drop a ZXT engine in without having to run the harness or turbo ECU if that will help. You can run the turbo setup on the non turbo engine, but I'd limit it to about 5psi on GOOD gas. ANY detonation and the stock pistons are as good as gone.

I've also heard/been told/believe that. Supposedly the turbo dish's have a lower ring land.

VATN's are mainly for driveability purposes, or maybe Rallying... if you're wanting all out power, stick with something bigger and cheaper.

Guycali, Actually, StarQuest owners have been swapping in the 4G63 into their StarQuests for quite some time. The transmissions they are using are modified Supra 5 spds, however, I believe a 6 speed could be used as well..but, I think I've been told they are quite a bit longer. The tranny from a 2.0L Dodge D50 or a 2.0L Mighty Max (both trucks) should also bolt right up and the Starion trannies can be modified...which, I am beginning to wonder if the Starion trannies have the same tranny bolt pattern as the truck and Montero Sport 4G64's...more on that below... I had quite a revelation today when I was doing a timing belt on a Montero Sport...it had a 2.4L...(there's not many around, but, they're out there)...and so I started thinking about some different trucks and cars that use the 4G64. The later Mighty Max's had a 2.4L also...AND, they were RWD... now, before I get too far ahead, I have to tell you that the transmission mounting pattern for the Montero and the Mighty Max 4G64's are a little different than the car 4G64's, however here's what I'm thinking... You can take the engine AND tranny from either a Mighty Max with a 4G64 (there's quite a few out there) or a Montero Sport with a 4G64 and transplant the block into a Z. This will save quite a bit of trouble...I measured the Montero Sports transmission and it looked like it was right about 29.5", which is right about 1.5" longer than the Z's tranny...however...that might not be a bad thing...The DOHC 4G63 head has the crank sensor on the backside of the head, so you may need that extra clearance... I was also looking at the intake manifold of the Montero Sport when I remembered one of the problems StarQuest guys run into...if you put the DOHC head on in a RWD car, you have to modify the intake manifold and mount the throttle body on the other side (I've seen it done alot, so I guess it's not all that hard)...I bet you could use a Montero Sport or trucks intake manifold on the 4G63 head (I've already stuck a 4G64 intake from a car on to a 4G63 head and it should work OK) and get around that little problem... Now, I'm 99% sure the 4G63 head will bolt right onto the truck block and I'm almost 100% positive the truck and Montero Sport trannie's are interchangeable... (the part number is different, but that may have to do with internal gearing) Sorry if I've lost you...I've started to ramble some... It would be pretty difficult to drop an AWD drivetrain into a Z...it *could* be done, but, there'd need to be a WHOLE LOT of fabbing done...it'd probably be easier and cheaper to drop a Skyline or a WRX's drivetrain in...but, I dunno...actually, the bain of AWD DSM's is the tranny, not the engine...the engine is great, the tranny's are always the weak spots. If you see a DSM break at the track it's probably not the engine, but the tranny instead...

Hmm...when I get a chance I'll have to send you some pics of my O-ring style fuel rail...I don't have any of it off of the car...but...may help to some extent...

There's certainly some truth to what you're saying, and nobody will doubt that 3 days at Bondurant (which is in my town) won't help knock serious time off of your laptimes... The main point to this entire thread was not about stuffing as much horsepower into a 2700lb car as you can, but rather, gaining horsepower while, at the same time, shedding a couple of hundred points by doing so. Unfortunately, to gain any real amounts of horsepower out of our inline 6's, we have to actually add weight (yes, I know, you can swap heads, pistons, etc...but...it's going to be very difficult to obtain turbocharged power levels from a NA engine) so it then becomes a question of "Would you rather have 250hp from a 2700lb car, 400hp from a 2800lb car, or 400hp from a 2500lb car?? (of course, these numbers will change depending on what model you're starting off with (240Z, 280Z, etc..)" And let's not forget the weight distribution factor. Like it was mention, having a lighter engine would give you a better F/R weight ratio. Even if you could coax 300+hp from a N/A, you're weight ratios aren't as good as if you put in a lightweight 4 cylinder. Ok, granted, perhaps the best engine for an all out drag car may not be a 4 cyl (although, it is hard to argue with RWD cars running 7 second quarters using 4 cylinders), perhaps in those cases a Skyline, 350SB, or a variety of other engines may be the best choice...but...I think a high torque lightweight high output 4 cylinder will give the daily driven 240 or 280Z a better chance of keeping up with those pesky small block spitfires... Of course, opinions will vary. However, if a 4cyl 4G63 was good enough for Archer Racing to win their class against V8's and the such for almost 10 years straight AND be good enough for HKS to develop for the 24hr Lemans, then I don't see why it wouldn't help in a Zcar...

