rsicard

What is a Lincoln locker???

It was already suggested to simulate ram air flow. It would have to be tested at the track or in a wind tunnel. How much more positive is airflow at the base of the windshield versus that which is taken at the front grille opening? Has this been instrumented to see what the difference is? NASCAR sprint cup cars use the air intake at the base of the windshield. Has NASCAR mandated that intake air CANNOT be had at the front of the car? More questions than answers. Put an absolute pressure sensor in the two locations and instrument log the differences at speed down a 10K foot runway for comparison. See which location has more relative pressure readings. Aircraft put the pitot tube out in the airstream, NOT at the base of the windshield.

Yes, it is REALLY hard to believe that a dual 4 inch plenum with smooth tubes feeding it does NOT have more volume than open throttle body with no hat at all at speed. At low vehicle speed a small fraction of loss of horsepower/TQ is not that serious. When at speed with RAM air effect into the dual plenum, should yield more volume past the throttle body than the vehicle sitting still and no hat on the throttle body. The vehicle aero resistance at speed becomes the primary factor retarding acceleration.

The JTR engine and transmission mounts were used. With the headers and down pipes, they have to clear the oil filter and starter on the other side. Used 2 1/2 inch down pipes. Headers are stainless steel yet 1 5/8 inch primary tube diameter. I will likely use these for now but want to go to 3 inch down pipes and larger header primary pipes.

Go to Spec Clutch. They have both steel and aluminum flywheels for this conversion. Use a Quicktime 9023 bell-housing as it will be extremely safe as it will serve as a scatter-shield. Use a Spec clutch and pressure plate.

Funnel, larger than duct size, the Ram Air from in front of the radiator support into two four inch ducts that end up in the throat of the throttle body. There will be positive pressure at speed funneled into the two four inch ducts. Use the rigid 4 inch ducts and elbows as they are less restrictive to flow than the flexible ducts. Much thought given to this design. No protrusions through the hood that increase overall drag negating the increase in power. Going through the hood is more complicated.

How about this solution, use a dual/elbow plenum made by Spectre and 4 inch tubes on either side up through the radiator support 4 inch hole to a funnel that attaches to the 4 inch air intake tube. Spectre makes a 4 inch inline filter that can fit in series with the intake tubes going to the dual/elbow plenum on top of the throttle body. In order to test this configuration, two LARGE squirrel cage blowers would need to be placed in front of each air intake funnel on each side of the front grille to simulate the car at air/speed on the track. Yes there will be loss of intake air at lower speeds, and more intake air at higher vehicle speeds and more horsepower/torque. Those are the trade-offs.

The dyno testing revealed that even the 4 inch plenum elbow STILL provided restriction? What are the possible options other than NOTHING on top of the throttle body? I have that 4 inch spectre elbow on my 383 stroker and your testing on the dyno has provided some insight into the air restriction. This is going to be a somewhat complicated situation to resolve. What did that fellow doing the testing suggest for air intake? Cut a hole in the hood, put a forward facing scoop over the large hole in the hood and a large circular air filter on top of the throttle body joined to the hole in the hood? Or a large plenum from the throttle body up through the hole in the hood and then what?? Please advise. Thanks.

I have a T56 transmission and it would be the last item to have concern about clearance to the ground. First comes the exhaust down tubes from the headers. Second comes the Oil Pan. Third MAY be the transmission bell-housing. Next would be the front cross[member.

I have a similar combination except the oil pan is a dual kick-out type. The bottom of the oil pan is a small amount below the front cross-member. It is a 7" deep racing pan. Suggest you take a measurement from the bottom of the block to the bottom of the oil pan. Should not be much more than 7 inches.

Also check Spec Clutch for a flywheel. I have a one-piece rear seal Gen 1 roller cam block and have purchased a fidanza aluminum flywheel with steel insert for clutch face. I purchased a Centerforce dual friction clutch and pressure plate. Now texis30O says they go to trash easily. I am going to purchase a Spec Stage 2 or greater clutch and pressure plate as I have a VERY high performance 383 stroker. Spec Clutch also sells flywheels.

Also would like to know if you have a front air dam and or splitter. If yes, then does the front end get light and squirrely at 140MPH? Does the front end stay planted at 140MPH? How is the 8.8 diff holding up?

Mike: Who did you get your latest oil pan from and what is the part number of the pan? Wrote a post to rayaapp2 regarding his Hooker Headers with questions about steering shaft clearance. Please advise. Thanks.

rayaapp2: Do those headers fit a JTR engine mounts SBC installation and MISS the steering shaft on the drivers side? What is the hooker part number for those headers?? If I can use those headers, then I will change my Oil Pan to one without kick-outs to accommodate the hooker headers. Your engine installation that pre-dates the JTR installation must have the engine further forward of the JTR installation and therefore less clearance between the number 1 exhaust header primary pipe and the steering shaft. Need your response on this matter. Please advise. Thanks.

