rsicard

That speaks VOLUMES about the quality of the supplier. Fit checks should be done in the prototype stage of development.

Agree with NewZed. Voltage readings are normal without the alternator running. Sounds like a fuel line blockage. Bottom of tank, one of the filters etc. Disconnect and check flow of lines to front with compressed air nozzle. Test filters for restriction.

If the button flywheel bolts are already torqued down, MAYBE those are the wrong diameter shank bolts for the button flywheel. The bolts must have a step down shank dimensions for mounting both the flexplate and the Button Flywheel. Best to get QuarterMaster on the phone and ask about the 13 thousands play and if you have the proper bolts for the button flywheel. Just some suggestions. Best of luck to you.

Went with a Speedhut 3 5/8" quad gauge. Oil Press, Water temp, Voltmeter, Fuel Level. Programmable Fuel level. Double Pole Double Throw switch for either Fuel or Oil Pressure on Pressure portion of gauge. Several temp sensors, selectable through rotary switch for display on temp portion of gauge. Also installing Speedhut 3 5/8" Speedo. Both Indicators fit within the original buckets from which the mechanical speedo and elec tach came from. Three empty center panel openings. One for Air Fuel Mixture, one for Vacuum Gauge and other for tachometer? Would like Analog LED + digital number display tach which as INSTANTANEOUS (zero lag) analog display of RPM.

I injector per cylinder is NOT throttle body injection yet is port injection. The throttle body is an air valve. Throttle body injection has the injectors AT the throttle body. Gen 5 GM small block has fuel injection directly into the cylinder, like diesel injection.

Throttle body EFI causes some cylinders to run rich and some to run lean. Just the nature of this level of EFI technology.

After market ECMs are getting more sophisticated. The basics of EFI remain the same. The latest development is the self tuning capability. This requires MORE intelligent embedded software code in the ECU to self modify the fuel injection output parameters based on inputs to the EFI. I have invested in GM PCMs and gotten to the point of TOO much money to invest to reap TOO little benefit. Finally went with Electromotive EFI ECU and have not looked back since. They appear to have the tech bedrock from which all other modern EFI systems have developed. Lots of intellectual property stealing going on among manufacturers. The cheaper self tuning system all appear to be THROTTLE body EFI, not port injected EFI, which is a technological step BACKWARDS but better than carbs.

Caution, ordered kit from Jegs and got ERW tubing! Purchased DOM stock and had it bent same as Jegs main hoop.

Priming the oil pump will NOT reveal the problem. The positive way to go about it is doing a cylinder by cylinder leak-down test. The tool to do this with has two air pressure gauges. One for line pressure and the other for cylinder holding pressure. Once a cylinder is pressurized at top dead center, for that cylinder, note the reading on the cylinder hold pressure gauge. The instruction sheet that comes with the tool has a chart of how much leakage per cylinder pressure read. Open the valve cover cap and get near it with your ear when the cylinder is pressurized. If you hear an air leak, then it is the piston rings for that cylinder. Also listen at the exhaust and carb intake for air pressure leaks. It will tell you whether there are valves leaking. There are quite a number of variables when an engine is being rebuilt. The more experienced the re-builder is, the better the outcome. Don't be afraid to disclose facts about the rebuild and there are many of them.

Sounds like there is too much piston ring blow-by. The more RPM, the more crankcase pressure build-up. What is the mileage on the engine? Was it from a carb or EFI induction system? EFI always runs a lot cleaner on the cylinders. Carbs tend to wash down the oil on the cylinders and accelerate piston ring wear. Sounds like at the least it needs a rering job. More likely, bore and hone the cylinders with replaced pistons and rings. This should drastically reduce piston ring blow-by.

Keith: Now that your cage is in, and very nicely done, where will the drivers harness attach points be? Please post photos of the bottom of the main hoop welded attachments. Trying to get ideas as I have received a main hoop etc. for 4 point cage and will use the same Kirkey seats. Not trying to be annoying yet "....don't need all the relaxing of the harness bar..." and "...diff bard..." just don't understand the thinking contained here. Also, what is the purpose of the down bars going to the tunnel. Just wondering.

You will want to watch for RUST in the floor pans especially and other areas inside the vehicle. You won't need one with a Small Block Chev (SBC) as you can install one of those yourself. There are many aspects to be covered in a Datsun with a SBC, drivetrain, suspension etc.

Keith: What series of Kirkey seats did you receive? I have to do the VERY same as I want to road race my 240Z also. I am very interested in your installation of these seats especially the adjustable rails. Please advise. Thanks.

Thanks very much for the part numbers. Want to install the 204-1017 on my 240Z. What needs to be underneath the 1017 to the top of the coil spring? Right now have the original doughnut on top of the Koni Racing Shocks inside shortened struts with adjustable coilovers. Really would appreciate your experience in this subject.