I've emailed him, I just haven't heard back yet. One of the 2.4's just ran a 10.61@136mph shifting at only 7k rpm and bogging off the line without NOS in a '97 Talon TSi. (The one I was talking about earlier). I found out a friend of mine has a complete 2G engine with a spun bottom end he's going to sell (I didn't get how much, but I am supposed to go to his house today - he's a fellow Mitsubishi tech from another local dealership). I also have a 2.4L Galant block sitting at the house. If I can get the block cheap enough I'm going to pick it up and grab the 2.4L block from my work and start building the engine up...I'm having this funny feeling that my L28ET may not be in my car too awful long...we'll see...

I've heard there is a guy doing the 4G63 swap in a 240Z. The 4G63 would be very similiar to the SR20DET. I'll see if I can get a hold of him.

That's part of the beauty of the hybrid. The Mitsubishi SOHC 2.4L is probably one of the most plentiful engines on the planet. Mitsubishi put them in different vehicles across the world. The engine block (4G64) is completely compatible with everything made for a 4G63, so rods are easy to obtain, with pistons being the only difference (the 4G64 has a 1.5mm overbore compared to the 4G63. 86.5mm vs. 85mm) Since you are using a 4G63 cylinder head you can use any cams made for it. HKS makes cams for them, Crower, you name it. I've already bought my L28ET, but, part of me wishes I would have just done it with the hybrid motor instead. I just didn't think about it when I was researching which engine to drop into the Z. I got caught up more in what everybody else had done rather than what I could have tried...oh well, I'm sure my L28ET won't dissapoint and I can always start gathering the parts in the mean time. Oh yeah, I forgot one thing that needs to be added. You'll have to buy the two cam gears and the new timing belt. If you can find a DOHC 4G64 then you won't need to buy the 2nd engine or any of the extra pieces, with the exception of the turbo manifold, turbo, and turbo oil pan... Just pistons. Drop the pistons in the engine, drop the engine in the car with the addition of the

Hey, no problem. I'm glad I'm clean!! Always use protection. For the sake of others.

If you're testing the electronics off of the car, test them in the car at the ECU. Sometimes doing pin checks at the ECU will help you determine if you have a harness or connection problem. The only way you're going to put a significant amount of load on the engine at a rest is if you have an automatic and can powerbrake it (or if you have a studderbox, but I can't recommend a stutterbox for diagnosing this kind of problem)

I got to see an EVO VII when I went for Mitsubishi training in Cali once... The EVO VII's anti-lag is a little different than previous versions. They actually blow off back into the exhaust now...it's kinda cool... There's a company here in town that makes an anti lag kit, but I'll be a monkey's uncle if I can remember where it's at. I'll have to do some searching.

Well, if you look around, you can probably find the 2.4L block cheap cheap. I have found them for as little as $250 (they are very plentiful - about a gazillion Galants and N/T Eclipse Spyders out there). If you can find a crankwalked 2G engine for around $600 (I've seen them for less even) that has all of the stuff on it, then you have about everything you need...except the pistons...which will run you about $550 with rings. I've heard the Toyota trannies can be found pretty cheap, around $150 or so...and the bell housing costed around $300 I think. After that you just have to decide if you want to run a standalone or find an ECU and harness for an Eclipse and run it.

Damn. This is a cool program. Thanks!! I need to verify what head gasket I have for sure (going to take it and measure it), but I will either have an 8.1:1 or an 8.8:1 comp. ratio...both of which would work fine for turbo duty...or I could run the standard HG I have sitting here and that will bring it right to 8.6:1 cool program indeed...

Well, when the previous owner had it he must have encountered ALOT of detonation. There is detonation damage across 4 of the 6 pistons (pretty much unusable). I've talked to a few people that are running pretty quick times (into the 11's) with stock pistons, but I was kinda wanting something with a little more low end grunt than stock pistons, which is why I was wondering about the NISMO flat tops that Courtesy Nissan sells... http://www.courtesyparts.com/cgi-bin/miva?onlinestore/merchant.mv+Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=CP&Category_Code=s30_nismo_piston From what I've been reading, flat top pistons with a P90A head would result in an 8.5:1 compression ratio, which would be perfect for turbo apps. I eventually will/may end up going with a newer/more modern engine, so I don't know if I want to spend any more than I have to in the L28ET until I decide which route I want to go... However, I'd kinda like to get the engine running as soon as possible...I still have a few other things to buy, also...such as I/C piping, intercooler (I just scored a SMIC from a DSM for free, so it will have to work for temporary duty - which means I'm going to be limiting my boost levels to about 12psi anyway). With the stuff left to buy and the fact that I still need to buy, or redo, my interior (to black) I find myself needing to go this route as cheaply, but effectively, as possible.