SUNNYS: Look at http://betamotorsports.com/products/products.php?cat=7 for Professionally built by Kirk Racing Roll Cages. Tires need to be ROUND without flat spots and have the same amount of material all the way around. The rim or wheel also needs to be checked, less the tire, with a dial gauge when mounted on the vehicle to make certain it is completely ROUND. Wheel hop due to differential wrap up, differential twisting against rotation under load, could also be a possibility.

The Video is really good and enjoyed it. Concerned about the tire shake as there might be some rear end wrap up or maybe just the MT ET Drag tires. A pre-constructed Roll Cage is $800 just for the materials. Should not cost $2000.00 or perhaps anywhere near it. Keep up the good fun.

Mike: Looked at your Facebook page. Noticed flaired exhaust ducts on lower front fenders. Are these to vent higher pressure in the front wheel wells or are they for something else? I intended to do something similar by ducting the engine compartment via an electric blower to the outside or to the wheel well. If it is a higher pressure area then the latter is NOT a good idea. Please advise. Thanks.

When you rewire the z's, do you use a prefabbed harness or fab your own? Who do you use as sources for materials such as wire, relays, connectors etc etc. It is really interesting to see an interest in rewiring the Datsun Zs. I am using an EZwiring 20 mini fuse panel and harness. I am up to 11+ relays and still designing.

Really enjoy your posts. Your experience with brakes on the track is leading me to electric blower forcing air on the disk brakes. Also looking for squirrel cage blowers that can force-ably extract heat from the engine compartment. What is the secret wrench used to torque the gland nuts on the struts? Please advise. Thanks.

There is something wrong with that attached thumbnail. It appears to be a scarab type installation wherein the rear of the engine is 8 inches from the firewall. The JTR installation puts the engine further back such that installation or removal of the distributor becomes questionable.

NASCAR Sprint series runs horizontal splitters from 1" to scraping on the surface for maximum down force.

Miles is nearly at the appropriate method by using electric fans to remove heat from the engine compartment by creating a low pressure area by use of fans. I have looked at a lot of posts regarding adding vents to get rid of the engine heat. The vents will only be effective if they are placed in a tested and verified LOW pressure area. The effective way of creating a low pressure area is by installing an electric fan. Let's see what kind of comments this post creates.

.5 mm = .020" which is OK for the second and first rings. Don't need an oversized set of rings. Set ring end gap of both the top and second rings to .5mm i.e. .020" as long as the top ring has enough gap so that the two ends of the rings do not butt up to one another at maximum combustion chamber heat. As a rule of thumb, the top ring that gets the most heat should have the LARGEST gap. Then slightly less for the second ring.

It is much better to have a larger gap on the top ring than the spec calls for. The top ring gets the most amount of heat from the combustion chamber. Less so for the second ring as it can be a tighter gap. If the top ring butts together when at optimum temperature, that will likely damage the piston ring lands. Ring gap Top .23 to .38mm equals .009" to .014 which is a little to tight. Set is at .016" to .018" to give it leaway to expand and NOT butt the ends together. Second .15 to .30mm equals .006" to .012" which at .012" is at the minimum or give it slightly more. Oil .15 to .30mm equals ..006" to .012" which is likely OK

It is IMPORTANT to get very specific when trying headlights and turn signal lights in order to troubleshoot what may be wrong with the electrical system. When you turn on the flashers, do both of the front and rear turn signals flash? Check all that flash and report each and every one that flashes. Turn the flashers off and try left and right signal lights and tell us just exactly which ones flash. More than likely you have a BAD turn signal switch in the left hand position. Go to classicz Internet site and get ahold of the fellow in Washington State who repairs those switches and has a Mod that installs relays and harness for same to preserve the turn signal switches AFTER having them repaired. As for the power feed to the internal fuse panel, there is a heavy gauge wire likely from a fuseable link to the fuse panel. The other wires to the starter are the real heavy cable positive from the battery to the heavy post on the solenoid of the starter. This post will have another wire on it to a fuseable link wire and then likely to a heavier gauge white wire to the internal fuse panel. The other lighter gauge wire for the starter is the momentary starter engage +12 volt wire from the ignition switch. The fuseable link can be eliminated and a 4 place heavy fuse panel mounted near the starter. Then a 100+ ampere heavy fuse can be used on the 4 place fuse panel for the alternator heavy gauge cable which charges up the battery. The common terminal of the 4 place heavy fuse panel jumpers to the heavy gauge cable post on the starter. The heavy cable from the alternator then goes to the 100+ fuse in the fuse panel. Then use another 40 or 60 ampere fuse in the same panel to feed the white wire going to the internal fuse panel. The fuseable link can be done away with as the 40 or 60 amp fuse serves the same purpose. The only other wire the alternator needs is the excitation wire supplying power to the alternator such that it in turn can generate much more power to charge the battery. Let us know what other questions that you may have.