Sounds like the pivot ball for the pressure plate disengage lever broke off. Seems all it needs is a replacement pivot ball/shaft. No need to get rid of the fidanza flywheel. The centerforce clutch should also work with the replaced pivot ball/shaft. Just need to remove the transmission from the bell-housing, then bolt it up to the block with the clutch and pressure plate installed, install the disengage arm, adjusting the pivot ball/shaft, for a very small amount of free play between the throw-out bearing and disengage arm. I will be installing this same setup with a Gen 1 engine with a 1 piece rear main bearing. Already have the external hydraulic slave cylinder from McCleod. Going to order a Quicktime 9023 scatter-shield bell-housing and check it for dimensions against the GM cast aluminum bell-housing.

Jon: Thanks VERY MUCH for your comments. It's really nice to have a discussion on this level. Agree with you totally on the STBs with the same thoughts. In reading your comment, the longitudinal tube you installed from the diagonal in the main hoop must have been elevated such that it intersected the firewall near the top of same and onto the strut towers via a "V". This is a much more DIRECT approach to increasing the "Y" axis torsional rigidity especially the front struts towers and structure. I used an indirect method by having the tube just above the floor hump then extending upward the inside of the firewall with steel and then downward and outward on the front of the firewall to the framerails. I have also purchased the Chassis Engineering book by Herb Adams and read it thoroughly. I want to keep the original Datsun 240Z dash. That is why I may place the longitudinal tube just above the hump. Also want to beef up the forward frame rails by adding rectangular tube to the bottom of the existing frame rails forward of the front towers and far enough to the rear to gain rigidity in the "X" axis of the vehicle.

Chris: Have given a great amount of thought about torsional stiffness to my 240Z. After mounting a good Roll Cage to the rear of the vehicle, use that portion to transfer torsional stiffness to the front of the vehicle. Weld in a thick wall round tube laterally above the floor hump between the main hoop uprights. Then add another thick wall round tube between the seats from the lateral hump tube forward to a thick plate on the rear of the firewall that extends upward. Then add another such thick plate on the forward side of the firewall in the same position as the one on the rear of the firewall. Then weld a thick wall short round tube to the top of the plate on the forward side of the firewall. Then fab some substantial rectangular tube angling down to the integral frame rails. Weld these rectangular tubes to the short tube and to the frame rails. This would transfer some of the rear torsional stiffness to the front end. Also fab and add rectangular tube to the bottom of the frame rail from about the firewall forward to where the front suspension is located to increase the vertical depth of the frame rail in that area.

Not certain why there is ANY pre-load needed on Ball Bearings. If there is, then that would induce excessive wear and heat on both inner and outer races of both bearings. If there is axial play of the stub axle, then add shims to one end of the inner spacer until the axial play is 0 to .001" such that there is still NO axial pre-load on either bearing. The FSM says 0 to .0059" axial play which in other words says NO pre-load countering their pre-load specs on the same image.

John: More to the story. It appears my 240Z was in an accident where the right front was damaged. It now appears to lean to the right a small amount. Is there a way to correct for this?

John: What is the method to use to check for any chassis twisting knowing the amount of experience you have with these cars?

I did not say the floor pans were RUSTY. They are NOT. The 240Z is the lightest in weight of the Zs. The Bad Dogs will keep the floor pans from oil canning and the floors are stronger. I know it is a UNIBODY. The floors are NOT a significant structural components of the chassis. It is not bad advice. It is good advice

Get some Clecos, 10-32 screws and self locking nut and fender washers. Drill every six inches along either side of the new frame rails and bolt them together with the floor. My 240Z has floor metal SO THIN it just made sense to do it this way. Lot cheaper than welding.

Keith: What is the part number of the spanner wrench from McMaster that JohnC recommended. Also have Koni Racing Shocks and need tool.

Very Nice 4 trap doors. Curious to know with the trap doors, if the accusump will be activated in hard corners. If you can remember, please let us know. I have a SBC oil pan with kick-outs and trap doors and want to know if an oil accumulator will be needed for hard cornering in road racing.

You can purchase a Fidanza 198541 aluminum flywheel from Jegs for $369.99 and may need balance plate Fidanza 624001 for $19.99 from Jegs also, if the engine is externally balanced. Look at the rear of the flexplate to see if there is a counterweight attached to it. If so then you will likely need the balance plate. These are low prices. Also purchase a ball or roller bearing to be pressed into the rear of the crankshaft to accommodate the pilot shaft of the T56 or manual transmission. The T-56 LT-1 bell housing is an aluminum casting and will bolt up to your engine. Or if you want to be safer, purchase a Quicktime scatter shield bellhousing part number 9023 such that if the clutch or flywheel explodes and leaves the crankshaft, it won,t saw off your feet and will be contained by the Quicktime STEEL scattershield / bellhousing.